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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

2 minutes ago, Computernaut said:

So, car people, I have a question:

Is there a limit to how many RPM an internal combustion engine can run at? What would enforce that maximum?

Its whatever the acceleration limits of the materials are for a given mass pretty much. Rods/pistons break apart at a certain point. 

 

also valves not closing fast enough can be a problem too 

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22 minutes ago, Computernaut said:

So, car people, I have a question:

Is there a limit to how many RPM an internal combustion engine can run at? What would enforce that maximum?

13 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Its whatever the acceleration limits of the materials are for a given mass pretty much. Rods/pistons break apart at a certain point. 

 

also valves not closing fast enough can be a problem too 

7 minutes ago, Benji said:

The ~5500-6000rpm max on a diesel engine are not an accident. The diesel doesn't burn down fast enough for the engine to rev higher, otherwise it would drown I think. At least I'm sure that this is the reason for it.

On petrol or CNG engines, not so much. After all Formula One and motorcycle engines regularly go 10000+rpm without issues.

add desmodromic valves to a petrol engine and it revs even easier hence why ducatis have a redline past 15k rpm

but basically its dependent on the materials and the size of the parts 

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On 1/30/2021 at 8:14 PM, the gamer that is bad said:

 

are they manuals because i only have manual transmissions 

manual is the transmission itself, but yes, as an owner of a c10, most of them already have a stick installed, and if they don't it's easy since there's only a plate of steel separating the tranny from the cab. i would try and fix everything you can on the motor before install, check for oil leak on the pan and whatnot, so you don't have to yard the engine out or work under the truck later.

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2 hours ago, Computernaut said:

So, car people, I have a question:

Is there a limit to how many RPM an internal combustion engine can run at? What would enforce that maximum?

 

 

until that happens

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13 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

Or maybe, just maybe, it might be because the USA is a completely different market than the rest of the world. And you lucky sods got the E60 M5 with a manual and no one else did. But BMW is on a different level of brain injury anyway.

i do acknowledge this, but that's why today they just make car plants here

13 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

Also, importing to the USA is probably an expense Lotus didn't want, at a time, since they were (and still are to a point) a small company. GM could have brought the VX220 overseas but for some reason they didn't? Idk, mixing those cars with the big hunky SUVs y'all get would be interesting.

i think that because usa just has so many god damn laws regarding emissions and crash safety, that we just don't get the car

 

13 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

Where tf did the Civic come from in the context? I'm confused

the eg6 never came to the states, just the 5th gen of civic

EDIT: also i'm pretty sure a turbo yaris would make the emissions, considering they are little hatch, 1.5 liter turbo, just here america decides to make a "reason" like too loud or crash not safe. yea sometimes its literally a problem like crappy airbags. But its so damn anooying when the whole world gets a car, butttt the US

the yaris is just a example

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So, I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo (nee Honda Passport)

It's stupid, quirky, generally useless and I love it dearly.

But the headlights, while the enclosures are new, are still ~20 year old tech and are kind of naff.

 

I know about HID lighting, but this needs some kind of conversion/modification to work.

 

Is there an LED drop-in replacement to the traditional bulbs, or are there just better traditional bulbs out there that I am unaware of?

 

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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4 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Is there an LED drop-in replacement to the traditional bulbs

NO!

Quote

or are there just better traditional bulbs out there that I am unaware of?

Yes! What type does it take?

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1 minute ago, Bitter said:

NO!

Yes! What type does it take?

Not a damn clue (TBH, I haven't looked into the nitty gritty details as of yet on bulb types, was just curious if I could get a drop-in LED or something)

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical/headlights---fog-lights/headlight-bulb/1395fe3e34c6/v/a/1317/automotive-suv-2002-isuzu-rodeo-sport

 

Not totally certain what you mean by "what type does it take"

Form factor, wattage, make?

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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31 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Not a damn clue (TBH, I haven't looked into the nitty gritty details as of yet on bulb types, was just curious if I could get a drop-in LED or something)

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical/headlights---fog-lights/headlight-bulb/1395fe3e34c6/v/a/1317/automotive-suv-2002-isuzu-rodeo-sport

 

Not totally certain what you mean by "what type does it take"

Form factor, wattage, make?

Is it a H7? H4? 9012? HB3? 194? 921?

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9 hours ago, Bitter said:

Is it a H7? H4? 9012? HB3? 194? 921?

9003 it seems

EDIT

http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/H4_9003.pdf

H4 and HB2 also seem to be interchangeable with 9003

 

BTW, you had a rather emphatic "NO!" on the LED bulb part, but it looks like LED bulbs do exist for this car, is there a reason you are against the idea?

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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Anyone know a good place to get cab corners for a mid 60's (65) IH pickup truck?

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49 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

9003 it seems

EDIT

http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/H4_9003.pdf

H4 and HB2 also seem to be interchangeable with 9003

 

BTW, you had a rather emphatic "NO!" on the LED bulb part, but it looks like LED bulbs do exist for this car, is there a reason you are against the idea?

If you want to be the asshole blinding yourself and everyone else with what's basically a sawed off shotgun of light the go ahead I guess.

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1 minute ago, Bitter said:

If you want to be the asshole blinding yourself and everyone else with what's basically a sawed off shotgun of light the go ahead I guess.

Ah, I was unaware of this "side effect"

So, sticking with standard halogen bulbs, any suggestions?

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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2 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Ah, I was unaware of this "side effect"

So, sticking with standard halogen bulbs, any suggestions?

I'll look around tonight, also if you can post a photo or link to your headlights showing them from a few angles there could be other options depending on how much you want to spend.

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12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I'll look around tonight, also if you can post a photo or link to your headlights showing them from a few angles there could be other options depending on how much you want to spend.

Didn't want to spend more than replacement bulbs.

Don't worry about it, it's not critical

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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1 hour ago, Radium_Angel said:

Ah, I was unaware of this "side effect"

So, sticking with standard halogen bulbs, any suggestions?

I like philips crystalvision ultra’s they only last like a year or so though 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

I like philips crystalvision ultra’s they only last like a year or so though 

A year is fine, I'll look into them

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

I like philips crystalvision ultra’s they only last like a year or so though 

A year of life is awful, oh my god.

.

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6 hours ago, DriftMan said:

Why not getting a regular M3? There are few ones for 20k-30k euros here in Spain

Regular M3s are sold in the US as well; I'd rather just buy one here. The problem is that most of the ones that you will see on the market are absolutely trashed.

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2 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

A year is fine, I'll look into them

Those would be a decent place to start, halogen bulbs do lose brightness as the filament ages so one that's high hours will be a lot dimmer. Luckily with 9003/H4 there's a lot of market still. Something else absolutely critical to look at, especially with an older vehicle, is voltage drop to the lamps. You might find with the low beams lit they're only seeing 11 or 12 volts out of the 14.5 the alternator is supplying which causes a substantial decrease in brightness (but a boost in bulb life). Check voltage drop with the current bulbs, if you have more than a total drop of 1 volt on positive and ground then you need to do some work there. You can preview this by jumping power and ground direct off the battery to the bulbs to see them at full brightness. Also be sure to inspect the lamp bowl above the bulb for damage to the reflective coating, as that will also drastically reduce light output.

 

I did a battery harness and H4 sealed beam conversationn on a 91 Capri for someone, just swapping to superior EU H4 optics did a lot of good but the difference between the roughly 11.5 volts she had at the bulbs vs the full battery voltage was amazing. Easily added another 50% to the light output!

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2 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

A year of life is awful, oh my god.

takes me 30 seconds to change bulbs in the miata lol 

 

it's literally no worse than a ceiling fan

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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8 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

takes me 30 seconds to change bulbs in the miata lol 

 

it's literally no worse than a ceiling fan

Effort that shouldn't have to be spent though, bulbs should last at least a couple of years.

.

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3 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Effort that shouldn't have to be spent though, bulbs should last at least a couple of years.

Yeah I have to agree with this, just because something is easy to change doesn't mean that it should have a shorter life expectancy.

Main Gaming PC (new): HP Omen 30L || i9 10850K || RTX 3070 || 512GB WD Blue NVME || 2TB HDD, 4TB HDD, 8TB HDD ||  750W P2 ||  16GB HyperX Black DDR4

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Cooling: EK XRES D5 100mm || Alphacool ST30 280mm w/ Vardars || Alphacool ST30 240mm w/ Vardars || Swiftech 3/8 x 1/2'' Lok-Seal Compressions || Swiftech EVGA Hydrocopper Block || Primochill Advanced LRT Orange || Distilled Water

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Peripherals: 3x U2412M (5760x1200), 1x U3011 (2560x1600) || Logitech G710 (Cherry Blues) || Logitech G600 || Brainwavz HM5 with @Gofspar Mod 

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9 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Effort that shouldn't have to be spent though, bulbs should last at least a couple of years.

 

5 minutes ago, arnavvr said:

Yeah I have to agree with this, just because something is easy to change doesn't mean that it should have a shorter life expectancy.

Higher output bulbs have shorter lives, the only way to get more light from roughly the same power with a filament is to run it hotter which means it doesn't last as long because you have to make it thinner to run hotter. You can tweak the package size (smaller),the pressure (higher) and the filament shape (thinner) to increase output marginally. Having higher precision construction helps out too. The biggest bump is from just getting that metal hotter. Hotter=fragile.

 

 

Also, @Radium_Angel
watch out for "high wattage" bulbs. Often they run A LOT hotter and draw A LOT more power but don't make proportionally more light for that increase in power and heat. In plastic housings they'll nearly always cause damage over time and they will damage stock wiring and plastic bulb holders. Blue coated bulbs are also just about useless too. Think about what color metal glows and how only letting blue out if there is going to work out lol.

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