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Delons

3D Printing - Models, Tutorials, and Discussion

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Posted · Original PosterOP

3D Printing

 

This is a mega thread containing everything to do with 3D printing. From Models to Asking Questions. It is a community run thread. To add something please fill out the Google Form below. Feel free to post any questions below, or any other discussion about 3D Printing.

 


 

Community Models:

None

 


 

Community Tutorials/Help Articles:

None

 


 

Frequently Asked Questions:

 

No. There are companies such as Shapeways that can print out your models.

 



Make sure you have a sufficient wall thickness on your model before you waste money on printing

Get to know the limitations of the printing process you intend to use

Before you start modelling, make sure your chosen software can output the right kind of file type. I think STL-files are quite common.

 

Before you start modeling, be sure to read up a little on design advice, a good place to start that has a lot of pertinent information would be metal casting forums. You have to get a bit creative for some shapes and hold downs, such as using cross dowels or cage nuts rather than threading the plastic for attachment.

 

 


 

Submit a Model/Tutorials/FAQ: https://docs.google.com/a/gemiv.net/forms/d/1HnhILyNxN5iFmTpEgod1KRhGtmDGvcGxP8qfJdFtupM/viewform

*TUTORIALS AND HELP ARTICLES MUST BE WRITTEN BY YOU, MODELS MUST BE MADE BY YOU, IF NOT CREDIT MUST BE GIVEN*


Desktop: Phenom II 970 BE, Cooler Master V8, Asus M5A97, Sapphire 6870, 320GB HDD, 12GB DDR3, Modded HAF 912, Cosair CX600 V2, CM Trigger MX Blues


 

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I would like to point out that you don't need to own your own 3D-printer. Companies like Shapeways can do the printing for you. You can submit your own models and have them printed. I think there also is a scheme where you can allow others to print your designs for a small fee (paid to you)

 

Edit: A few advices I came to think of (didn't make any sense to make a new post right away)

 

Before you start modelling, make sure your chosen software can output the right kind of file type. I think STL-files are quite common. 

Make sure you have a sufficient wall thickness on your model before you waste money on printing

Get to know the limitations of the printing process you intend to use

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Just to get rid of any doubt, STL is the "standard" format for 3D printing. I've never seen anyone who couldn't use it.

 

Also, I don't recommend building a Reprap, just pay someone like Shapeways. Way less hassle, way better quality, and it really isn't very expensive. I've done a lot of playing around with CNC machines, but I've never had as many problems with them as I have my Reprap (which isn't even finished yet after a year and half).

 

Before you start modeling, be sure to read up a little on design advice, a good place to start that has a lot of pertinent information would be metal casting forums. You have to get a bit creative for some shapes and hold downs, such as using cross dowels or cage nuts rather than threading the plastic for attachment.

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well, Ho did he make that "google form" page? Can i also do it? It's almost the same thing as in the servers page (made by looney)


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COMING SOON

 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

well, Ho did he make that "google form" page? Can i also do it? It's almost the same thing as in the servers page (made by looney)

 

Yup it is. drive.google.com


Desktop: Phenom II 970 BE, Cooler Master V8, Asus M5A97, Sapphire 6870, 320GB HDD, 12GB DDR3, Modded HAF 912, Cosair CX600 V2, CM Trigger MX Blues


 

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Great initiative! Hopefully it'll get contributions and be pinned

 

If someone has a link to an up to date 3D printer roundup that contains all relevant info, I'd be interested.


CPU: Intel 3930K @ 4.6GHz || MOBO: Asus P9X79-E WS || GPU: 2x Nvidia GTX Titans || CASE: Fractal Design Define XL R2 || PSU: Corsair AX1200i


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A costly mistake I did my first time turned out something like this:

 

post-16878-0-80201300-1386702905_thumb.p

Albeit with a lot more detail, I didn't just print out a cylinder. Never the less, It turned out that the support structure added by the printer didn't fully support the walls and the cylinder sagged during the printing

 

Edit: My solution, of course, was to print it standing ;)

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Add more detail into the spoilers.


Main Rig: -FX8150 -32gb Kingston HyperX BLUE -120gb Kingston HyperX SSD -1TB WD Black -ASUS R9 270 DCUII OC -Corsair 300r -Full specs on Profile


Other Devices: -One Plus One 64gb Sandstone Black -Canon T5 -Moto G -Pebble Smartwatch -Nintendo 2DS -G27 Racing Wheel


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Thank you for creating this thread! I'm looking to make a case for my Intel Nuc.

 

Will you be able to print using a software like Blender?

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If it can output STL files, yes you can


Codename: HighFlyer, specs:  CPU: i5 2500k cooled by a H70ish(2 rad)   Mobo: MSI MPower Z77   GPUs: Gigabyte GTX 660 OC 1150 MHZ core, 3150 memory both   RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16G @1600mhz   SSD: ADATA Premier Pro sx900 / HDD Seagate Barracuda 1TB/Samsung 1TB   Power supply: Corsair RM650 80+ Gold   Case Corsair Carbide 500R   5.4 ghz achieved on the good old 2500k, may it rest in peace. Current daily OC is 4.8 @1.41 v

 

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This thread has inspired me to dig out my incomplete Prusa Mendel and do a bit more work on it. I finally got some stepper motors for it, its been sitting for probably two years now with just the frame being assembled.

 

IMG_20140124_225539598.jpg

 

IMG_20140125_124241637.jpg

 

I doubt I will finish it, but I figure I should atleast get all the motors installed, then back to work on the CNC conversion of my ML7 lathe.

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Hi guys.

 

I'll be following this thread. :)

 

Got a 3D printer myself (Solidoodle 2), but i have pre-ordered a Makerbot Replicator (fifth generation) that i will hopefully get in february.

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Im in the process of printing/fitting some cable-covers for the 24pin and the SLI VGA power-cables. Printing two-color, the green PLA i have matches my Mayhems Pastel Mint Green very well. Not sure how it is gonna work out but ill try it and see if i like it,  anyways its always fun designing/building :) Gonna post pics on my build-log in a day or two.

 

1553423_10151885289801901_800750605_o.jp

 

999952_10151885289816901_139597321_n.jpg

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Definitely a fan of the capabilities of 3D printing, allows you so much freedom in terms of shapes and features.  I used it not too long ago to build the entire internal (and most of the external) structure for a case to house an Intel NUC.  It was a great experience and allowed me to use a design that would have been very problematic to produce with other means.  Here are a couple of pictures to show what I mean.

 

rvcq.jpg

 

9age.jpg

 

03kx.jpg

 

Naturally things still required a hefty bit of sanding/painting afterwards, but being able to print it off made a huge difference.


Finished Projects: Loramentum, VesperModerne, ExsectusAetos

Current Project: Parvum Argentum

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Nais :) What plastic did you use or is it powder-print? Is that leather in the middle?

 

Cheers, it's an SLS nylon powder print.  Meant that I could have a surface that was easy to sand down and re-finish, ABS and similar plastics can be pretty tough to work with in that kind of fashion.  The centre is actually burr Vavona veneer, basically just sanded it to 1500 grit or so and then applied a few layers of french polish, rubbing down with linseed oil between layers.


Finished Projects: Loramentum, VesperModerne, ExsectusAetos

Current Project: Parvum Argentum

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1 of the 3D drawing programs i have some experience with ( @Delons : you can add this to the top post if you want)

 

tinkercad-logo-compact.png

- https://www.tinkercad.com/

Make simple things by dragging and dropping shapes: this is aimed at beginners of 3D modelling

pro

  • it will always export to .stl files however you build your things (your drawings wil always be a "solid" object"
  • it can send directly to fabricating sites such as: shapeways, sculpteo, imaterialise, ponoko
  • it works with groups, colors,...
  • the free accounts are fairly extended
  • you can import .stl files
  • scripting (in javascript) appearently is supported
  • it is saved on the cloud (you can open it on any computer with internet acces)

con

  • it is saved on the cloud (you always have to be connected to the internet)
  • the saving, loading and editing of big projects can take a bit of time
  • the camera in bigger builds can be awkward
  • complex/wierd shapes can be hard to build

notes:

-their examples gallery: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/

-the famous autodesk kind of saved tinkercad and now is part of their 123D series. they have a similar online 123D design http://www.123dapp.com/


build log: diagonalmod (RIP?)


i know i use many of these: ( ) and these: ... (i really do... (sry...) ) edit: and edits

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On 12/27/2013 at 2:31 PM, Squashie said:

3D-Printed 140mm EK-fanguard:

 

900x900px-LL-d67cff93_SAM_1278.jpeg

 

For a piece like this, laser cut orange acrylic sheet would be cheaper and faster, and better surface finish.

3D printing is good for prototyping, but not good enough for final product yet.

Modeled in Alias

168447_9amfu6w0pokuxwssmflk8zzom.jpg

 

3D printed at school, sponsored project. Took about a week to print all parts. Wheels are actually laser cut MDF glued together and painted.

168447_bilkvq8hvdd2e699n2sbwzyt5.jpg

 

More information about this project can be found here:

http://www.coroflot.com/Alexander_Ji/Pentair-Pool-Cleaner

 

 

If you are interested in 3D modeling.

https://grabcad.com/library/asus-maximus-iv-impact-and-geforce-gtx-titan-1

A part of something I have been working on.

Other similar things here:

http://grabcad.com/yang.ji-1/projects

 

On 3/16/2014 at 4:23 AM, Squashie said:

Im in the process of printing/fitting some cable-covers for the 24pin and the SLI VGA power-cables. Printing two-color, the green PLA i have matches my Mayhems Pastel Mint Green very well. Not sure how it is gonna work out but ill try it and see if i like it,  anyways its always fun designing/building :) Gonna post pics on my build-log in a day or two.

This would be great. But the finish will not be smooth surface. It can be done with acrylic sheet material and an oven, plus some acrylic welding agent. You will have to paint the stripe though.

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For me laser cutting would not be cheaper because i own a 3D printer and not a laser-cutter ;) You are right about the surface not being as uniform as acrylic would be, but some sandpaper and some elbow-grease will fix that for PLA. For ABS you can get the surface the same as molded-plastic by using acetone-vapor to smooth out the surface. 

 

I did build this in 3mm and 4mm acrylic, heated with hot-air-gun, finished with "glass-fibre-sparkle"(dunno whats its called in english)  and spraypainted flat-black. Gave a really good finish. 

post-34256-0-10061200-1379233703.jpgHavent got a good pic of the finished product but you can see it in my log.

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This is not case related but here's a link for the first ever model I did in Z-brush and some pics of arms I did for a game me and my friend will be working on. A few notes the file became corrupted mid sculpt and f****d up the ear and I couldn't be bothered fixing it and arms/hands are very difficult to do with the fingers being so small and close together that's why it's not very good plus I'm no 3d modler was just giving it a try to fill some free time.

 

 

post-197450-0-72858800-1429369142_thumb.

post-197450-0-88441100-1429369146_thumb.

post-197450-0-24846800-1429369151_thumb.

post-197450-0-21082600-1429369155_thumb.

post-197450-0-99656500-1429369162_thumb.

post-197450-0-50245600-1429369173_thumb.


There are 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary numbers and those who don’t

bulgara, oh nono

Multipass

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