Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
geo3

Switch lubing guide.

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

I've responded to more than a couple questions on here about lubing keyboards and since I have my last endeavor documented I though I'd write up a picture guide on how to do it.  I'm not doing it here but you can take this opportunity to do a spring swap if you want. Or even change the stem. You could go from a brown, to a red, to a blue switch, just by swapping the stem and spring. My switches here are Zealios, a special type of tactile Gateron switch similar to an MX Clear.

 

I don't claim this is the definitive method, but it's how I do it and that's worked out pretty well so far. 

 

Fist the tools and links to buy them: Switch openerLubeBrush. It also helps to have a tray to keep loose odds and ends in, like all your removed keycaps.

nNFPKce.jpg

 

Insert the switch openers into the two slots on either side of the switch. This works for Gateron and Cherry for sure, not for Kailh. Can't comment on other brands as I don't own any others.  Also this won't work if you have LEDs that go through the switch unless you desolder the LED first. If you have SMD LEDs (ones that reside under the switch) you should be good.

GR5qQlP.jpg

 

Pry with one tool in toward the switch (not downward but laterally across the keyboard) which will pop up one side.

aCtBuyS.jpg

 

Then flip that tool over and insert it under the switch top. We're not going to pry at all again on this side, it's just there to prevent this side from snapping back together and closing itself again. These guys snap closed really easily.

VQkpIO0.jpg

 

Next pry with the other tool, again across the board, not down or up. The second half will take about twice as much force to get open.

YGqxYbi.jpg

 

It may come off all together or just the top by it self. Just be careful when pulling stuff off that there is no tension on the spring as it can easily shoot itself across the room and disappear forever. 

Here we see just the top has been removed.

kgjL7hZ.jpg

 

Switch top, spring and stem. I put the spring inside the switch top like this so it can't roll away and get lost.

5dQ0MvH.jpg

 

Time to load up some lube on your brush. You just need a very small amount.  This here is probably a little much.

q6qi7v1.jpg

 

First I lube the center post in the switch bottom. This is what the spring rides on. So this step not only smooths out the feel of the switch, but also dramatically reduces pinging sounds from the spring. 

A0KQsKG.jpg

 

Also lube the two channels on either side. This is what the stem rides in. No need to reload your brush at this point.

UOR6VYg.jpg

 

Next lube the under side of the stem where it contacts the spring. Just in the circular channel, you don't need to lube that post. I do reload the brush with some more lube for this step, but only like 25% of what I put on initially. 

9S4vjcv.jpg

 

Now it's time to reassemble. Put the spring in first. It should feel different sliding in that it did coming off. It should feel softer and more velvety now.

9cVt9dx.jpg

 

Put the stem on top of the spring. Make sure the little arms on the stem face the electrical contacts. Those arms are responsible for separating the contacts and are what make the switch work at all. If it's backwards the switch won't operate. 

cgJhzF1.jpg

 

Next put the top back on the stem. The more steeply shaped side of the top should also face the electrical contacts. Press it down gently and it should easiy snap and clip shut. If it's not going on easily don't apply force, something is not aligned up and you might bend the metal contacts. Take it off and double check it's all aligned. 
a265ihy.jpg

 

Once it clips in to place you're done. Move on to the next one. If you get into a real rhythm you should be able to do 1 switch every 45 seconds. Also I use a single key cap to mark my progress so I don't lose my place. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done geo.

I am not a keyboard freak but this could come in handy.


Gaming Mouse Buying Guide (Technical Terms,Optical vs Laser,Mice Recommendation,Popular Mouse Sensor,Etc)

[LOGITECH G402 REVIEW]

I love Dark Souls lore, Mice and Milk tea  ^_^ Praise The Sun! \[T]/

 

 

 

I can conquer the world with one hand,As long as you hold the other -Unknown

Its better to enjoy your own company than expecting someone to make you happy -Mr Bean

No one is going to be with you forever,One day u'll have to walk alone -Hiromi aoki (avery)

BUT the one who love us never really leave us,You can always find them here -Sirius Black

Don't pity the dead,Pity the living and above all those who live without love -Albus Dumbledore

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh my god, thank you so much for this guide. I really needed this.

 

Though I'm worried that my keyboard has LEDs that I would have to desolder, do you think there's a way to lube my switches without firing up the soldering iron? I just haven't soldered ever in the past.


Energy Dragon OTP

You shall not be forgotten

 

The Glorious PSU Tier list is back in action!

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide.

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)
Framepainting-inator: MSI RX 480 Gaming X 8GB (Sometimes as high as 1450 core, 2310 memory) (mining as we speak)

Attachcorethingy: GA-H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333 CAS 9

Computerarmor: CM Elite 360 (Moddded to all hell by now)

Rememberdoogle: 120GB Trion 150 + 1TB WD RE+

AdditionalPylons: Corsair CX450M

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: EVGA Torq X3

Auralnterface: $15 Philips earbuds yay

Liquidrectangles: AOC G2260VWQ6 (Freesync 75Hz), Samsung SMB2030N (1600x900 VGA)

Brother's Computer:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel i3-2100 (carry over from my old build)
Framepainting-inator: GTX 650 Ti

Attachcorethingy: Intel Z68 (don't know anything else, got it from ebay for like $40)

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x2GB 1333MHz C9

Computerarmor: Ashamed to say

Rememberdoogle: 120GB SP550 + 500GB 2.5" from a laptop

AdditionalPylons: Antec Basiq BP350 (not as loud as @STRMfrmXMN says it is)

Letterpad: Logitech MK120 bundle

Buttonrodent: See above

Auralnterface: Hah! You wish

Liquidrectangles: Samsung 1600x900 + LG 1440x900

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
2 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Oh my god, thank you so much for this guide. I really needed this.

 

Though I'm worried that my keyboard has LEDs that I would have to desolder, do you think there's a way to lube my switches without firing up the soldering iron? I just haven't soldered ever in the past.

If for what ever reason you can't open your switch you can get at 2 of the lube points by pressing the switch down all the way. I'm not sure how much of a difference this will make as I think the center post is the most important one. 

IMG_20171223_114240.jpg.6f580f926a6957c3c486180e1571d3c8.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, geo3 said:

If for what ever reason you can't open your switch you can get at 2 of the lube points by pressing the switch down all the way. I'm not sure how much of a difference this will make as I think the center post is the most important one. 

snip

Thanks I will try that :)

 

Ewwww $8.50 international shipping on the lube :/


Energy Dragon OTP

You shall not be forgotten

 

The Glorious PSU Tier list is back in action!

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide.

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)
Framepainting-inator: MSI RX 480 Gaming X 8GB (Sometimes as high as 1450 core, 2310 memory) (mining as we speak)

Attachcorethingy: GA-H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333 CAS 9

Computerarmor: CM Elite 360 (Moddded to all hell by now)

Rememberdoogle: 120GB Trion 150 + 1TB WD RE+

AdditionalPylons: Corsair CX450M

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: EVGA Torq X3

Auralnterface: $15 Philips earbuds yay

Liquidrectangles: AOC G2260VWQ6 (Freesync 75Hz), Samsung SMB2030N (1600x900 VGA)

Brother's Computer:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel i3-2100 (carry over from my old build)
Framepainting-inator: GTX 650 Ti

Attachcorethingy: Intel Z68 (don't know anything else, got it from ebay for like $40)

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x2GB 1333MHz C9

Computerarmor: Ashamed to say

Rememberdoogle: 120GB SP550 + 500GB 2.5" from a laptop

AdditionalPylons: Antec Basiq BP350 (not as loud as @STRMfrmXMN says it is)

Letterpad: Logitech MK120 bundle

Buttonrodent: See above

Auralnterface: Hah! You wish

Liquidrectangles: Samsung 1600x900 + LG 1440x900

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, geo3 said:

Krytox GPL-205 should work. Or search geekhack.org for the exact blend of that lube. It's 2 types of Krytox in a specific ratio.  

Is this it?

Spoiler

image.png.a0d7e8ed8bc91565c3cbb19ed50282bc.png

Thank you so much! My reds just don't feel like reds anymore (after a water spill)


Energy Dragon OTP

You shall not be forgotten

 

The Glorious PSU Tier list is back in action!

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide.

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)
Framepainting-inator: MSI RX 480 Gaming X 8GB (Sometimes as high as 1450 core, 2310 memory) (mining as we speak)

Attachcorethingy: GA-H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333 CAS 9

Computerarmor: CM Elite 360 (Moddded to all hell by now)

Rememberdoogle: 120GB Trion 150 + 1TB WD RE+

AdditionalPylons: Corsair CX450M

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: EVGA Torq X3

Auralnterface: $15 Philips earbuds yay

Liquidrectangles: AOC G2260VWQ6 (Freesync 75Hz), Samsung SMB2030N (1600x900 VGA)

Brother's Computer:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel i3-2100 (carry over from my old build)
Framepainting-inator: GTX 650 Ti

Attachcorethingy: Intel Z68 (don't know anything else, got it from ebay for like $40)

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x2GB 1333MHz C9

Computerarmor: Ashamed to say

Rememberdoogle: 120GB SP550 + 500GB 2.5" from a laptop

AdditionalPylons: Antec Basiq BP350 (not as loud as @STRMfrmXMN says it is)

Letterpad: Logitech MK120 bundle

Buttonrodent: See above

Auralnterface: Hah! You wish

Liquidrectangles: Samsung 1600x900 + LG 1440x900

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, geo3 said:

That's the stuff. Not sure about that price though..... WTF?

That's in mexican peso (MXN), it's more like $20 US for the tube xD


Energy Dragon OTP

You shall not be forgotten

 

The Glorious PSU Tier list is back in action!

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide.

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)
Framepainting-inator: MSI RX 480 Gaming X 8GB (Sometimes as high as 1450 core, 2310 memory) (mining as we speak)

Attachcorethingy: GA-H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333 CAS 9

Computerarmor: CM Elite 360 (Moddded to all hell by now)

Rememberdoogle: 120GB Trion 150 + 1TB WD RE+

AdditionalPylons: Corsair CX450M

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: EVGA Torq X3

Auralnterface: $15 Philips earbuds yay

Liquidrectangles: AOC G2260VWQ6 (Freesync 75Hz), Samsung SMB2030N (1600x900 VGA)

Brother's Computer:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel i3-2100 (carry over from my old build)
Framepainting-inator: GTX 650 Ti

Attachcorethingy: Intel Z68 (don't know anything else, got it from ebay for like $40)

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x2GB 1333MHz C9

Computerarmor: Ashamed to say

Rememberdoogle: 120GB SP550 + 500GB 2.5" from a laptop

AdditionalPylons: Antec Basiq BP350 (not as loud as @STRMfrmXMN says it is)

Letterpad: Logitech MK120 bundle

Buttonrodent: See above

Auralnterface: Hah! You wish

Liquidrectangles: Samsung 1600x900 + LG 1440x900

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
14 minutes ago, JoostinOnline said:

Do you know if this can be done with the Razer BlackWidow Chroma?  It has RGB lighting.

I've never taken apart a Razer board so I don't know. If you can open the switch somehow, then yes.

 

Are your switches the clicky variety? If so lubing the channels on either side may severely dull the click.

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, geo3 said:

I've never taken apart a Razer board so I don't know. If you can open the switch somehow, then yes.

 

Are your switches the clicky variety? If so lubing the channels on either side may severely dull the click.

No, I've got Razer Yellow switches.  It's a copy of the Cherry MX Silver.  I got it because it's less scratchy than the Cherry MX ones, but I can still feel\hear it.  I don't know why it bothers me so much, but it does.  I'm used to membrane keyboards.  I was considering lubing it to help.  My key removal tool doesn't get here for two more days so I don't know if I can open the switch.  So far, I can't find any info about it online.


Make sure to quote or tag me (@JoostinOnline) or I won't see your response!

PSU Tier List  |  How to build a gaming PC for $400US or less   |  The Real Reason Delidding Improves Temperatures

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
8 hours ago, JoostinOnline said:

I got it because it's less scratchy than the Cherry MX ones, but I can still feel\hear it.  I don't know why it bothers me so much, but it does.

This is why a lot of people lube switches. That and ping reduction. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

If I were to remove the switch top along with the spring and stem, could I actually put in a spring and stem from a different switch? Let's say I get a Cherry MX Brown keyboard and I remove the top switch cover and take out the spring and stem as well. Then I take a spring and stem from a Cherry MX Red and put it in the open switch? Will it work or is the metal contacts different for all switches?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, ThiccSon said:

If I were to remove the switch top along with the spring and stem, could I actually put in a spring and stem from a different switch? Let's say I get a Cherry MX Brown keyboard and I remove the top switch cover and take out the spring and stem as well. Then I take a spring and stem from a Cherry MX Red and put it in the open switch? Will it work or is the metal contacts different for all switches?

Yes you can. For the most part the housing and metal contacts should be identical within a manufacturer. And with some manufactures the parts are even interchangeable. Like Gateron and Cherry for example are almost 100% compatible with eachother.  One common thing enthusiasts do is to make Frankenstein switches by combining different switch parts from different manufactures to get a switch with characteristics not otherwise available. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, i lobed my springs and contact points on the stem keyboard felt really good, it felt like more expensive, and after like 5 days keyboard started to having same fell and same sound as before is there any way to prevent grease to like wear out to keep switch lobed for long time?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
3 hours ago, COF1 said:

Hi, i lobed my springs and contact points on the stem keyboard felt really good, it felt like more expensive, and after like 5 days keyboard started to having same fell and same sound as before is there any way to prevent grease to like wear out to keep switch lobed for long time?

What lube did you use? The stuff I used should last years.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Buy VPN

×