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Fix any PC mouse that skips or extra clicks | Repairing a PC mouse

DIY tech

First of all i apologize for such a late update. Was very busy in JOB n bike repairs n family.

 

Shifted my PC to a bigger room. So cleaned most of my stuff and on the way gave this mouse some treatment.

Mouse clicks skipping or multiple clicks on a single click is a pretty common problem as the mouse gets old. I was facing this issue for pretty much a month now but didnt have time to treat the problem.

 

What cause this issue?

Mice buttons have a very thin copper shim in it, the actual thing that clicks. With passage of time it gets oxidize and this cause weak contact between the two copper parts (switch/button/click) which results in either multiple clicks or no click at all. Its a v v annoying thing but this happens to pretty much every expensive or inexpensive mouse over time.

In this video i showed how simple it is to get rid of this issue 99.9% .

You can give it a complete clean by opening up that button but i dont recommend it as its much risky as compare to this method.

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11 minutes ago, DIY tech said:

First of all i apologize for such a late update. Was very busy in JOB n bike repairs n family.

 

Shifted my PC to a bigger room. So cleaned most of my stuff and on the way gave this mouse some treatment.

Mouse clicks skipping or multiple clicks on a single click is a pretty common problem as the mouse gets old. I was facing this issue for pretty much a month now but didnt have time to treat the problem.

 

What cause this issue?

Mice buttons have a very thin copper shim in it, the actual thing that clicks. With passage of time it gets oxidize and this cause weak contact between the two copper parts (switch/button/click) which results in either multiple clicks or no click at all. Its a v v annoying thing but this happens to pretty much every expensive or inexpensive mouse over time.

In this video i showed how simple it is to get rid of this issue 99.9% .

You can give it a complete clean by opening up that button but i dont recommend it as its much risky as compare to this method.

Why on earth did you use WD40 instead of some rubbing alcohol? In the first place the WD40 is based on oil and water... so you'll just make your mouse more predisposed to gather dust right inside of that SWITCH...

 || CPU: Intel i5-8600K || Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212X || Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 HD3P || GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1050ti OC Windforce 4GB || Memory: 16GB Crucial DDR4 3000mhz || HDD: WD Black 500GB + Seagate Barracuda 2TB || SSD: Samsung 980 1TB || PSU: Corsair VS550 || Case: nJoy Ice Cage || Fans: Segotep Halo Ring RGB ||Monitor: 2x Dell 27" P2717H IPS Full HD || Second Monitor/TV: LG 49UJ620V UHD || Mouse: Logitech G502 || Keyboard: Logitech G810 + Royal Kludge RK84 || Speakers: Philips SPA-5300 subw + Arylic 2.1 + DIY Bookshelves w/ Dayton Audio || Headphones: HyperX Cloud Flight S ||

 

TO BE UPGRADED:

>> Headphones << >> Keyboard << >> HDD << >> Mouse << >> PC Case << >> Memory(another stick) << >> Graphics Card << 

 

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so.. have you done any sort of testing on how long this sort of "repair" lasts?

 

IMO whenever a switch goes bad, its best to just replace it, because despite what the internet claims, WD40 isnt magic, and it'll just start acting up again. if the mouse is worth enough to you to take it apart to repair a switch, just do the right thing and fish the switch out to replace it. yes, i know that involves a soldering iron, but it at least guarantees that the mouse wont just fail again next week. a failing switch is a failing switch, there's no use in endlessly tossing more lube in to keep it going.

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1 hour ago, manikyath said:

so.. have you done any sort of testing on how long this sort of "repair" lasts?

 

IMO whenever a switch goes bad, its best to just replace it, because despite what the internet claims, WD40 isnt magic, and it'll just start acting up again. if the mouse is worth enough to you to take it apart to repair a switch, just do the right thing and fish the switch out to replace it. yes, i know that involves a soldering iron, but it at least guarantees that the mouse wont just fail again next week. a failing switch is a failing switch, there's no use in endlessly tossing more lube in to keep it going.

Its no magic. Its as simple as cleaning spark plug. You are looking at WD-40 as a lube i used it as a contact cleaner :P 

Spark plug will get dirty over time no matter how optimum your carb/electronic adjustments are. In the same way the copper in these button will get oxidize no matter what.

I have worked on gaming mice from budget ones to enthusiasts one. Apart from broken wires i found this oxidation thing to be pretty common.

Initially the copper is coated with some protective layer i guess thats why the first oxidation takes a lot of time after that mice require treatment every six month. But i dont think that a 10min treatment is hard or difficult or un doable for an enthusiast or DIY man. 

I have been using the very same mouse for 6 freaking years with the very same thing i did in the video i cant give a better proof than that. 

But i have no doubt that replacing the switch is a better and long lasting treatment. Especially if one has a good gaming mouse and doesnt like the surgeries. 

 

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2 minutes ago, DIY tech said:

Its no magic. Its as simple as cleaning spark plug. You are looking at WD-40 as a lube i used it as a contact cleaner :P 

Spark plug will get dirty over time no matter how optimum your carb/electronic adjustments are. In the same way the copper in these button will get oxidize no matter what.

I have worked on gaming mice from budget ones to enthusiasts one. Apart from broken wires i found this oxidation thing to be pretty common.

Initially the copper is coated with some protective layer i guess thats why the first oxidation takes a lot of time after that mice require treatment every six month. But i dont think that a 10min treatment is hard or difficult or un doable for an enthusiast or DIY man. 

I have been using the very same mouse for 6 freaking years with the very same thing i did in the video i cant give a better proof than that. 

But i have no doubt that replacing the switch is a better and long lasting treatment. Especially if one has a good gaming mouse and doesnt like the surgeries. 

 

so.. past you talking about spark plugs (which are in a very dirty environment in comparison) the answer is essentially no.

 

as for your speculation on copper covered with some protective layer.. i question your amount of research.

most manufacturers choose brass as their metal of choice because of its mechanical properties, and resistance to wear from electrical arcs. once the contacts have worn enough to become iffy, all you're doing is washing off gunk to get some extra life out of it. you're not fixing anything, you're not de-oxidizing anything.

 

besides, it's not oxidation that makes the contact go bad, its the wear from electric arcing.

--

 

TLDR: what you essentially just did is find a new variation of telling people to put their GPU in an oven to "repair" it, and somehow turned "if your mouse button is iffy, spray some WD40 in the switch" into a 6 minute video.

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28 minutes ago, manikyath said:

so.. past you talking about spark plugs (which are in a very dirty environment in comparison) the answer is essentially no.

 

as for your speculation on copper covered with some protective layer.. i question your amount of research.

most manufacturers choose brass as their metal of choice because of its mechanical properties, and resistance to wear from electrical arcs. once the contacts have worn enough to become iffy, all you're doing is washing off gunk to get some extra life out of it. you're not fixing anything, you're not de-oxidizing anything.

 

besides, it's not oxidation that makes the contact go bad, its the wear from electric arcing.

--

 

TLDR: what you essentially just did is find a new variation of telling people to put their GPU in an oven to "repair" it, and somehow turned "if your mouse button is iffy, spray some WD40 in the switch" into a 6 minute video.

I m not so sure if the thing i baked was GPU or something alive thats burning for nothing  xD

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6 hours ago, R3ep3r said:

Why on earth did you use WD40 instead of some rubbing alcohol? In the first place the WD40 is based on oil and water... so you'll just make your mouse more predisposed to gather dust right inside of that SWITCH...

Minor nitpick but WD-40 isn't based on oil and water. The "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement" and is actually comprised of an oil and a hydrocarbon.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i am probably going to use this on my razer mouse
i have a feeling that this will cure the mouse but the braiding of it is coming off so its not really that good to restore it

i shall report back with a video if so.

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On 4/12/2018 at 4:36 PM, SharinganSensei said:

i am probably going to use this on my razer mouse
i have a feeling that this will cure the mouse but the braiding of it is coming off so its not really that good to restore it

i shall report back with a video if so.

it has been 17 days and mouse is working perfectly fine. As told before i was not using this method for the first time and it really works thats why i shared. Dont forget to share urresults so people had a lil faith then :D

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