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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

Just got back from a 200mile trip with my new (to me) 2013 Suzuki Kizashi.

Non popular opinon ahead:

 

The Asians cannot make seats for long distance travel. The Italian know how to make them, but not the Asians. Suzuki is the only Asian car I've owned where this is not the case, the seats were wonderful.

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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2 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Just got back from a 200mile trip with my new (to me) 2013 Suzuki Kizashi.

Non popular opinon ahead:

 

The Asians cannot make seats for long distance travel. The Italian know how to make them, but not the Asians. Suzuki is the only Asian car I've owned where this is not the case, the seats were wonderful.

I had a friend in high school who had one of those. He had an interesting first name -- "Dax"

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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5 hours ago, vetali said:

I had extreme contact sports on my Mazda. Those were about as aggressive as I'd go on the street. Wanted to try them on my Civic but I got rid of it before replacing the OEMs.

 

Personally I wouldn't modify a 1.5t because they make good enough street power and get great fuel economy, but I've also seen what happens when they are modified lol.

rods go through block on the tuned 1.5T's? I've been curious about that, people seem to squeeze a good bit of power out of those little engines.

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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2 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Just got back from a 200mile trip with my new (to me) 2013 Suzuki Kizashi.

Non popular opinon ahead:

 

The Asians cannot make seats for long distance travel. The Italian know how to make them, but not the Asians. Suzuki is the only Asian car I've owned where this is not the case, the seats were wonderful.

Glad to hear your quirky car is also a comfortable car. Newer Mazda's have pretty comfortable seats too, my old Mazda seat is lacking side support but is otherwise pretty comfortable. How is it otherwise? I've never had hands on experience with a late model Suzuki, just some much older ones.

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1 minute ago, Bitter said:

Glad to hear your quirky car is also a comfortable car. Newer Mazda's have pretty comfortable seats too, my old Mazda seat is lacking side support but is otherwise pretty comfortable. How is it otherwise? I've never had hands on experience with a late model Suzuki, just some much older ones.

Strong free revving engine, reminds me of my old Alfa 164 in that regards. 

AWD on the fly option and even in FWD mode (default) it's really sure footed, but in AWD you can tell the car hunkers down and is all business. The bluetooth radio required multiple people with engineering degrees to understand and connect to my phone, but in the end I got it to work.

Push button start, which is a new thing for me.

Radio controls (BT issues aside) are really logically laid out and that's fantastic. Dual-zone climate controls, also logically laid out, important controls on the steering wheel, steeping on the loud pedal revs the engine and it MOVES. I found myself going from 60 to 90 in very short order.

Very quiet inside, tomb like, rides sure-footed and despite having a tight suspension (factory) it doesn't hunt over broken roads.

I need to replace the tires tho, they are some brand I've never heard of before (lauren...or something)  and I'd like something better quality but looking over tirerack, it's filled with brands I've never seen before....any suggestions on a solid all-weather (we don't get much if any snow, but lots of rain) quality brand/tire? 

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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24 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Strong free revving engine, reminds me of my old Alfa 164 in that regards. 

AWD on the fly option and even in FWD mode (default) it's really sure footed, but in AWD you can tell the car hunkers down and is all business. The bluetooth radio required multiple people with engineering degrees to understand and connect to my phone, but in the end I got it to work.

Push button start, which is a new thing for me.

Radio controls (BT issues aside) are really logically laid out and that's fantastic. Dual-zone climate controls, also logically laid out, important controls on the steering wheel, steeping on the loud pedal revs the engine and it MOVES. I found myself going from 60 to 90 in very short order.

Very quiet inside, tomb like, rides sure-footed and despite having a tight suspension (factory) it doesn't hunt over broken roads.

I need to replace the tires tho, they are some brand I've never heard of before (lauren...or something)  and I'd like something better quality but looking over tirerack, it's filled with brands I've never seen before....any suggestions on a solid all-weather (we don't get much if any snow, but lots of rain) quality brand/tire? 

Sounds great!

Continental DWS 06 Plus are an excellent all around tire with a good sporting streak to them.

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4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

rods go through block on the tuned 1.5T's? I've been curious about that, people seem to squeeze a good bit of power out of those little engines.

Rarely. Mostly headgasket or bent rods.

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9 hours ago, Bitter said:

Continental DWS 06 Plus

And they are even reasonably priced!

Thank you

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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1 hour ago, Radium_Angel said:

And they are even reasonably priced!

Thank you

They're not the most quiet tire but they're a great all arounder with great performance for an all season tire.  With AWD and the DWS tires you'll have a great winter driving experience and have enough traction and handling to have fun the rest of the year too!

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On 4/29/2023 at 7:39 PM, bcredeur97 said:

rods go through block on the tuned 1.5T's? I've been curious about that, people seem to squeeze a good bit of power out of those little engines.

Nah, that won't happen on Stage 1. Its a Honda lol, they refuse to die, we all know this.

 

Stage 1 doesn't do much to stress the engine anyways. Better timing advance and unlocking boost on the factory turbo hardly stresses the engine at all.

 

Now Stage 2+ with an upgraded turbo pushing 350-400BHP? Now you are in serious trouble with the stock rods.

 

Stage 1 could do harm to stock internals if you literally race your car and red-line it every day, pushing maximum boost constantly. But obviously a street-driven car will never experience this. I do pulls for fun here and there but its not like I can drive like that all time.

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20 hours ago, WallacEngineering said:

Nah, that won't happen on Stage 1. Its a Honda lol, they refuse to die, we all know this.

 

Stage 1 doesn't do much to stress the engine anyways. Better timing advance and unlocking boost on the factory turbo hardly stresses the engine at all.

 

Now Stage 2+ with an upgraded turbo pushing 350-400BHP? Now you are in serious trouble with the stock rods.

 

Stage 1 could do harm to stock internals if you literally race your car and red-line it every day, pushing maximum boost constantly. But obviously a street-driven car will never experience this. I do pulls for fun here and there but its not like I can drive like that all time.

I used to think like this, but I’ve seen torque from smaller turbos shred rods at low rpm.


a lot of OEM’s limit boost at lower rpm’s for this reason 

 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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58 minutes ago, Bitter said:

LSPI

?

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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I bought a 1994 ford escort wagon, it’s dope

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6899FFF7-1C50-4CC9-B83B-4F77C0DBD0E0.thumb.jpeg.f72f912af8d90f7e11a7fc0c9dc56388.jpeg

It’s blue on blue and I love how blue it is

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it came with these dope BBS wheels that fit it very well, though I imagine tires will be hard to come by

322F7075-E05C-4268-8DB3-0FC87A708C3F.jpeg.cf39a14f3644554e4f12980d643f279e.jpeg

throttle cable was loose, which was giving inconsistent throttle at speed or over bumps

B48A56F6-8F98-4BCE-9FF9-F8E38174006C.jpeg.440f13057dfe04dd88e2adbfd7740179.jpeg

tightening it up fixed that immediately 

 

up next, brakes, wheel bearings, alignment and probably some replacement parts for stuff that’s just old, like some of the hoses

before that of course, disposables, new air filter and a proper oil change with a new filter as well

probably should get a transmission fluid flush to be on the safe side, maybe the same with the coolant

this has a 180° thermostat in it which is odd because oem is 220°

 

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Phil's S85 E46 had its first start up today. It has insane 10 to 1 equal length headers. It wasnt running properly but holy shit, this is will be insane.

 

mY sYsTeM iS Not pErfoRmInG aS gOOd As I sAW oN yOuTuBe. WhA t IS a GoOd FaN CuRVe??!!? wHat aRe tEh GoOd OvERclok SeTTinGS FoR My CaRd??  HoW CaN I foRcE my GpU to uSe 1o0%? BuT WiLL i HaVE Bo0tllEnEcKs? RyZEN dOeS NoT peRfORm BetTer wItH HiGhER sPEED RaM!!dId i WiN teH SiLiCON LotTerrYyOu ShoUlD dEsHrOuD uR GPUmy SYstEm iS UNDerPerforMiNg iN WarzONEcan mY Pc Run WiNdOwS 11 ?woUld BaKInG MY GRaPHics card fIX it? MultimETeR TeSTiNG!! aMd'S GpU DrIvErS aRe as goOD aS NviDia's YOU SHoUlD oVERCloCk yOUR ramS To 5000C18

 

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@8tg

That looks is well-kept condition, surprising for an old ford.

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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42 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

@8tg

That looks is well-kept condition, surprising for an old ford.

Someone took good care of it, Carfax shows one previous owner, the entire bottom was undercoated early on as it’s worn in places but there’s no rust 

only rust on it is in early stages around the rear doors and it still hasn’t even damaged the paint yet

everything works, just needs some stuff repaired to be comfortable on the road 

 

I like the mechanical simplicity a lot

an oil pressure sensor for my Impala is being a pain and the evap purge valve code is still coming up and I’m just done with that kind of stuff existing

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4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I used to think like this, but I’ve seen torque from smaller turbos shred rods at low rpm.


a lot of OEM’s limit boost at lower rpm’s for this reason 

 

Well Ive run Stage 1 in lots of vehicles without issues. VW GTIs, Subaru WRXs, and other Hondas. Its also already known on Honda forums that stage 1 is perfectly safe for the 1.5T stock internals.

 

Actually the only real risk is the fact you are pushing the factory turbo to its absolute limits. Now because its only 21-22 PSI its not that bad and 99% of the time there are no issues, but here and there the occasional bad-luck magnet does blow the factory turbo.

 

So really, the turbo itself is the only thing that faces any real risk under stage 1 tuning.

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On 5/2/2023 at 1:04 PM, WallacEngineering said:

Nah, that won't happen on Stage 1. Its a Honda lol, they refuse to die, we all know this.

I've seen plenty of dead Hondas.

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3 hours ago, 8tg said:

Someone took good care of it, Carfax shows one previous owner, the entire bottom was undercoated early on as it’s worn in places but there’s no rust 

only rust on it is in early stages around the rear doors and it still hasn’t even damaged the paint yet

everything works, just needs some stuff repaired to be comfortable on the road 

 

I like the mechanical simplicity a lot

an oil pressure sensor for my Impala is being a pain and the evap purge valve code is still coming up and I’m just done with that kind of stuff existing

I'm very familiar with those cars and that power train. If you overheat that engine it will drop valve seats. The trans will die at some point but there's a few things you can do to greatly prolong it's life, the pressure regulating valve always sticks in the bore. Transgo makes a valve with ribs and a stronger spring that's self reaming so it won't bind up and that will double how long the trans lasts. The thermostat is weird, it's got a thermostat but it's also got a bypass in the housing that often fails open and so the engine struggles to reach full temp when it's cold out, you either replace the housing or tap a pipe plug into the bypass to plug the bypass hole. Those engines are prone to sticking piston rings, chemical soaking and oil additives seem to do well to free them up and restore compression. The timing belt probably needs to be done, it won't bend valves and it's a pretty easy belt to change. The ignition switches are prone to fail if you use the defrost a lot, the defrost runs through the switch. Either wire it up to a relay to unload the switch, use it less, or keep a supply of switches in the car. Parts store brand ones melt the little plastic pins that close the contacts and they're worthless junk. I'm sure there's more, that's all I can think off the top of my head.

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I'm car mad and I'm lucky enough to work in the trade on cars which are well out of my reach. I do have a small collection... 

1986 ford fiesta xr2 

1990 vw golf 

1992 Toyota mr2 jdm import 

1996 jaguar xj6 executive 

2006 vw passat 

 

Work wise I'm the workshop manager at a high end custom bodyshop dealing with Ferarri's, Lamborghini's, Aston Martin's, Mclaren's and more. 

 

The bonus is i get to drive them. 

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39 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I'm very familiar with those cars and that power train. If you overheat that engine it will drop valve seats. The trans will die at some point but there's a few things you can do to greatly prolong it's life, the pressure regulating valve always sticks in the bore. Transgo makes a valve with ribs and a stronger spring that's self reaming so it won't bind up and that will double how long the trans lasts. The thermostat is weird, it's got a thermostat but it's also got a bypass in the housing that often fails open and so the engine struggles to reach full temp when it's cold out, you either replace the housing or tap a pipe plug into the bypass to plug the bypass hole. Those engines are prone to sticking piston rings, chemical soaking and oil additives seem to do well to free them up and restore compression. The timing belt probably needs to be done, it won't bend valves and it's a pretty easy belt to change. The ignition switches are prone to fail if you use the defrost a lot, the defrost runs through the switch. Either wire it up to a relay to unload the switch, use it less, or keep a supply of switches in the car. Parts store brand ones melt the little plastic pins that close the contacts and they're worthless junk. I'm sure there's more, that's all I can think off the top of my head.

Someone’s put a lower temperature threshold thermostat in it at some point, it sits fairly cool. Though I imagine in winter I’ll have to put the oem spec one back in there.

 

I’ll look for that pressure sensor, right now it seems to be fine. It’s got 97k miles on it so it’s far from eol. Im gonna do a transmission fluid flush sometime next week just because I don’t think it’s been done recently.

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6 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

?

I’m sure @Bitter can provide a better explaination, but the full term is “Low Speed Pre-Ignition”; in a nutshell it’s fuel exploding too early/in the wrong place in the cylinders at low engine speeds

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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