Leak in the connection between my Pump and res combo

[Swediah]

Ive had my loop for a few months now, nothing leaked. But now suddenly it started leaking between My res pump combo, i dont wanna say i did a proper leak test, only did for about 1-2hrs first time. I did drain the loop now to check o ring between res and pump, my only idea is that its a Long built Up pressure? Because of air. 

[phongle123]

Not much detail at least for me to reach a proper solution. I've had 1 leaky spot where I did not make a clean vertical cut through my tubing. Rather I cut it diagonally since it was to be attached diagonally since it was a soft tube inside of a hard to reach place. When I had it cut clean vertically I just couldn't make it attach to the fitting. And when I could touch it or shake the case it would come out a little bit then I would get continuous droplets of water.

 

Built up air inside radiators can come out and build up pressure if it's not released. But rather your reservoir would start cracking. I've never heard of pressure pushing out a tube in liquid cooling. Though it can happen in other appliances.

 

I've had a 170mm reservoir that, from about 90-95% filled went down to empty 2.5 times because of all the air that was in my radiators within 2-3 weeks. I had to fill it up multiple times, it took over half a gallon of water. This is after my attempt at bleeding it already.

[Swediah]

Thanks for the Quick reply!

The thing is, theres no leaking from fittings at all, its only through the connection between the res and the pump. ?

[kb5zue]

10 minutes ago, Swediah said:

Ive had my loop for a few months now, nothing leaked. But now suddenly it started leaking between My res pump combo, i dont wanna say i did a proper leak test, only did for about 1-2hrs first time. I did drain the loop now to check o ring between res and pump, my only idea is that its a Long built Up pressure? Because of air. 

Just curious, if you drained the loop so there is no fluid in the system, how are you going to check for a leaky o-ring?  Because the system is a "closed loop" the pressure in the system should reach a given point and should not get any higher provided there is no leak.  Sort of like the radiator in your vehicle.  When the radiator system in your vehicle is fine, such as full of fluid and no leaks, then the pressure in the system will stabilize and all is good.  BUT, if the radiator springs a leak and fluid starts draining, then the pressure in the system will actually go down, or fall.

 

Same goes for your closed loop cooler on your cpu.  If you do have a leak, then the pressure in the loop will fall.  It will do this mainly because of the big difference in the types of pumps used to push water and air.  Also, be sure not to confuse liquid or air pumps with compressors.  Completely different things as I'm sure you already know.

[phongle123]

33 minutes ago, Swediah said:

My res pump combo

 

12 minutes ago, kb5zue said:

Because the system is a "closed loop"

I'd say this is an open loop.

[Swediah]

I mainly drained to see if the o ring was damaged, i already know where the leak is coming from and thats the only place, what i dont know is why its leaking from that spot and how.

[kb5zue]

1 minute ago, phongle123 said:

 

I'd say this is an open loop.

How is this an "open" loop?  A cooling system that requires that what goes in must go out and what goes out must go in is a closed loop.  This same definition applies to the air conditioning system in your automobile.  It is a closed system.  The pump takes fluid from the res and puts it into the system, once the fluid goes thru the system, it is then returned to the res.  A washing machine is an example of an open loop control system.  It is an open loop because the fluid (water) in the washing machine must go thru the drum and then from the drum, the water is flushed out into the drain.  In the case of a cpu cooler, the water (fluid) is not drained but recycled thru a closed loop.  Hence the cpu cooler, or AIO, is a closed loop system.

[Swediah]

Maybe i should have mentioned this, but its a loop for gpu/cpu With a 420 rad in the front

[phongle123]

1 minute ago, kb5zue said:

 

So he calls a an AIO a pump + res combo and drains a closed loop which he had for several months instead of going through warranty? That doesn't sound bizarre to you?

[Swediah]

12 minutes ago, phongle123 said:

So he calls a an AIO a pump + res combo and drains a closed loop which he had for several months instead of going through warranty? That doesn't sound bizarre to you?

Not sure if you're calling me stupid, this doesn't really help me tho. I can't really explain more because there's nothing else to explain about the leak other than it's the connection between pump and res and the top lid of the res was nearly impossible to open. 

 

If you're gonna argue please continue somewhere else. ?

[phongle123]

1 minute ago, Swediah said:

Not sure if you're calling me stupid, this doesn't really help me tho. I can't really explain more because there's nothing else to explain about the leak other than it's the connection between pump and res and the top lid of the res was nearly impossible to open. 

 

If you're gonna argue please continue somewhere else. ?

Not calling you anything. I'm just saying why I thought it was an open loop in the first place. 

 

Like I said in my first post, not much detail. Including the fact whether it's an Open loop (custom components) or a closed loop. 

[kb5zue]

I don't believe that anyone is calling anyone else anything.  It's just simpler to explain some things to people if they have a common point of interest.  In this case, the common point of interest is knowing and being able to understand the difference between an open and a closed loop.  Nothing more, nothing less.

 

If the pump is still under warranty, then for sure go for the RMA.  If not, then my first attempt would be to try and figure out how to open the pump to see if it would be possible to replace any o-rings or gaskets if possible.  Since becoming a home owner having purchased my home 20 years ago, the local plumbing shop knows me by name since I have been in there time and time again looking for o-rings and gaskets for the sinks, dish-washer, etc.

[Swediah]

9 minutes ago, phongle123 said:

Not calling you anything. I'm just saying why I thought it was an open loop in the first place. 

 

Like I said in my first post, not much detail. Including the fact whether it's an Open loop (custom components) or a closed loop. 

The pump+res is an EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM

[Swediah]

Well, its a custom loop. As i Said in a Previous post its a loop containing blocks for both cpu and gpu plus the 420 rad.

[phongle123]

11 minutes ago, Swediah said:

Well, its a custom loop. As i Said in a Previous post its a loop containing blocks for both cpu and gpu plus the 420 rad.

I knew that but trying to give the benefit of the doubt.

Can you point out where you're leaking. From what you're saying it looks like the purple location. And you checked the O-Ring situated on the Pump to see if it has any damage to it and there was not correct?

[Swediah]

Yes, the Purple place. O ring is not damaged.

[phongle123]

 

12 minutes ago, Swediah said:

Yes, the Purple place. O ring is not damaged.

I'm going to assume you have NOT reassembled the Open loop again. Do a 1 tube through the res/pump combo's In and Out. Leave it running and see if it is functioning properly overnight. Put some sort of paper under it to make sure you know that it is leaking or not. Even if it only leaks for 5 mins out of the whole test that's still a potential problem.

[meenmeen1103]

The o-ring may not look damaged yet it's very possible it no longer seals correctly anymore, due to sustained clamping pressure and temperature fluctuations. Also possible that simply tightening the pump to res helps it seal again. Either way, a leak test of pump/res like said above is in order, and maybe get yourself a replacement o-ring

[AnonymousGuy]

10 hours ago, meenmeen1103 said:

The o-ring may not look damaged yet it's very possible it no longer seals correctly anymore, due to sustained clamping pressure and temperature fluctuations. Also possible that simply tightening the pump to res helps it seal again. Either way, a leak test of pump/res like said above is in order, and maybe get yourself a replacement o-ring

This.  O-rings compress permanently over time and lose elasticity, maybe your oring got a bit pinched / twisted when you were screwing the pump res together.    Not much you can do besides putting it back together or replacing the oring.

 

Also check to make sure there isn't some sort of hairline crack in the plastic.  If you wrenched the thing together that's possible.

[tarfeef101]

yeah, check the plastic for cracking, that can happen. but more than likely the o-ring is damaged, be it flattened, cut, or even dislocated.

if it was the red circle from whomever posted that image, then cracking is actually more likely, that acrylic can be fragile.

[Swediah]

Thanks for the reply guys, did some testing today for about 7 hours and it did not leak. Gonna try it out in the full loop tomorrow.