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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

Thoughts? Looks like new intake mani, new coils. I'm guessing burnt exhaust valve or something pushing flame at the plastic intake?

20221108_133235.jpg

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On 11/3/2022 at 10:13 AM, Voytek85 said:

Depending on the year it's difficult not to get too loud real quick with a civic. Modified K20 based cars get drone pretty easily. I would consider headers and perhaps a sportcat over a new backbox. Performance wise it's in general the better option and it comes with an improved sound track 🙂

Thanks! I have the 1.8l, so R18, does that change your advice any?

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7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Thoughts? Looks like new intake mani, new coils. I'm guessing burnt exhaust valve or something pushing flame at the plastic intake?

Looks to be normal operation of an aftermarket intake.

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1 hour ago, vetali said:

Looks to be normal operation of an aftermarket intake.

I mean I assume they replaced the intake manifold for a reason, possibly the same reason this one failed. First step, cyl 3 compression test to confirm my suspicion that it's shooting flames back into the intake manifold due to valve issue(s).

 

Also finally got my Celica out for a drive tonight. Idle issue was 1 part bad part and 1 part mechanic error. Engine light popped right on, P0340 CMP sensor problem. I set the connector on but never snapped it in place! Got that on, warmed up a little,  put $60 gas in it (fucking hell), and took it for a drive. Idle came down to around 850-800 in park and 750-730 in gear and it ran well except for one more mechanic error hiccup. I had the throttle stop backed off a little too far and the plate was jamming in the bore when I let go at WOT, got stuck a couple times and I had to punch it with my foot to open throttle back up. I think I got that sorted once I got back and re-set the TPS to work with the new throttle zero point. It's nice the next two days, I'm going to drive it to work and see about logging some data driving around and maybe getting the rear motor mount inserts installed.

As for is it faster? Well it's louder! Hard to say for sure since it's been a bit since I drove it last. It's not like I suddenly added a turbo but I think it's got a bit more torque. I'm sure the computer is still sorting out fuel trims so really can't judge it just yet. It runs tho and seems to run well.

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How long before we break 6 mins with production cars? Lol

 

man cars are so fast now. Pretty nuts 

 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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I've had a small but accumulating oil leak from the back of the engine in my Celica for a while now, finally pinpointed the leak and decided that bandaid would do for now.

messages_0(17).thumb.jpeg.c7937a672d4a4626975a1c32b5101e04.jpeg

 

THERE I FIXED IT! Dry so far, doesn't need to look good just needs to not slowly leak oil and make a slick spot on my garage floor. Ate shit on that spot once, epoxy floor+oil=near death experience. While I've never do such a repair to a customer car, my own shit is fair game. If it's dry it's not dumb! I am however ashamed of this.

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8 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

FLAWLESS, look at that perfect coverage.

Beats pulling the timing cover for something that drops about 2oz of oil on my floor per year. Enough to make a spot, not enough to justify spending like 6 hours of time fixing. I wouldn't be able to pull the cover without doing new chains and guides too. 

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23 hours ago, Bitter said:

I've had a small but accumulating oil leak from the back of the engine in my Celica for a while now, finally pinpointed the leak and decided that bandaid would do for now.

messages_0(17).thumb.jpeg.c7937a672d4a4626975a1c32b5101e04.jpeg

 

THERE I FIXED IT! Dry so far, doesn't need to look good just needs to not slowly leak oil and make a slick spot on my garage floor. Ate shit on that spot once, epoxy floor+oil=near death experience. While I've never do such a repair to a customer car, my own shit is fair game. If it's dry it's not dumb! I am however ashamed of this.

 

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On 11/11/2022 at 10:42 PM, Bitter said:

Eh gimme a break, it turns 23 in March. It'll get done right one of these days.

My latest patient turns 94 next year, a 1930 Model A with it's original drivetrain in place and all else too.

Actually it's not "My" patient but I did fix a problem it had it's owner and the shop it's at coudn't seem to fix - The engine was locked from sitting in a barn for 35+ years.

The owner didn't want to get too rough with it and the shop was being careful not to cause any damage to the engine.
As to why both were being so careful with it, not too long before it was parked it had been fully restored inside and out and yes, that included the engine as well which is why they were being so careful with it - I mean inspite of it having sat for so long it still looks good overall, the engine itself is still clean and so on.
The reason why it was parked and had sat is simple - That owner passed away and afterwards it just sat where it was, untouched by the rest of the family for all those years (Probrably competing claims for it - You know how it goes with inheritance-related stuff) but now it has a legitimate owner in the family so they started the process of getting it running again and will redo what it needs again to get it back in proper shape.

The engine aside from it being locked from sitting is still in good shape and they wanted to keep it that way so there woudn't be a need to tear it down, the trick however was in "How" that would be done without doing any harm to it.

I was in the shop and was talking to the shop owner, noticed the car sitting there and asked a few questions about it, that's when I was told about it being locked and that they weren't having much luck with it that way. 

I offered to get it unlocked and not harm the engine in the process with something like a ring breaking during the process of freeing it up and that's what I did.
Did my "Magic", got it to move a touch, went from there and did so carefully as in little by little.
Now it can spin all day with ease if it has to.

If they want I can go to the next step too, that is to see if it will hit, sputter or show any other signs of life but will only do that if they ask - After all it's not my shop or actual responsibility.
 

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

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12 hours ago, Bitter said:

Eh gimme a break, it turns 23 in March. It'll get done right one of these days.

Are those celicas an engine out to do timing covers like the tc? I had to re-do one because it leaked right away. Those engines can be out in 45 minutes lol. Followed the sealant picture in service info and no issues afterwards.

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18 minutes ago, vetali said:

Are those celicas an engine out to do timing covers like the tc? I had to re-do one because it leaked right away. Those engines can be out in 45 minutes lol. Followed the sealant picture in service info and no issues afterwards.

Engine bay is a bit tighter, I think you could do it in car but timing cover calls for 4.0 and engine 9.5, being that it's old and most of this has never been apart before probably add a few hours to either due to stuck stuff because Chicago. 6 hours for timing cover is probably fairly realistic including cleaning time and 10-12 for engine RR including stuck stuff and coolant bleeding is pretty realistic as well. If I'm doing either it's getting new chains and guides, and billet oil pump...and I have a head in the basement I've been meaning to get cams and stuff for. When the engine comes out or timing cover comes off it's not just going to be sealing the timing cover.

It took me like 4 years to get around to doing the intake manifold and doing it how I wanted took like a month. I'm very slow moving with this car, I'd rather be driving than working on it because I spend so much time with the car down when I do work on it. It's mostly an anxiety thing, fear of boning it up because I'm overly attached to it so I feel like if I'm doing something big I have to do it perfect so when I am out driving I don't fixate on all the things that could go wrong and enjoy my time in the seat.

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3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Engine bay is a bit tighter, I think you could do it in car but timing cover calls for 4.0 and engine 9.5, being that it's old and most of this has never been apart before probably add a few hours to either due to stuck stuff because Chicago. 6 hours for timing cover is probably fairly realistic including cleaning time and 10-12 for engine RR including stuck stuff and coolant bleeding is pretty realistic as well. If I'm doing either it's getting new chains and guides, and billet oil pump...and I have a head in the basement I've been meaning to get cams and stuff for. When the engine comes out or timing cover comes off it's not just going to be sealing the timing cover.

It took me like 4 years to get around to doing the intake manifold and doing it how I wanted took like a month. I'm very slow moving with this car, I'd rather be driving than working on it because I spend so much time with the car down when I do work on it. It's mostly an anxiety thing, fear of boning it up because I'm overly attached to it so I feel like if I'm doing something big I have to do it perfect so when I am out driving I don't fixate on all the things that could go wrong and enjoy my time in the seat.

Thats pretty good pay if not engine out. Honda timing cover reseals hardly pay anything. I have 2 timing chain jobs waiting on parts right now. One job is extended warranty. 4.2 hours to replace everything timing related... pfft. Since the foreman left a few weeks ago I have been on diagnostics all day... and helping others with diagnostics.

 

Have lots of people asking to take my customer pay repairs after I diagnose... but nothing as far as warranty lol.

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3 hours ago, vetali said:

Thats pretty good pay if not engine out. Honda timing cover reseals hardly pay anything. I have 2 timing chain jobs waiting on parts right now. One job is extended warranty. 4.2 hours to replace everything timing related... pfft. Since the foreman left a few weeks ago I have been on diagnostics all day... and helping others with diagnostics.

 

Have lots of people asking to take my customer pay repairs after I diagnose... but nothing as far as warranty lol.

Since where I work is so very small it's a really weird very flat team structure. I do most of the more advanced diag stuff but we both collaborate on all the work pretty closely and assistant back and forth with work or ideas or he or I will start a job and the other will finish it. We think in different ways so collaboration is beneficial to the team effort.

 

The VW 2.0 TSI went bye bye, guy doesn't have like the $12K for a dealer new engine, we don't trust used at all, and we don't know who rebuilds them. When I talked to our machine shop about the cylinder head they said "nope, those are dumpster fires we don't touch them, pretty much everything is non serviceable anyway"

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52 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Since where I work is so very small it's a really weird very flat team structure. I do most of the more advanced diag stuff but we both collaborate on all the work pretty closely and assistant back and forth with work or ideas or he or I will start a job and the other will finish it. We think in different ways so collaboration is beneficial to the team effort.

 

The VW 2.0 TSI went bye bye, guy doesn't have like the $12K for a dealer new engine, we don't trust used at all, and we don't know who rebuilds them. When I talked to our machine shop about the cylinder head they said "nope, those are dumpster fires we don't touch them, pretty much everything is non serviceable anyway"

I trust used more than rebuilt honestly. As long as you know where it came from...

But no matter what you do it's a risk. Outside of New.

I've never liked VW's small engines. too many really bad issues and they are expensive for what they are. Their bigger engines for some reason have always been better...

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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15 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I trust used more than rebuilt honestly. As long as you know where it came from...

But no matter what you do it's a risk. Outside of New.

I've never liked VW's small engines. too many really bad issues and they are expensive for what they are. Their bigger engines for some reason have always been better...

Those TSI engines have so many ways they go bad, I think I'd only trust new! Not even rebuilt. It's a nice running engine that drives well but I guess they don't last well and are super picky about maintenance.

Root of the guys issue was he bought a VW from the public auto auction lol. Don't do that.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Since where I work is so very small it's a really weird very flat team structure. I do most of the more advanced diag stuff but we both collaborate on all the work pretty closely and assistant back and forth with work or ideas or he or I will start a job and the other will finish it. We think in different ways so collaboration is beneficial to the team effort.

 

The VW 2.0 TSI went bye bye, guy doesn't have like the $12K for a dealer new engine, we don't trust used at all, and we don't know who rebuilds them. When I talked to our machine shop about the cylinder head they said "nope, those are dumpster fires we don't touch them, pretty much everything is non serviceable anyway"

Shop mood and morale is much better since the other guy left. He was definitely a shop cancer. We're trying to make some changes, slowly. Don't want to just slam a bunch of stuff on top of transitioning to a new dealership software.

 

Thats pretty spendy. We've had good luck with junkyard stuff recently. With how randomly insurance companies total rigs now days they aren't as much of a gamble. Just had to call an engine on a early civic hybrid. Junk yard motors are like 200 dollars. I offered to buy it but the customer might do the work. It has 300k but its pretty much rust free.

 

Just my short block ticket was 6.3k warranty, that didn't fix the issue. Thats why I pressed techline to do a long block.

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Trying to think of what "might as well" fixes I can do to my car while replacing the caliper.
New calipers, rotors, pads, and possibly even sort out the parking brake once and for all.
Since it's still barely stopping with the parking brake.

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1 hour ago, GlassBomb said:

Trying to think of what "might as well" fixes I can do to my car while replacing the caliper.
New calipers, rotors, pads, and possibly even sort out the parking brake once and for all.
Since it's still barely stopping with the parking brake.

Upgrade the fluid?  Replace the brake booster?  Replace lines/hoses? 

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2 hours ago, vetali said:

Shop mood and morale is much better since the other guy left. He was definitely a shop cancer. We're trying to make some changes, slowly. Don't want to just slam a bunch of stuff on top of transitioning to a new dealership software.

 

Thats pretty spendy. We've had good luck with junkyard stuff recently. With how randomly insurance companies total rigs now days they aren't as much of a gamble. Just had to call an engine on a early civic hybrid. Junk yard motors are like 200 dollars. I offered to buy it but the customer might do the work. It has 300k but its pretty much rust free.

 

Just my short block ticket was 6.3k warranty, that didn't fix the issue. Thats why I pressed techline to do a long block.

Luckily our "cancer" quit years ago! Miserable human being 100% of the time. Refused to learn anything new and was doing less and work as a result. You had to tell him exactly what to do, couldn't figure anything out for himself and didn't want to. I was so so glad when he threw that air chuck across the shop and almost hit the service writer who asked him to put some air in customer tire while he was playing on his phone and drinking coffee. I don't wish death on many but I hope COVID killed his miserable chain smoking ass.

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Rant on:

 

Okay, so I rescued a 2005 Suzuki Reno from the crusher. It's stupid, and I love it. 4 door hatchback that had been smoked in (heavily) and horked in and god knows what else. The only thing I've been unable to remove (stain-wise) is koolaid. The can has given me the opportunity to wrech again, and if I screw things up, well nothing lost.

Having said that, I'd like to find the prior mechanics and strangle them. The old phrase "beat it to fit, paint it to match" comes to mind with practically everything that I've encountered on this car.

Still, for a deeply abused/neglected GM-sourced engine, it's given me very little trouble. I wish I could improve the gas mileage however, but even when brand-new it got (at best) 30mpg on the highway...

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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1 hour ago, Radium_Angel said:

Rant on:

 

Okay, so I rescued a 2005 Suzuki Reno from the crusher. It's stupid, and I love it. 4 door hatchback that had been smoked in (heavily) and horked in and god knows what else. The only thing I've been unable to remove (stain-wise) is koolaid. The can has given me the opportunity to wrech again, and if I screw things up, well nothing lost.

Having said that, I'd like to find the prior mechanics and strangle them. The old phrase "beat it to fit, paint it to match" comes to mind with practically everything that I've encountered on this car.

Still, for a deeply abused/neglected GM-sourced engine, it's given me very little trouble. I wish I could improve the gas mileage however, but even when brand-new it got (at best) 30mpg on the highway...

If it's a stick there's probably a different trans, final drive, or top gear set that'll swap for better mpg

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27 minutes ago, Bitter said:

If it's a stick there's probably a different trans, final drive, or top gear set that'll swap for better mpg

Sadly, no, it's a slushbox (in every sense of the word) but it's a solid trans, no slipping or anything like that. At 167k miles, given the condition of the rest of the car, I suspect it's not the original auto trans

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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3 hours ago, Bitter said:

Luckily our "cancer" quit years ago! Miserable human being 100% of the time. Refused to learn anything new and was doing less and work as a result. You had to tell him exactly what to do, couldn't figure anything out for himself and didn't want to. I was so so glad when he threw that air chuck across the shop and almost hit the service writer who asked him to put some air in customer tire while he was playing on his phone and drinking coffee. I don't wish death on many but I hope COVID killed his miserable chain smoking ass.

Luckily those guys are going the way of the do-do, or just become parts replacers for us diagnostic guys. Though I notice the recent generation of young guys are fitting that role better. They are always salty about pay, don't do training, have very high comeback ratios. They struggle heavily with diagnostics because they see us actually diag something in 5-10 minutes due to experience and are like "I can beat that!" while loading the parts canon.

 

The previous guy set the precedent for rushing through work to get more work, while getting a very high comeback ratio. He was a fast worker regardless, but I've caught some really fucked up shortcuts hes done. He could knock out re-rings on VCM J series in like 4 hours. I was like, yeah okay.... he was doing it when they were doing them constantly. It was just experience. I am pretty sure I caught him doing rings only on the misfiring cylinder. Had an Odyssey come in with a misfire. Pulled plug and it was oil fouled. About called a re-ring, looked at service history and it had already been done by him. But a different cylinder on the same back bank. Waiting for it to come back in for a misfire again before I can really investigate though. We put a new plug in it for the meantime.

 

It affected the other high level guy we have a lot too. He'd try to keep up and get a lot of comebacks. Just in the two weeks the other guy has been gone, hes slowed down a lot but his quality of work has gone up a ton. Thats ultimately my goal is to reduce competition and rushing for more hours and improve quality and reward people for quality work.

 

That and cleaning up the shop. Its a mess right now. After that its the special service tool inventory which will be sooo much fun.

5800X3D / ASUS X570 Dark Hero / 32GB 3600mhz / EVGA RTX 3090ti FTW3 Ultra / Dell S3422DWG / Logitech G815 / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2021 Razer Blade 14 3070 / S23 Ultra

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