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How to upgrade hp pro 6300 MT power supply or HP Elite 8200 sff (fix)

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hi, first I apologize for any grammar mistakes, English is not my native language, so i wanted to upgrade my HP pro 6300's power supply to something more powerful but the motherboard gets power from a weird p2 connector and a 6 pin connector instead of a standard 24 pin power connector. after doing a little bit of research, i managed to stick in an EVGA 500w PSU and everything is working fine so far, if anyone wants to know how i did it, here is what you need to do.

 

- buy a 24 pin to 6 pin adapter cable ( around $10) https://i.imgur.com/mAH1oTQ.jpg but they are made for z220/z230 workstations only. so, you'll have to easily change the pins layout of that white p2 connector for the adapter to work with your HP pro 6300. (this is the one I bought   https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075242NGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

 

- remove all 4 cables from that white p2 connector and compare the cables with the ones from your old PSU.

your old PSU will have 4 or 5 cables on that p2 connector ( grey, green, white, white with red stripes, and sometimes black) .

the adapter will have (yellow, green, red, black)

 

ok, then put the yellow cable back in where the grey one was and put the green one back in where the green one was and put the black one back in where the pure white one was. and put the red one exactly next to where you put the yellow one. 

 

ok now turn on your pc and that's it.

 

if you get an error on startup saying that the PSU fan is not detected, press F1 to ignore it and continue, but if you get tired of the error every time you start your pc and want to fix it, here is what to do.

 

remember the black cable you inserted where the pure white one was, that cable is a TAC cable, it sends the PSU fan speed readings to motherboard but since the new PSU's wiring is not the same as the old HP one, the motherboard has no clue. so, you'll need to cut that black cable from where the cable meets with the 24 pin connector thingy (just to get enough length of it) https://i.imgur.com/n3W9MG5.jpg and then you'll need to attach it to the green TAC cable of the CPU fan connector and this will trick the motherboard into thinking that the CPU fan it is sensing is the PSU fan and you won't get any errors. Good luck

https://i.imgur.com/63KGBe5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DRN6twk.jpg

 

Edit : I just tested the adapter on a HP elite 8200 sff motherboard and it works just as well.

 

Edit 2: Another option would be buying a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable but it's not really recommended for anything above a GTX1060 cause these prebuilt PCs come with only 320W PSU, here's how it works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkmsLxnCfrQ

 

Edit 3:  Here's a diagram of how exactly my adapter is wired https://imgur.com/20grXCCFor those that have differently colored adapters, you can still follow this diagram but you gotta check where your wires are going exactly.

 

 


 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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Thanks for sharing. Your post will surely help others =) 

 

 

Cheers

Ang


2 Main Systems (mine and my late wifes): AsRock Fatal1ty Z77 Pro, Core I5 3570k @4300, 16 GB Ram DDR3 2133, some SSD, and a 2 TB HDD each, Gainward Phantom 760GTX. 

 

On the Road: Acer Aspire 5 Model A515-51G-54FD, Intel Core i5 7200U, 8 GB DDR4 Ram, 120 GB SSD, 1 TB HDD, Intel CPU GFX and Nvidia MX 150, Full HD IPS display

 

Media System: Asrock ASRock Z87 Extreme4/TB4, Intel Core i5 4460, 16 GB Ram DDR3 1600 ADATA XPG, 1 275 GB SSD, 2 Seagate 500 GB HDD, Gainward Phantom 560 GTX

 

(Abit Fatal1ty FP9 IN SLI, C2Duo E8400, 6 GB Ram DDR2 800, far too less diskspace, Gainward Phantom 560 GTX broken need fixing)

 

Nostalgia: Amiga 1200, Tower Build, CPU/FPU/MMU 68EC020, 68030, 68882 @50 Mhz, 10 MByte ram (2 MB Chip, 8 MB Fast), Fast SCSI II, 2 CDRoms, 2 1 GB SCSI II IBM Harddrives, 512 MB Quantum Lightning HDD, self soldered Sync changer to attach VGA displays, WLAN

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Thank you, thank you so much. I just installed the adapter with my 500w power supply and my hd7790 gigabyte card. I had a problem with the wire configuration. You saved my life.

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I assume this is for the mini desktop version and not for the all in one as my all in one has what looks like a mini 20 pin connector and appears to have all the colors of a standard 20 pin connector. It looks like I can just wire the connector on this directly to my new power supply  and I'm good to go. You should specify what model of computer so people don't get confused as there are several models of the HP Compaq 6300.

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What do you mean by change the p2 connectors for the adapter to work? I'm looking to install a 500w PSU for the 6300, any suggestions for the stock case?  I'm willing to mod it if you tell me how.  Thanks to whoever helps

 

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Really wish I'd seen this post a week ago. I'm building a budget gaming rig out of an HP EliteDesk 880 SFF, which also uses non-standard power leads... Won an auction for a GTX 1060 but returned it and spent just as much on a 1050Ti after several people told me it was next to impossible to adapt an off-the-shelf PSU to work with HP's nonstandard motherboards.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 8/30/2018 at 8:41 AM, LogicBeWithYou said:

How do you change the white p2 connector on the adapter? 

 

 

Bro, i think i clearly explained the process of swapping the pins in the 3rd paragraph. do you have the HP PSU that came with your PC? here is a simple diagram https://imgur.com/a/MZanlwr. if you're still having trouble, feel free to send me pictures of both of your PSU connectors and the adapter, i will show you exactly which cables to swap


 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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First time poster, long time lurker.  I have this same situation.  I am going to try to follow this to a T.  I was able to snag up a HP Pro 6300 i5 3470 1tb HDD for $140 shipped to my door so I turned it into a media center.  Currently running a HD 7750 1gb GPU single slot for light gaming but wanted to be able to push this thing and was about to spring for the GTX 1050ti when I saw people were doing a 1060.

 

Really appreciate you posting this.  I went from thinking Ill have to replace this HTPC for my living room in 2ish years due to phasing out upgradability but now this changes the game lol. 

 

(ALSO I found another forum where someone used the 320W PSU in the MT version and used a dual SATA to 6 pin to power the SFF 1060 GTX and said it put his PSU at 100% load and CPU at 80-99% load during BF1 1080p for hours with no hiccups) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812400106&ignorebbr=1

 

Questions you or someone may be able to answer, Im a shade tree PC builder who just understands how to google stuff (Im at work not staring into that case so forgive me if I am incorrect)

 

1.) The PSU connects to the mobo and out of the mobo are the SATA power rails correct?  I think that's how its set up, I haven't cracked the case in over 6 months.

Can you still use those rails coming off the mobo or would it be best (safest) to just utilize the connections from my ATX PSU I will be installing (I have a 650w laying around in my parts pile)

 

2.) Can a 120MM (example) Cooler Master Lite 120 AIO be installed as a push/pull config to bring air into the system to minimize the footprint of the current HP heatsink?  They get on sale for $30 bucks shipped sometimes and that's a cheap upgrade, and a much better cooling solution imho than the fanless intake setup by HP) if possible would free up space for longer GPU?

 

3.) What thermals are you running with the 1060 in the case? 

 

Currently running this setup, let me know if you have any mods/ideas you would suggest!!! 

HP Pro 6300 Microtower

Win 10 64 bit

i5 3470

16gb (4x4) DDR3 G-Skill Ripjaws

60gb SSD Boot drive (prices have really fallen, probably upgrading to 240 or bigger)

1tb WD Mechanical drive for steam library and ripped blu rays

LG Blu Ray/M disc/CD/DVD burner/player

Dual SSD bay in the 3.5" compartment

PCIE X16 - Sapphire HD 7750 1gb GPU single slot

PCI Slot - 4 USB 2.0 external +1 internal USB 2.0 (couldn't think what else to get for ye ol' PCI slot)

PCIEx1 Slot - ASUS AC1200 Bluetooth 4.2 Wifi (AC55BT model) (though I keep it hardlined for streaming over my network)

1 empty PCIEx1 slot, leaving as such for dual slot card as all models of single slot decent GPU's have heating issues

1 empty 5.25" bay, have multiple drives but not into burning discs anymore lol

Running a single 20" 1080p monitor and a 55" 1080p tv

 

As it is I can run ARK poorly or good on potato graphics, GTA5 is throttled by GPU memory so can only run in 720p but runs great, I have a huge steam library really haven't tried any more graphic intense games on it, but this isn't even my gaming PC LOL.  Mostly kids games and emulators with XBOX 1 controllers as this is for the living room entertainment...but just in case I want to game on it I want to thank you again for this post!

 


Space Heater: ASUS M5A99FX PRO r2.0, AMD FX-8350, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (4x4) Corsair Vengeance DDR3, Corsair HX850 PSU, Corsair H100i GTX 240mm AIO cooler, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case

Ryzen Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper DDR4 2133, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, 640gb WD Blue 7200 RPM Mech drive, Rosewill Nautilus 1.0 Case

Media Center: HP Pro 6300 MT, i5-3470, Sapphire HD 7750 1gb GPU, 8 gb (4x2) Gskill Ripjaws DDR3, Lite On 320w PSU, Stock HP Cooler, 60gb Patriot SSD boot drive, 1tb WD 7200 RPM Mechanical drive, 500gb Toshiba 7200 RPM Mech Drive with Win 7, Rosewill 4x External 1x Internal USB PCI hub, ASUS AC55BT wifi adapter, LG Blu Ray/M-Disc/DVD/CD Player/Burner, LG DVD/CD Player/Burner, 3.5" Media Card Reader (about to do a complete overhaul on the HTPC, build post incoming....loop, GPU upgrade etc!)

Micro Form Factor Dell OptiPlex 3040: Dell 0MGK50 A02, i3-6100T, 4gb DDR3 1600, Team Group 120gb SSD, Windows 10 Pro, Logitech K400+

 

A couple laptops and tablets around the house

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Hey so i JUST figured this out, literally minutes ago. Here's what I did to make it work, no idea how long it will actually work but oh well. These instructions are for a Compaq 8200 Elite.


So originally I had a regular ol compaq, but i wanted to fit a new power supply in it, and i didnt have any P2 [white rectangle plastic piece with (red/yellow/green/black) wires] connector that would fit in my motherboard. Without this the computer wouldnt start.

I bought a 24pin to 6 pin p2 connector adapter, and made sure to repin the wires of the p2 connector so that they were in the correct configuration to the power supply which came already wired to my Compaq.      
For me it was: 


(from top looking down, so that the bottom of the case is facing towards your left, and the top of the computer case it facing towards your right)

|       |         |        |            |         |                  
Red   Yellow Green Black    [blank] [blank]     

 

This is the configuration of the original piece, from the power supply that i removed.


Compare the wire layout of the original, and replicate it with the adapter. You need to take a pin, and press it against the hooks so that it can push them in, and release the small colored wires.     


Then, since i was still getting that error message (but at least my computer turned on) Now it was time to fix the "PSU not detected" error.      

I took a small wire, [the exact same type of wire that you just repinned] from my old PSU cable, and i snipped ONE END so that i could string it from a fan all the way over to the new PSU inputs. I did not snip both ends because i needed one original input to stick into the new PSU connector (on the new adapter that i had just bought). Again, ONLY SNIP ONE END. LEAVE THE OTHER END THAT HAS THE DEFAULT CONNECTING HOOK ALONE.   

 

In order to do this, i needed to take a look at the fan. It is located in the back, and has a brown connector which connects it to the motherboard. I unpinned the GREEN wire from the fan, took the [snipped wire]  [peeled back the jacket of the wire exposing the metal core in the middle] and carefully wrapped the core around the hook portion of the GREEN wire so that, when i reinserted the GREEN wire back into the brown connector, the GREEN wire would also feel voltage to the metal core of the [snipped wire].     

 

Here's where it gets semi retarded. 

The yellow wire is the source of  {{{MY}}} "Psu not detected" issue. I cannot promise that it is the source of yours, but if your computer is the same as mine (Compaq 8200 elite) it is likely to be the same solution.     

 

So, naturally you need to **unpin that yellow wire**,  

  
and insert the hook end of the wire into that space where the yellow wire was.  

  
REMEMBER the wire you are putting into the hole previously occupied by the yellow wire is the wire [*that is now running from the GREEN (shared) socket attached to the brown fan connector*].     

 

From the fan, to the yellow wire's spot.  

  

Not trying to sound like a dick, just trying to be very precise and clear :)     

 

Now, you are almost there.     

 

Right now you have an exposed yellow wire. You cannot just stuff that wire in either blank space on the p2 connector, because the computer will think that wire is still plugged in, and your "PSU fan not detected" error will not go away.    

 

Do a test and see that while the yellow wire is out, the computer turns on and the error is gone. If this is the case, you have no need for that yellow wire, so i would probably make sure that bitch doesnt randomly touch parts of your computer case and break something or start a fire. Snip the end, find a piece of plastic or something to go over it idk. I snipped mine and found an unused brown fan connector and stuffed it in there, so that nothing touched the metal core.     


its a daring adventure, but it worked for me. Thinking back on it tho, if you dont have any wires to make that connection work, you might be able to accomplish it by simply cutting the Yellow wire on one end and using the snipped end to pair with the green wire on the fan connector. The yellow wire would already be connected to your p2 port so you wouldnt have to unpin it, and the snipped end would be cut far enough so that you could simply attach it to the green fan wire.     

Whatever. Hindsight is 20/20 i guess. Good luck

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On 8/11/2018 at 8:45 PM, Nexus666 said:

I assume this is for the mini desktop version and not for the all in one as my all in one has what looks like a mini 20 pin connector and appears to have all the colors of a standard 20 pin connector. It looks like I can just wire the connector on this directly to my new power supply  and I'm good to go. You should specify what model of computer so people don't get confused as there are several models of the HP Compaq 6300.

So what model do you have if you don't mind sharing? Maybe share a picture of the mobo... I am on the verge of buying the compaq pro 6300 MT version (mini-tower). I believe this model also doesn't have a normal 24-pin from the information I've gathered. 

 

On 9/24/2018 at 1:09 AM, Mcdonwald said:

Hey so i JUST figured this out, literally minutes ago. Here's what I did to make it work, no idea how long it will actually work but oh well. These instructions are for a Compaq 8200 Elite.


So originally I had a regular ol compaq, but i wanted to fit a new power supply in it, and i didnt have any P2 [white rectangle plastic piece with (red/yellow/green/black) wires] connector that would fit in my motherboard. Without this the computer wouldnt start.

I bought a 24pin to 6 pin p2 connector adapter, and made sure to repin the wires of the p2 connector so that they were in the correct configuration to the power supply which came already wired to my Compaq.      
For me it was: 


(from top looking down, so that the bottom of the case is facing towards your left, and the top of the computer case it facing towards your right)

|       |         |        |            |         |                  
Red   Yellow Green Black    [blank] [blank]     

 

This is the configuration of the original piece, from the power supply that i removed.


Compare the wire layout of the original, and replicate it with the adapter. You need to take a pin, and press it against the hooks so that it can push them in, and release the small colored wires.     


Then, since i was still getting that error message (but at least my computer turned on) Now it was time to fix the "PSU not detected" error.      

I took a small wire, [the exact same type of wire that you just repinned] from my old PSU cable, and i snipped ONE END so that i could string it from a fan all the way over to the new PSU inputs. I did not snip both ends because i needed one original input to stick into the new PSU connector (on the new adapter that i had just bought). Again, ONLY SNIP ONE END. LEAVE THE OTHER END THAT HAS THE DEFAULT CONNECTING HOOK ALONE.   

 

In order to do this, i needed to take a look at the fan. It is located in the back, and has a brown connector which connects it to the motherboard. I unpinned the GREEN wire from the fan, took the [snipped wire]  [peeled back the jacket of the wire exposing the metal core in the middle] and carefully wrapped the core around the hook portion of the GREEN wire so that, when i reinserted the GREEN wire back into the brown connector, the GREEN wire would also feel voltage to the metal core of the [snipped wire].     

 

Here's where it gets semi retarded. 

The yellow wire is the source of  {{{MY}}} "Psu not detected" issue. I cannot promise that it is the source of yours, but if your computer is the same as mine (Compaq 8200 elite) it is likely to be the same solution.     

 

So, naturally you need to **unpin that yellow wire**,  

  
and insert the hook end of the wire into that space where the yellow wire was.  

  
REMEMBER the wire you are putting into the hole previously occupied by the yellow wire is the wire [*that is now running from the GREEN (shared) socket attached to the brown fan connector*].     

 

From the fan, to the yellow wire's spot.  

  

Not trying to sound like a dick, just trying to be very precise and clear :)     

 

Now, you are almost there.     

 

Right now you have an exposed yellow wire. You cannot just stuff that wire in either blank space on the p2 connector, because the computer will think that wire is still plugged in, and your "PSU fan not detected" error will not go away.    

 

Do a test and see that while the yellow wire is out, the computer turns on and the error is gone. If this is the case, you have no need for that yellow wire, so i would probably make sure that bitch doesnt randomly touch parts of your computer case and break something or start a fire. Snip the end, find a piece of plastic or something to go over it idk. I snipped mine and found an unused brown fan connector and stuffed it in there, so that nothing touched the metal core.     


its a daring adventure, but it worked for me. Thinking back on it tho, if you dont have any wires to make that connection work, you might be able to accomplish it by simply cutting the Yellow wire on one end and using the snipped end to pair with the green wire on the fan connector. The yellow wire would already be connected to your p2 port so you wouldnt have to unpin it, and the snipped end would be cut far enough so that you could simply attach it to the green fan wire.     

Whatever. Hindsight is 20/20 i guess. Good luck

 

First of all thank you so much for helping us all out... But you would actually do us a great service and post some pics of the machine, the motherboard and what wires we'd need to actually cut to make this work? Maybe a short video/tutorial if you have the time. 

 

Thanks again!

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My purpose is to use my Sapphire HD7850 1Gb Dual X by a rise cable ( Thermaltake TT Gaming Riser PCI-E 3.0 Cavo, Nero, 200 mm) ...in a 6300  hp microtower...externaly to case...obviuosly After PSU upgrade😯😯...

have you some opinioni? Thk

 

Adaptor is arrived....no colours cables...any help??

IMG_20181025_133327.jpg

IMG_20181025_132245.jpg

IMG_20181025_132323.jpg

IMG_20181025_132326.jpg

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Posted · Original PosterOP
42 minutes ago, gianpiero_f said:

Adaptor is arrived....no colours cables...any help??

Assume those cables are colored like this and then follow the instructions as usual. Good luck 😃

https://imgur.com/a/b0njPK6  or https://imgur.com/a/yUKDFLX

As a side note, I recommend putting some electrical tape around those exposed wires on your adapter to avoid any electric shock.


 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
8 hours ago, gianpiero_f said:

Can You confirm please? The Red harrows are the new connection

yes,👍 https://imgur.com/63KGBe5


 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
34 minutes ago, gianpiero_f said:

the 6 pin adapter (Black in Photo)) have a different shape from the original (White

Do not worry about that, just simply plug the adapter in.


 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, i use arch btw said:

i made an account just to say thank you 

👍


 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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