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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

26 minutes ago, vetali said:

Maybe a pollen seasoned chicken breast. Never had a car that got this much pollen under the hood.

I've noticed this on some other modern cars, it's weird how dirty the engine bays get. I'm not sure if the dirt is just more apparent due to the sea of textured black plastic or what.

Some D shape weather seal around the perimeter might help, pretty cheap stuff by the roll from overseas.

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Not sure if this is the right place, but what are your thoughts on this sounds my engine (VQ35DE) makes when slowing down?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VL9wbWenwZyjijGzCH2BNPfkGCTgH70L/view?usp=sharing

What is actually supposed to go here? Some people put their specs, others put random comments or remarks about themselves or others, and there are a few who put cryptic statements.

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31 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I've noticed this on some other modern cars, it's weird how dirty the engine bays get. I'm not sure if the dirt is just more apparent due to the sea of textured black plastic or what.

Some D shape weather seal around the perimeter might help, pretty cheap stuff by the roll from overseas.

The hood is sealed in the front and back. I have a feeling its the fans pulling pollen from the grille. Not a huge deal but just looks ugly. My biggest issue is how the outer part of the rear spoiler and trim piece isn't sealed on the outside. So it collects dirt inside of it. When you wash it and spray downward its just kicking out debris non stop.

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2 hours ago, Computernaut said:

Not sure if this is the right place, but what are your thoughts on this sounds my engine (VQ35DE) makes when slowing down?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VL9wbWenwZyjijGzCH2BNPfkGCTgH70L/view?usp=sharing

Rod knock, timing chain slap, or a heat shield. I'd lean toward timing chain slap, chains are common for those engines but probably you should check for loose rods

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Rod knock, timing chain slap, or a heat shield. I'd lean toward timing chain slap, chains are common for those engines but probably you should check for loose rods

Why would rods cause that (out of curiosity)?

What is actually supposed to go here? Some people put their specs, others put random comments or remarks about themselves or others, and there are a few who put cryptic statements.

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Oh man... The new Aston Martin DB12 is here...

The perfect elegant supercar, and to this day STILL the supercar I would actually buy if I actually had the money.

 

 

Top-Tier Air-Cooled Gaming PC

Current Build Thread:

 

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5 hours ago, Computernaut said:

Why would rods cause that (out of curiosity)?

As the angle of the load changes from pushing to pulling from one side to the other the noise changes. Definitely cut your oil filter open and check for metal flakes and glitter.

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On 7/4/2023 at 4:57 PM, Computernaut said:

Why would rods cause that (out of curiosity)?

Normally a rod will make a rattling noise as the engine is gaining RPM's, the noise stops/goes away when you let off the gas.
Yours is making it when you let off so I doubt it's a rod issue BUT it could be a problem with a piston rocking in the cylinder bore.

Doesn't really sound like it to me but if you hear what sounds like a rod knocking BUT if does it when you let off the gas, that's when it can be a piston rocking in the bore.

I'd think your problem is timing chain related or something similar to that, don't rule out it being something in the CVT as well since it uses a chain to drive the pump.

That noise sounds a bit like mine does (Also a Nissan) except mine makes an audible groaning/whining noise all the time. Your problem, by the sound of it reminds me of a starter bendix being "Stuck", letting it grind since it's not making full engagement to the starter gear/ring but it's certainly not that at least.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
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Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

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New tires are on, went with the 245/40 just because I didn't want to deal with rubbing the inner fender.

 

PXL_20230705_212241955.thumb.jpg.980f91054309d0a0fb8fed2aab62198a.jpg

 

With the 2" drop spindles and the coilovers still preloaded for stockish suspension travel, so if I want I can drop this thing ON the tires.

PXL_20230705_211654891.thumb.jpg.4f27cc4e3e712266238fcdb8dc655515.jpg

 

Now I just REALLY need to order a 2" block kit for the rear so it doesn't look dumb 🤣 and also order the rear brembo brackets. That just wasn't a "critical" upgrade, as the rear drums are still perfectly adequate 

PXL_20230705_211701523.thumb.jpg.8d2a87db12814714caa4afad3845d739.jpg

Vaporwave: 

AMD Ryzen 7 5800x3d / Powercolor Red Devil RX 7900 XT / Gigabyte B550 Vision D-P / Kingston fury beast 32GB / WD_Black SN770 1tb / Samsung  970 evo 1tb / Corsair RM850x / Cooler Master ML360 v2 / NZXT H9 Elite / Vizio m422i-B1  / Steelseries x Destiny 2 Arctis 1/ GMMK Pro+GMMK Num Akko Lavender/ Steelseries x Destiny 2 Rival 5

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1 hour ago, Vonrottes said:

New tires are on, went with the 245/40 just because I didn't want to deal with rubbing the inner fender.

With the 2" drop spindles and the coilovers still preloaded for stockish suspension travel, so if I want I can drop this thing ON the tires.

Now I just REALLY need to order a 2" block kit for the rear so it doesn't look dumb 🤣 and also order the rear brembo brackets. That just wasn't a "critical" upgrade, as the rear drums are still perfectly adequate

I hope your alignment is *perfect* because those tires feather up really easy and get LOUD and RUMBLY.  If you can get away with summer only go summer only for it, you'll be a lot happier than you will be with performance all season tires.

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2 hours ago, Bitter said:

I hope your alignment is *perfect* because those tires feather up really easy and get LOUD and RUMBLY.  If you can get away with summer only go summer only for it, you'll be a lot happier than you will be with performance all season tires.

These are the exact same tires I ran on my G8 with no problems. 🤷‍♂️ 

Vaporwave: 

AMD Ryzen 7 5800x3d / Powercolor Red Devil RX 7900 XT / Gigabyte B550 Vision D-P / Kingston fury beast 32GB / WD_Black SN770 1tb / Samsung  970 evo 1tb / Corsair RM850x / Cooler Master ML360 v2 / NZXT H9 Elite / Vizio m422i-B1  / Steelseries x Destiny 2 Arctis 1/ GMMK Pro+GMMK Num Akko Lavender/ Steelseries x Destiny 2 Rival 5

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15 hours ago, Vonrottes said:

These are the exact same tires I ran on my G8 with no problems. 🤷‍♂️ 

I guess you're one of the few, had them on a car with rear toe just a little out and they got super loud from feathering really fast. I seem them chopped up and loud on a lot of customers cars too.

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Tires with large "Kleats" can be noisy vs a smoother tire anyway, like it is with a trail tire vs an all-season tire by tread type.
However when those big kleats start feathering, I know it's loud and doesn't take long to find out you have a problem because of it.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

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Not sure if I posted this here yet but I got a new daily driver

 

Here is it's progression

 

Stock

PXL_20220916_234540102_MP.thumb.jpg.3427e8e4d93c6f605069c9a32deb1f73.jpg

 

Lift, roof rack and light pods

 

PXL_20230126_232851172.thumb.jpg.21b8d14282c75fe2cc6f3a89d58f785e.jpg

 

Roof top tent

 

PXL_20230420_194007385.thumb.jpg.63f2bd3c473b9eddf2d351ec7d166954.jpg

 

Maxx Traxx

 

Untitled(1).thumb.jpg.d60b80176ceea4cd2435e6c4a8c0dea7.jpg

Open-Back - Sennheiser 6xx - Focal Elex - Phillips Fidelio X3 - Harmonicdyne Zeus -  Beyerdynamic DT1990 - *HiFi-man HE400i (2017) - *Phillips shp9500 - *SoundMAGIC HP200

Semi-Open - Beyerdynamic DT880-600 - Fostex T50RP - *AKG K240 studio

Closed-Back - Rode NTH-100 - Meze 99 Neo - AKG K361-BT - Blue Microphones Lola - *Beyerdynamic DT770-80 - *Meze 99 Noir - *Blon BL-B60 *Hifiman R7dx

On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

IEM - Tin HiFi T2 - MoonDrop Quarks - Tangzu Wan'er S.G - Moondrop Chu - QKZ x HBB - 7HZ Salnotes Zero

Headset Turtle Beach Stealth 700 V2 + xbox adapter - *Sennheiser Game One - *Razer Kraken Pro V2

DAC S.M.S.L SU-9

Class-D dac/amp Topping DX7 - Schiit Fulla E - Fosi Q4 - *Sybasonic SD-DAC63116

Class-D amp Topping A70

Class-A amp Emotiva A-100 - Xduoo MT-602 (hybrid tube)

Pure Tube amp Darkvoice 336SE - Little dot MKII - Nobsound Little Bear P7

Audio Interface Rode AI-1

Portable Amp Xduoo XP2-pro - *Truthear SHIO - *Fiio BTR3K BTR3Kpro 

Mic Rode NT1 - *Antlion Mod Mic - *Neego Boom Mic - *Vmoda Boom Mic

Pads ZMF - Dekoni - Brainwavz - Shure - Yaxi - Grado - Wicked Cushions

Cables Hart Audio Cables - Periapt Audio Cables

Speakers Kef Q950 - Micca RB42 - Jamo S803 - Crown XLi1500 (power amp class A)

 

*given as gift or out of commission

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Just got this a few days ago, it's a 2017 Mercedes-Benz CLA 200 AMG Business in Jupiter Red and 85000km driven. In my opinion it's one of the best looking cars, everything about it just works for me. Yesterday I parked it next to a Lamborghini Gallardo and some Maserati and I thought 'yeah, my car is still the best looking' 😀

 

auto.thumb.jpg.ece301dc73f2a6c35ae122b55e26bc3f.jpg

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4 hours ago, JR1911 said:

Just got this a few days ago, it's a 2017 Mercedes-Benz CLA 200 AMG Business in Jupiter Red and 85000km driven. In my opinion it's one of the best looking cars, everything about it just works for me. Yesterday I parked it next to a Lamborghini Gallardo and some Maserati and I thought 'yeah, my car is still the best looking' 😀

 

auto.thumb.jpg.ece301dc73f2a6c35ae122b55e26bc3f.jpg

Shame the interior on them is terrible

Needs money for car parts :P

 

System specs: Core i7 9700k, Dark Rock Pro 4 , MSI Z390 PRO, 16GB CORSAIR VENGENCE DDR4 3000, EVGA GTX 1070 FTW, Corsair AX860, Seagate 1TB, Sandisk 240GB SSD, Corsair 400c

 

My Steam Profile (from SteamDB)

 

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18 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Shame the interior on them is terrible

Did MB ever recover from their disastrous merger with Chrysler?

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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Interesting. Y’all seen this? From a little company called innengine in Spain 

 

1B375922-067F-48CA-9FD8-FA3CF653B120.webp

87704024-4C70-4447-867A-A179E919AB97.jpeg

6AE0BAE2-5315-4A7F-AED4-4D9057B2DE6C.gif

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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Opposed piston isn't new, not sure about swash plate and opposed piston combination.

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In an attempt to figure out the weird rpm inconsistency before throwing money at replacing most of the fuel system, sensors


o2 sensor will be an easy one, it’s right there, it’s $60, drop in without any struggle 

though I don’t have anti seize so I’ll have to go get some, or I do have graphite oil which can do the same thing just worse 

IMG_5628.thumb.jpeg.80314d48d1e24ea69656461cf3df456c.jpeg


throttle position sensor will be easy but it’s the other way around so it’ll be annoying to get out just a little bit

IMG_5629.thumb.jpeg.5acb8152648ad69ec03e312810df1dba.jpeg

idk what that incredibly rusty part is attached to the throttle body but it annoys me 


fuel pressure regulator is under the AC lines and that makes me want to kill

IMG_5630.thumb.jpeg.38961c51aa41ccbb00568fe05658a1bf.jpeg

why are there even ac lines here, are these even ac lines, I presume they are because they have a refill port, if that’s the case what absolute mongoloid put them through the fuel injection system 

so a $15 part is going to involve dismantling the ac

 

this is now the third time the ac has been in the way and I want to remove the entire ac system

also the VFD clock display died so I want to get a new head unit but I cannot find an adapter to drop one in without too much hassle 

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12 minutes ago, 8tg said:

o2 sensor will be an easy one, it’s right there, it’s $60, drop in without any struggle  though I don’t have anti seize so I’ll have to go get some

 

fuel pressure regulator is under the AC lines and that makes me want to kill

 

why are there even ac lines here, are these even ac lines, I presume they are because they have a refill port

Do O2 sensors not still have some anti-seize compound pre-applied? I haven't bought one in a while. They used to.

 

You posted a picture of fuel lines. The high pressure line, and the return line (again for fuel). That's not a fill port, that's the test port, to check fuel pressure. Not sure what kind of car you are working on, but that's what I see?

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49 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

You posted a picture of fuel lines. The high pressure line, and the return line (again for fuel). That's not a fill port, that's the test port, to check fuel pressure. Not sure what kind of car you are working on, but that's what I see?

That makes more sense, they look identical to a pair of AC lines that run everywhere i dont want them to.

it’s a 1994 ford escort 

50 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Do O2 sensors not still have some anti-seize compound pre-applied? I haven't bought one in a while. They used to.

The one I ordered specifically states it doesn’t come with any applied, I know most do, because I’ve handled tens of thousands of them on a pallet scale and they tend to come in boxes coated in that copper colored anti seize which gets everywhere 

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Here's a fun one for you mechanics:

 

I need a rubber hose in the following dimensions

ID: 25.3mm

OD: 32.4mm (the OD can vary by +.1 or 2mm, but the ID must be accurate)

The length should be 23.4cm, but can obviously be cut the size.

 

It's not actually for a car, but for an old typewriter whose rubber platen has turned to hard plastic over the ~100 year life span, and the replacement platen is rather frightfully priced (10x the cost of the entire typewriter) so I was hoping to get creative.

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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34 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Here's a fun one for you mechanics:

 

I need a rubber hose in the following dimensions

ID: 25.3mm

OD: 32.4mm (the OD can vary by +.1 or 2mm, but the ID must be accurate)

The length should be 23.4cm, but can obviously be cut the size.

 

It's not actually for a car, but for an old typewriter whose rubber platen has turned to hard plastic over the ~100 year life span, and the replacement platen is rather frightfully priced (10x the cost of the entire typewriter) so I was hoping to get creative.

25.4 is 1 inch

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32 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

I need a rubber hose in the following dimensions

ID: 25.3mm

OD: 32.4mm (the OD can vary by +.1 or 2mm, but the ID must be accurate)

The length should be 23.4cm, but can obviously be cut the size.

The ID is the issue. 1" ID hoses are a lot more common. It's not a huge amount larger. What if you used something like heat shrink on the roll first, then used some 1" ID hose?  I'm not real familiar with mechanics of a typewriter. Does this hose actually need to grip really good? You could put some silicone between the roll, and heat shrink, then again between the heat shrink and hose to "glue" everything together. However silicone is pretty easy to clean off, and I would consider not permanent.

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