Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[That_Random_Guy]

3 minutes ago, Benji said:

Gearboxes handle torque, not power output. Higher-end cars with high-performance engines that manufacturers want to couple to their pre-existing gearboxes commonly increase performance but artificially limit the torque to not blow up the gearbox. The power output is less relevant than the torque.

i mean you arnt wrong but typically 1 comes with the other. and unless its a diesel they will be fairly within reach of each other in my case dynoed 440hp and 460tq crank

[That_Random_Guy]

6 minutes ago, Benji said:

Well, I didn't really understand the first part but actually there is a point at which you simply can't increase the torque because of limited displacement, and a turbo can only do so much. And going for turbos that give your about "600-700hp" (why would you even want that? Very few people can control it and very few cars have aerodynamics that actually allow it) will introduce (massive) turbo lag at which point the performance is just bullshit as it's not a realistic everyday value. A lot of cars, even with turbos, (looking at 9ff for example) will have tons of performance but the torque doesn't increase at a certain point because they simply won't give more. There is a point at which the torque will be there, but it'll be closer to a naturally aspirated engine at the point at which the performance has been so blown-up, and increasing the performance further will yield in more performance than torque.

Anyway, I assume you know what you're doing and I hope you don't kill your car or, worse, yourself in that thing.

Its a road race car that will be track probably as much as daily. not a daily. also lag really isnt an issue with smaller turbos. big ones yes small no. also will help with accel. which is what im going after.

edit should probs say im shooting for 600 range which wont require allll that much in terms of turbo given the specs of my motor. cam will change to a more turbo friendly one though

 

edit 2. should also note this is crank hp not wheel hp. can take upwards to 30% or more in some cases to get the whp number

[Bitter]

6 hours ago, That_Random_Guy said:

Its the older T5 Borg Warner WC from an 85 or 86 stang. Its getting some upgrades internally though when i have it rebuilt. will handle the 4-500HP thats getting hooked to it. maybe not the 6-700 this car will make when i turbo it lol

 

also my shipping curse strikes again.... my brand new clutch was not shipped with my clutch kit..... IDK HOW THAT FUCKIN HAPPENS.... got the flywheel tho if that counts lol... idk to laugh or just be outright pissed. all i know is they better overnight my fuckin $400 part cause im now solely waiting on that

Can always upgrade to a T56 later on. Have a friend with a 5.3 LS swapped RX7 running a T5 and he's worried about breaking it since it's stock and it's the more fragile one not the 'world class' T5.

[bcredeur97]

@vetali @Bitter alright got a new timing belt on the civic and it timed up right. Still doesn't work lol. I have a hunch the timing was actually never off... The marks lined up perfectly with the head and the actual metal mark on the block was lined up too. So that probably wasn't even the problem... but at least i got rid of the previously oil soaked timing belt for a fresh one. 

Any ideas? I wish it would throw a CEL if it's like the cam or crank sensor or something. The crank sensor in particular had a lot of gook on it that i cleaned up. I unfortunately don't have a camera to go look inside the cylinders to see if anything is obviously damaged, i suppose i could get one, probably good to have anyway.

Also I found out the A/C clutch cable came undone. I plugged it back in. From when I last checked it, all the refrigerant had leaked out but for what it's worth that might of been the initial problem lol.. but not worried about that rn.

[Bitter]

36 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

@vetali @Bitter alright got a new timing belt on the civic and it timed up right. Still doesn't work lol. I have a hunch the timing was actually never off... The marks lined up perfectly with the head and the actual metal mark on the block was lined up too. So that probably wasn't even the problem... but at least i got rid of the previously oil soaked timing belt for a fresh one. 

Any ideas? I wish it would throw a CEL if it's like the cam or crank sensor or something. The crank sensor in particular had a lot of gook on it that i cleaned up. I unfortunately don't have a camera to go look inside the cylinders to see if anything is obviously damaged, i suppose i could get one, probably good to have anyway.

Also I found out the A/C clutch cable came undone. I plugged it back in. From when I last checked it, all the refrigerant had leaked out but for what it's worth that might of been the initial problem lol.. but not worried about that rn.

Check the 3 basics, c ompression, fuel spray, and spark.

And make sure it's not flooded! Crank with like full throttle then with 1/2 throttle or dry the cylinders out with brake cleaner and compressed air or brake cleaner and no plugs cranking with no fuel. 

[PineyCreek]

2011 Kia Forte (aka Cerato I think?)  SX Koup, still just fine...will be 10 years old in June.  Plan on driving it until the wheels fall off.

 

That aside, I keep an eye out for cars that I like, cars that I can afford, and cars that I like that I can also afford.  One thing I've noticed that seems to transcend car cost is the automobile cancer that is piano black shiny plastic (only the best when it comes to collecting dust and fingerprints).  Aside from looking good when clean and in photos...who actually likes this in a car?  It's front and center in my current car (which I have to wipe down regularly...because I've touched it) and it seems to be on the dash in some luxury and supercars.  What gives?

[That_Random_Guy]

14 hours ago, Bitter said:

Can always upgrade to a T56 later on. Have a friend with a 5.3 LS swapped RX7 running a T5 and he's worried about breaking it since it's stock and it's the more fragile one not the 'world class' T5.

yea... nah. t56 trans cost 2 to 3k by themselves. already had the t5 and i say after the rebuild ill have about 3-3500 in the swap. also the "world class" thing is just a gimmick really. their basically the same thing lol least as far as ive researched which is like 2 threads

[vetali]

5 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

@vetali @Bitter alright got a new timing belt on the civic and it timed up right. Still doesn't work lol. I have a hunch the timing was actually never off... The marks lined up perfectly with the head and the actual metal mark on the block was lined up too. So that probably wasn't even the problem... but at least i got rid of the previously oil soaked timing belt for a fresh one. 

Any ideas? I wish it would throw a CEL if it's like the cam or crank sensor or something. The crank sensor in particular had a lot of gook on it that i cleaned up. I unfortunately don't have a camera to go look inside the cylinders to see if anything is obviously damaged, i suppose i could get one, probably good to have anyway.

Also I found out the A/C clutch cable came undone. I plugged it back in. From when I last checked it, all the refrigerant had leaked out but for what it's worth that might of been the initial problem lol.. but not worried about that rn.

Does it still crank fast? Or was it uneven? Seen a few cars that people start cold for a really short period to move them, then it no start fast cranks due to flooding out the cylinders with gas.

[Beerzerker]

6 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

@vetali @Bitter alright got a new timing belt on the civic and it timed up right. Still doesn't work lol. I have a hunch the timing was actually never off... The marks lined up perfectly with the head and the actual metal mark on the block was lined up too. So that probably wasn't even the problem... but at least i got rid of the previously oil soaked timing belt for a fresh one. 

Any ideas? I wish it would throw a CEL if it's like the cam or crank sensor or something. The crank sensor in particular had a lot of gook on it that i cleaned up. I unfortunately don't have a camera to go look inside the cylinders to see if anything is obviously damaged, i suppose i could get one, probably good to have anyway.

Also I found out the A/C clutch cable came undone. I plugged it back in. From when I last checked it, all the refrigerant had leaked out but for what it's worth that might of been the initial problem lol.. but not worried about that rn.

First off I'm not there to see and hear how it sounds when trying to start. What you hear can be clues to whats up but since I'm not....
You may have to resort to covering the basics - Hope not but if you do:

The principals are it must have:
Air:
Sufficient compression:
Sufficient fuel, AND sufficient spark delivered at the right time for it to hit and run.

If it's missing any of that or it's not getting it at the right time it needs it along with a sufficient quantity of Air, fuel and compression, it's not gonna go.
I'm assuming you've already checked for fuel getting to it with sufficent fuel pressure. If it's lacking fuel pressure/volume it's not going to get enough fuel to run.
A quick shot of ether/starting fluid to the airbox/cleaner will let you know if it's at least getting fire and so on to run with.
If it does hit or even run for a sec it's most likely (Not neccesarily though) pointing to a fuel related issue.

Since you did mention it's a Honda and you did the timing belt, provided there are no valve train problems that should be good to go now.
You may want to double-check the timing of the belt and such referring to the manual but I'm assuming you've done all that already and it's correct. I'd also check for any valve train problems, I've always known Hondas to be an interference engine so if the valves have hit the pistons it's already game over without some work.

If it sounds like you've removed the plugs (Just spins smoothly or the usual with a smooth spot as it spins) then you need to do a compression test on the cylinders - That will give you a direction to go for checking things if any issues are there to find at all.

I will say chances are ATM it's an ignition/computer problem as you suspect.
However, until you know what the problem(s) are, at this point it's all on the table to consider.
Good luck.

[iDeFecZx]

Less than a week in and already had some undesirables trying to get into the house early hours yesterday

Cant have anything nice these days without some lowlifes wanting to take it

[PandaCopyRight]

10 hours ago, PineyCreek said:

2011 Kia Forte (aka Cerato I think?)  SX Koup, still just fine...will be 10 years old in June.  Plan on driving it until the wheels fall off.

 

That aside, I keep an eye out for cars that I like, cars that I can afford, and cars that I like that I can also afford.  One thing I've noticed that seems to transcend car cost is the automobile cancer that is piano black shiny plastic (only the best when it comes to collecting dust and fingerprints).  Aside from looking good when clean and in photos...who actually likes this in a car?  It's front and center in my current car (which I have to wipe down regularly...because I've touched it) and it seems to be on the dash in some luxury and supercars.  What gives?

cause people think piano black is luxurious and so luxury trims or cars get piano black or any shiny material for that matter ... im very happy that my car has fuck all piano black (TYVM Volvo  ) also i think its quite cheap to make? 
But i agree piano black is literally the worst ... gets dirty and/or scratched very quickly. I genuinely rather get shitty carbon look wrap that just looks bad but wont need constant care 

 

[bcredeur97]

6 hours ago, vetali said:

Does it still crank fast? Or was it uneven? Seen a few cars that people start cold for a really short period to move them, then it no start fast cranks due to flooding out the cylinders with gas.

I’ll just go do a compression test and stop guessing I guess. 
 

I don’t think it’s flooded tho 

[Bitter]

23 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I’ll just go do a compression test and stop guessing I guess. 
 

I don’t think it’s flooded tho 

You'd be surprised...that's like the #3 reason we get a car towed in for a no-start behind actual starter system  problems where it won't crank or a dead fuel pump. It'll crank all day long, sometimes crank fast like it's got no compression even. You pull some plugs and dry them out, blow a couple cylinders dry, and start it with full throttle to clear fuel from the other cylinders then go to cranking at about 1/2 throttle so it'll start squirting fuel again and it'll catch on the dry cylinders then start catching on the wet ones as they get some air blowing through. But on an easy 4 cylinder like yours just dry all 4 plugs and cylinders. Worn out ignition parts make that flooding out problem much harder to resolve. Sometimes if the engine is really high miles I have to prime it with a little engine oil after drying it out to get the compression back up so it'll start more easily.

[bcredeur97]

5 minutes ago, Bitter said:

You'd be surprised...that's like the #3 reason we get a car towed in for a no-start behind actual starter system  problems where it won't crank or a dead fuel pump. It'll crank all day long, sometimes crank fast like it's got no compression even. You pull some plugs and dry them out, blow a couple cylinders dry, and start it with full throttle to clear fuel from the other cylinders then go to cranking at about 1/2 throttle so it'll start squirting fuel again and it'll catch on the dry cylinders then start catching on the wet ones as they get some air blowing through. But on an easy 4 cylinder like yours just dry all 4 plugs and cylinders. Worn out ignition parts make that flooding out problem much harder to resolve. Sometimes if the engine is really high miles I have to prime it with a little engine oil after drying it out to get the compression back up so it'll start more easily.

ill look for sure.

it does sound way better when it's cranking then this, which is one that broke a timing belt, so it's got something lol:
 

 

[Bitter]

Well that's good. I'm sure you'll get it running and it's hopefully something not so serious. Something we see with high mile cars also is wear in the throttle plate/shaft bushings/throttle stop/throttle levers that can cause a loss of minimum airflow which can cause problems starting or stalling. I actually need to check/adjust throttle clearance on my Mazda, sometimes it forgets it has an electronic idle control and likes to idle at like 500rpm for some reason.

[vetali]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

You'd be surprised...that's like the #3 reason we get a car towed in for a no-start behind actual starter system  problems where it won't crank or a dead fuel pump. It'll crank all day long, sometimes crank fast like it's got no compression even. You pull some plugs and dry them out, blow a couple cylinders dry, and start it with full throttle to clear fuel from the other cylinders then go to cranking at about 1/2 throttle so it'll start squirting fuel again and it'll catch on the dry cylinders then start catching on the wet ones as they get some air blowing through. But on an easy 4 cylinder like yours just dry all 4 plugs and cylinders. Worn out ignition parts make that flooding out problem much harder to resolve. Sometimes if the engine is really high miles I have to prime it with a little engine oil after drying it out to get the compression back up so it'll start more easily.

This, its really common on hondas of that era and I've seen it happen on my friends newer corolla. Yours might be more difficult to get started again due to it sitting. Usually if its fresh I unplug the injectors and mat the gas pedal while cranking (no clear flood w/o scan tool on hondas) until I get some sputters, then I plug back in the injectors and it usually fires right up.

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

This, its really common on hondas of that era and I've seen it happen on my friends newer corolla. Yours might be more difficult to get started again due to it sitting. Usually if its fresh I unplug the injectors and mat the gas pedal while cranking (no clear flood w/o scan tool on hondas) until I get some sputters, then I plug back in the injectors and it usually fires right up.

 

[bcredeur97]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

 

@vetali and what do you know? This was the issue. Took out the plugs, they smelled like fuel. I didn't really want to dissassemble any further i pulled the "FI ECU" fuse which I hopefully correctly assumed was for the injectors. Spun it over a bunch, let it sit for a while to hopefully let any fuel evaporate out of the cylinders, sprayed a little fogging oil in each cylinder.

put the plugs back in (prob should of went get new ones but was really thinking this car was dead at this point), Reassembled everything. Went crank it didn't fire, I just kept cranking it got better and better then I added a little throttle and it fired up, blew a bunch of smoke out the exhaust, and after a couple mins was running smoothly and idling perfectly. 

Thanks guys! Now I can sell this piece of crap to someone for $2k again haha (or actually use it since the car market is STUPID right now but idk how much I wanna push my luck with this thing) 

I have no idea how this happened. Again literally went to the car one morning and just went to start and it didn't. This was after a weekend, where it sat since I usually miata on weekends. The friday prior it just got me back from work? Not like I had cold started and then shut it off which would of caused a flood situation? I guess it'll remain a mystery

[Bitter]

Glad that's all it was! You should have done the flaming spark plugs though, looks so cool!

[vetali]

4 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

@vetali and what do you know? This was the issue. Took out the plugs, they smelled like fuel. I didn't really want to dissassemble any further i pulled the "FI ECU" fuse which I hopefully correctly assumed was for the injectors. Spun it over a bunch, let it sit for a while to hopefully let any fuel evaporate out of the cylinders, sprayed a little fogging oil in each cylinder.

put the plugs back in (prob should of went get new ones but was really thinking this car was dead at this point), Reassembled everything. Went crank it didn't fire, I just kept cranking it got better and better then I added a little throttle and it fired up, blew a bunch of smoke out the exhaust, and after a couple mins was running smoothly and idling perfectly. 

Thanks guys! Now I can sell this piece of crap to someone for $2k again haha (or actually use it since the car market is STUPID right now but idk how much I wanna push my luck with this thing) 

I have no idea how this happened. Again literally went to the car one morning and just went to start and it didn't. This was after a weekend, where it sat since I usually miata on weekends. The friday prior it just got me back from work? Not like I had cold started and then shut it off which would of caused a flood situation? I guess it'll remain a mystery

Could have a leaking injector... or 4. I don't think those are return fuel systems so they don't have FPRs. Market is stupid for SUVs and trucks. Cars are dirt cheap right now. I was looking at accord prices and I can get non clapped out 8th gens for 5-7k... like lol. Considering it because if I take the job at our new dealer it will be a 110 mile drive a day. Not wanting to rack up that kinda mileage on the passport yet.

[Bitter]

I'm getting more tired of my Mazda but I just don't know what to replace it with. Honestly anything looks good, a 2015 Kia Forte would be fine. I just want auto, small to medium, 4 doors, and at least 30mpg mixed, and asian.

 

[bcredeur97]

9 minutes ago, vetali said:

Could have a leaking injector... or 4. I don't think those are return fuel systems so they don't have FPRs. Market is stupid for SUVs and trucks. Cars are dirt cheap right now. I was looking at accord prices and I can get non clapped out 8th gens for 5-7k... like lol. Considering it because if I take the job at our new dealer it will be a 110 mile drive a day. Not wanting to rack up that kinda mileage on the passport yet.

Everything seems pretty stupid according to this

I mean yes SUV’s and trucks more so but still 

[bcredeur97]

and 5-6% across the whole market in the last 30 days IS NUTS

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

and 5-6% across the whole market in the last 30 days IS NUTS

Dealer? Private? Both? I am looking private unless we get a good trade in. Had a decent one the other week, 13(?) accord touring v6 but they took way too much on trade. Could be worse. They took a completely rotted out canadian silverado in on trade. It was a 13, basic LT with vinyl floor, 4 door for 17k. Frame so gone that I almost didn't want to lift it. Thing shook like crazy past 45mph. Tons of steering play. They are auctioning it for a big loss.

[bcredeur97]

1 minute ago, vetali said:

Dealer? Private? Both? I am looking private unless we get a good trade in. Had a decent one the other week, 13(?) accord touring v6 but they took way too much on trade. Could be worse. They took a completely rotted out canadian silverado in on trade. It was a 13, basic LT with vinyl floor, 4 door for 17k. Frame so gone that I almost didn't want to lift it. Thing shook like crazy past 45mph. Tons of steering play. They are auctioning it for a big loss.

car gurus i think just goes off sale prices so it's both. but also only their own listings so 

not many cars for sale around here. Though I refuse to use facebook so idk whats on their marketplace, they prob all on there.