Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Bitter]

18 minutes ago, vetali said:

Nobody here can sell bushings so I've stopped recommending them lol.

 

You ever do a heater core in an 08 wrangler? Having fun doing one right now. I could probably do 3 Honda heater cores in the time I've spent on this thing.

I can't say I have but I've done a lot of other ones, never very fun jobs when the ENTIRE dash has to come out.

[AlwaysFSX]

36 minutes ago, vetali said:

Nobody here can sell bushings so I've stopped recommending them lol.

 

You ever do a heater core in an 08 wrangler? Having fun doing one right now. I could probably do 3 Honda heater cores in the time I've spent on this thing.

You're not supposed to fix a Wrangler silly, you trade it in for a new one that will have the same exact issues

[OhioYJ]

1 minute ago, AlwaysFSX said:

You're not supposed to fix a Wrangler silly, you trade it in for a new one that will have the same exact issues

It's just too new. Jeep is bad at electronics, you need something older with less wiring, mess for them to mess up.  

 

My 95's heater core wasn't that bad of a replacement, as far as heater core replacements go.  I have some pictures here, some are dark, as I was replacing it at midnight the night before a wheeling trip.

 

I had a 91 fox body that I would only hook the heater core up in the winter as the car ate heater cores. I got to were I could pull the dash and replace the heater core in a little over an hour total.  

[vetali]

37 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I can't say I have but I've done a lot of other ones, never very fun jobs when the ENTIRE dash has to come out.

I don't mind most dash pulls. Honda dash pulls are super easy. This one the whole HVAC box, pedal bracket, pedals, everything comes out with it. The thing I am fighting is the damn thing is too heavy for two people. Plus its a manual so the shifter is right in the way. Gonna try pulling the shifter tomorrow, getting 4 guys, and removing the top.

 

Really terribly designed. I've done plenty of Chryslers of the era. Those Ram dashes come out in like 45 minutes. This thing is just pissing me off.

[8tg]

I have been driving this for a week and I’m starting to understand why a lot of drivers are absolute dipshits on the road. Or at least part of it, definitely not the only cause.

Driving something like this you have so many of your senses just muffled by the car. I can’t hear shit, the car doesn’t make much noise, I can’t see out of it very well either. 
The only way for me to know I’m going fast, besides the obvious speedometer or the projected HUD, is hearing the turbo spool up ever so faintly. 

I don’t feel bumps in the road, I don’t hear other cars or my own car. I was going 55 in a 30 without even noticing because the feedback of “you’re going too damn fast” isn’t there.

If I was doing that in the wagon (1994 escort) I would hear the road, the car, it would be squirmy and bouncy over the smallest bumps. I drive slow as shit in the wagon because I’m extremely aware of everything going on around me with full 360 visibility and no sound dampening.

 

Its eye opening to say the least, it makes a lot more sense why there’s always some dipshit tailgating me, or passing me at 90mph, along with eating paint chips for breakfast they also just might not get the feeling of their driving.

[8tg]

Don’t get me wrong, I love the car. It drives so nice, it’s like floating around on a cloud, everything inside is intuitive and well placed, Mazda did really well on it.

But wow it is the complete contrast of a 30 year old economy car. 

[Beerzerker]

On 8/12/2023 at 8:23 PM, Bitter said:

Went for a ride in a really weird car today. Only had 3 wheels and was an air cooled flat four. It was very bad at staying on the road.

Betcha once it was up to speed it got a little light on the road......

My own stuff starts tomorrow with my S10, have to replace the clutch slave cylinder and see if that fixes it.

No leaks noted, the system simply isn't working properly as in it's barely working period - Went from a working pedal to hardly any pedal at all in just one day.
If that doesn't fix it I'll do the master cylinder as well and that should take care of it but going for the slave cylinder first since it's WAY older then the master cylinder is.

The master cylinder doesn't all that much wear on it TBH, maybe about 10,000 miles worth of wear on it since new.
Hasn't been driven alot since it was done and that's why I'm going for the slave cylinder first.

The fluid in the system is dark so that means something indeed failed (Cylinder seals/cups) and I'll have to purge all that out before replacing the slave cylinder, refilling and bleeding it.
I do have a way to bleed it out on my own too so once it's done all the air should be bled out and away I go again.

May even tackle the pitman arm while I'm at it, already have the puller and it's needs to be done anyway.
Check and adjust it's torsion bars for proper ride height and maybe even replace it's steering hoses (Both) too since one is seeping a bit of fluid ATM.
May as well while it's on the jack stands.

Only caveat is just how HOT it is outside right now...... Not gonna enjoy it too much.

Next morning EDIT:
Went out this morning to do the work and ran into problems right away as I had expected.
Wrong part so I removed the old slave cylinder and took the new one back to where I got it from (Autozone) along with the old one for comparison.

Their records, even with me telling them all the particulars showed it being a different part and I suspect it's NOT 100% their fault because trucks like mine (4.3ltr V6 - 5 speed - 4x4 truck) came with two different transmissions in them.
One was the standard duty unit and the other (Which mine is) is a heavier duty unit, namely the exact same trans used in a Z-71 V8 4x4 truck.

So....
Got the new one, brought it back and now it's too damned hot again to continue so all that time was wasted, yet I still made a little progress here.
I've also engineered a way I can completely/correctly bleed the system by myself without any special tools but will need to make one additional item to use and I can do that tomorrow.
 

[Bitter]

Brand new 289 from Jasper.

 

[OhioYJ]

8 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Brand new 289 from Jasper.

Shouldn't that be "rebuilt", well from Jasper, maybe "cobbled together", I don't think they've necessarily been known for quality anytime in recent years have they?

 

I'm more curious what this 289 is in?

[Bitter]

22 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Shouldn't that be "rebuilt", well from Jasper, maybe "cobbled together", I don't think they've necessarily been known for quality anytime in recent years have they?

 

I'm more curious what this 289 is in?

I definitely feel like their quality has been slipping the last 10 years or so. 65 Fairlane.

[OhioYJ]

49 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I definitely feel like their quality has been slipping the last 10 years or so. 65 Fairlane.

Very cool. I'm a fan of the old Fairlanes, even the old Galaxies are pretty cool. Not to mention something you don't see all over the place. 

 

My favorite though has always been the the early Cougars (technically still blue ovals)

 

 

[vetali]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

Brand new 289 from Jasper.

Ironic because those guys showed up today and I threw out all their crap. Everyone looked at me like I was insane. That overspray on the head gonna cause a leak too.

 

 

You angle the dash just right, it barely comes out. Now to put the heads back on and send it.

[Beerzerker]

3 hours ago, OhioYJ said:

Shouldn't that be "rebuilt", well from Jasper, maybe "cobbled together", I don't think they've necessarily been known for quality anytime in recent years have they?

 

I'm more curious what this 289 is in?

I've heard in recent years even with a Jasper engine to do like the rest - Open it up and double-check everything.
Used to not be like that with a Jasper but things change and Jasper, like the rest seems to have slipped.

However even with the best "things" happen but at least it didn't pop the valve keepers loose and drop the valve..... That would have been the end of it.

Sometimes concerning suppliers, they do have defects in their manufacturing too and builders like Jasper has to get their stuff (Nuts, bolts and so on) from somewhere so I'm "Kinda" hesitant to just say that was simply Jasper's fault.

At the same time they do have a warranty and I hope they'll cover it - They should, their actual fault or not.

I did however note the dark spot/shape so it looks like it was already cracked when it was installed, oil seeped in the crack while the engine was running (Making that spot dark colored internally in the stud) and the stud eventually gave up due to it's weakened state from all the rocking the rocker was doing as it normally does anyway.  

I mean we've been around the block a few times with this stuff and I've seen alot of things like this before myself but in the end, the builder is still on the hook for it.

Make 'em make it right.

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Ironic because those guys showed up today and I threw out all their crap. Everyone looked at me like I was insane. That overspray on the head gonna cause a leak too.

You angle the dash just right, it barely comes out. Now to put the heads back on and send it.

Sounds about right. How many leftover screws? Actually specifically asked Jasper and per them it's fine to lay gasket over paint. I'm not a fan, I'll clean it up but not my engine job.

2 hours ago, OhioYJ said:

Very cool. I'm a fan of the old Fairlanes, even the old Galaxies are pretty cool. Not to mention something you don't see all over the place. 

 

My favorite though has always been the the early Cougars (technically still blue ovals)

4 door, 3spd, very rough, totally not worth the money the guy is sinking into it but not our problem.

1 hour ago, Beerzerker said:

I've heard in recent years even with a Jasper engine to do like the rest - Open it up and double-check everything.
Used to not be like that with a Jasper but things change and Jasper, like the rest seems to have slipped.

However even with the best "things" happen but at least it didn't pop the valve keepers loose and drop the valve..... That would have been the end of it.

Sometimes concerning suppliers, they do have defects in their manufacturing too and builders like Jasper has to get their stuff (Nuts, bolts and so on) from somewhere so I'm "Kinda" hesitant to just say that was simply Jasper's fault.

At the same time they do have a warranty and I hope they'll cover it - They should, their actual fault or not.

I did however note the dark spot/shape so it looks like it was already cracked when it was installed, oil seeped in the crack while the engine was running (Making that spot dark colored internally in the stud) and the stud eventually gave up due to it's weakened state from all the rocking the rocker was doing as it normally does anyway.  

I mean we've been around the block a few times with this stuff and I've seen alot of things like this before myself but in the end, the builder is still on the hook for it.

Make 'em make it right.

The one thing I'll give them is that they have been excellent in taking care of warranty issues. Yes I saw that dark spot too.

 

Now the hinky part, ONLY the front two rocker studs on the head are screw in, the rest are the OE press in studs. Personally I think they need to give us a whole head, I'm not sure I trust a replacement stud. It broke at idle on the 3rd time the engine has ran. Engine hasn't been past 3,000 RPM yet even.

[vetali]

20 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Sounds about right. How many leftover screws? Actually specifically asked Jasper and per them it's fine to lay gasket over paint. I'm not a fan, I'll clean it up but not my engine job.

None. There wasn't that many screws... like maybe 16? Somehow I misplaced the brake push rod clip but Jeep had one in stock for like 2 dollars. Transfer case shift cable bushing turned to dust when I removed it. That was a 10 dollar dorman part.

 

Overspray totally causes leaks tho. BMW used to do it on their old valve covers and it'd cause a leak.

[Beerzerker]

58 minutes ago, Bitter said:

The one thing I'll give them is that they have been excellent in taking care of warranty issues. Yes I saw that dark spot too.

 

Now the hinky part, ONLY the front two rocker studs on the head are screw in, the rest are the OE press in studs. Personally I think they need to give us a whole head, I'm not sure I trust a replacement stud. It broke at idle on the 3rd time the engine has ran. Engine hasn't been past 3,000 RPM yet even.

As long as they stand behind their warranty that's the thing that matters, either by a replacement head or fixing the one you have now.
I'm like you though, it does seem odd you'd have a mix of stud types in the head and I'd point that out and maybe ask why that is. I've never heard of such in one, either they are all one type or the other from the factory.

[OhioYJ]

11 hours ago, Bitter said:

4 door, 3spd, very rough, totally not worth the money the guy is sinking into it but not our problem.

Im sure many people think the same of many of our projects. I'm sure every time I'm out in the garage working on something the neighbors are probably like "what is he doing now...."

 

Pretty sure an old FE block will fit in 65 with an old 4-speed top-loader, would be a bit more of a fun project, then a 289. However to each their own. 

[Beerzerker]

It can fit with some modifications to the shock towers and so on, with a 64-65 it's not a simple "Drop in" job.

You'd also have to beef up the suspension too due to an FE's weight, those engines are of an older design and are heavy because of it - Heavier than a 429/460 to be exact.
However everyone knows the Thunderbolts had FE 427's in them but those were specially modified cars for a specific purpose from the factory and further modified by the racing teams that had them.
 

In a later Fairlane such as a 66 or 67 it's easier to do because of the larger size of those vehicles and some of those did come with an FE engine (390 CID - 390 GT/GTA Fairlanes) and dropping in a 427 or 428 is not a big deal as long as you make sure the suspension is right for it when it's done.....
Or you find a real GT/GTA Fairlane and do an engine swap like many guys and teams did back in the day.

Easiest ones to do are the 68-70 models since those have the room and size for it period and for 68 and 69 it was an option, either a 390 or 428 could be had if you wanted one and 428's did come in the Cobra's of those years.
 

A 70 Fairlane, which is the last year of the Fairlane can have a 429/460 dropped in with the correct mounts and such because a 429 was an option in variants of that body frame/shell, (Not for the actual Fairlane model) which the Torino GT and Cobra was based on.
GT's could come with one, 70 Cobras has nothing but 429's in them, the 71 year model had almost all Cobra's with a 351 Cobra Jet (Cleveland based engine) standard.

Here's a pic of me and my old 71 Torino GT, originally a 351 Cleveland car that had a BB (.030 over 460) engine swap done back in the Summer of 88, this was taken not long after in the Spring of 89.

[Bitter]

39 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Im sure many people think the same of many of our projects. I'm sure every time I'm out in the garage working on something the neighbors are probably like "what is he doing now...."

 

Pretty sure an old FE block will fit in 65 with an old 4-speed top-loader, would be a bit more of a fun project, then a 289. However to each their own. 

Frame is rusted through and cracked where the left rear leaf spring shackle bolts on. Left frame horn is held to the body by a C clamp and an added on bolt. Other parts of the car are equally rotted but those stood out as the worst.

[Beerzerker]

41 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Frame is rusted through and cracked where the left rear leaf spring shackle bolts on. Left frame horn is held to the body by a C clamp and an added on bolt. Other parts of the car are equally rotted but those stood out as the worst.

Basically they are wanting you to fix a parts car.

Fun..... Not.

I know some places that would flat-out refuse to work on it if the frame is that bad because they could turn around if something bad happens and try to blame you with whatever happens as a result of it's condition and use.

Either them directly or a slick lawyer but probrably both if it happens.

[OhioYJ]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Frame is rusted through and cracked where the left rear leaf spring shackle bolts on. Left frame horn is held to the body by a C clamp and an added on bolt. Other parts of the car are equally rotted but those stood out as the worst.

All fixable for someone who wants to put the time in. I know a few years back I had to fix the frame on my YJ. It was starting to rust in the same spot, she was just starting to show her age. Nothing a little time in the garage with the welder couldn't take care of. 

[OhioYJ]

1 hour ago, Beerzerker said:

It can fit with some modifications to the shock towers and so on, with a 64-65 it's not a simple "Drop in" job.

Ah, so it's almost like the Mustangs, where 67 was the first year the big block would fit. I knew the Thunderbolts where pretty heavily modified, however I guess I didn't realize how heavily modified they were to get that 427 in them. 

[Beerzerker]

Just now, OhioYJ said:

Ah, so it's almost like the Mustangs, where 67 was the first year the big block would fit. I knew the Thunderbolts where pretty heavily modified, however I guess I didn't realize how heavily modified they were to get that 427 in them. 

They are alot like the Falcons of that year range, even a Windsor can be tough to get in due to things like the brake master cylinder getting in the way and so on.

My current project, a 64 Falcon Sprint Convertible (Verified by the numbers/codes as a genuine Sprint) is ongoing and maybe one day I'll have something to show with that.

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, OhioYJ said:

All fixable for someone who wants to put the time in. I know a few years back I had to fix the frame on my YJ. It was starting to rust in the same spot, she was just starting to show her age. Nothing a little time in the garage with the welder couldn't take care of. 

It's a unibody car, if that's that bad on the outside the inside over the rest of the car is as bad too. You'd have to peel the body off the spot welded C channels and build or get new C channels. Battery was held in with a block of wood and "structural shag carpet"

 

We told the guy it's not worth it, he wanted to go forward.

[Bitter]

Brake pad limbo, how low can you go?