24 pin connector has slight melting

[Thelolster32]

Before I found this flaw in my system, my computer has strange behaviour. Like crashing with no BSOD, monitor losing signal, and random restart. Then today I was installing a videocard when I removed my 24 pin connector to cable manage it when I saw the melted part of the 24 pin.

Here are the specs:
A8-7600
MSI A78M-E35
2x4gb HyperX Blue DDR3 1866Mhz
AMD RX 550
Generic 700W (can only "handle" 550 watts said on the psu label) PSU
Generic Casing that came with the PSU

Here are some pics of the 24 pin:

 

 

 

 

Should I be worried about this because I'm still using the computer with that same psu still.

[Skiiwee29]

yes be worried.. DO NOT use that PSU.. buy a new one RIGHT AWAY!

[seon123]

Can you post a picture of the label on the PSU?

[Murasaki]

Get rid of that atomic bomb please. Might harm your components sooner or later.

[PineyCreek]

The PSU is crap.  Or, if you have a 24 pin cable extension for some reason, get rid of it.  Either way, you should replace that PSU.  If you don't replace it, your system will likely be toast in the near future.  It's dangerous.

[AskTJ]

Generic PSU's are very cheap and unreliable. Replace it ASAP with a tier 1-4 PSU on the PSU tier list. You don't want that PSU around your parts.

[Thelolster32]

1 hour ago, seon123 said:

Can you post a picture of the label on the PSU?

[Thelolster32]

I'm still using the pc with the same psu for a while in posting this reply

[damsdanerd]

hi, same problem when i started to mine with 2 gpu. there is a bunch of cause for this. it appears on 12 volt cables from the 24 pin, at first i bought an extension cable, cut the two melted cables and rely them with electric dominos (i have no photos of my work sadly), but the same problem occurs on my extension cable's pins and during 3 months it was a bad adventure where i had to cut cables and change domino's again and again, then 12 volts pins finally melt again... the last saving we did with my brother in law is to put new electric cables (the classic one's for domestic use).some welding later, the +12v isn't lowering for now but i know it will in a near future because my  corsair 750w 80+ copper isnt good enough for 24/7 crossfire use in game + mining. So as a good advice you have to buy some gold or platinum psu which is thought for that kind of use. Here are some pictures of the scrapyard war's inspired welding. thanks to techtip's team to inspired me for this.

[SpaceGhostC2C]

There are two reasons why this can happen:

1. Wire gauge is not thick enough for the current your PC draws from the affected line. I haven't checked the pin-out, but by doing so you can tell which voltage corresponds to the affected wires. When the wire is "underwhelming" for the current going through it, it will get warmer, and warm enough metal will melt the plastic it's attached to.
2. Arcing. Even with good enough cables, if the contact between the motherboard socket and the 24-pin connector is very loose, leading to a tiny gap between the two metal pieces, you can get arcing between them, which again lead to excessive heat in the area, and thus plastic melting.

You can try to discern between the two by examining the connectors in search of odd pins (like excessively recessed or open cylinders), but I don't think there's a fail-proof and simple method to do it. More importantly, it doesn't matter that much which of the two it is: wither way, that motherboard+PSU combination is a bad one to use and an accident waiting to happen (and I'm inclined to blame it all on the PSU).

[damsdanerd]

to answer at peoples who says it will fry the components:

i don't think it will but if the melting continues it will block the electric stream and melt on the motherboard pins which is not good but not so bad (you can clean it with copper brush) then you couldn't boot because of it.
but if you change the psu or try to clean the melted part you can use it for months as i am (no money to buy a new one for now),

you just need to know what you do and what you want.

in my case when we opened the psu everything was correct in it the only problem are cables that doesnt support the stress from 2 gpus known to be bad designed on 12 volt input from motherboard (search for rx480: the plot is this gpu is bad designed with only a 6 pins 12 volt cable instead of an 8 pins, so it is very demanding on the motherboard's 12 volts pins so with a second card plugged in it happened to melt the 12v pins.

the better solution in every case is to buy a good 80+ gold psu with a great warranty to avoid every bad variables with electrics but i want to say i'm very dissapointed it occurs with a brand as corsair and with a 750 watt copper psu which is sufficient in theory for my rig(2 150 watts gpu+ 65 watts cpu + ssd+ hard drive+ 5 fans= 550 watts which is near from 80 percent of 750 but it is in the limits of this psu and in the "best of the world" it has to work without melting).

[Thelolster32]

55 minutes ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

There are two reasons why this can happen:

1. Wire gauge is not thick enough for the current your PC draws from the affected line. I haven't checked the pin-out, but by doing so you can tell which voltage corresponds to the affected wires. When the wire is "underwhelming" for the current going through it, it will get warmer, and warm enough metal will melt the plastic it's attached to.
2. Arcing. Even with good enough cables, if the contact between the motherboard socket and the 24-pin connector is very loose, leading to a tiny gap between the two metal pieces, you can get arcing between them, which again lead to excessive heat in the area, and thus plastic melting.

You can try to discern between the two by examining the connectors in search of odd pins (like excessively recessed or open cylinders), but I don't think there's a fail-proof and simple method to do it. More importantly, it doesn't matter that much which of the two it is: wither way, that motherboard+PSU combination is a bad one to use and an accident waiting to happen (and I'm inclined to blame it all on the PSU).

 

Whenever I connect my 24 pin connector to my mother board, the connection is very lose. Like I could remove the 24 pin connector by simply pulling the said cable without trying to hold unto the lock between the motherboard and the atx connector. Which one could be the loose one? Is it the motherboard?

 

Also I forgot to mention, after shutting down my computer, it does shut down and lose signal but the fans and the lighting in front of the case is still on.

[damsdanerd]

11 minutes ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

There are two reasons why this can happen:

1. Wire gauge is not thick enough for the current your PC draws from the affected line. I haven't checked the pin-out, but by doing so you can tell which voltage corresponds to the affected wires. When the wire is "underwhelming" for the current going through it, it will get warmer, and warm enough metal will melt the plastic it's attached to.
2. Arcing. Even with good enough cables, if the contact between the motherboard socket and the 24-pin connector is very loose, leading to a tiny gap between the two metal pieces, you can get arcing between them, which again lead to excessive heat in the area, and thus plastic melting.

You can try to discern between the two by examining the connectors in search of odd pins (like excessively recessed or open cylinders), but I don't think there's a fail-proof and simple method to do it. More importantly, it doesn't matter that much which of the two it is: wither way, that motherboard+PSU combination is a bad one to use and an accident waiting to happen (and I'm inclined to blame it all on the PSU).

In the photos i  saw that it appears to be the same pins as me so i think it is the two 12 volts pins as me. same brand as me for hardware (full amd shit) and if a 80+ 750 watts psu is designed for max 600 watts i'm afraid a generic one would have problem to put 550 watts max (rx450 has no 6 pins if i'm right so every electric stream will go by those pins) so if you calculate a verage tdp it would be something as 480 watts i presume and the psu seems too weak to handle it, then problems occurs).

[seon123]

1 minute ago, damsdanerd said:

In the photos i  saw that it appears to be the same pins as me so i think it is the two 12 volts pins as me. same brand as me for hardware (full amd shit) and if a 80+ 750 watts psu is designed for max 600 watts i'm afraid a generic one would have problem to put 550 watts max (rx450 has no 6 pins if i'm right so every electric stream will go by those pins) so if you calculate a verage tdp it would be something as 480 watts i presume and the psu seems too weak to handle it, then problems occurs).

Please stop. 

Any PSU that isn't complete crap can output 100% of its rated power 24/7. The one OP has seems to be rated for 30A on 12V, so it's complete crap. The RX 550 is a low power card, the total system draw should be close to 100W. 

The potential reasons have been mentioned already. 

[SpaceGhostC2C]

10 minutes ago, Thelolster32 said:

 

Whenever I connect my 24 pin connector to my mother board, the connection is very lose. Like I could remove the 24 pin connector by simply pulling the said cable without trying to hold unto the lock between the motherboard and the atx connector. Which one could be the loose one? Is it the motherboard?

On closer inspection, it seems to be a 20+4 connector. If the connector doesn't stay firm in place, I could easily see the 20-pin and the 4-pin pieces not staying fully aligned, creating an ever so slight height (and hence contact quality) difference.

 

4 minutes ago, damsdanerd said:

In the photos i  saw that it appears to be the same pins as me so i think it is the two 12 volts pins as me. same brand as me for hardware (full amd shit) and if a 80+ 750 watts psu is designed for max 600 watts i'm afraid a generic one would have problem to put 550 watts max (rx450 has no 6 pins if i'm right so every electric stream will go by those pins) so if you calculate a verage tdp it would be something as 480 watts i presume and the psu seems too weak to handle it, then problems occurs).

Some motherboards come with molex connectors for the PCIe devices not to fully rely on the 24 pin delivery. I'm not sure whether they do it because the don't trust their own power delivery circuit, or because the don't trust the PSUs they expect people to pair with them at their price points  

[damsdanerd]

11 minutes ago, Thelolster32 said:

 

Whenever I connect my 24 pin connector to my mother board, the connection is very lose. Like I could remove the 24 pin connector by simply pulling the said cable without trying to hold unto the lock between the motherboard and the atx connector. Which one could be the loose one? Is it the motherboard?

i have exact same thing when it shutdown because of the melting. if you can go for a good psu, and try to verify inside of the motherboard 24 pins if there's not twisted pins, because of the melting it occurs for me (connectors are  starting to move because there's no more plastic on it).

[Thelolster32]

9 minutes ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

On closer inspection, it seems to be a 20+4 connector. If the connector doesn't stay firm in place, I could easily see the 20-pin and the 4-pin pieces not staying fully aligned, creating an ever so slight height (and hence contact quality) difference.

 

Some motherboards come with molex connectors for the PCIe devices not to fully rely on the 24 pin delivery. I'm not sure whether they do it because the don't trust their own power delivery circuit, or because the don't trust the PSUs they expect people to pair with them at their price points  

um... does the vs450 have a full 24 pin connector or just a 20+4  pin?

[seon123]

1 minute ago, Thelolster32 said:

um... does the vs450 have a full 24 pin connector or just a 20+4  pin?

Instead of replacing your crappy PSU with a slightly less crappy one, why not just get a decent PSU?

[Stefan Payne]

2 hours ago, Thelolster32 said:

I'm still using the pc with the same psu for a while in posting this reply

If you want to keep the PC, don't.

 

And I find it strange that the +12V Connectors are melting.

Do you have multiple Graphics Cards??

[Thelolster32]

15 minutes ago, seon123 said:

Instead of replacing your crappy PSU with a slightly less crappy one, why not just get a decent PSU?

I don't have the money, the vs450 is the best I could get. I was supposed to go to a summer job in my school when chickenpox  hit me in my last day of exams. In that I did not make it to the limited number of applicants accepted so I'm in a tight budget.

 

 

13 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

If you want to keep the PC, don't.

 

And I find it strange that the +12V Connectors are melting.

Do you have multiple Graphics Cards??

If you count the one in the apu, well then yes. But I only got 1 gpu and it's a 65 watt tdp rx 550 which is low powered.

[damsdanerd]

6 minutes ago, seon123 said:

Please stop. 

Any PSU that isn't complete crap can output 100% of its rated power 24/7. The one OP has seems to be rated for 30A on 12V, so it's complete crap. The RX 550 is a low power card, the total system draw should be close to 100W. 

The potential reasons have been mentioned already. 

LOL. NO! NO! and NO! GENERIC PSU CAN'T HANDLE 100 percent if you put stress on it, only at idle perhaps. I tried to calculate a max tdp and i got 319 watts for his rig but i don't know how many fans how many  hard drive if there's leds on his system etc etc. if for x or y reasons his psu could handle only 60 or 70% it is near the max. If 12 volts part can handle only 100 watts for example it can be short too. be smart buddy, if i'm short with mine, which is a good psu, with a generic one which is not a 80+ he couldnt handle the load, it's elementary my dear seon123 and there's a lot of variables in tdp specially with amd brand, age of the psu is another one too.

[Thelolster32]

the psu is 2 yrs old btw...

[Stefan Payne]

2 minutes ago, damsdanerd said:

LOL. NO! NO! and NO! GENERIC PSU CAN'T HANDLE 100 percent if you put stress on it, only at idle perhaps.

That's why he was talking about decent Quality PSU.

And he is right.

EVERY Decent PSU can output 100% of the specified Wattage!
If it can't its crap.

 

Easy as that.

 

2 minutes ago, damsdanerd said:

I tried to calculate a max tdp and i got 319 watts for his rig

What the heck did you do?!
That's like double to tripple what it actually does.

 

 

2 minutes ago, damsdanerd said:

but i don't know how many fans how many  hard drive if there's leds on his system etc etc.

Doesn't matter, those components consume next to nothing.

 

2 minutes ago, damsdanerd said:

if for x or y reasons his psu could handle only 60 or 70% it is near the max.

Yes, its shit. We know that already.

And that's what we are saying here.

 

And you yourself are saying the PSU is shit...

 

2 minutes ago, damsdanerd said:

If 12 volts part can handle only 100 watts for example it can be short too. be smart buddy, if i'm short with mine, which is a good psu, with a generic one which is not a 80+ he couldnt handle the load, it's elementary my dear seon123 and there's a lot of variables in tdp specially with amd brand, age of the psu is another one too.

WHAT are you talking about?!

 

It makes NO SENSE.

As for Output Capacity, take a look at that:

 

What do you say now?!

That's Bitfenix by the Way...

 

 

[damsdanerd]

2 minutes ago, Thelolster32 said:

the psu is 2 yrs old btw...

go for a good 650 80+ and i think it would be ok  i have found an evga 80+ bronze for you at only 39 $ go to amazon and search.

[Thelolster32]

So could I use a corsair vs450 for this with upgradability of some parts like gpu or motherboard+psu. Because I usually can afford only one upgrade a year with my current financial status as a highschool student.