Enthoo Pro M fan setup with Kraken X62

[nanomancer]

Hi everyone, 

 

New user here, and first time building a PC as well. I've been delaying my build because I am unable to decide on optimal fan setup, and was hoping to get some input. 

 

Relevant hardware:

-Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG 

-i7-7700k

-NZXT Kraken X62 

-ASUS STRIX 1080ti 

-ASUS ROG maximus code IX

 

My question is, how should i set up my fans? As it stands I have room for 5 140mm fans, 2 in the front, 2 in the top, and one in the back. I was planning on putting my 280 rad on top as exhaust, with two unimpeded 140mm fans in front as intake, but i am afraid this will give me negative pressure with the back fan also being used as exhaust. I could put 3 120mm fans in front if i remove the ODD enclosure, but i need a blu ray drive. I have 3 Corsair HD 140s (600-1350rpm, 74 CFM) and the 2 stock NZXT fans (500-1800rpm, ??? CFM) that came with the x62. 

 

I was thinking that the radiator fans wont move as much air as the front intakes (obviously they wont, but i dont have any numbers on this), so maybe i could still get positive pressure with this setup, but i would like to have some input from experienced builders before i begin. Any suggestions would be wonderful. 

 

 

 

[ФÐ|invader zim]

doesnt the pro have a mount for a fan by the psu? you could mount there as an intake. give me a min to factcheck myself. edit: it does not have bottum case fan mounts. honestly, id run 2 intakes and the rad and stress test it, if the temps arnt bad, no reason to add more cooling.

 

Edited October 20, 2017 by ФÐ|invader zim
fact checked

[strat guy]

Flip the rear 140 as an intake, solves the -ve air pressure, will help feed the top rad with fresh air as opposed to just the warm air from inside the case, and maybe move a bit of air over the VRMs.

[WoodenMarker]

1 hour ago, strat guy said:

Flip the rear 140 as an intake, solves the -ve air pressure, will help feed the top rad with fresh air as opposed to just the warm air from inside the case, and maybe move a bit of air over the VRMs.

Negative airflow doesn't have any downsides asides from dust buildup. Flipping the unfiltered rear to intake is an invitation for dust.

 

@nanomancer Tweak your rpm curves until you achieve balanced or positive airflow. You can use incense sticks to test whether air is flowing in or out of crevices. 

[strat guy]

51 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

Negative airflow doesn't have any downsides asides from dust buildup. Flipping the unfiltered rear to intake is an invitation for dust.

True, but he could just snap on a dust filter, it might help temps if the rear intake is feeding the rad cool air.

[nanomancer]

I am reluctant to put a dust filter on the back intake and use that fan as an intake, because the gratings around the fan, which will be unfiltered, will also pull air in, thanks to fluid dynamics. I really want positive pressure, because i dont want to have to deal with excessive dust buildup. If I were to use the 4 fans in the top and front as intake, with the front fans set to very low rpm, and the back fan at high rpm, would this give me enough airflow to maintain good internal temperatures? 

[WoodenMarker]

3 minutes ago, nanomancer said:

I am reluctant to put a dust filter on the back intake and use that fan as an intake, because the gratings around the fan, which will be unfiltered, will also pull air in, thanks to fluid dynamics. I really want positive pressure, because i dont want to have to deal with excessive dust buildup. If I were to use the 4 fans in the top and front as intake, with the front fans set to very low rpm, and the back fan at high rpm, would this give me enough airflow to maintain good internal temperatures? 

You should set your intakes to higher rpm than your exhausts for positive airflow. As for your temps, you'll probably have to run moderate fan speeds at load to keep temps low since your components are pretty power hungry. 

[nanomancer]

1 minute ago, WoodenMarker said:

You should set your intakes to higher rpm than your exhausts for positive airflow. As for your temps, you'll probably have to run moderate fan speeds at load to keep temps low since your components are pretty power hungry. 

That makes sense, but do you think a single exhaust fan in the back will be capable of moving enough air to maintain reasonable temps? I would have 4 140mm intakes, 2 pulling air through a rad, and 2 pulling cold air in the front. What you say about having intakes running at higher speed makes sense, that will maintain much higher positive pressure and push air out back gratings as well. 

[WoodenMarker]

21 minutes ago, nanomancer said:

That makes sense, but do you think a single exhaust fan in the back will be capable of moving enough air to maintain reasonable temps? I would have 4 140mm intakes, 2 pulling air through a rad, and 2 pulling cold air in the front. What you say about having intakes running at higher speed makes sense, that will maintain much higher positive pressure and push air out back gratings as well. 

I thought you were going to have the rad at the top for exhaust. 

[nanomancer]

4 hours ago, WoodenMarker said:

I thought you were going to have the rad at the top for exhaust. 

that was the initial plan yes, but i never got a definitive answer as to whether or not that would be capable of giving me positive pressure. is it better to have 2 as intake, 3 as exhaust, and have to mess with fan curves to get +pressure, or to have 4 intakes and a single exhaust? 

[WoodenMarker]

1 minute ago, nanomancer said:

that was the initial plan yes, but i never got a definitive answer as to whether or not that would be capable of giving me positive pressure. is it better to have 2 as intake, 3 as exhaust, and have to mess with fan curves to get +pressure, or to have 4 intakes and a single exhaust? 

Having 3 exhausts and 2 intakes will lead to better temps. You'll have to test for positive airflow.