Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[benjibooji]

5 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I’m sure @Bitter can provide a better explaination, but the full term is “Low Speed Pre-Ignition”; in a nutshell it’s fuel exploding too early/in the wrong place in the cylinders at low engine speeds

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition

Also referred to as Detonation 

[Bitter]

11 hours ago, 8tg said:

Someone’s put a lower temperature threshold thermostat in it at some point, it sits fairly cool. Though I imagine in winter I’ll have to put the oem spec one back in there.

 

I’ll look for that pressure sensor, right now it seems to be fine. It’s got 97k miles on it so it’s far from eol. Im gonna do a transmission fluid flush sometime next week just because I don’t think it’s been done recently.

Thing is it'll feel fine until it's not, low apply pressure will smoke things REALLY fast. Just put the dang valve in now, you don't even drop the pan, it's under the plug on the side cover of the trans just inside the driver side wheel well.

https://transgo.com/product-details/f4a-valve/

Ideally the whole shift kit should go in but just this valve and spring makes a massive difference in the trans just suddenly not working one day and smoking itself in about 2 blocks.

https://www.feoa.net/threads/atratb039-02-01-1991-a-t-g4a-el-4eat-low-pump-pressure.61690/

 

Also I don't think 220F was the OE temp thermostat, that's extremely hot. That sounds more like where the failsafe inside the thermostat housing opens up at.

 

[8tg]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Thing is it'll feel fine until it's not, low apply pressure will smoke things REALLY fast. Just put the dang valve in now, you don't even drop the pan, it's under the plug on the side cover of the trans just inside the driver side wheel well.

https://transgo.com/product-details/f4a-valve/

Ideally the whole shift kit should go in but just this valve and spring makes a massive difference in the trans just suddenly not working one day and smoking itself in about 2 blocks.

https://www.feoa.net/threads/atratb039-02-01-1991-a-t-g4a-el-4eat-low-pump-pressure.61690/

 

Also I don't think 220F was the OE temp thermostat, that's extremely hot. That sounds more like where the failsafe inside the thermostat housing opens up at.

 

I have ordered one:

I’m not positive on the exact temps of the thermostat, I know there’s two options I saw on autozone and there’s definitely a lower temp one in the car.

[Radium_Angel]

13 hours ago, benjibooji said:

1996 jaguar xj6

There was a '94 vanden plas v12 with about 14k miles on the clock (in mint condition) for sale around me recently.

I shudder to think about the horror lurking in 30 year old Lucas electrics...

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, 8tg said:

I have ordered one:

 

I’m not positive on the exact temps of the thermostat, I know there’s two options I saw on autozone and there’s definitely a lower temp one in the car.

192F.

Cool thing is if the engine or trans does take a shit you can fit some Mazda engines in there I believe. Higher performance ones. Sleeper 94 Escort Wagon lol.

[Beerzerker]

Just got this back together yesterday, it's still not right but better than before.
I'll keep working with it and yes, there is more to do yet here including the obligatory cleanup to be done before long.

[8tg]

Whoever had this thing before me is an idiot of the highest caliber

Why did they undercoat the whole ass thing on top of existing undercoat?

including everything in the wheel wells

there’s no super bad rust visible anywhere, just superficial stuff where the original undercoat didn’t protect

they painted the exhaust silver

literally why, it’s not even bad, you can see the actual metal on the top

The worst rust is some stuff around the rocker panels which they have fixed with tape and more spray undercoat but again, why, that’s such an easy thing to replace on this car just visually looking at it and the part cost

 

further back on the exhaust:

Nothing stands out as being super corroded, what an odd cosmetic “fix”

“gee bill, 11 wheel weights?”

just get an alignment 

I’m gonna get these rims cleaned up, new hubs, new wheel bearings, and front brakes

it makes weird squeaky noises when braking that’s either 

A) the undercoat they basically sprayed on the rotors

B) everything on the front wheels is out of alignment 

throttle body is clean and new air filter is installed, runs a lot smoother, I think I may want to get new engine mounts but they seem good enough, reviews of cars with this series of engine state they just vibrate a lot relative to other engines of their type/size and era 

[Bitter]

Looks like your outer axle boot is slinging some grease.

[benjibooji]

I had the pleasure of taking my lad to work the other day, He thoroughly enjoyed it

[Bitter]

A decal arrived and was installed today. Thus concludes today's vehicle works.

I have another decal but I'm not sure where I'll put it or if I'll even put it on the car, it's kind of gaudy.

[bcredeur97]

5 hours ago, benjibooji said:

I had the pleasure of taking my lad to work the other day, He thoroughly enjoyed it

-snip-

Looks like he had a blast! Kid in a candy store moment lol

 

Man the amount of joy you see on a little kids face when you see them hop inside a cool car is priceless 

[bcredeur97]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

A decal arrived and was installed today. Thus concludes today's vehicle works.

-snip-

I have another decal but I'm not sure where I'll put it or if I'll even put it on the car, it's kind of gaudy.

Hey the extra +2 horsepower from the sticker might get you there! 

[Radium_Angel]

@benjibooji

 

Nice to see a proper Lotus Esprit still around

[HM-2]

Deposit left on an F30 340i saloon. Huge spec car- individual Oyster interior over Estoril with pretty much everything ticked except Radar CC, sunroof, HUD and Comfort Access. FBMWSH car that's still under extended warranty.

 

M140i goes on Friday.

F30 already booked in for the MPPSK 

[Bitter]

I only understood about 2/3 of that lol.

[HM-2]

Car blue.

Interior white.

Lots of shiny things.

Will be getting a BMW warrantied 360bhp remap and cat back exhaust on receipt. 

[8tg]

mmm gross

so I learned after the fact you’re not really supposed to mess with the IAC and I broke it, so I ordered a new one that will be here tomorrow 

beyond that, spark plug time 

1-3 shouldn’t be too bad but 4 is behind a hose that I think is for the AC? Something with pressure behind it anyway

[8tg]

1-3 went fine, all 4 cylinders work (albeit with the current rough idle problem I created)

 

Besides two of the old wires ripping off at the plug and requiring anger and pliers of course

 

plug and wire 4 is probably going to result in me breaking more things, so I’ll probably hand that off to the mechanic who’s gonna do the CV axels, it’s behind what I think is a line for the air conditioning which I kinda just want to remove entirely, and the alternator

[Beerzerker]

Being an ex-Ford shop guy I don't envy you....

The plug you refer to will take either a really long pair of needle nose pliers or a specialty tool that's similar with a end that has a "Grabber" that can be used to pull the wire off the plug and pop it back on too.




Speaking of problems I'll have to pop off the carbs again since I now have all I need to get it 100%.
Over the past week I've ridden it to see how it's doing, gotten it cleaned up and it seems to run down the road just fine but still have issues at engine idle speeds so I'll have to check the carbs again.

Symptoms you ask?
Once you crack the throttle it straightens out and runs great with good power but it's like only half the cylinders are firing at dead-idle, those cutting back in once you start to open the throttle and the engine starts taking the load of moving the bike. I'm thinking one carb still has problems in the idle circuit and that shoudn't be hard to get right.
It more or less amounts to cleaning that out of any blockages that may exist and I believe I'll need to adjust the overall air/fuel ratio too, that should help.
As to pulling them again, I kinda figured this would happen but it's no big deal, these carbs are simple and easy to work on as long as you pay attention to what you are doing.
After I got the carb set I just popped them on since they were supposed to be from a bike that was running so I didn't want to dig into them if I didn't have to, plus if they came off of one already running it's a basic cleaning and checkover kind of thing to truly assess them properly, which I have now done. I did check and they looked great as they came so I was confident I could at least try them before having to tear into them, which I was hoping would not be the case but hey - It's just a thing.

No hurry or rush to do it, I'll get to it a little later on and get all that taken care of when I do.

[Bitter]

6 hours ago, 8tg said:

1-3 went fine, all 4 cylinders work (albeit with the current rough idle problem I created)

7 hours ago, 8tg said:

mmm gross

 

 

so I learned after the fact you’re not really supposed to mess with the IAC and I broke it, so I ordered a new one that will be here tomorrow 

beyond that, spark plug time 

 

1-3 shouldn’t be too bad but 4 is behind a hose that I think is for the AC? Something with pressure behind it anyway

 

Besides two of the old wires ripping off at the plug and requiring anger and pliers of course

 

 

plug and wire 4 is probably going to result in me breaking more things, so I’ll probably hand that off to the mechanic who’s gonna do the CV axels, it’s behind what I think is a line for the air conditioning which I kinda just want to remove entirely, and the alternator

To get the #1 plug wire off you can make extra room by taking the AC return line hold down loose, the line has some flex to it. If the wire is shit anyway just pull on the wire boot really hard with some long pliers while also pulling on the wire and/or cut a slit in the boot with a knife. To get the plug out a plug socket and a long extension should get in there fine. I'd highly suggest checking compression, rough idle on these can often be a low compression issue not just worn plugs.

How the hell did you break the IAC?? You just hose it out with carb cleaner and q-tip or gently poke with a blunt pokey bit any hard carbon left behind. They do burn up pretty often so that one may have been bad anyone. Avoid parts store brand IAC's, you might as well just buy them direct from China if you want that quality. Stick with OE Ford or maybe Standard branded parts for those.

I see a new radiator and that concerns me that the engine has been overheated, as I mentioned before these engines almost always drop valve seats when they've been overheated.

[8tg]

18 minutes ago, Bitter said:

To get the #1 plug wire off you can make extra room by taking the AC return line hold down loose, the line has some flex to it. If the wire is shit anyway just pull on the wire boot really hard with some long pliers while also pulling on the wire and/or cut a slit in the boot with a knife. To get the plug out a plug socket and a long extension should get in there fine. I'd highly suggest checking compression, rough idle on these can often be a low compression issue not just worn plugs.

I’ll try some methods to wiggle in there and try to get the hoses out of the way. I’m mostly doing plugs for the sake of doing plugs, doesn’t hurt, cheap parts.

18 minutes ago, Bitter said:

How the hell did you break the IAC?? You just hose it out with carb cleaner and q-tip or gently poke with a blunt pokey bit any hard carbon left behind. They do burn up pretty often so that one may have been bad anyone. Avoid parts store brand IAC's, you might as well just buy them direct from China if you want that quality. Stick with OE Ford or maybe Standard branded parts for those.

I doused it in throttle body cleaner and now the adjustment screw does nothing. I may have damaged it in some way when tapping it off the gasket with a screwdriver.

It may also need to just adjust to a clean throttle body, I don’t know for certain, a new one can’t hurt.

I got whatever I could find on autozone, just a Delphi one.

20 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I see a new radiator and that concerns me that the engine has been overheated, as I mentioned before these engines almost always drop valve seats when they've been overheated.

The new radiator is due to the presumed accident it had with the previous owner, it also has a new front bumper and one new headlight. There’s a lot of stuff in the front end that implies it drove into what I presume was another car at low speed.

I’ll toss the new IAC on tomorrow when it shows up, if that fixes the issue, all is well.

If it doesn’t, that’s when I’m just going to hand it off to a professional because im not a professional.

The car idled mostly fine before throttle body cleaning, not perfect though, adjusting the throttle cable a little helped with the wobbly throttle issue and I presumed cleaning would help with the inconsistent idle. It did not.

 

Side note, it stalled the first few times without extra throttle. Then after idling for a bit, albeit roughly, it would then start and run without the added throttle. Maybe it just needs time. I don’t think this car is new enough to need to relearn idle throttle position.

[vetali]

Sales has been going and buying EVs lately. A Tesla Model Y LR and a VW ID.4. The ID.4 was much more annoying to figure out how to use than the Tesla. The damn touch button to toggle the drivers window switch from front to rear had me stumped. Finding the mileage on the Tesla was weird. I didn't expect the Tesla's seats to be as comfortable as they were. Kinda looked like they wouldn't.

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, 8tg said:

I’ll try some methods to wiggle in there and try to get the hoses out of the way. I’m mostly doing plugs for the sake of doing plugs, doesn’t hurt, cheap parts.

I doused it in throttle body cleaner and now the adjustment screw does nothing. I may have damaged it in some way when tapping it off the gasket with a screwdriver.

It may also need to just adjust to a clean throttle body, I don’t know for certain, a new one can’t hurt.

I got whatever I could find on autozone, just a Delphi one.

The new radiator is due to the presumed accident it had with the previous owner, it also has a new front bumper and one new headlight. There’s a lot of stuff in the front end that implies it drove into what I presume was another car at low speed.

I’ll toss the new IAC on tomorrow when it shows up, if that fixes the issue, all is well.

If it doesn’t, that’s when I’m just going to hand it off to a professional because im not a professional.

The car idled mostly fine before throttle body cleaning, not perfect though, adjusting the throttle cable a little helped with the wobbly throttle issue and I presumed cleaning would help with the inconsistent idle. It did not.

 

Side note, it stalled the first few times without extra throttle. Then after idling for a bit, albeit roughly, it would then start and run without the added throttle. Maybe it just needs time. I don’t think this car is new enough to need to relearn idle throttle position.

The screw on the IAC is set from the factory, you don't mess with it. You just push the plunger aside with something that won't gouge it up and clean the seat and pintle really good then the rest of the cavity and it's passages on the throttle body. Clean the throttle body really well also, especially the plate edges and the bore where the plate rests.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-how-to-clean-replace-iac-valve-430372

[vetali]

Getting those old Fords to run right requires a PHD in necromancy.

[8tg]

I love my ghetto engine lamp

an ikea bendy usb lamp hanging from the hood

I didn’t disconnect the battery last time and that may have fucked up the IAC memory according to the internet, so before I install the new one that arrives tomorrow, I’ll leave the battery disconnected overnight 

someone fucked up the negative terminal by just clamping it shut as hard as possible (it still wiggles a little) so I just removed the cable from the clamp outright