Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[warmmilk]

On 6/13/2019 at 2:51 PM, bcredeur97 said:

220hp from an N/A 2.0L with no internal mods holy crap 

 

https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-japanesecars/bbr-unveils-super-200-220-power-hikes-for-mx-5/40359?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ios_share_flow_optimization&utm_term=enabled

 

@warmmilk

its bbr... known for claiming overly optimistic calculated crank hp numbers... kinda like gwr but even worse

[bcredeur97]

42 minutes ago, warmmilk said:

its bbr... known for claiming overly optimistic calculated crank hp numbers... kinda like gwr but even worse

Oh

[Beef Boss]

After even normal synthetic oil not lasting in my car for very long, I'm thinking about switching to T5 rotella oil. Any input? I've read a few forums and seen some Z drivers do it, though my car isn't a Z I'm sure it'll be fine. I've been sinking some money into my car as of late.. new sparkplug wires(wow these are pricy), I got new wheels and tires, headlights, yikes 

[3 Lions]

BTCC at Croft this week-end, I'll be there tomorrow  

[chaozbandit]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FF8Vt_SKuM

http://www.tipskare.tk/p/24-hours-of-le-mans.html

http://radiolemans.0157.org/nplayer.php

[Bitter]

10 hours ago, veldora said:

After even normal synthetic oil not lasting in my car for very long, I'm thinking about switching to T5 rotella oil. Any input? I've read a few forums and seen some Z drivers do it, though my car isn't a Z I'm sure it'll be fine. I've been sinking some money into my car as of late.. new sparkplug wires(wow these are pricy), I got new wheels and tires, headlights, yikes 

I've done a bit of reading on this and the concensus was that it doesn't actually protect better or actually last longer, if your engine is hard on oil you need to know why and get an oil that better copes with that problem. Shear, heat, contamination, etc. And how are you gauging it not lasting long? TBN analysis?

[Beef Boss]

13 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I've done a bit of reading on this and the concensus was that it doesn't actually protect better or actually last longer, if your engine is hard on oil you need to know why and get an oil that better copes with that problem. Shear, heat, contamination, etc. And how are you gauging it not lasting long? TBN analysis?

Nothing too scientific about how long it lasts, just color basically. I'm not a scientist or anything, but I check it at intervals just to see the fill level and how dark it's getting. I understand that it'll mix with old oil since it's not a full flush. It just gets dark really quick, the synthetic is dark brown right now... And it only has 2.5k miles on it so I don't think that should be like that. It's not a super high mileage vehicle either. My guess is that it just doesn't hold a lot of oil and the little it holds just gets its use idk. 

[bcredeur97]

33 minutes ago, veldora said:

Nothing too scientific about how long it lasts, just color basically. I'm not a scientist or anything, but I check it at intervals just to see the fill level and how dark it's getting. I understand that it'll mix with old oil since it's not a full flush. It just gets dark really quick, the synthetic is dark brown right now... And it only has 2.5k miles on it so I don't think that should be like that. It's not a super high mileage vehicle either. My guess is that it just doesn't hold a lot of oil and the little it holds just gets its use idk. 

Color is just an indicator of how much dirt and carbon your oil is picking up. A lab used oil analysis would be better. Black stone labs will let you send them your old oil for like $40 and they will analyze it for you if you want

 

Clean your intake system and get a new OEM style air filter if you think it’s getting dirty too fast. Also change your PCV valve

[Beef Boss]

42 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Color is just an indicator of how much dirt and carbon your oil is picking up. A lab used oil analysis would be better. Black stone labs will let you send them your old oil for like $40 and they will analyze it for you if you want

 

Clean your intake system and get a new OEM style air filter if you think it’s getting dirty too fast. Also change your PCV valve

Yeah I've thought about sending it to a lab, it'd be cool to know what's going on. I've replaced the air filter. Most things have been replaced on this engine before 

[chaozbandit]

64 Covette has crashed out

 

https://streamable.com/e24lt

 

 

[Bitter]

4 hours ago, veldora said:

Nothing too scientific about how long it lasts, just color basically. I'm not a scientist or anything, but I check it at intervals just to see the fill level and how dark it's getting. I understand that it'll mix with old oil since it's not a full flush. It just gets dark really quick, the synthetic is dark brown right now... And it only has 2.5k miles on it so I don't think that should be like that. It's not a super high mileage vehicle either. My guess is that it just doesn't hold a lot of oil and the little it holds just gets its use idk. 

Send a sample off to Blackstone Lab for analysis, costs $25 but it's worth it to know what's up with your engine and how the oil is doing. A better filter might cut down on particulates darkening the oil, I'm partial to the Purolator top or second tier filters. Color doesn't mean a lot for engine oil. 

[3 Lions]

Really strange qualifying session today at Croft, 5 red flags. 3 of the red flags were caused by the foam bales and the other 2 were caused by a crash and a car getting stuck in the grass with a split tire. There was also rain near the end of the session, I don't think I've ever seen a qualifying session as hectic as this before.  

Edited June 15, 2019 by LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo

[FuzzyYellow]

6 hours ago, vinyldash303 said:

Isn’t T5 conventional? I don’t know what car you have but I’ve been using T6 in the vehicles I’ve driven and really like it

T4 is conventional, T5 is a synthetic blend, and T6 is full synthetic.

I run T6 in my 400EX. good stuff. I'm in the process of switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum from Mobil 1 full synthetic based on Project Farm's oil testing series. Mobil 1 did okay, but Pennzoil is the same price but took second overall in testing.

[FuzzyYellow]

5 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

I saw that! I wanna run ultra plat in the tahoe but its not available at localest walmart or on prime on amazon soooo prob going to run regular plat next oil change. Wish rotella t6 was 10-40. 

why so thick? I'm sure your engine calls for a 5w-20 or 5w-30 right?

 

Edit: Wally World sells it online with free shipping on anything more than $35. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-Ultra-Platinum-5W-30-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt/55291206

[AlwaysFSX]

4 hours ago, FuzzyYellow said:

T4 is conventional, T5 is a synthetic blend, and T6 is full synthetic.

I run T6 in my 400EX. good stuff. I'm in the process of switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum from Mobil 1 full synthetic based on Project Farm's oil testing series. Mobil 1 did okay, but Pennzoil is the same price but took second overall in testing.

I want to see him do actual heated mechanical testing with those oils for something real world. Just because something flows really well hot/cold doesn't mean is has the film strength to protect the metal in your engine.

[Bitter]

Project Farm is entertaining to watch but that's about it, it's scientainment.

 

I've bounced between brands and types on my 2ZZ but have just been running 5W-40 synthetic at 5K intervals lately. 5W-40 is what Lotus suggests for track use with the 2ZZ, I don't track it (yet?) but I do run it hard when I take it out and there is metal on metal contact for the high lift cam lobes so oil film strength is critical when you're going into lift often and staying in lift which with the automatic it's easier to stay in lift because of the longer gears after 1st. There's a nice set of oil sprayers in the valve cover that keep it all bathed in oil all the time which really is nice to have, the high lift cam lobes are pretty rounded with long duration so they don't jump much, and the metal shoes they ride on are a sintered material I think which holds oil well and has some self lubricity also. It's similar to the shoes a SR20 cam lobes ride on, but there's a dual cam lobe setup where the low lift cam lobes ride on roller rockers and then in high lift mode the lifters lock and engage the high lift cam lobes. It's a pretty drastic change over but that's partly because of how Toyota tuned it to 'kick' into lift so it feels dramatic, blah.

[iDeFecZx]

12 hours ago, LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo said:

Really strange qualifying session today at Croft, 5 red flags. 3 of the red flags were caused by the foam bales and the other 2 were caused by a crash and a car getting stuck in the grass with a split tire. There was also rain near the end of the session, I don't think I've ever seen a qualifying session as hectic as this before.  

Seems like there's quite a delayed start to the racing today, first race isnt until lunch time and its a BTCC one, no support races early on?

[chaozbandit]

8 overtakes 7 with a puncture. Both cars need a splash to get to the end.

 

 

[711jrp]

8 hours ago, Bitter said:

Project Farm is entertaining to watch but that's about it, it's scientainment.

 

I've bounced between brands and types on my 2ZZ but have just been running 5W-40 synthetic at 5K intervals lately. 5W-40 is what Lotus suggests for track use with the 2ZZ, I don't track it (yet?) but I do run it hard when I take it out and there is metal on metal contact for the high lift cam lobes so oil film strength is critical when you're going into lift often and staying in lift which with the automatic it's easier to stay in lift because of the longer gears after 1st. There's a nice set of oil sprayers in the valve cover that keep it all bathed in oil all the time which really is nice to have, the high lift cam lobes are pretty rounded with long duration so they don't jump much, and the metal shoes they ride on are a sintered material I think which holds oil well and has some self lubricity also. It's similar to the shoes a SR20 cam lobes ride on, but there's a dual cam lobe setup where the low lift cam lobes ride on roller rockers and then in high lift mode the lifters lock and engage the high lift cam lobes. It's a pretty drastic change over but that's partly because of how Toyota tuned it to 'kick' into lift so it feels dramatic, blah.

I couldn't agree more , lost interest when I saw the scuff/friction test, gear oil would pass that test with flying colours but you wouldn't use that in your engine. That test along with the rich mixture/oil cap test was used as a scam in the 70s at motor shows to sell magic potions to unsuspecting customers (don't ask me if I'm old enough to remember)

[vetali]

1 hour ago, 711jrp said:

I couldn't agree more , lost interest when I saw the scuff/friction test, gear oil would pass that test with flying colours but you wouldn't use that in your engine. That test along with the rich mixture/oil cap test was used as a scam in the 70s at motor shows to sell magic potions to unsuspecting customers (don't ask me if I'm old enough to remember)

Yeah, thats the same rig the snake oil salesman uses in their demo whenever they come around.... I still sell it because it makes me a ton of money lul 

[Real_PhillBert]

So I spent the weekend with my folks for Fathers day; my dad is going to buy a new small pickup to replace his civic pretty soon, so we went and drove a Chevy Colorado, and a Ford Ranger.

 

I was really surprised how smooth the Chev powertrain was, when parked you really had to look at the tach to tell it was even running; silky smooth and super quiet. Sadly the rest of the Colorado was uninspiring, everything in the interior felt super cheap and the display on the dash was pretty slow to respond.

 

The Ranger was basically the polar opposite, the interior was great, and the electronics package was impressive. The 2.3L engine was MUCH louder than the 3.6L V6 in the Colorado, but the Ranger was also noticeably quicker and lighter on it's feet. 

 

As of right now he's kinda leaning to the Ranger but those are a couple grand more expensive, so could really go either way. 

 

But while we were there, I did see this GT350R sitting in the corner:

 

 

Currently priced at $93k, a full $20k over the $73k sticker price. I like Mustangs, but my enthusiasm starts to wain as things get dangerously close to the six figure mark. 

 

They also had an F150 in almost the exact spec I would want one; 4-Door, short bed, 5.0L, 4x4, Lariat, locking rear end, 36gal fuel tank, center console, and trailer tow. $46k... Someday.

 

[TVwazhere]

9 minutes ago, Real_PhillBert said:

The 2.3L engine was MUCH louder than the 3.6L V6 in the Colorado

Are you just noting it's louder in the cabin, or was it also louder when you got out?

 

Our ST's do have the sound symposers so I wouldn't be surprised if they threw one of those into the 2.3L rangers to make people think they're being loud when they step on the gas. 

[Real_PhillBert]

6 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Are you just noting it's louder in the cabin, or was it also louder when you got out?

 

Our ST's do have the sound symposers so I wouldn't be surprised if they threw one of those into the 2.3L rangers to make people think they're being loud when they step on the gas. 

Both inside and out, and this isn't the same noise as a sound symposer, its just engine noise. 

[TVwazhere]

Just now, Real_PhillBert said:

Both inside and out, and this isn't the same noise as a sound symposer, its just engine noise. 

That's good then. The symposers are silly and are never a good replacement for a proper exhaust!

[chaozbandit]

What a race

 

@MEC-777