Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[bcredeur97]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

If the resistor is burnt it's probably because the blower motor is failing and drawing too much current, replace both parts to make sure it's fixed once. Your problem could be a blower but also check the connector to the motor, might just be that hitting bumps is making a weak connection to it or the connection is bad and it's barely getting enough power to spin.

Why do they use resistors for them things? PWM wasn’t a thing back then? Just seems wasteful 

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Why do they use resistors for them things? PWM wasn’t a thing back then? Just seems wasteful 

Pretty much, some cars do use PWM but those fail too. Takes a bigass transistor to handle a constant 30 amp motor and potentially peaks of 40 amps. Has to be well heat sinked and cooled. Resistor boards are a lot cheaper, simpler, don't need software or microcontroller to run them. Way less expensive. Also needs less cooling and when it fails is cheaper to replace and simpler to make replacement parts of good quality.

[vetali]

7 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Why do they use resistors for them things? PWM wasn’t a thing back then? Just seems wasteful 

Thing is way too old for a PWM transistor. Those started becoming normal in the late 2000s.

[Radium_Angel]

On 2/2/2021 at 9:59 AM, chaozbandit said:

Massive pogs

Huh, I didn't think vettes were popular in Japan...

[sub68]

2 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Huh, I didn't think vettes were popular in Japan...

me too

maybe modern day japan is open to American cars (japan sees cars as inefficient on space and gas guzzlers)

SAO 2 line that is useful

[jagdtigger]

On 2/2/2021 at 8:24 PM, Bitter said:

Also needs less cooling

I think its the other way around, resistors generate a crap-ton of waste heat compared to a switching transistor*......

[chaozbandit]

8 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Huh, I didn't think vettes were popular in Japan...

They're not, but Daigo wanted to drift something unique. D1GP still isn't super popular for it though.

 

Anyways it's an ex-GT300 racecar vette with a near 1:1 PWR.

 

http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/03/daigo-saito-d1-corvette/

[ED 209]

Hello Guys,

 

 

I have a quick troubleshooting question for you, My car is a 15 years old Daihatsu,

 

Its been almost a year that my car steers a tiny bit to the left when stopping and this happens even if I let the car stop on its own without applying the brakes. When coming to stop after the car steered to the left on its own and I start moving forward it steers a tiny bit to the right like there is torque twist but my car is far from powerful lol . This happens very rarely that I even forget when has the last time it happened, so I lived with it. Apart from this the car drives straight when you take your hand off the steering wheel.

 

Now its been like a month that the car vibrates when I apply the brakes ( You can feel it in the brake pedal and on the steering wheel ) and it seems like it brakes in steps of on-off-on-off and not smoothly. Again this issue is not that evident but it happens consistently every time. Also it doesn't seem to effect the braking distance but it does trigger my OCD.

 

Now I assume that the problem with the car steering left and right has to do with the ball joints in the steering arms and the issue with the vibration when braking is maybe wrapped brake disc rotors ( but the discs are 3 years old )

 

Could the 2 problems be linked and traced to just one cause ? what do you think ? Also can you please give me a very rough estimate of the repair cost so I know what to expect ?

 

 

Thank you for your time

[Monkey Dust]

3 hours ago, ED 209 said:

Hello Guys,

 

 

I have a quick troubleshooting question for you, My car is a 15 years old Daihatsu,

 

Its been almost a year that my car steers a tiny bit to the left when stopping and this happens even if I let the car stop on its own without applying the brakes. When coming to stop after the car steered to the left on its own and I start moving forward it steers a tiny bit to the right like there is torque twist but my car is far from powerful lol . This happens very rarely that I even forget when has the last time it happened, so I lived with it. Apart from this the car drives straight when you take your hand off the steering wheel.

 

Now its been like a month that the car vibrates when I apply the brakes ( You can feel it in the brake pedal and on the steering wheel ) and it seems like it brakes in steps of on-off-on-off and not smoothly. Again this issue is not that evident but it happens consistently every time. Also it doesn't seem to effect the braking distance but it does trigger my OCD.

 

Now I assume that the problem with the car steering left and right has to do with the ball joints in the steering arms and the issue with the vibration when braking is maybe wrapped brake disc rotors ( but the discs are 3 years old )

 

Could the 2 problems be linked and traced to just one cause ? what do you think ? Also can you please give me a very rough estimate of the repair cost so I know what to expect ?

 

 

Thank you for your time

It could be several things. Possibly one of the front brakes is sticking on slightly causing the car to pull to the side, and has also caused the disc to heat up and warp. Or the issues could be unrelated. Possibly a wheel bearing, but that would likely be quite noisy. Might be as simple as the wheel alignment being out and your brakes being worn. Sorry I can't take a guess at the cost though.  

[FakeFBI]

i just found this forum, but to evreyone here, should i just blab about cars?

if yes boom

i have this question, what honda engine should i shove in a 1998 civic ex, it already has a d16y8, but im looking for mega revs and manual transmission?

[Bitter]

9 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

I think its the other way around, resistors generate a crap-ton of waste heat compared to a switching transistor*......

Maybe but they're easier to cool, just stick the wires in the air stream. The transistors need a big extruded aluminum heat sink that costs a lot of money to make vs a PCB with some little coiled wires on it. And the rest of the system overall is more expensive. The very super small gain in efficiency isn't worth the cost for fossil fuel vehicles, PWM blowers are usually only for cars with auto climate control where they need more than a few blower speeds and want to be able to softly fade blower speeds up and down to make it nicer.

[jagdtigger]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

transistors need a big extruded aluminum heat sink

Depends on the setup, as a liniear regulator yes. When used to drive the motor in PWM no.

[Bitter]

5 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

Depends on the setup, as a liniear regulator yes. When used to drive the motor in PWM no.

Well go let Ford and Toyota know that I guess. This one heat sink is cast but whatever, still a much larger and more expensive part (times millions of vehicles) than something like this would be. Sure, you only get 4 or 5 blower speeds but that's not really that big of a deal.

 

[vetali]

Most the ones I have replaced do have aluminum heatsinks. They get very hot. If you have it out of the heater box running and you touch it, you'll get burned.

[bcredeur97]

prob because it's only 12V(well really 14-15V I guess) and to move that much air at 12V you need a crap load of amps.

Electricity is weird. more voltage makes it easier to move energy around

[vetali]

1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

prob because it's only 12V(well really 14-15V I guess) and to move that much air at 12V you need a crap load of amps.

Electricity is weird. more voltage makes it easier to move energy around

Yeah most blower motors run at like 20-25 amps, 30 amp fused. Thats 325 watts being controlled at 13 volts. A lot of power to PWM.

[jagdtigger]

4 hours ago, Bitter said:

Well go let Ford and Toyota know that I guess.

A picture wont tell me method of oeration, but the part number on the other hand. MJ11028G, a darlington transistor made for amplifier applications......   Just for reference this is a 360W switching lab PSU:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qjLx_HsKUQ

 

Yep, absolutely tiny heatsink.......

[ED 209]

14 hours ago, Monkey Dust said:

It could be several things. Possibly one of the front brakes is sticking on slightly causing the car to pull to the side, and has also caused the disc to heat up and warp. Or the issues could be unrelated. Possibly a wheel bearing, but that would likely be quite noisy. Might be as simple as the wheel alignment being out and your brakes being worn. Sorry I can't take a guess at the cost though.  

 

 

 

Well now with the correct tire pressure ( 2.2 - 2.3 bar ) the issue is still kinda there but its way better night-day difference. The weird thing is that as always ( in my case ) the rear tires were the ones that really needed air the front where more or less OK. Last air top-up was  09-01-2021.

 

The front tires are near the end of their life and worn down way more than the rear since the Daihatsu is front wheel drive. The rear tires have almost no wear since they just follow the front tires BUT they tend to lose air quicker than the front. If I remember correctly the tires are 5 years old, I will have to check with what is printed on the tires to verify.

 

Now I guess I need new tires,  wheel balancing and alignment. This makes more sense than my previous assumption. What do you think ?

 

 

 

[bcredeur97]

3 hours ago, ED 209 said:

 

 

 

Well now with the correct tire pressure ( 2.2 - 2.3 bar ) the issue is still kinda there but its way better night-day difference. The weird thing is that as always ( in my case ) the rear tires were the ones that really needed air the front where more or less OK. Last air top-up was  09-01-2021.

 

The front tires are near the end of their life and worn down way more than the rear since the Daihatsu is front wheel drive. The rear tires have almost no wear since they just follow the front tires BUT they tend to lose air quicker than the front. If I remember correctly the tires are 5 years old, I will have to check with what is printed on the tires to verify.

 

Now I guess I need new tires,  wheel balancing and alignment. This makes more sense than my previous assumption. What do you think ?

 

 

 

I’d imagine the one in the car is prob a bit overkill since it’ll be in a tough environment and has to work 24/7. 

 

(remember that inside a car can be 150F on a hot summer day, and that’s when ppl crank the fan speed) 

[Monkey Dust]

8 hours ago, ED 209 said:

 

 

 

Well now with the correct tire pressure ( 2.2 - 2.3 bar ) the issue is still kinda there but its way better night-day difference. The weird thing is that as always ( in my case ) the rear tires were the ones that really needed air the front where more or less OK. Last air top-up was  09-01-2021.

 

The front tires are near the end of their life and worn down way more than the rear since the Daihatsu is front wheel drive. The rear tires have almost no wear since they just follow the front tires BUT they tend to lose air quicker than the front. If I remember correctly the tires are 5 years old, I will have to check with what is printed on the tires to verify.

 

Now I guess I need new tires,  wheel balancing and alignment. This makes more sense than my previous assumption. What do you think ?

 

 

 

It would be a good place to start. New tyres and alignment can really transform how a car feels.

[iDeFecZx]

22 hours ago, ComputerBuilder said:

i just found this forum, but to evreyone here, should i just blab about cars?

if yes boom

i have this question, what honda engine should i shove in a 1998 civic ex, it already has a d16y8, but im looking for mega revs and manual transmission?

either a B16 or a K20A

[Bitter]

17 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

A picture wont tell me method of oeration, but the part number on the other hand. MJ11028G, a darlington transistor made for amplifier applications......   Just for reference this is a 360W switching lab PSU:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qjLx_HsKUQ

 

Yep, absolutely tiny heatsink.......

Ok? Benchtop PSU isn't a blower speed controller? Cars are about profits, if you can use a cheaper part and it's safe and customers don't care then you use a cheaper part. Resistor boards are cheap and work well for blower speed control. Electricity in a gas vehicle isn't a big deal since there's already a loss from the gas to alternator so a little more loss from a hot resistor card to run blower speeds isn't a big deal. What is a big deal is when you're building 2 million cars and one part costs you $1.50 and the other part costs you $5.75.  $850,000,000 is a lot of money, if you're making a low margins vehicle like a small car, small truck, utility van, etc having 5 blower speeds is perfectly acceptable. When you're moving up to a larger profit vehicle like a luxury car/suv then having a variable speed blower with a controller is expected now and you'll make up that expenditure on a higher markup. Arguments about efficiency aren't really at play with non electric vehicles since electricity is a byproduct and not what moves the vehicle. Moving from a resistor card to a transistor control is going to be like...an immeasurable benefit in miles per gallon. You have a peak thermal efficiency of 25-30% at the top end for gas cars on the road, alternators are in the area of 60% give or take 10% depending on model/type. Increasing electrical efficiency on gas vehicles doesn't give efficiency gains like it would for an electric vehicle and is rarely worth the increased costs. I can make an example of myself, I converted all the exterior and some of the interior lighting on my 1998 Mazda 626 to LED or HID. 35W HID ballasts draw about 40-45W (from 55W each low beam), LED exterior lighting went from a peak of over 125W for brake lights (5 lamps at about 25W each on brake) to a total of about 50W of LED on brake light and from about 75W on tail light to 30W on tail lights, turn signals are a little weird because not a steady load but those are in the same range of gains, plate lights were 5W now probably in the fractions of a watt, dome light went from about 25W to under 2W. I track my gas mileage on most fill ups on this vehicle. Since changing over the lighting I've seen exactly zero gains in gas mileage. I do however see steadier voltage and a smoother idle with less alternator draw.

[jagdtigger]

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Benchtop PSU isn't a blower speed controller?

No but as the name implies it reduces the source voltage via switching. Pretty similar to PWM which also uses the transistor as a simple switch.

[Bitter]

5 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

No but as the name implies it reduces the source voltage via switching. Pretty similar to PWM which also uses the transistor as a simple switch.

My snow blower is similar to my car. Both have electric starters and both burn gasoline and both have at least 2 wheels.

[bcredeur97]

didn't mean to cause a stir over blower motors, lol.