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Any good routers ?

PandaDroid
Go to solution Solved by Levisallanon,
2 hours ago, PandaDroid said:

Yes, right. I need a more powerful router than the one i have right now

Screen Shot 2017-10-16 at 15.34.03.png

don't forget wifi works both ways, so your rooter might be able to reach the phone but the phone doesn't have a big antenta so it can't reach the router. that's why you probably need to go for a 2 router setup to make sure it doesn't have to penetrate the walls.

I have a big house, like 150 m^2, with soo thick walls, so the wifi signal of my current router can barely do it to the next room, any good router sugestions ?
BTW I own an Edimax BR-6428nC router currently

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Budget? Concerned about security/privacy? 

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if you have a big house, a "wireless router" is a bad (if not terrible) idea.

 

either ditch your current router and go for a non-wireless one, or keep it as one of your access points, then buy additional access points for the rest of the house.

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1 minute ago, manikyath said:

if you have a big house, a "wireless router" is a bad (if not terrible) idea.

Not rally. A system of repeaters or using powerline will get the data through the house just fine. 

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Just now, DrMacintosh said:

Not rally. A system of repeaters or just using the houses wiring will get the data through the house just fine. 

depends on how stuffed the frequencies you're using are, and how thick your walls are.

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Just now, manikyath said:

and how thick your walls are.

I mean unless he lives in a bunker he should be fine

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4 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

Budget? Concerned about security/privacy? 

I live in a village, so the main problem is the coverage, not the speed, nor the security.

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2 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

I mean unless he lives in a bunker he should be fine

The walls are 40cm thick

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1 minute ago, DrMacintosh said:

I mean unless he lives in a bunker he should be fine

you'd be surprised...

 

then again, you're from the states, i'm from a place where they build houses out of many layers of shaped clay.

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So what is your budget and what kind of connection are you receiving now?
What is your current setup?

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3 hours ago, DrMacintosh said:

I mean unless he lives in a bunker he should be fine

In the US we build out of wood. But in many areas of the world they use concrete. So yeah, the OP could live in the bunker. @PandaDroid I would look in to something like @manikyath suggested. AP's have to we wired to the main router. BUT there are power line adapters and moca adapters and they can help with the wiring part if running Ethernet is not an option. 

 

While you might find a better router out there, there is no guarantees with WiFi in terms of range. If doing the above is not possible, try moving your current router in to a more central location of your house, that could help, and put it as high up as you can get it. My sister at one time had a Archer C7 from TPlink that did pretty good range wise, but the issue is, we build out of wood and dry wall here in Michigan. So your millage might vary. 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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First, make sure you use the 2.4Ghz channels, not the 5Ghz one (lower frequency means lower bandwidth, but much more penetrating power/distance).

Second, you might have to use APs to extend the range, there's only so much power you can put into a router before; 1. It violates FCC regulations, and 2. It turns into a microwave.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Just now, pyrojoe34 said:

First, make sure you use the 2.4Ghz channels, not the 5Ghz one (lower frequency means lower bandwidth, but much more penetrating power/distance).

Second, you might have to use APs to extend the range, there's only so much power you can put into a router before; 1. It violates FCC regulations, and 2. It turns into a microwave.

He is not in the US. So the FCC is the least of his worries. Though the Romanian Government might have some issue if he would boost to signal too high.  

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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2 hours ago, Levisallanon said:

So what is your budget and what kind of connection are you receiving now?
What is your current setup?

Right now i have an edimax br-BR-6428nC router, but idk why i don't get the performance promised, neither the coverage. I could put this in the other side of the house, to use it as a range extender, but i need to get the signal there. i'd spend like 50-75 euros on a router

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10 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

He is not in the US. So the FCC is the least of his worries. Though the Romanian Government might have some issue if he would boost to signal too high.  

EU has very similar regulations as the FCC and most companies design their routers to comply with both.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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13 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

He is not in the US. So the FCC is the least of his worries. Though the Romanian Government might have some issue if he would boost to signal too high.  

no issues with the Government.

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20 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

In the US we build out of wood. But in many areas of the world they use concrete. So yeah, the OP could live in the bunker. @PandaDroid I would look in to something like @manikyath suggested. AP's have to we wired to the main router. BUT there are power line adapters and moca adapters and they can help with the wiring part if running Ethernet is not an option. 

 

While you might find a better router out there, there is no guarantees with WiFi in terms of range. If doing the above is not possible, try moving your current router in to a more central location of your house, that could help, and put it as high up as you can get it. My sister at one time had a Archer C7 from TPlink that did pretty good range wise, but the issue is, we build out of wood and dry wall here in Michigan. So your millage might vary. 

I thought about the archer, and i have a 30 day money back guarantee in the store i could buy it from.

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24 minutes ago, PandaDroid said:

Right now i have an edimax br-BR-6428nC router, but idk why i don't get the performance promised, neither the coverage. I could put this in the other side of the house, to use it as a range extender, but i need to get the signal there. i'd spend like 50-75 euros on a router

what else do you have, or is this everything? You have a connection from your ISP comming in and going straight into this "router"?
You will only be able to do a proper speed test if you have a wired connection to see if the speeds your ISP are advertising are true. Wireless adds overhead and when configured poorly will also reduce the speed a lot.

Unless you specify more information I assume you want wireless coverage in all of your house (both floors) and you have a laptop which you take everywhere in the house with you, because that is what your request is hinting at. If anything else please give use more information (like what kind of devices you are using and what kind of workload you are asking for).

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6 minutes ago, Levisallanon said:

what else do you have, or is this everything? You have a connection from your ISP comming in and going straight into this "router"?
You will only be able to do a proper speed test if you have a wired connection to see if the speeds your ISP are advertising are true. Wireless adds overhead and when configured poorly will also reduce the speed a lot.

Unless you specify more information I assume you want wireless coverage in all of your house (both floors) and you have a laptop which you take everywhere in the house with you, because that is what your request is hinting at. If anything else please give use more information (like what kind of devices you are using and what kind of workload you are asking for).

It's about the phones. i use a wired connection with my laptop. 

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Just now, PandaDroid said:

It's about the phones. i use a wired connection with my laptop. 

are you using VoIP phones which need a steady connection? If so you probably need a router which supports QoS to make sure the VoIP traffic gets priority.
Or is it just smartphones which you also want to have wifi?

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Just smartphones. I go in the other room and i have 0 wifi access ( 10-15 M away from the router ) 

 

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1 minute ago, PandaDroid said:

Just smartphones. I go in the other room and i have 0 wifi access ( 10-15 M away from the router ) 

 

Could you maybe draw/provide a simple floorplan (drawn in paint is good enough for me) where we can see the different rooms etc.
You probably need multiple access points to make sure you have coverage in your whole house, but to determine how many etc I would need to see a floorplan. Please also draw where your current router is positioned and where you do and don't get a connection.
Also to get even better advice it would be good to know if there is a seperate modem which is provided by your ISP (some box which probably takes a coax/phone or optic fiber cable as input and gives the normal ethernet cable as output).

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Okay, so the room where the modem and the router are is my current room, the outside of the house is isolated so i can barely get wifi outside. Moving the router and the modem is not an option currently

Screen Shot 2017-10-16 at 15.06.40.png

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3 minutes ago, PandaDroid said:

Okay, so the room where the modem and the router are is my current room, the outside of the house is isolated so i can barely get wifi outside. Moving the router and the modem is not an option currently

Screen Shot 2017-10-16 at 15.06.40.png

if you can't move the router then you will probably need an extra one. Picking up a new router might give you better range in the rooms you have wifi already, but I doubt it will be able to reach the room in the bottom right corner.

Your best option would be to move the router to the central room/hallway, but if that's not an option I would personally see if you are able to have a wire go to the room above the bottom right room and install a second Access point here. this should give you coverange in all your house. Especially if you are able to move the other router a bit more to the bottom right corner of the room it is in now.
You want to put a network cable (cat5e or higher) in one of the LAN ports (yellow ones) of your current router and run this cable to the new router. You can choose if you put it in the WAN port, if you do this you need to set up a different DHCP range and you can isolate it from the other AP, I don't think you want this. So you can put it in bridge mode (that's how it's often called, it could also be called access point mode) and then probably it needs to be inserted in the LAN ports on this router, but that depens on the device itself. It doesn't really matter that much which router you pick, you can even search for access points which often are a bit cheaper.

If running a network cable doesn't work for some reason you could see if you can use Ethernet over Power, where you use your powerlines to cary the signal to another wall output and pick it up again here. These devices do have a speed limitation (the high end ones I believe go up to 500 mbit) so if you are reliant on a fast internal network (for example if you are using a nas etc) you might want to look into running that cable anyways.

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