Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Beerzerker]

5 minutes ago, 8tg said:

Inconsistent rpm when applying throttle, slight lag when accelerating from a stop, low rpm when at idle in drive.

Symptoms of poor fuel supply right?

I think the fuel filter on this 30 year old car is original, I’m gonna replace it and all the lines anyway but I want to make sure I’ve got the right idea here.

 

For context this is very minor, this isn’t a deathly low idle rpm, the rpm variation when applying throttle is very slight, but it’s there.

Several things it could be but if the filter is that old, yeah - That can cause it.
I'd also go for a fuel system cleaning, check it's tuneup and possibly even make sure the catalytic converter isn't becoming clogged due to it's age. 
If the engine can't breathe it will not run right and the converter could be making it really work just to run, even if all the rest is OK.

[8tg]

1 minute ago, Beerzerker said:

Several things it could be but if the filter is that old, yeah - That can cause it.
I'd also go for a fuel system cleaning, check it's tuneup and possibly even make sure the catalytic converter isn't becoming clogged due to it's age. 
If the engine can't breathe it will not run right and the converter could be making it really work just to run, even if all the rest is OK.

I’m just guessing it’s some age related stuff, fuel system is going to be outright replaced, it’s inexpensive and I don’t trust any of it so pump/lines/filter/rail are all being replaced. I think all in I was quoted $700 to have it all done which I’m down for just to have it all dealt with at once.

Airflow should be fine, new filter, new IAC, throttle body is spotless.

If the cat may be responsible that bitch is getting the hacksaw treatment and replaced with a pipe.

[Bitter]

You clean the airflow sensor?

Could be a weak fuel pump but that's usually more dramatic. That 1.9 just is pretty slow and a rough idler, might just be how it is honestly. They are very sensitive to having all the plugs working 100%, had one with spark jumping to the side instead of the strap that had a lumpy idle and lumpy acceleration. That one also had uneven compression, one cylinder was about 30 psi down from the rear with stuck rings, probably from that cylinder running bad for a long time with the bad plug. Check compression, we soaked the pistons with some magic elixir a few times and it helped a lot.

[Vonrottes]

Picked up the spindles today so I could finally see how much needs to be clearanced for the new caliper bracket.

 

 

[Beerzerker]

Speaking of brake work that's the next project I'll have on the table to do.
Lucky for me it's all disc all around so pads and making sure the rotors are fine is the thing here.

Didn't touch the rear pads last time I worked on them (Front pads only) but will this time for sure.

Still has brakes so there isn't a real rush to get it done but I can tell the pads are getting a tad thin so may as well get that out of the way.

[Radium_Angel]

Got a question for you guys that you might be able to help me with,

 

I picked up a 100 year old typewriter. It's got a great deal of surface rust, but is otherwise functional and intact. Much of the rust I will leave be as "character" but in a few places it's impacting functionality. What do you guys do/use to remove light surface rust from parts?

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Got a question for you guys that you might be able to help me with,

 

I picked up a 100 year old typewriter. It's got a great deal of surface rust, but is otherwise functional and intact. Much of the rust I will leave be as "character" but in a few places it's impacting functionality. What do you guys do/use to remove light surface rust from parts?

How apart are you taking it for the rust removal? Electrolysis *might* work but if it's impacting function and is not in a visible area then mechanical cleaning with a scraper would probably restore function without disturbing the surrounding patina.

[Radium_Angel]

32 minutes ago, Bitter said:

How apart are you taking it for the rust removal? Electrolysis *might* work but if it's impacting function and is not in a visible area then mechanical cleaning with a scraper would probably restore function without disturbing the surrounding patina.

My plan was originally to disassemble (as the eBay listing stated "non-functional") and clean part by part, but when I got it unpacked, it was mostly just very very dirty, like it had been sitting in a barn for many years.

Some of the letter "Arms" are rusty, and they are preventing full range of motion. I oiled all the visible joints for the keyboard, and after a few hours, everything but the letter "B" loosened up enough to function without issue.

So my plan then shifted to just rubbing off the surface rust from everything...if possible. I had considered a dremel with a buffing attachment, but wasn't sure if there was some kind of "rust solvent" that would work better. I dunno, never done something like this before.

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

My plan was originally to disassemble (as the eBay listing stated "non-functional") and clean part by part, but when I got it unpacked, it was mostly just very very dirty, like it had been sitting in a barn for many years.

Some of the letter "Arms" are rusty, and they are preventing full range of motion. I oiled all the visible joints for the keyboard, and after a few hours, everything but the letter "B" loosened up enough to function without issue.

So my plan then shifted to just rubbing off the surface rust from everything...if possible. I had considered a dremel with a buffing attachment, but wasn't sure if there was some kind of "rust solvent" that would work better. I dunno, never done something like this before.

Keep working it with light oil, it'll probably abrade the rust away enough to function on its own. BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB BBBBBBBBB and then see how it works.

[Radium_Angel]

15 minutes ago, Bitter said:

and then see how it works.

Thank you, I will let you know how it goes. Appreciate the help

[Beerzerker]

You could try wiping it with unsweetened lemon juice and see if that makes some of the rust let go.

Yes - The citric acid content in unsweetened lemon juice attacks & dissolves rust but does not hurt the good metal present.

You MUST use straightup unsweetened lemon juice so the chemical reaction to dissolve it works. If it's sweetened or anything else that ruins/changes the chemical composition it has, it will not work.
If you want to try it, get Real Lemon brand or basically anything that's pure unsweetened lemon juice.

It's what I used to unlock the engine in the Model A I've been working on and it worked when other things like trans fluid, diesel fuel and Marvel Mystery oil failed.

In your case it is true you can't submerge the machine in it or you'd see basically all the rust dissolve to a brownish mess you'd just wipe off, but it may remove enough of it to get the key working again.

I'd just wipe some on and let it sit for awhile, then see if any rust comes off when you wipe it.
 

[Radium_Angel]

1 hour ago, Beerzerker said:

In your case it is true you can't submerge the machine in it or you'd see basically all the rust dissolve to a brownish mess you'd just wipe off, but it may remove enough of it to get the key working again.

That would make for a funny video, but I'd fear it'd pull off the "stickers" (pinstriping and copyright info, and logo, etc)

[Bitter]

Aggghhh!

Low side Schrader valve won't seal after I take the coupler off THEN THE HIGH SIDE COUPLER ERUPTS AT 300 PSI SPRAYING 134A GAS AND OIL ALL OVER. Seal on the shaft inside failed so it didn't matter if I tightened it back down or loosened it off ot kept spraying oil and 134a from the gauges. Ended up just working on the low side only and got it done but what a shit show. Thankfully it's just my mom's car while she's out of town but still how annoying. Fully charged AC just in time for the summer heat.

[Beerzerker]

10 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

That would make for a funny video, but I'd fear it'd pull off the "stickers" (pinstriping and copyright info, and logo, etc)

Yeah - That would be a problem.

I'd try it on a spot somewhere and see what effect it has, just wipe a little on and wipe it off a few hours later.

 

 

8 hours ago, Bitter said:

Aggghhh!

Low side Schrader valve won't seal after I take the coupler off THEN THE HIGH SIDE COUPLER ERUPTS AT 300 PSI SPRAYING 134A GAS AND OIL ALL OVER. Seal on the shaft inside failed so it didn't matter if I tightened it back down or loosened it off ot kept spraying oil and 134a from the gauges. Ended up just working on the low side only and got it done but what a shit show. Thankfully it's just my mom's car while she's out of town but still how annoying. Fully charged AC just in time for the summer heat.

I'm glad what I had to do to mine didn't have such going on and at least it works.
Believe it or not I got my compressor from a junk yard, the system it was part of still had freon in it so I know it wasn't moisture contaminated at least. I checked it and the compressor checked "Good" before I started taking it out and that's when it started relieving pressure. Got it out, pulled a vaccum for about 30 minutes and let it sit to see if it held for about an hour, then let the pump run a little longer (30 additional minutes) to make sure as much moisture was drawn out as possible. It held vaccum and even seemed to GAIN vaccum while it was sitting so I know it's not leaking.
Then I flushed the system and installed it, made sure it had the right amount of PAG directly in it and then filled the system.

Works great.

I know that was taking a risk and in my case I didn't have much choice (No real amount of $$ for it) but it was way cheaper than just buying one too.
I'm not suggesting this as what to do or how to go about it but in my case with so little $$ to even attempt it I had to give it a shot - Luckily I know enough about it that finding a good one was easy to do.

If it only lasts for this summer, it's still better than what I had and was cheap enough too - So far it's still working fine with no signs of trouble at all.
I'm cool, I'm happy.
 

[HM-2]

21 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

You could try wiping it with unsweetened lemon juice and see if that makes some of the rust let go.

White non-distilled vinegar is pretty good as a rust removal tool. Small container full of the cleaning grade stuff (£cheap per 5L), throw your parts in and leave it 24 hours. I used it to rust strip a pair of garden shears that I found in the hedge when we bought our house and with regular oiling they look almost as good as new 6 years later. 

[Beerzerker]

If not mistaken it (White Vinegar) will have a tendency to attack certain metals/coatings but yes, it can remove rust too.

[Radium_Angel]

I gave the lemon juice a swing. Works quite well for my modest needs, thank you gang!

[Beerzerker]

I'm glad it worked for you as I thought it would.

[Vonrottes]

Officially part of the big brake gang

Just need to get brake fluid and bleed the brakes.. and get new tires.

 

 

test fit some 245/40 tires on +48 wheels...did not like.

 

The proper +38 wheels with 245/50 tires...hit the inner fenders so I'm gonna try for 245/45

[vetali]

Officially a Hoonduh now.

[Bitter]

16 minutes ago, vetali said:

Officially a Hoonduh now.

I thought that spot of sun was a chicken breast.

[Beerzerker]

1 hour ago, Vonrottes said:

Officially part of the big brake gang

Just need to get brake fluid and bleed the brakes.. and get new tires.

 

 

I noticed in these pics yours appears to have torsion bars instead of coil springs like mine is.
Mine being a 4x4 has to be that way because of the front drive axles - MUCH easier to work with too, certainly was when I had to replace it's ball joints.

I know the ride is different from what a coil spring setup would be but I prefer what I've got in terms of it's ride and ease to work on/with.
I've had two others before, one was an older 83 (Stock) and an 87 Sport with a 350 V8 in it, both had coil springs in them.

Nice work I'm seeing here, I hope it does well for you.

[Vonrottes]

2 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

I noticed in these pics yours appears to have torsion bars instead of coil springs like mine is.
Mine being a 4x4 has to be that way because of the front drive axles - MUCH easier to work with too, certainly was when I had to replace it's ball joints.

I know the ride is different from what a coil spring setup would be but I prefer what I've got in terms of it's ride and ease to work on/with.
I've had two others before, one was an older 83 (Stock) and an 87 Sport with a 350 V8 in it, both had coil springs in them.

Nice work I'm seeing here, I hope it does well for you.

No torsion bars here, 2wd S-series all have Coil over shock, identical to old G-body cars.
I've done Viking coilovers so the coils sit almost entirely inside the spring pocket in the frame.

[Beerzerker]

9 hours ago, Vonrottes said:

No torsion bars here, 2wd S-series all have Coil over shock, identical to old G-body cars.
I've done Viking coilovers so the coils sit almost entirely inside the spring pocket in the frame.

Nice - Didn't see the coils and after looking again they are still "Hidden" but at least now I can tell more about it... And I think I can see a hint of a coil in one of the pics.
I knew at the very least that wasn't a stock suspension setup.

 

If you ever need to see suspension pics of mine for reference one day let me know and I'll make it happen.

[vetali]

15 hours ago, Bitter said:

I thought that spot of sun was a chicken breast.

Maybe a pollen seasoned chicken breast. Never had a car that got this much pollen under the hood.