Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[the gamer that is bad]

Just now, AlwaysFSX said:

Gotta hit redline on the on-ramps to shake the mud out of the frame

Well I do 45 in my bumper car soon to do more I just don’t own a car yet just toys side by sides go karts etc 

[jagdtigger]

8 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Gotta hit redline on the on-ramps to shake the mud out of the frame

My car is just a means of transport. If i want to have fun i use my motorbike .

[AlwaysFSX]

3 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

My car is just a means of transport. If i want to have fun i use my motorbike .

Well that's not a fun world to live in.

[jagdtigger]

Just now, AlwaysFSX said:

Well that's not a fun world to live in.

For you maybe, the bike is only 600ccm but its more than enough to outrun most of the cars if need be. Not to mention the open exhaust...

[PandaCopyRight]

1 hour ago, the gamer that is bad said:

Nitrous it then

 

id like to have a daily tyvm

13 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

For you maybe, the bike is only 600ccm but its more than enough to outrun most of the cars if need be. Not to mention the open exhaust...

600cc bikes that people talk about are usually supersports so like 100+hp, 700-900cc bikes usually have less .. quite a bit less power
So obviously 600cc bikes can outrun most cars, but id say even a 500cc can outrun most cars on the road 

[Sarra]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

Peasant. 7800 red line, 8000 fuel cut, 20yrs old.

S2000?

 

Wasn't there a LS6 or LS7 around that was built for 9,000 RPM?

[iDeFecZx]

16 minutes ago, Sarra said:

S2000?

 

Wasn't there a LS6 or LS7 around that was built for 9,000 RPM?

2000s rev beyond 8k

Think my old EP3 hit the redline at 8250

My 182 "only" revs to 7250

[AlwaysFSX]

51 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

For you maybe, the bike is only 600ccm but its more than enough to outrun most of the cars if need be. Not to mention the open exhaust...

This part:

58 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

My car is just a means of transport.

How unfortunate

[Bitter]

20 minutes ago, Sarra said:

S2000?

 

Wasn't there a LS6 or LS7 around that was built for 9,000 RPM?

2ZZ-GE, have to hit 8,000 just to go anywhere lol.

 

Nah it drives like a more responsive 1ZZ until the big cam lobes come on at about 6,000 then it screams to 8k. It's actually pretty pleasant to carve corners in the middle of the power band from 3 to 6 too,just not it's peak performance.

[jagdtigger]

42 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

600cc bikes that people talk about are usually supersports so like 100+hp

Nah, tour-sport hybrid (bandit 600s), 75 hp.

[jagdtigger]

14 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

How unfortunate

Its only 1.6 suction gasoline, it was never  intended to have fun while driving it. (golf mk5 )

[PandaCopyRight]

5 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

Nah, tour-sport hybrid (bandit 600s), 75 hp.

fair enough, still an I4 based on a supersport engine 

4 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

Its only 1.6 suction gasoline, it was never  intended to have fun while driving it. (golf mk5 )

hey i have a 1.6 diesel with an automatic .. what should i say
still somehow manage to have fun while driving

[AlwaysFSX]

22 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

Its only 1.6 suction gasoline, it was never  intended to have fun while driving it. (golf mk5 )

You can have fun in anything

[arnavvr]

4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

hey ill go over 4000 rpm every now and then at home. I was more referring to long interstate trips lol

I miss autocrossing. I wish vehicles that can tow miatas were affordable. takes all the stress of breaking your car 150 miles from home away

Just buy some from of roadside assistance and let them do all the towing for you  

[AlwaysFSX]

8 minutes ago, arnavvr said:

Just buy some from of roadside assistance and let them do all the towing for you  

Ahh nothing like a AAA driver not knowing where to hook a strap to the car and breaking something trying to put it on the flatbed.

[Sarra]

3 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

2000s rev beyond 8k

Think my old EP3 hit the redline at 8250

My 182 "only" revs to 7250

I ran a redline in my 2002 WRX at 7,400 RPM. I never ran it htat high, but with the rev limiter at 7,000 RPM, hitting it was so violent, I was afraid I would break my transmission. Hitting it at 7,400 RPM was really gentle...

 

I haven't messed with the redline in my 2005 Baja. Too big of a motor... I might be building the heads, though. Beehive valvesprings and slightly bigger cams. I'll probably try for a 7,000 RPM redline...

 

The stroker motor I wanted to build for my WRX would have easily done 8,000 RPM. I also got a 1995 Legacy with a 2.2 up around 9,000 RPM... Money shift on the freeway. I have no idea how nothing came apart...

[Bitter]

8 hours ago, Bitter said:

13 SRX runs poopy. Lol!

Ok, I didn't have time to elaborate on this one at work but it's an adventure into why seeking a second opinion is always a good idea and why talking to the tech who's diagnosing the car can be a really useful insight as well.

 

2013 Cadillac SRX with 173,000 miles on it. Oil dirty, due for an oil change, 1/2qt low, coolant low in bottle but not empty. Had a WHOLE bunch of stored codes in like every module all history codes except 2 of them (likely old from a low/dead battery, thanks GM), but only interested in the engine codes here. P0101 Mass Airflow sensor circuit range/performance, P0106 MAP sensor signal range/performance, P0068 MAP/MAF throttle position correlation, P0024 Bank 2 Camshaft position system performance. The engine would start/stall repeatedly, once it was running it would stall and barely move for more than a few feet at a time, when it did run and move it back fired into the intake often and sounded very very lean.

Dealer quoted her $3800 for timing chains, guides, sprockets, VVT actuators. Normally we see some other codes like cam/crank correlation (P0008/9, P0010/11/12, etc) when there's timing chain problems and normally any Camshaft position system performance codes are also on Bank 1 or only on Bank 1 since that chain gets more wear driving the high pressure fuel pump. On cold star we had no tell tale chain rattle indicating a stretched chain and worn guides.

So like any car and like any good tech I start with the basics. Let's look at this no idle thing, maybe it's got bad chains and a throttle body problem too, MAP/MAF/Throttle correlation can certainly be a bad throttle but would usually throw some throttle/app position codes as well or close throttle position performance and toss the car into limp throttle mode. Start off by really getting basic, lets check the air filter. It's got shit on the clean side and fits loose in the box, it's bent and one side is a bit smashed. Check the Mass Airflow sensor and voila! We have the above photo, a maple tree bud stuck INSIDE the sensor against the sensor wire. Knock it out, clean the MAF, rag the intake tube and blow the airbox clean, reassemble with the box open and no air filter, starts RIGHT up and even revs up in park (as much as the ECM will allow). Ended up getting approval for air filter and oil change, test drove it twice, other than a locked up mag ride strut in the L/F seems great for the miles on it!

 

Yeah, $3800 timing chain job and they would have called her back to tell her she also needs a $300 Mass Airflow sensor too or they would have just never told her that's what it was all along. Always get a second opinion on big repairs. Always ask to talk to the tech and have them explain how they concluded that it needed those repairs when it's a big job. This is a large well known dealer in the area, we buy from their parts dept sometimes and my boss has bought a lot of vehicles from them over the years. Not a good look for their service dept!

 

[JoaoPRSousa]

4 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

You can have fun in anything

 

I don't think so buddy

 

Or just imagine using your own car for whatever you want to, just imagine

[AlwaysFSX]

9 minutes ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

I don't think so buddy

 

Or just imagine using your own car for whatever you want to, just imagine

Nope

[vetali]

23 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Ok, I didn't have time to elaborate on this one at work but it's an adventure into why seeking a second opinion is always a good idea and why talking to the tech who's diagnosing the car can be a really useful insight as well.

 

2013 Cadillac SRX with 173,000 miles on it. Oil dirty, due for an oil change, 1/2qt low, coolant low in bottle but not empty. Had a WHOLE bunch of stored codes in like every module all history codes except 2 of them (likely old from a low/dead battery, thanks GM), but only interested in the engine codes here. P0101 Mass Airflow sensor circuit range/performance, P0106 MAP sensor signal range/performance, P0068 MAP/MAF throttle position correlation, P0024 Bank 2 Camshaft position system performance. The engine would start/stall repeatedly, once it was running it would stall and barely move for more than a few feet at a time, when it did run and move it back fired into the intake often and sounded very very lean.

Dealer quoted her $3800 for timing chains, guides, sprockets, VVT actuators. Normally we see some other codes like cam/crank correlation (P0008/9, P0010/11/12, etc) when there's timing chain problems and normally any Camshaft position system performance codes are also on Bank 1 or only on Bank 1 since that chain gets more wear driving the high pressure fuel pump. On cold star we had no tell tale chain rattle indicating a stretched chain and worn guides.

So like any car and like any good tech I start with the basics. Let's look at this no idle thing, maybe it's got bad chains and a throttle body problem too, MAP/MAF/Throttle correlation can certainly be a bad throttle but would usually throw some throttle/app position codes as well or close throttle position performance and toss the car into limp throttle mode. Start off by really getting basic, lets check the air filter. It's got shit on the clean side and fits loose in the box, it's bent and one side is a bit smashed. Check the Mass Airflow sensor and voila! We have the above photo, a maple tree bud stuck INSIDE the sensor against the sensor wire. Knock it out, clean the MAF, rag the intake tube and blow the airbox clean, reassemble with the box open and no air filter, starts RIGHT up and even revs up in park (as much as the ECM will allow). Ended up getting approval for air filter and oil change, test drove it twice, other than a locked up mag ride strut in the L/F seems great for the miles on it!

 

Yeah, $3800 timing chain job and they would have called her back to tell her she also needs a $300 Mass Airflow sensor too or they would have just never told her that's what it was all along. Always get a second opinion on big repairs. Always ask to talk to the tech and have them explain how they concluded that it needed those repairs when it's a big job. This is a large well known dealer in the area, we buy from their parts dept sometimes and my boss has bought a lot of vehicles from them over the years. Not a good look for their service dept!

 

I always check the MAF for rich/lean codes on hondas. Seen a few things in them before.

 

Having a string of injector replacements lately... cause predicted air fuel ratio of cylinder codes, AF test usually runs rich on said cylinder. Mostly due to granny driving the car. The 1.5 turbos are a bit of a pain to work on. Also did a valve adjustment on this one.

 

 

Also did cats on an acura that was so bad you couldn't give it gas without stalling once warm. Complete chernobyl meltdown status. Wish I got pics of the primary cats, I forgot to. Had to hurry on that job

 

[Bitter]

29 minutes ago, vetali said:

I always check the MAF for rich/lean codes on hondas. Seen a few things in them before.

 

Having a string of injector replacements lately... cause predicted air fuel ratio of cylinder codes, AF test usually runs rich on said cylinder. Mostly due to granny driving the car. The 1.5 turbos are a bit of a pain to work on. Also did a valve adjustment on this one.

 

 

 

Also did cats on an acura that was so bad you couldn't give it gas without stalling once warm. Complete chernobyl meltdown status. Wish I got pics of the primary cats, I forgot to. Had to hurry on that job

 

Looks like every V6 Ford Escape that had a dead coil and misfire. They'd OBLITERATE the manifold cats and the debris would go down stream and just solidify against the clean up cat's face like a molten glaze. I love my little $30 bore scope camera for my phone, can stick it into the O2 sensor hole and get a quick idea how fuckered things are. If the face of the cat looks wavy it's plugged up inside the matrix where you can't see almost every time.

[vetali]

29 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Looks like every V6 Ford Escape that had a dead coil and misfire. They'd OBLITERATE the manifold cats and the debris would go down stream and just solidify against the clean up cat's face like a molten glaze. I love my little $30 bore scope camera for my phone, can stick it into the O2 sensor hole and get a quick idea how fuckered things are. If the face of the cat looks wavy it's plugged up inside the matrix where you can't see almost every time.

Well the sketchy thing is they only okayed the cat replacement. Still a $4k a ticket, but I also recommended plugs and injector cleaning... declined those. So I didn't even warm it up to burn off the coating on the cats. Just parked it. Didn't want to risk burning up 3k in cats.

[Bitter]

15 minutes ago, vetali said:

Well the sketchy thing is they only okayed the cat replacement. Still a $4k a ticket, but I also recommended plugs and injector cleaning... declined those. So I didn't even warm it up to burn off the coating on the cats. Just parked it. Didn't want to risk burning up 3k in cats.

Oooo so the thing that A LOT of people don't know about new cats is that they do need a break in cycle. The insulation around them expands when heated the first time and helps hold the matrix in place. Not sure if this is just aftermarket ones or only certain ones but we just always do it now. Cheap insurance I guess and it gets rid of the terrible smells that the customer is bound to bitch about. We push hard to sell the root cause by making the customer sign off that they denied the other parts and are now exempted from any warranty on parts or labor. Usually they change their minds when they get to that part.

https://www.underhoodservice.com/tech-tip-converter-break-in-periods/

Walker says that none of theirs need this. Probably not needed on OEM cats either.

[vetali]

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Oooo so the thing that A LOT of people don't know about new cats is that they do need a break in cycle. The insulation around them expands when heated the first time and helps hold the matrix in place. Not sure if this is just aftermarket ones or only certain ones but we just always do it now. Cheap insurance I guess and it gets rid of the terrible smells that the customer is bound to bitch about. We push hard to sell the root cause by making the customer sign off that they denied the other parts and are now exempted from any warranty on parts or labor. Usually they change their minds when they get to that part.

https://www.underhoodservice.com/tech-tip-converter-break-in-periods/

Walker says that none of theirs need this. Probably not needed on OEM cats either.

I've never heard of that. They were OEM, were only 30 dollars more than aftermarket.

[sub68]

I was going home from the store and this was on the road.

Pokemon livery on a mustang.

I live in a college town that gets a lot of foreign students so this is not uncommon.

(I have seen hypercars, exotics and everything in between)