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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
By techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

Posted

And in here the most common minivan might just be the Chrysler Grand Voyager. It's probably the most popular American car too.

I'm not sure how American the Fords here actually are. At some point at least Ford Europe sold models of it's own here.

Nah, the best selling American car in America is actually the Ford F150. But they claim to be full on American, even though they source engines to Japanese companies, the most well known being the Ford-Mazda joint.

"If it has tits or tires, at some point you will have problems with it." -@vinyldash303

this is probably the only place i'll hang out anymore: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/274320-the-long-awaited-car-thread/

 

Current Rig: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, Abit IN9-32MAX nForce 680i board, Galaxy GT610 1GB DDR3 gpu, Cooler Master Mystique 632S Full ATX case, 1 2TB Seagate Barracuda SATA and 1x200gb Maxtor SATA drives, 1 LG SATA DVD drive, Windows 10. All currently runs like shit :D 

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Still big as fuck in Finland :P

2015-chevrolet-suburban-full-size-suv-mo

Only 570 cm.

 

And in here the most common minivan might just be the Chrysler Grand Voyager. It's probably the most popular American car too.

I'm not sure how American the Fords here actually are. At some point at least Ford Europe sold models of it's own here.

Depending on what car it is, namely the Mustang and F150 are pretty much all built here, they're American.

 

Nah, the best selling American car in America is actually the Ford F150. But they claim to be full on American, even though they source engines to Japanese companies, the most well known being the Ford-Mazda joint.

They haven't done that in a while?

.

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2015-chevrolet-suburban-full-size-suv-mo

Only 570 cm.

 

Depending on what car it is, namely the Mustang and F150 are pretty much all built here, they're American.

 

They haven't done that in a while?

Yeah they have.

"If it has tits or tires, at some point you will have problems with it." -@vinyldash303

this is probably the only place i'll hang out anymore: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/274320-the-long-awaited-car-thread/

 

Current Rig: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, Abit IN9-32MAX nForce 680i board, Galaxy GT610 1GB DDR3 gpu, Cooler Master Mystique 632S Full ATX case, 1 2TB Seagate Barracuda SATA and 1x200gb Maxtor SATA drives, 1 LG SATA DVD drive, Windows 10. All currently runs like shit :D 

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Holy smokes, there is actual car talk in the car thread, I am so excited! I don't check the thread often because I assumed it would just be endless pictures of R34s and such; now I feel I have been missing out :(

 

@AlwaysFSX , is the mustang actually misfiring as if a/f mixture is off or has a weak spark? I ask because even with a bad FIAV, the intake air should still be metered correctly so idle will be all over the place but still fire like it is supposed to. You are describing lots of vibration which leads me to believe IAC might not be the root cause (still could be of course).

 

Are the plugs easy to get to by chance? I always look at all the plugs when trying to diagnose an issue like this to see if there is variation between cylinders. That can rule out multiple causes at once.

 

What is the coil setup? Is it 3 packs on that v6?

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Only 570 cm.

 

 

 

My car in about standard size and it's 438 cm long.

Stock coolers - The sound of bare minimum

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Holy smokes, there is actual car talk in the car thread, I am so excited! I don't check the thread often because I assumed it would just be endless pictures of R34s and such; now I feel I have been missing out :(

 

@AlwaysFSX , is the mustang actually misfiring as if a/f mixture is off or has a weak spark? I ask because even with a bad FIAV, the intake air should still be metered correctly so idle will be all over the place but still fire like it is supposed to. You are describing lots of vibration which leads me to believe IAC might not be the root cause (still could be of course).

 

Are the plugs easy to get to by chance? I always look at all the plugs when trying to diagnose an issue like this to see if there is variation between cylinders. That can rule out multiple causes at once.

 

What is the coil setup? Is it 3 packs on that v6?

I've checked the plugs on the coil pack (image of one on it below) and they're all in the right order and there's nothing out of the ordinary. What happens when it does have this problem is the idle will fluctuate from around 550 to 900 rpms and there will be a good amount of unnatural vibration from the engine. Giving it some gas and even hitting 1k or higher and it's back to it's smooth rotation.

 

116203d1372624793-image-1686427710.jpg

 

My car in about standard size and it's 438 cm long.

Is there really a standard size with us? :P

.

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Is there really a standard size with us? :P

Probably not :D

 

But one good thing about the SUV experience.

It made me want to drive a v8 for some reason.

Stock coolers - The sound of bare minimum

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Holy smokes, there is actual car talk in the car thread, I am so excited! I don't check the thread often because I assumed it would just be endless pictures of R34s and such; now I feel I have been missing out :(

 

@AlwaysFSX , is the mustang actually misfiring as if a/f mixture is off or has a weak spark? I ask because even with a bad FIAV, the intake air should still be metered correctly so idle will be all over the place but still fire like it is supposed to. You are describing lots of vibration which leads me to believe IAC might not be the root cause (still could be of course).

 

Are the plugs easy to get to by chance? I always look at all the plugs when trying to diagnose an issue like this to see if there is variation between cylinders. That can rule out multiple causes at once.

 

What is the coil setup? Is it 3 packs on that v6?

Now that you've arrived

dsm_6.jpg

 

Here's some DSM for the thread :P

====>The car thread<====>Dark Souls thread<====>Placeholder<====
"Life is like a raging river, Its gonna get rough downstream. And people's gonna piss in it" 

"Who discovered we could get milk from cows, and what did he THINK he was doing at the time?"

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I've checked the plugs on the coil pack (image of one on it below) and they're all in the right order and there's nothing out of the ordinary. What happens when it does have this problem is the idle will fluctuate from around 550 to 900 rpms and there will be a good amount of unnatural vibration from the engine. Giving it some gas and even hitting 1k or higher and it's back to it's smooth rotation.

 

Oh shoot, I worded that really poorly. "Are the spark plugs easy to get to?" is what I meant :) If it only takes 10mins to pull them one by one to have a look, I'd go for it. If you need to pull the battery for instance to get to the back ones, maybe not worth the time/effort. If one or two spark plugs is different than the rest however, IAC/MAS/FPR/ or anything that would effect engine operation "globally" can be ruled out.

 

This is a stupid question: are the motor/trans mounts in good shape?

 

What does the exhaust smell like when the problem manifests? Obviously you would need the cat to be hot enough to get any useful info, but if you can smell raw fuel as it is having the issue that would further steer me away from FIAV/IAC being the cause. (Again intake air should still be metered correctly). Vacuum leak very possible, but the issue disappearing after revving to just 1K  leads me to think otherwise. Free revving at 1K would produce even more intake manifold vacuum compared to idle speeds, which would in theory exacerbate the issue if there was a significant vacuum leak and not "fix" it.

 

Does the problem ever go away, like once it is warmed up? Is it intermittent?

 

Oh man issues like this stink! It would be so much easier to diagnose if there was just a hole in the side of your motor :P

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Now that you've arrived

 

 

Here's some DSM for the thread :P

 

OMG my heart just melted :wub: You just made my day :)

 

Those EVO VIII wheels or whatever the hell those are look great on the 1G!

 

Edit: That looks like a 1GA talon ('89-early '92), in which case the "champagne" color of that was my first car (summer of '05 I think). I had a t3/to4b 50 trim and a stupidly large FMIC on it with tonnes of fuel to boot!

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Oh shoot, I worded that really poorly. "Are the spark plugs easy to get to?" is what I meant :) If it only takes 10mins to pull them one by one to have a look, I'd go for it. If you need to pull the battery for instance to get to the back ones, maybe not worth the time/effort. If one or two spark plugs is different than the rest however, IAC/MAS/FPR/ or anything that would effect engine operation "globally" can be ruled out.

 

This is a stupid question: are the motor/trans mounts in good shape?

 

What does the exhaust smell like when the problem manifests? Obviously you would need the cat to be hot enough to get any useful info, but if you can smell raw fuel as it is having the issue that would further steer me away from FIAV/IAC being the cause. (Again intake air should still be metered correctly). Vacuum leak very possible, but the issue disappearing after revving to just 1K  leads me to think otherwise. Free revving at 1K would produce even more intake manifold vacuum compared to idle speeds, which would in theory exacerbate the issue if there was a significant vacuum leak and not "fix" it.

 

Does the problem ever go away, like once it is warmed up? Is it intermittent?

 

Oh man issues like this stink! It would be so much easier to diagnose if there was just a hole in the side of your motor :P

Yeah the mounts are perfectly fine, when it's running normally there's not a lot of vibration. The spark plugs are an absolute bitch to get to and unfortunately I don't have the tools to get to them but I highly doubt they're a problem because they were replaced not too long ago. :P Exhaust smells normal, whether or not the problem goes away when it happens I really don't know because I'm not going to sit for 10 minutes letting it idle. :P Does end up running normally almost all of the time though. It was just yesterday that it had randomly happened a few times out of the blue.

.

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Yeah the mounts are perfectly fine, when it's running normally there's not a lot of vibration. The spark plugs are an absolute bitch to get to and unfortunately I don't have the tools to get to them but I highly doubt they're a problem because they were replaced not too long ago. :P Exhaust smells normal, whether or not the problem goes away when it happens I really don't know because I'm not going to sit for 10 minutes letting it idle. :P Does end up running normally almost all of the time though. It was just yesterday that it had randomly happened a few times out of the blue.

 

Gotcha. I mentioned the mounts because when I had one blow out on me, the motor would vibrate at only very narrow RPM ranges (idle and like 2.9K-3k) and went undiagnosed for a while.

 

Yeah I figured the spark plugs might be a pain to get to. I am sure the plugs themselves are fine like you are saying, I just always look at them when diagnosing an issue because it is super obvious if a specific cylinder in running rich/lean/not sparking.

 

If the problem goes away sometimes and the engine is able to idle without the problem, I think the mounts and the MAS can be somewhat ruled out. I've never experienced an airflow sensor failure that was intermittent (a loose connection could do it though). What kind of MAS is it? Does Ford use a "hotwire" type like GM?

 

Here's a thought, does the FIAV/IAC have coolant lines going to it? Does outside temp seem to affect the frequency of the problem's appearance?

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Gotcha. I mentioned the mounts because when I had one blow out on me, the motor would vibrate at only very narrow RPM ranges (idle and like 2.9K-3k) and went undiagnosed for a while.

 

Yeah I figured the spark plugs might be a pain to get to. I am sure the plugs themselves are fine like you are saying, I just always look at them when diagnosing an issue because it is super obvious if a specific cylinder in running rich/lean/not sparking.

 

If the problem goes away sometimes and the engine is able to idle without the problem, I think the mounts and the MAS can be somewhat ruled out. I've never experienced an airflow sensor failure that was intermittent (a loose connection could do it though). What kind of MAS is it? Does Ford use a "hotwire" type like GM? I haven't the slightest idea.

 

Here's a thought, does the FIAV/IAC have coolant lines going to it? Or for this... Dx Does outside temp seem to affect the frequency of the problem's appearance? 

Temperature didn't effect the problem, happened when it was warm during the day and cold at night. 

.

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try Rockauto.com.

I sorted it out the price mercedes quoted me for the parts was $2100 with out labor

the price I payed from shopping one ebay and parts dealers $400 all total with installation $720

for alternator, airfilters, and vacuum pump

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Here's a thought, does the FIAV/IAC have coolant lines going to it? Does outside temp seem to affect the frequency of the problem's appearance?

Hmm... my Corolla has coolant lines running to the IAC and I have a very rough idle when its below 40F outside.

 

Did I just find my problem?

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"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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My car in about standard size and it's 438 cm long.

Then my "car" is huge :P

07.jpg

One dream, one soul, one prize, One goal, one golden glance of what should be, It's a kind of magic.

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Temperature didn't effect the problem, happened when it was warm during the day and cold at night. 

 

Sometimes the idle controller uses engine coolant temperature (similar to the workings of a thermostat) to open/close the valve (which could get stuck closed when it is supposed to be open).

 

Hmm I'm going to think about this for a while. I have no idea what's going on :P

 

 

Hmm... my Corolla has coolant lines running to the IAC and I have a very rough idle when its below 40F outside.

 

Did I just find my problem?

 

Not sure, the valve should be open when the engine is cold to let more air in=faster idle. If it is stuck closed, it could be your problem but honestly I have no idea.

 

I am most certainly no expert, just an avid automotive enthusiast. :)

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Weekly topic. Regular car reviews. Review your own car in the most unbiased way possible

====>The car thread<====>Dark Souls thread<====>Placeholder<====
"Life is like a raging river, Its gonna get rough downstream. And people's gonna piss in it" 

"Who discovered we could get milk from cows, and what did he THINK he was doing at the time?"

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I sorted it out the price mercedes quoted me for the parts was $2100 with out labor

the price I payed from shopping one ebay and parts dealers $400 all total with installation $720

for alternator, airfilters, and vacuum pump

 

Is this for the 3.0L turbo diesel?

 

If you are having vacuum issues, before you replace the entire cam pump, pull the check valve off the end of the hardline going into the pump and see if it is stuck. The vacuum pump uses engine oil for lube and we all know how sooty diesel oil gets! My boss has like 10 diesel Mercs and I've spent my fair share of time wrenching on them.

 

Since literally almost everything from the transmission to the door locks is controlled by vacuum in some way, I know how important it is keeping that system up to snuff! I was able to "fix" the lack of vacuum on a '79 300d by soaking that check valve in WD40 for a day and cleaning it out.

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Is this for the 3.0L turbo diesel?

 

If you are having vacuum issues, before you replace the entire cam pump, pull the check valve off the end of the hardline going into the pump and see if it is stuck. The vacuum pump uses engine oil for lube and we all know how sooty diesel oil gets! My boss has like 10 diesel Mercs and I've spent my fair share of time wrenching on them.

 

Since literally almost everything from the transmission to the door locks is controlled by vacuum in some way, I know how important it is keeping that system up to snuff! I was able to "fix" the lack of vacuum on a '79 300d by soaking that check valve in WD40 for a day and cleaning it out.

It is E-85- premium and its also a 2009

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It is E-85- premium and its also a 2009

 

Why on Earth does a spark ignition engine need a vacuum pump? The intake manifold is always under vacuum! (Unless that a supercharged engine which would make perfect sense).

 

BTW e85 kicks ass, hard to beat it for forced induction engines for the price.

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vacuum pump on a diesel?

One dream, one soul, one prize, One goal, one golden glance of what should be, It's a kind of magic.

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