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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

Just now, PandaCopyRight said:

my subtle is not as subtle as your subtle ?

My definition of subtle is quite genuine. It's why I don't really consider the SS a sleeper even though the general consensus is that it is quite sleeper-y. See one in Red Hot 2 and you'll know what I mean.

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So the civic needed new front control arm bushings. Whatever... not that expensive and they are only attached at 3 points on the car right? So not that hard to change.

 

so I go to change the passenger side one out first... everything comes undone then I get to the ball joint. Nut on the ball joint comes out fine. Didn’t separate from the arm easily tho. So whatever I’ll get a hammer and bang on it a little right? 

 

An hour later I gave up hammering this thing is not separating! What the heck. 

 

So I go get one of those ball joint separators early this morning thinking “ah having the right tool is awesome it’ll pop right out”. It didn’t. The threads were coming off the tool and the ball joint stud was starting to bend a bit that thing is in there so good. 

 

WHAT THE HECK. Did someone weld it in there? Things don’t even get that rusty here... 

 

so I guess now I have to buy an entire knuckle with a ball joint since I don’t have a press and don’t want to press anything because it’s a massive pain. And remove the whole knuckle and control arm as a unit then move all the parts over to the one I get and assemble it. 

 

Im so mad right now. 

 

@Real_PhillBert when the big dewalt impact decides it can’t tighten or loosen any further it just stops. Just FYI for when you actually find something that is so tight it can’t actually do it. I almost got the separator tool stuck it got so tight and it wouldn’t loosen it lol 

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3 minutes ago, Dan Castellaneta said:

My definition of subtle is quite genuine. It's why I don't really consider the SS a sleeper even though the general consensus is that it is quite sleeper-y. See one in Red Hot 2 and you'll know what I mean.

these are quite sleeper-y

image.png.8e7e6384541d192f99d7ce89d9a61230.png

people who dont know anything about them think they are boring A6 avants :D 

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10 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

these are quite sleeper-y

image.png.8e7e6384541d192f99d7ce89d9a61230.png

people who dont know anything about them think they are boring A6 avants :D 

They are boring a6 avants

Just very fast boring a6 avants

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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14 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

They are boring a6 avants

Just very fast boring a6 avants

they are seriously fast 

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19 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

they are seriously fast 

Problem with RS audis that I've found is it just seems their main focus is to go as fast as possible and as easily as they can in a straight line.

The RS3 400 I got to drive is definitely one of the better cars I've driven but its also relatively boring, never have i driven something thats past the 120 mark with very minimal input from me and I imagine the RS6 is pretty much the same.

 

I'd still own either of them tho 

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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1 minute ago, iDeFecZx said:

Problem with RS audis that I've found is it just seems their main focus is to go as fast as possible and as easily as they can in a straight line.

The RS3 400 I got to drive is definitely one of the better cars I've driven but its also relatively boring, never have i driven something thats past the 120 mark with very minimal input from me and I imagine the RS6 is pretty much the same.

 

I'd still own either of them tho 

thats audi for ya
making going fast effortless :D 

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2 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

thats audi for ya
making going fast effortless :D 

Honestly it even made the DB9 I went out in prior feel like a boat in comparison

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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1 minute ago, iDeFecZx said:

Honestly it even made the DB9 I went out in prior feel like a boat in comparison

now that is impressive 

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2 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

now that is impressive 

I put that down to the gearbox being slow and jerky in the aston. Didnt seem to know what it wanted to do but once it found the gear it needed it didnt half take off. Plus the guys driving reminded me of someone whod never driven a manual car, except we were in an auto . . .

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Impressive. Is it just a filler or does it actually polish out the scratches and marring?

It's more of a polish and protectorate. There are some spots on my car that it can't remove, due to physical damage, but overall it has reduced the amount of swirls/scratches a lot.

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I was doing an oil change and tire rotation today...

 

 

 


20190817-133025.jpg
 

 

 

I guess I'm buying new tires today... and an alignment.

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Bold tactics

 

 

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On 8/8/2019 at 5:19 PM, warmmilk said:

with a leak in my AC system...

sometimes you needs to eek out every last ounce of cooling you can for a track car... removing the AC condenser allows air to get to the radiator easier.

 

but if you can get away with having AC on your track car, its the best thing ever.

or with cars that split the radiators like a lot of civics, will give you the ability to fit a much bigger one in.

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1 hour ago, GDRRiley said:

or with cars that split the radiators like a lot of civics, will give you the ability to fit a much bigger one in.

Just add multiple radiators /s

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7 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

So the civic needed new front control arm bushings. Whatever... not that expensive and they are only attached at 3 points on the car right? So not that hard to change.

Did you hit it with the separator putting pressure on the ball joint? Usually that knocks them out easy. Though the last time I used a ball joint separator was back in college. Ridgelines and Pilots are a pain to separate. They are in there good, honda tight. 

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19 minutes ago, vetali said:

Did you hit it with the separator putting pressure on the ball joint? Usually that knocks them out easy. Though the last time I used a ball joint separator was back in college. Ridgelines and Pilots are a pain to separate. They are in there good, honda tight. 

No. Current thought is since I still had the control arm installed, just bolts loose that it may not have been able to push the arm down for some reason and may have been trying to push up against the strut. Seems kinda unlikely tho... I would of thought it would of came out with a huge impact going at the ball joint separator... 

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7 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

No. Current thought is since I still had the control arm installed, just bolts loose that it may not have been able to push the arm down for some reason and may have been trying to push up against the strut. Seems kinda unlikely tho... I would of thought it would of came out with a huge impact going at the ball joint separator... 

Not really. Usually the metal will give before it breaks free. Need to hit it with pressure on it. Pitman arms on trucks are like this. You'll break the tool before it even moves a tiny bit without hitting it. 

 

Talked to a salesman at work today about the 2020 hatchback. They said they'd do a straight across trade with 1 dollar/mile driven on my current one if I was serious. Thing is, I've been pretty much set on something with more than 250hp as my weekend burner. Just doesn't seem worth it. Plus if I did get one, I would have to have it ordered which means I'd pay a lot more than I did for my 19. 

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7 minutes ago, vetali said:

Not really. Usually the metal will give before it breaks free. Need to hit it with pressure on it. Pitman arms on trucks are like this. You'll break the tool before it even moves a tiny bit without hitting it. 

 

Talked to a salesman at work today about the 2020 hatchback. They said they'd do a straight across trade with 1 dollar/mile driven on my current one if I was serious. Thing is, I've been pretty much set on something with more than 250hp as my weekend burner. Just doesn't seem worth it. Plus if I did get one, I would have to have it ordered which means I'd pay a lot more than I did for my 19. 

My grandma got a notice from Honda about a warranty extension from 5 years/60k miles to 6 years/unlimited miles for power train. This is for her 2017 CR-V

 

guess this is how Honda is handling the Gas in oil problem? Also it mentions on the paper about “whirling noise from engine” and A/C control unit replacement? What’s going on with that?

 

ill try that. Hopefully it works. If not I guess I’ll buy a used hub assembly :/ 

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"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

My grandma got a notice from Honda about a warranty extension from 5 years/60k miles to 6 years/unlimited miles for power train. This is for her 2017 CR-V

 

guess this is how Honda is handling the Gas in oil problem? Also it mentions on the paper about “whirling noise from engine” and A/C control unit replacement? What’s going on with that?

 

ill try that. Hopefully it works. If not I guess I’ll buy a used hub assembly :/ 

We've had a lot of people come in confused, complaining and threatening to never buy a Honda again after that notice. Kinda a mistake on their part.

 

Basically theres two issues. One being the oil dilution, and associated issues that may arise. 

 

The other is due to the camshafts wearing in a manner that creates a whirring noise. The fix is to inspect the spark plugs, camshafts, and rocker assemblies. If deemed damaged they are all replaced. 

 

I just think people shouldn't granny drive it. Mine has had no issues with oil dilution in the first 3k miles. Also should make sure she doesn't have the shift knob button recall. If she does its a really quick fix. If it breaks then you can't shift. 

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4 times up and down The Dragon.

 

I'll get more up later but every photographer on The Dragon got me at least 4 times. Go find me, I look boring because my suspension doesn't lean and squat lol.

IMG_20190817_192240.jpg

IMG_20190817_192223.jpg

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9 minutes ago, vetali said:

We've had a lot of people come in confused, complaining and threatening to never buy a Honda again after that notice. Kinda a mistake on their part.

 

Basically theres two issues. One being the oil dilution, and associated issues that may arise. 

 

The other is due to the camshafts wearing in a manner that creates a whirring noise. The fix is to inspect the spark plugs, camshafts, and rocker assemblies. If deemed damaged they are all replaced. 

 

I just think people shouldn't granny drive it. Mine has had no issues with oil dilution in the first 3k miles. Also should make sure she doesn't have the shift knob button recall. If she does its a really quick fix. If it breaks then you can't shift. 

Ah. Didn’t know about the camshaft issue. Thanks for clearing that up, I let her know why she got that letter and that it was for two engine issues that some people have but she doesn’t have currently. So hopefully all good. 

 

Thats actually pretty nice she she gets a 6 year unlimited mile warranty now

 

she said she never did anything about any shift knob. She actually has a 2018, I thought it was a 17. So that may be why? I looked up her vin on Honda’s site and there’s no open recalls so I assume she’s got the updated part already. 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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1 minute ago, bcredeur97 said:

Ah. Didn’t know about the camshaft issue. Thanks for clearing that up, I let her know why she got that letter and that it was for two engine issues that some people have but she doesn’t have currently. So hopefully all good. 

 

Thats actually pretty nice she she gets a 6 year unlimited mile warranty now

 

she said she never did anything about any shift knob. She actually has a 2018, I thought it was a 17. So that may be why? I looked up her vin on Honda’s site and there’s no open recalls so I assume she’s got the updated part already. 

People legit freak out though, we try to explain that, yeah its an unlimited mile warranty for 6 years. They aren't calmed by that and demand that we "fix" the issue, even though there is no issue with their car to begin with. We also get a lot of people coming in with lists of nuances right before warranty is up. Usually really obscure things or super intermittent. Such a headache because I don't get paid if there isn't a part to be replaced or a DTC.

 

Though I myself am pretty salty that they didn't extend it to 2019s. I'm sure eventually they will, or if they don't and I have an issue I can just call up the district manager lol. The 16-18 civics also got a condenser warranty extension that mine didn't. We replace a ton of civic condensers and they all take 1234yf. The refrigerant is more expensive than the condenser. 

 

Yeah it doesn't apply to 18s. Never seen a newer one with a loose shift knob. The early ones were pretty bad and usually broke at about 30k. 

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That shifter thing with the CR-V happened to the secretary at work, then 3 days later the letter for the recall came! She figured out how to poke her finger in there to shift it on her own, shockingly!

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12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

That shifter thing with the CR-V happened to the secretary at work, then 3 days later the letter for the recall came! She figured out how to poke her finger in there to shift it on her own, shockingly!

Funny enough before the recall we used to warranty out the whole shift knob. Then after the recall I got one with the button completely gone. I was like, uhhh how do you put this shit in drive. I guess the guy was legit sticking his finger all the way in there and pressing down on the finger that the button presses. Then I remove the shifter and there is pieces of the shifter damn near fused into the channels that the knob rides on. I had to take a file and make a new channel because we didn't have any shifters in stock. 

 

Normally I can do it in about a minute and it pays .3, that one took me a half hour. 

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