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techswede

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

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31 minutes ago, bimmerman said:

Well, I sold the M3 sedan this past weekend. Down to just the SS and the M3 coupe track machine. I'm debating trading the SS in on a Model 3P as well...

 

As for why 400hp, why not? Merging is quite nice when you don't have to think about it. You see a spot and there you are.

 

As for E92s....I dig em. The M3 with DCT and coilovers will clear 295 sticky tires and runs truly stupid lap times, while sounding glorious. Big fan.

i somehow prefer the 335i and 335d over the M3 

but they can run stupid lap times 


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1 minute ago, PandaCopyRight said:

i somehow prefer the 335i and 335d over the M3 

but they can run stupid lap times 

for an all-rounder daily, yea the 335i is the winner. I liked my buddy's car-- throttle response was a solid meh/10 and the lag was annoying, but once the turbos were on boil it was quite a playful car.

 

I wasn't impressed with the 335d. Sure it's got torque, but the lag was not pleasant, and it felt like it ran out of steam too early. For a commute mobile, sure, I guess....just didn't satisfy my enthusiast wants in the way the 335i does. Auto only also was a major ugh.

 

That all said, I'd take an M3/DCT in a heartbeat over either. Better noise, actual throttle response, etc etc.

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Another thing with having good power in a daily. If you don't have enough power it makes overtaking on back roads a nightmare. E.G. The Impala is trash


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4 hours ago, RevoltTrain said:

Another thing with having good power in a daily. If you don't have enough power it makes overtaking on back roads a nightmare. E.G. The Impala is trash

Yep especially if the guy you’re overtaking is an idiot and decides to try to speed up too. 

 

If you ever wondered why they make cars with 700hp for the road I’m pretty sure that’s why LOL

 

in the Miata passing someone is:

1. Get back a decent distance

2 wait for a gap

3. When you see a large gap coming, floor it

4. Stay behind in the draft as long as possible and swing out and around and then pass them 

 

It’s like so overly dramatic just to pass someone it’s stupid LOL


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2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Yep especially if the guy you’re overtaking is an idiot and decides to try to speed up too. 

 

If you ever wondered why they make cars with 700hp for the road I’m pretty sure that’s why LOL

 

in the Miata passing someone is:

1. Get back a decent distance

2 wait for a gap

3. When you see a large gap coming, floor it

4. Stay behind in the draft as long as possible and swing out and around and then pass them 

 

It’s like so overly dramatic just to pass someone it’s stupid LOL

Oh man I forgot all about your NB. Shit I thought I had it bad


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1 minute ago, RevoltTrain said:

Oh man I forgot all about your NB. Shit I thought I had it bad

Nah man, in my 2.0 auto 626 I don't even pass unless there's a solid 1/8th mile gap in traffic coming up in the fast lane. When my mom replaced it with her 2.5 Mazda 3 one of her first remarks was 'I can pass other cars now!' LOL

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14 hours ago, bimmerman said:

Well, I sold the M3 sedan this past weekend.

 

5845cd230b2a3b54fdbaecf7.png.314cce25d35575e2ab7f79f18acd9bcf.png


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14 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Yep especially if the guy you’re overtaking is an idiot and decides to try to speed up too. 

 

If you ever wondered why they make cars with 700hp for the road I’m pretty sure that’s why LOL

 

in the Miata passing someone is:

1. Get back a decent distance

2 wait for a gap

3. When you see a large gap coming, floor it

4. Stay behind in the draft as long as possible and swing out and around and then pass them 

 

It’s like so overly dramatic just to pass someone it’s stupid LOL

i can barely pass people in a 2.5 subaru outback mainly due to a trash ass cvt. if it had a real auto it probably wouldn't have issues passing up people 


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21 minutes ago, terrytek said:

i can barely pass people in a 2.5 subaru outback mainly due to a trash ass cvt. if it had a real auto it probably wouldn't have issues passing up people 

floor it a bit sooner? use the sport mode ... if it has one? 


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36 minutes ago, terrytek said:

i can barely pass people in a 2.5 subaru outback mainly due to a trash ass cvt. if it had a real auto it probably wouldn't have issues passing up people 

I know how you feel with my 2.0 Impreza with cvt. I passed someone for the first time yesterday, but got kinda close to an oncoming outback.


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1 hour ago, terrytek said:

i can barely pass people in a 2.5 subaru outback mainly due to a trash ass cvt. if it had a real auto it probably wouldn't have issues passing up people 

Odd. I’ve never had that problem with the 4L60e which is garbage according to the internet. And the tahoe is like 5300/5400 pounds


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2 hours ago, terrytek said:

i can barely pass people in a 2.5 subaru outback mainly due to a trash ass cvt. if it had a real auto it probably wouldn't have issues passing up people 

Youre meant to push the right pedal for that


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So I bought another bike! 😁

 

Spoiler

It's a 1990 Honda NSR 125R

KfHnnIN.jpg

 

It's a little ratty, needs a bit of TLC but nothing is too bad. Engine, frame and suspension is all good from what I have seen. The cosmetics, lights and tires are not the best though. Front break had no leaver and the reservoir was bad, the little window just fell out into my hand when I tapped it so that's one thing that needs replacing. Oh and this is what the rear break fluid looked like:

Spoiler

cGtWdy4.jpg

Looked like someone put coffee in there...

 

Anyway after a few hours of work it's torn down, front light needs to be fastened better, i don't think it would pass inspection like this. That, tires, a bit of touch up paint and the front break and it's all ready for my brother! Yah it's not for me, even if I want to ride it 😒
You can remove the exhaust plug and update the papers to get 21KW legally, the bike is 135KG so that would be amazing fun. It's already quick from what little I have ridden xD

 


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

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The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

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"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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2 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Youre meant to push the right pedal for that

Maybe he cant reach the floor :thonk:


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41 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

So I bought another bike! 😁

 

  Reveal hidden contents

It's a 1990 Honda NSR 125R

KfHnnIN.jpg

 

It's a little ratty, needs a bit of TLC but nothing is too bad. Engine, frame and suspension is all good from what I have seen. The cosmetics, lights and tires are not the best though. Front break had no leaver and the reservoir was bad, the little window just fell out into my hand when I tapped it so that's one thing that needs replacing. Oh and this is what the rear break fluid looked like:

  Reveal hidden contents

cGtWdy4.jpg

Looked like someone put coffee in there...

 

Anyway after a few hours of work it's torn down, front light needs to be fastened better, i don't think it would pass inspection like this. That, tires, a bit of touch up paint and the front break and it's all ready for my brother! Yah it's not for me, even if I want to ride it 😒
You can remove the exhaust plug and update the papers to get 21KW legally, the bike is 135KG so that would be amazing fun. It's already quick from what little I have ridden xD

 

2 Stroke,  automatic thumbs up . Check the power valve , as it can be a pain if its not synchronised properly with the throttle . Good thing to check is the plug should be golden brown ideally ( mixture wise ) , and if you do remove the exhaust restriction you will have to jet up a few sizes . 


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Zotac GTX1080 Mini 

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5 minutes ago, Mr.Dingle said:

Maybe he cant reach the floor :thonk:

This reminds me;

I actually used to work with a dwarf who drives a matte black 335i and has to have pedal extensions.

The pedal extensions extend behind the pedal slightly, so its impossible for him to actually use 100% throttle because it hits the floor. I couldn't think of a solution at the time..


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"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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6 minutes ago, Mr.Dingle said:

2 Stroke,  automatic thumbs up . Check the power valve , as it can be a pain if its not synchronised properly with the throttle . Good thing to check is the plug should be golden brown ideally ( mixture wise ) , and if you do remove the exhaust restriction you will have to jet up a few sizes . 

Thanks for the tips! Power band is very dualsmokey with not even enough power to move the bike below 3k, very little power from 3k to 7k but once it hits that magic 7k it shoots away like a rocket xD Got any tips on the power valve? Nothing felt of when I have ridden it around. Will check sparkplug tomorrow.


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Thanks for the tips! Power band is very dualsmokey with not even enough power to move the bike below 3k, very little power from 3k to 7k but once it hits that magic 7k it shoots away like a rocket xD Got any tips on the power valve? Nothing felt of when I have ridden it around. Will check sparkplug tomorrow.

Powervalve should follow throttle opening on those models , later models got the RPM or vacuum operated power valves . There are lots of info on line how to check and adjust them , but basically it should stay closed till 5-6k RPM then open up to full position and stay open at above 8k RPM . 

 

If its lacking a lot of power down low , it could need some adjusting . Really not alot can go wrong on those engines , if Honda knows how to make anything at all , its their 2strokes . 

 

Other stuff includes opening up the engine , to inspect the bore for signs of past seizures and general engine health .  Some stuff to watch out for is wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder , it should not exhibit any more wear than the transfer port sides , otherwise it was ran too lean (more heat = piston + rings expand more and since heat transfer is un-even between the two sides , exhaust side tends to wear out quicker especially around the bridge area ) 

 

Since you said it behaves ok , a basic plug and compression test should tell you all you need to know . 


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Ryzen 7 1700  /// Noctua NH-L9X65 /// Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200PWM

ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming-ITX/ac /// 16GB DDR4 G.Skill TridentZ 3066Mhz

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8 minutes ago, Mr.Dingle said:

Powervalve should follow throttle opening on those models , later models got the RPM or vacuum operated power valves . There are lots of info on line how to check and adjust them , but basically it should stay closed till 5-6k RPM then open up to full position and stay open at above 8k RPM . 

 

If its lacking a lot of power down low , it could need some adjusting . Really not alot can go wrong on those engines , if Honda knows how to make anything at all , its their 2strokes . 

 

Other stuff includes opening up the engine , to inspect the bore for signs of past seizures and general engine health .  Some stuff to watch out for is wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder , it should not exhibit any more wear than the transfer port sides , otherwise it was ran too lean (more heat = piston + rings expand more and since heat transfer is un-even between the two sides , exhaust side tends to wear out quicker especially around the bridge area ) 

 

Since you said it behaves ok , a basic plug and compression test should tell you all you need to know . 

I think part of why it felt so sluggish down low was the very low tire pressure, probably only 10-15PSI or so along with a still kind of cold engine on grass is at least a bit of it. I think I read the power valve was operated by a servo too? I'll read some more online but engine seems fine so far :)


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

I think part of why it felt so sluggish down low was the very low tire pressure, probably only 10-15PSI or so along with a still kind of cold engine on grass is at least a bit of it. I think I read the power valve was operated by a servo too? I'll read some more online but engine seems fine so far :)

Yeah , servo , cable or vacuum operated . Should be fun once de-restricted , maybe throw a 32mm carby on it , with a boyseen rid kit ... and a different pipe to suit your riding style ... 


The Subwoofer 

Ryzen 7 1700  /// Noctua NH-L9X65 /// Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200PWM

ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming-ITX/ac /// 16GB DDR4 G.Skill TridentZ 3066Mhz

Zotac GTX1080 Mini 

EVGA Supernova G3 650W 

Samsung 960EVO 250GB + WD Blue 2TB

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23 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Yep especially if the guy you’re overtaking is an idiot and decides to try to speed up too. 

 

If you ever wondered why they make cars with 700hp for the road I’m pretty sure that’s why LOL

 

in the Miata passing someone is:

1. Get back a decent distance

2 wait for a gap

3. When you see a large gap coming, floor it

4. Stay behind in the draft as long as possible and swing out and around and then pass them 

 

It’s like so overly dramatic just to pass someone it’s stupid LOL

Not if you gut 200+ lbs out of the car! Removing the interior, gutting the dash, removing sound deadening, trunk liner, spare tire, jack, emissions equipment, removing the passenger seat and replacing the driver seat with a 9lb Ultra Shield, depowering the steering rack and removing AC, removing shipping tow hooks, removing soft top and frame and replacing with a hardtop, etc. The car not only gained power back from dropping the AC and PS, but with all the weight gone there is quite a noticeable difference in how the car picks up. 80-100+ still accelerates like a dog but up to 80 it shaved several seconds off. I'd say I could easily beat a mini van now whereas before it was the race of the century.

 

Sucks for daily driving especially in Texas summer but so worth it. Looks cool without the interior too lol


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Huge update on the 400HP built BP!

 

I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up!

 

IMG_1805.thumb.jpg.a80fb7fd7fd61afa4012fac0c0dc7baa.jpg

 

Of course, I am only $4k into a $15k build but this is a huge step and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I think the next thing I'm going to save for is the turbo manifold kit and the EFR 6758 (which is $3k by itself smh), but I really need to get my ECU soon so that might come first. My MAF sensor is failing on the old engine in the car and I can just straight up delete it with the new ECU, plus it would give me a good chance to get into tuning a bit more.


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