Project Apocrypha Rebuild log

[Voxels-Box]

This is going to be my first attempt at an actual build log, where I detail rebuilding my PC for the 3rd time. 

The previous version had to be torn down due to issues with Primochill's Vue (detailed here), and I decided to do some upgrades and to redo the loop.

 

Parts List:

Spoiler

Core:

• Lian Li PC-O9 with mods
• AMD Ryzen 1700X at 3.9ghz
• Asus Strix Crosshair VI
• Asus Strix 1080ti
• Corsair HX750i with custom cables and 3D printed cablecombs
• Corsair 32gb RGB Ram 3000mhz
• Samsung 960 EVO 500gb
• PNY 500gb ssd
• 3x3tb Toshiba HDD in Raid 0
• 2x2tb Seagate HDD in Raid 1
• Aquacomputers Aquaero 6xt with heatsink

 

Watercooling:

• EKWB 1080ti Strix waterblock
• EKWB Asus X370 Crosshair Hero VI monoblock
• 2x360 EKWB PE radiators
• singularity computers D5 pump top/cover/reservoir combo
• Aquacomputers D5 pump with Aquabus
• Primochill PETG
• Primochill hardline fittings
• Primochill Flex tube
• misc bitspower, alpha cool and barrow angled fittings
• a temp sensor plug, temp inline fitting
• Primochill True UV purple clear

 

 

Original PC:

Spoiler

 Lots of RGB. I liked the rainbow wave more than Id like to admit.  I keep the lights at purple generally.

Previous Mods:

Spoiler

 I painted the tops of the Corsair Vengeance RGB modules. I also modeled and printed (with the help of my coworker Jeff H), theres cable combs. This is the replacement back panel for the Lian Li PC-O9 that allows for vertical gpu mounting. The bracket is from mountain mods. I used Primochill Kobra sleeving to create the core cables for the system.  The cable combs worked well, although they were a little large.  Im sleeving the minor cables (fans, aquaero, sata, etc) as part of the rebuild.

 

Other mods I did: 

Added a new power button

Painted the corsair HD120 frames

Painted the accent bar on the case

The new mods planned:

• Adding an Aquaero 6xt
• Adding a custom basement to house the AQ
• Using the new basement to redo the loop with more parallel lines, using bulkhead fittings.
• Adding USB 3.1 gen 1 Type C to replace the top I/O and the mess of cables needed for 4 USB 3.0 ports - In progress
• Adding an inline filter to the loop (I had it on hand from my adventures with Vue) - Complete
• Adding UV lighting
• Adding Primochill True UV purple fluid that will replace the Vue.
• Potential repainting of radiators
• Sleeving remaining cables - In progress

 

And of course, replumbing the system.

Ill try to update with photos as often as possible.

 

The system is currently fully taken apart and scattered across my apartment. Im currently working on case mods and the new basement. To see the process of dealing with Primochill Vue, see the link above. Due to that ordeal, I had to tear down the loop, and deep clean the blocks and rads. I used Mayhems Blitz and Primochill is going to be sending me a beta rad cleaning fluid.  Ill update asap on that.

 

Thanks for reading!

[Voxels-Box]

-Reserved-

[Voxels-Box]

First updates on the mods:

 

Sleeved the fan power and RGB connections for the 6 fans.  

 Added the filter  my hand slipped and I caused some damage to the case front. I might need to repaint.

 I cut the basement top panel out, and test fitted the pass through fittings and the connection beneath. (I already fixed the gap in the mini D-plug)

Added the USB 3.1 Type C port to the top. I just need to get some new bolts and nuts. 

[Voxels-Box]

Small update: I took apart the PC-O9 to prep the right side for paint. I’m in talks with a local artist to get a nice automotive paint on it. Thinking I might do a deep purple. 

it’s so strange seeing just the right side of the case on its own. 

 

I also prepped the top 360 rad for painting to repair some scuffs and scrapes on the original paint from EK. I like the bare aluminum, but I think I’ll paint it in silver and give it a clear coat. 

Thoughts on these paint plans? 

[Voxels-Box]

The right side of the case is now painted!  Way quicker than expected too!  Im very happy with the job that Daneen at http://www.customairbrush.com/ did. 

Ill be reassembling the case tonight. More photos to come.

[Voxels-Box]

The case is put back together! The inline filter, power button, and USB Type C mods are all reinstalled, and everything is working as intended. Great news!

[Zeuligan]

On 2018-03-21 at 7:29 PM, Voxels-Box said:

The right side of the case is now painted!  Way quicker than expected too!  Im very happy with the job that Daneen at http://www.customairbrush.com/ did. 

Ill be reassembling the case tonight. More photos to come.

That color is amazing. Love the build and it’s a sure follow. Can’t wait to see next update 

[Voxels-Box]

The top 360mm radiator is prepared with proper cable tie downs and I’ve test fitted where the AQC splitty9 will go. It’ll need to be on the PSU side of the case. 

I also tested the 7 drive Sata power cable that I built for V1 but never used. Each connector delivered power to a test LED fan, so I’m hoping it’ll work with the six drives. I still need to shorten and sleeve the two fans on the cage. 

 

Next up up is more acrylic work. I’ll have to wait for Tuesday or Wednesday to be able to paint, due to the cold and rain. 

 

[Zeuligan]

That’s a lot of drives

What is that fan extension chip?

[Voxels-Box]

1 hour ago, Zeuligan said:

That’s a lot of drives

What is that fan extension chip?

13 terabytes of HDD and a 500gb SSD for my working files  

 

It’s a Phobya 4 way PWM splitter, I got mine from ModMyMods

 

[Voxels-Box]

Today’s progress:

I set up a temporary loop to run Primochills beta loop prep fluid. I don’t have high hopes that it’ll do much for the damage caused by Vue in the rads, but since they sent it, I ought to try it. I’ll let it run for 72 hours. It’s very foamy. Not sure if it’s meant to be, or if it’s just air in the loop. 

[Voxels-Box]

Fun update!

My coworker Jeff 3D printed a mount for the Aquaero 6xt that I modeled in OnShape. It was fun modeling something using dimensions from a caliper and the actual object in my hands.  Im used to modeling from photo ref.  

This piece will get sanded, joined with the side acrylic pieces and the top of the shroud.  Then I will paint it black with a glossy varnish.  Im torn between doing all black for the shroud, or adding some silver accents using vinyl tape and masking a pattern. Thoughts?

 

[Voxels-Box]

I tore down the temporary loop tonight, after 72 hours. A quick distilled flush, and now the components are drying. Is there a good way to dry blocks without disassembly? 

I also test fitted the Aquaero in the 3D printed mount, and it fits perfectly. Not even a millimeter of wiggle room. I’ll continue assembling the basement on Friday. I’m hoping to paint on Saturday. 

[Voxels-Box]

I’m nearly done with the basement. I did lots of sanding and test fitting, then did my first acrylic weld. I used a T square and a combo square to hold the acrylic at a perfect 90 degrees and clamped the CS down. That worked well and the joint was perfect. 

Except one thing:

I welded those pieces with the wrong sides touching. That means that the hole in the side is now misaligned to the fittings. I’ll need to resize some of the sides to compensate. 

I hope to finish and paint this tomorrow

[Voxels-Box]

I didn’t get to paint today, but I am just about finished with the new basement. The test fit went perfectly, and I’m very happy with how it meets the GPU. I think this is actually gonna work!

I’m still torn on how I should paint it.  I have a couple options: glossy black, glossy silver, black with silver accents, silver with black accents, or black/silver, with purple accents. Any thoughts? 

[Voxels-Box]

Painting the shroud has been an interesting process. This is my first time painting something so complex with spray paint. Windy conditions and somewhat cool weather caused some complications. Dust landing on the paint was a big issue, which required me to sand back down the paint with 300-3000 grit sandpaper to get smooth. So in total, I believe I did 8 coats of flat black. I was then doing the clear coat, and I’m very glad that I started on the cable cover panel, because it caused an immediate crinkling of the paint, and started to strip it. I’ve since sanded it back.

 

Does anyone know why this happened, and how to prevent it?

I was using Rustoleum 2x flat black, then Rustoleum semi gloss clear coat

[Rosinbole]

11 hours ago, Voxels-Box said:

Painting the shroud has been an interesting process. This is my first time painting something so complex with spray paint. Windy conditions and somewhat cool weather caused some complications. Dust landing on the paint was a big issue, which required me to sand back down the paint with 300-3000 grit sandpaper to get smooth. So in total, I believe I did 8 coats of flat black. I was then doing the clear coat, and I’m very glad that I started on the cable cover panel, because it caused an immediate crinkling of the paint, and started to strip it. I’ve since sanded it back.

 

Does anyone know why this happened, and how to prevent it?

I was using Rustoleum 2x flat black, then Rustoleum semi gloss clear coat

Did you remember to wipe all grease off with an some sort of ethanol based product and prime the plastic? I once painted a 980 ti when it was completely new and I forgot primer... Imagine my face when my 6000 DKK graphics card looked like that!  Really... The entire shroud if my MSI gaming X looked that...

[Voxels-Box]

6 hours ago, matias_a_etersen said:

Did you remember to wipe all grease off with an some sort of ethanol based product and prime the plastic? I once painted a 980 ti when it was completely new and I forgot primer... Imagine my face when my 6000 DKK graphics card looked like that!  Really... The entire shroud if my MSI gaming X looked that...

No, I didnt think to wipe it with anything other than water. The paint I used is a paint/primer all in one, so Im hoping that that is fine. Ill try using isopropyl alcohol (unless it has to be ethanol) to wipe it down before trying again.

Man, Im sorry to hear about that GPU! That sounds like a modders nightmare!

[Rosinbole]

1 hour ago, Voxels-Box said:

No, I didnt think to wipe it with anything other than water. The paint I used is a paint/primer all in one, so Im hoping that that is fine. Ill try using isopropyl alcohol (unless it has to be ethanol) to wipe it down before trying again.

Man, Im sorry to hear about that GPU! That sounds like a modders nightmare!

Yeah, fortunately I saved it, but wave goodbye to those clean lines... the whole thing ended up being a smooth curve  And no, it doesn't have to be ethanol... I just said ethanol based product (such as isopropyl alcohol) because I didn't remember it's name

[W-L]

4 hours ago, Voxels-Box said:

No, I didnt think to wipe it with anything other than water. The paint I used is a paint/primer all in one, so Im hoping that that is fine. Ill try using isopropyl alcohol (unless it has to be ethanol) to wipe it down before trying again.

Man, Im sorry to hear about that GPU! That sounds like a modders nightmare!

Primer and paint tends to work much better, as for why the wrinkling occurred did you let it thoroughly dry the proper amount of time before between coats. Also be sure to paint in warm temps no lower than 18C that can cause some drying issues if it's too cold. 

[Voxels-Box]

4 minutes ago, W-L said:

Primer and paint tends to work much better, as for why the wrinkling occurred did you let it thoroughly dry the proper amount of time before between coats. Also be sure to paint in warm temps no lower than 18C that can cause some drying issues if it's too cold. 

Ah I see. For the basecoat, I waited 15 minutes between coats, and let it dry for 24 hours.  The picture of the wrinkling was taken after the first coat. Its possible that I laid it on too thick.  The outside temps were 22-23C, though it was windy.

[W-L]

2 minutes ago, Voxels-Box said:

Ah I see. For the basecoat, I waited 15 minutes between coats, and let it dry for 24 hours.  The picture of the wrinkling was taken after the first coat. Its possible that I laid it on too thick.  The outside temps were 22-23C, though it was windy.

It's best to refer to the manufacture's specs for when to recoat usually it's around 20mins or so, if you don't let it dry enough between coats of it's it's too thick it can cause issues. For the clear how thick did you apply it, similar with the base coats it should be fairly applied light and not puddle at all. 

[Voxels-Box]

54 minutes ago, W-L said:

It's best to refer to the manufacture's specs for when to recoat usually it's around 20mins or so, if you don't let it dry enough between coats of it's it's too thick it can cause issues. For the clear how thick did you apply it, similar with the base coats it should be fairly applied light and not puddle at all. 

The can of the paint says that recoats can be applied anytime. It appeared flat after 15 minutes, so not much puddling happened.  For the clear coat, it was difficult to tell how much I was actually applying, so Im not quite sure.  I will be very careful with my reattempt for sure.

[W-L]

Just now, Voxels-Box said:

The can of the paint says that recoats can be applied anytime. It appeared flat after 15 minutes, so not much puddling happened.  For the clear coat, it was difficult to tell how much I was actually applying, so Im not quite sure.  I will be very careful with my reattempt for sure.

It needs drying time in between coats you can't just apply coat after coat right away, but 15-20 mins is pretty good once it looses it's shine or any wetness to it. 

[Voxels-Box]

I’ve made good progress this week, and I’m hoping to finish the build by EOD Monday. 

The shroud was clear coated and I had no issues this time. Perhaps the extra time to dry or the isopropyl alcohol did the trick. I’ve fitted the side rad and mobo, and test fitted the shroud. The clearance around the front panel connectors is amazing. I couldn’t believe that it didn’t hit a cap or a connector!