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Goa´uld Al´Kesh [scratch build]

CapTen
img_6049.png
 
The
 
 
Goa´uld Al´Kesh
 
 
is a space ship of the bomber class from the TV series Stargate SG1.
What is there to say?
 
 
 
 
Designation: Al'kesh
Builder:Goa'uld
Class:Bomber
First appearance:SG1_04x22SG1 4x22 Exodus
Sheath material:Naquadah
Hyperdrive:interstellar
Arming:Goa'uld-Gun,Goa'uld-Bombs
Defense:Goa'uld-shield
Sensors:Goa'uld-Sensors
Other systems:escape pod,ring Transporter,Camouflage shield (optional)
 
 
As a big Stargate fan I always wanted to have one of the spaceships.
Unfortunately it is very rare in the series and since the game there, every Alkesh looks different.
So just the right thing to let my creativity run wild.
Sometimes I do not even like the original right so I build the Al`kesh as I see it.
The Al'kesh was supposed to be a functional ITX system, and the rest would be inspired by Stargate
 
In this sense: Shal'kek nem'ron ('I die free!')
 

Hardware
CPU: Intel Core I7 6600K
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
VGA: MSI GTX 1070 AERO ITX
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
PSU: Enermax Revolution SFX 550W
Fan: 2 x Enermax T.B.RGB

 

Cooling
Bitspower custom water cooling

 
 
 
in advance two pictures of the hardware which is installed.
Since I am still not sure how or how much I get into the case
I've sent the AERO ITX carefully to Alphacool to let me make a suitable water cooler for it.
Unfortunately there is not yet one on the market for the MSI VGA.
 
k-IMG_1017.jpg
 
k-IMG_1010.jpg
 
I would like to thank you very much to
 

MSI

Ballistix

Bitspower

Enermax

 
since they support me so energetically in this Project
 
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Oooooo.... spaceships + PC = awesomness! 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Awww the GPU & Motherboard look so cute and tiny ha ha xD 

 

kind of makes me want to go all out ITX in a Thermaltake X71 when it comes to my next rig now just for lols xD

I once did the unthinkable, back many headphones ago...

I split an audio split, again

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  • 5 months later...

Now it's going on again.
 

As previously mentioned I've sended the VGA to Alphacool, which arrived there at the beginning of 10/2017. As a hint, I should calculate with 20 days for the mapping. (ca. 11/2017) and 8-12 weeks manufactoring, so max 01/2048 - 03.2018.
 

The VGA was sended back short before Christmas, on demand, they couldn't give me an Answer about the further term, so I have to school myself in patience.
 

In my assessment I've asked them again in January, but I'm not able to find the email for it. My last request was at the 27.02.2018 but since Christmas I'm not getting any replies.
 

But because MSI and Crucial/Ballistix are trust in me, which I've already strained in my Opinion, I needed to orienteering me otherwise.
 

And see there I was able to find a fitting VGA Cooler at Bitspower and could convince them to support my Project.
 

That opens me of course an other possibility to even adapt the Watercooling on the typical Goa`uld Al`kesh Colors.

But see for yourself
 

499.jpg

 

The acerbity of course was, no sooner as Bitspower sended out the Packet to me, it was honestly the same day 14.03.2018 (Big Brother is watching you and so), if got a reply from Alphacool. Sorry etc.
 

Very well then I've now two Cooler Super. :klatsch:
 

Well now, let's start.
 

As first step, I've builded on my own a Styroporcutter, more flexible as a table and hand device. I don't need to say a lot about it I think. All right, working with the water level, cause with bevel cuts I can't work.
 

k-500.jpg
 

Here the auxiliary solution to stretch the Wire
 

k-501.jpg

 

And here the fixture to make it able to use the hole thing also as Hand device/ lance.
 

k-502.jpg

 

Now I've got two Styroporplates in 100x50x16cm. At first I wanted to glue them together to get enough height for building but meanwhile one plate is enough. So first a fitting egg was cutted.
 

k-IMG_2390.jpg
 

And the the Lance unplugged and worked securely with free hands. How it is at all works, a bit less cutting then to much.
 

k-IMG_2391.jpg
 

Now it's go further with 40er and 60er sandpaper, that works really well. With this result I haven't thought, apart from that mess.
 

k-IMG_2393.jpg

 

So step by step I fumble my way to the Form that delight me.
 

k-IMG_2394.jpg
 

k-IMG_2395.jpg
 

k-IMG_2396.jpg
 

As far as good, now I started to sister the different layers from the Al`Kesh. For that you use preferably thick construction paper for it.
 

k-IMG_2398.jpg

 

Everything somehow compromises but only these makes imaginative. How a painter just is, he's thinking that filler will do its best, but the more the better is the working now, as less level out is needed later.
 

k-IMG_2400.jpg
 

k-IMG_2401.jpg
 

k-IMG_2402.jpg

 

False sequence sorry but here is the Material that I organized for it. I will comment in the next working steps.
 

k-IMG_2403.jpg

 

To get a stand clear gap and to hamper the contact between the polyester resin and the Styropor (it would decay in a short time) I've insert a 3mm thick PE Tube in the side.
 

k-IMG_2404.jpg
 

k-IMG_2405.jpg
 

Now only the Back. I've thought everything would went easier/faster but that is making a DIY’er out.
 

k-IMG_2406.jpg
 

I didn't know how the Polyester Resin would react with the duct tape, so ever duct tapes and gaps would glued more with paper and instantglue
 

k-IMG_2407.jpg

 

and so its begin, the hole paper covered in a deep layer of Polyester Resin and then carefully dap little strips weaves on it. not spreading just dapping that the Strips won’t move.
 

In the same way the spreading would tear down the weaves.
 

The Weaves draws full of the resin from alone.
 

During the work the resin will begin gelation and you can dap the next mixture on it or the remaining Material until the Weaves are completly embedded.
 

k-IMG_2408.jpg

 

Because the work with the Paper became silly i’ve tried on trail to paint the sides with wall color to get a seperation between the Polyesterresin and the Styropor. That was really marginal, as the Weaves was on it, i saw the Styropor began to wind up. Phew saved by the bell.
 

k-IMG_2409.jpg
 

k-IMG_2410.jpg

 

To reach the most highest stability I've choose two Polyester putty knifes. One rude fibre-reinforced and a fine Polyester putty knife.
 

Here the rude one. He is remove the biggest surface irregularities.
 

k-IMG_2411.jpg
 

k-IMG_2412.jpg
 

Groundhog Day. For Days always the same work steps by a processing time of 2-5 min, nerves after a time but as Painter it's buisness as usual.
 

Blending - processing - cleaning tools - smoking break :D
 

k-IMG_2413.jpg

 

Time for the next Layer: the Cap
 

k-IMG_2414.jpg
 

k-IMG_2415.jpg
 

k-IMG_2416.jpg
 

k-IMG_2417.jpg
 

k-IMG_2418.jpg

 

The Cap was painted with Polyester Resin so it can reach the right form. The process of gelation is going on fairly quick,os you can take an eye on the dry process. It was fixed with assembly adhesive out of the cartridge. At the Borders I watched out that it isn't gluing with the spaceship. I went regularly along the sites with a boxcutter.
 

The resin which was to much I painted on the Spaceship, like you can see.
 

k-IMG_2419.jpg
 

k-IMG_2420.jpg
 

Now I've coated both side of the Cap with GRP Weaves. I two working process for sure. It gelate fast but is hardened first after 12h. It depends on how good you mix it. To observe the presets is really important. I've mostly mixed with Syringes of 50-100ml but how you think a lot helps a lot, that's not the fall here. To much hardened can extend the dry time fastly to more then 24h. I've looked a bit silly out of the clothes xD

Temperature is important like at varnish minimum 20°+.
 

k-IMG_2421.jpg
 

k-IMG_2422.jpg
 

Okay this is going to explode the picture limit.
 

A weekly update is verified herewith :)
 

See you next time!!
 

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To me it just looked like you were putting a pair or pants on an over sized pebble xD Very nice work fittings color! Good luck with the build :D

I once did the unthinkable, back many headphones ago...

I split an audio split, again

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xD Thx
 
Hi!
 
after I covered everything with the fine polyester knife it went to the bottom.
Exactly the same procedure as above
 
k-IMG_2423.jpg
 
k-IMG_2424.jpg
 
k-IMG_2425.jpg
 
k-IMG_2426.jpg
 
k-IMG_2428.jpg
 
Now the Back had to be straightened, but I needed a guide rail.
 
k-IMG_2429.jpg
 
Paper helps very well as a ruler replacement if you want to cut polystyrene,
So I cut the shape of the spacecraft from construction paper and taped it on styrodur, and cut it out.
 
k-IMG_2430.jpg
 
k-IMG_2431.jpg
 
Now I had a straight line to fix the paper strips and then brush with polyester resin.
 
k-IMG_2432.jpg
 
k-IMG_2433.jpg
 
the same on the bottom
 
k-IMG_2434.jpg
 
k-IMG_2435.jpg
 
Now I could cover everything with the polyester putty.
 
Now it was time to determine the perfect shape for the pyramid.
First try with paper.
 
Nooo that Looks not good :P
 
k-IMG_3439.jpg
 
second try :  is better.  :thumbsup:
Nice snappy in the front and a fat back to look inside.
The pyramid is later built from plexiglas :rock:
 
k-IMG_3440.jpg
 
k-IMG_3441.jpg
 
first template i built from wood
 
k-IMG_3442.jpg
 
What do you think about the form?
 
k-IMG_3443.jpg
 
k-IMG_3443a.jpg
 
Now I can cut everything up
marked
 
k-IMG_3444.jpg
 
remove cover carefully
 
k-IMG_3449.jpg
 
Hole drilled
 
k-IMG_3450.jpg
 
and cut out, after that I began to fill the underside.
 
k-IMG_3451.jpg
 
After cutting the spaceship, the whole thing looked like this.
 :lol:
 
k-IMG_3453.jpg
 
Unfortunately I did not have a picture of the empty interior at this time.
But i have posted a Video onFacebook .
But as it looks exactly then you see in the next post :P
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Hello and Happy Easter!
This time a monster update.
 
I have a lot tube remains but nothing fits for a engine
 
k-_MG_3509.jpg
 
I found 4 feets for shop shelves
 
k-_MG_3510.jpg
 
and yeah I think that suits.
 
k-_MG_3511.jpg

k-_MG_3512.jpg 
 
k-_MG_3513.jpg
 
k-_MG_3514.jpg
 
and lenses to illuminate each engine from the inside
 
k-_MG_3529.jpg
 
k-_MG_3530.jpg
 
Then the Ballistix Sport LT.
I remove the decals and cooler. 
I closed the holes with aluminum kit
 
k-_MG_3504.jpg
 
k-_MG_3505.jpg
 
k-_MG_3507.jpg
 
paint in Gold
 
k-_MG_3508.jpg
 
and glued them with thermal adhesive
 
k-_MG_3582.jpg
 
i cut out 3mm Alu for the Riser Cable.
 
k-_MG_3515.jpg
 
k-_MG_3516.jpg
 
k-_MG_3518.jpg
 
and glued with GRP 
 
k-_MG_3520.jpg
 
k-_MG_3522.jpg
 
I noticed that I forgot a level on the bottom.
 
k-_MG_3523.jpg
 
k-_MG_3524.jpg
 
k-_MG_3525.jpg
 
k-_MG_3526.jpg
 
k-_MG_3527.jpg
 
k-_MG_3528.jpg
 
Unfortunately, it has slipped by 2 mm
 
k-_MG_3532.jpg
 
k-_MG_3533.jpg
 
finally the radiators arrived
 
k-_MG_3534.jpg
 
cut out 
 
k-_MG_3537.jpg
 
i like it
 
k-_MG_3538.jpg
 
The point why i used 2 120mm rads and no 240
 
k-_MG_3539.jpg
 
then i glued the rads with epoxy and the poylester resin
 
k-_MG_3542.jpg
 
brood brood- Power Supply Ventilation - Transporter Rings, Dr Watson Combine! :rofl:
 
k-_MG_3544.jpg
 
k-_MG_3546.jpg
 
Hahaha YES!
For the holder 2 alu angle i used.

k-_MG_3549.jpg
 
fixed with fiber-rainforced knife
 
k-_MG_3550.jpg
 
and then with GRP
 
k-_MG_3557.jpg
 
k-_MG_3559.jpg
 
As a dust filter I've cut out a circle from an old mesh
 
k-_MG_3562.jpg
 
bend arround the tube
 
k-_MG_3563.jpg
 
k-_MG_3564.jpg
 
k-_MG_3565.jpg
 
and glued with Acrifix R192.
 
k-_MG_3568.jpg
 
now the hinge mechanism
 
k-_MG_3569.jpg
 
 3mm Alu for the shipside.
 
k-_MG_3570.jpg
 
everything was as large as possible placed in GRP as usual
 
k-_MG_3571.jpg
 
k-_MG_3572.jpg
 
now i marked the layer for the MB tray
and used two small alu angle
 
k-_MG_3575.jpg
 
these where fixed with fibreglas-rainforced putty and painted with polyester resin  
 
k-_MG_3576.jpg
 
k-_MG_3577.jpg
 
Good you are now up to date.
Yesterday I started customizing the MB Tray but more about it next time.[/
CENTER]
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Neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrd.

 

 

(JK, that's really cool)

it's time

 

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my two favourite things! Stargate and ITX builds! Looks like its going to be an amazing case :D 

 

Folding stats

Vigilo Confido

 

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Tek´ma´tek Tauri!
 
Now it went to the MB tray.
To measure it, I just measured every two inches from the center
and put me on the tray points.
 
k-_MG_3578.jpg
 
k-_MG_3579.jpg
 
so I could accurately as possible to cut the aluminum.
 
k-_MG_3586.jpg
 
now the riser card 
 
k-_MG_3587.jpg
 
and cut the threads for it
 
k-_MG_3588.jpg
 
then all holes and spacers were set
 
k-_MG_3621.jpg
 
now it went to the cockpit
I just played something with Plexiglas to see where that leads.
 
k-_MG_3589.jpg
 
k-_MG_3590.jpg
 
k-_MG_3591.jpg
 
So I started sticking together piece by piece
 
k-_MG_3592.jpg
 
yes its okay
 
k-_MG_3597.jpg
 
k-_MG_3598.jpg
 
Next, I have a mini-hinge, generously with the Acrifix, glued into the pulpit and cut on the ship's side a thread in the large hinge (M1.5)
 
k-_MG_3612.jpg
 
k-_MG_3614.jpg
 
Now I have the pages straightened and ready.
With the pulpit I now have a small hinge which hides the big hinge
:stupid::rofl:
 
k-_MG_3615.jpg
 
So now the flop at all.
Last week I built landing skids. But the fit absolutely not to the spaceship
 

So they come in the showcase.
I need another solution for that
. :wall:
 
k-_MG_3609.jpg
 
At some point I have to do it, I also want to finally install gas spring for the lid but without the pyramid, the lid is still too unstable.
Lets go
 
k-_MG_3616.jpg
 
 
First attempt went wrong but so I can practice gluing something
 
k-_MG_3619.jpg
 
k-_MG_3620.jpg
 
 
Next, I will prepare the plates for gluing.
Thank you all.
Until next time
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Beautifuuuuulllll! If you were to cast it in resin and just sell kits I'd definitely get one :P 

Reminds me why I love seeing good scratch builds!

Folding stats

Vigilo Confido

 

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Thanks, well, we'll see what it looks like when it's done. 9_9

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Hello ,

All cut surfaces were sanded and deburred
 
k-_MG_3628.jpg
 
then cleaned and masked with polyester adhesive tape and glued.
 
k-_MG_3632.jpg
 
Of course, the first attempt went awry. When masking I kept the scalpel too oblique, so the gap was too big and I could only remove the excess adhesive by force.
I even had a fugue apart, well that was somehow clear.
So second try.
 
k-_MG_3634.jpg
 
second attempt was actually okay except for a minimal blistering
 
k-_MG_3637.jpg
 
So I tried it a third time.
But that was even worse, I use number 2
 
k-_MG_3658.jpg
 
Now I've packed the pyramid clean again for all subsequent operations and cut out the shape of the spaceship
 
k-_MG_3662.jpg
 
Then the spaceship so that the pyramid fits in perfectly
 
k-_MG_3663.jpg
 
so that the adhesive and the filler form any unwanted reflections I have all cut edges painted gold.
Then inserted the pyramid and puttied all the gaps again.
 
k-_MG_3666.jpg
 
finally progress :cool:
 
k-_MG_3667.jpg
 
In addition, I built an IO shield for the motherboard.
Which form suits the concept best?
Right, a goa´uld sarcophagus.
For this I cut some aluminum
 
k-_MG_3642.jpg
 
and bend it in shape
 
k-_MG_3646.jpg
 
For the outer curves fits 16er tubes
 
k-_MG_3648.jpg
 
For the circles I took 5mm Plexiglas
 
k-_MG_3649.jpg
 
I then glued the pipes liberally with the glass fiber spatula and then brushed it with polyester resin
 
k-_MG_3650.jpg
 
k-_MG_3651.jpg
 
k-_MG_3652.jpg
 
k-_MG_3657.jpg
 
then small aluminum strips were cut and folded.
Now I've stuck everything with epoxy glue on IO-Shield and set a few decals.
 
k-_MG_3659.jpg
 
and painted.
 
k-_MG_3661.jpg
 
Hahahah :banana: like it
especially since the motherboard remains fully functional, back is open and all ports are fully accessible on the board
 
So let's see how far I am next time! :cool:
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Your techniques are unique but the results are exquisite. You have some serious creativity genes!

Jeannie

 

As long as anyone is oppressed, no one will be safe and free.

One has to be proactive, not reactive, to ensure the safety of one's data so backup your data! And RAID is NOT a backup!

 

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i see melting with the acrylic in the scroll saw, your using extruded acrylic most likely from home depot/lowes huh?  Try Mifflin acrylic on amazon, it arrives in 2 days, is cheap high quality cast acrylic. Im using it a ton on my build. 

 

Can wait to see more!

 

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22 hours ago, Lady Fitzgerald said:

Your techniques are unique but the results are exquisite. You have some serious creativity genes!

Thank you, no room for more or better tools. ;)

1 hour ago, vegaspimp22 said:

i see melting with the acrylic in the scroll saw, your using extruded acrylic most likely from home depot/lowes huh?  Try Mifflin acrylic on amazon, it arrives in 2 days, is cheap high quality cast acrylic. Im using it a ton on my build. 

 

Can wait to see more!

 

Hi thx yes i know, forgot to say.

They were leftovers from the hardware store (extruded acrylic, XT in german).

The pyramid was build with mifflin acrylic (GS).Its better to glue and cut.

But in the scroll saw was it not melting, it was water for better cooling. But you are right :)

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Hello,
 
The first thing I noticed in this photo was that something was wrong on the IO-Shield.
I did not notice the tinkering, although I had marked lines was the lettering good 5mm wrong.
I was maybe a little annoyed because the font for the plotter was too small.
 
 
 
k-_MG_3661.jpg
 
okay fixed
 
k-_MG_3661a.jpg
 
Now it was up to the CPU cooler.
Unfortunately, this time nothing fit.
The socket screw was in the way, so I had to adjust that a bit.
 
k-_MG_3669.jpg
 
To use the M2 SSD, I also had to shorten the backplate by a few Millimeters.
 
k-_MG_3674.jpg
 
From the pyramid, I have now cut out the window.
It was rather modest, so I had to file and grind a lot afterwards.
 
k-_MG_3675.jpg
 
for fear of breaking anything I had to examine the glass for scratches and damage.
But as far as I can see nothing is broken.
 
k-_MG_3679.jpg
 
Now it went to the gas pressure damper.
For this I cut two brackets made of aluminum
 
k-_MG_3680.jpg
 
then have the holes drilled and fixed the whole with the fiber-reinforced polyester putty.
 
k-_MG_3684.jpg
 
k-_MG_3687.jpg
 
Now everything was embedded again with GRP .
 
k-_MG_3688.jpg
 
k-_MG_3692.jpg
 
to test something I then decided for 2x40N gas spring.
That means that the lid and the Al'kesh weigh 8kg each time.
Since the whole upper part was still a bit unstable for me, I spent most of the last week with it
to reinforce the entire interior and then smooth spatula. That was a shit I tell you because everything is round.
 
k-_MG_3693.jpg
 
The gas pressure damper I painted gold, the tube itself is then gold chrome foils, matching the tubes and Fittings.
 
k-_MG_3695.jpg
 
Soooo what can not be missing in an Alkesh?
A Goaúld bomb for self-destruction
:stupid:
 
k-_MG_3695a.jpg
 
The best way to do that is by deep-drawing so first of all a mold had to be made.
When digging in my wood waste box, I found these two sections quite well.
 
k-_MG_3696.jpg
 
So I put these on a threaded rod and, like a glassblower, carefully guided it to the stand grinder.
 
k-_MG_3698.jpg
 
then the same on the lower part
 
k-_MG_3700.jpg
 
Then I put both together. With a little sanding dust and wood glue you can easily stir a putty together.
 
k-_MG_3701.jpg
 
k-_MG_3702.jpg
 
The bomb can still wait, for the thermoforming box is currently no place.

On to the interior, the flair of a spaceship should reflect itself again inside.
First, the view must disappear to the PSU.
With a little cardboard I could create a template to put two walls of Plexiglas.
Just as big as the PSU fits through and I can plug in the cables behind it.
They then only dress up the visible area so that I can lay cables under the walls
 
 
k-_MG_3703.jpg
 
short test, is still working
 
k-_MG_3706.jpg
 
in front of the PSU comes a hinged door which I bent a short hand from Plexiglas.
 
k-_MG_3709.jpg
 
This then closes flush with the Alkesh.
 
k-_MG_3711.jpg
 
Since I am very reluctant to start the circular saw during the week, I have cut the pillars for the interior at the weekend.
First cut 8mm Plexiglas in 1cm strips.
 
k-_MG_3712.jpg
 
then fastened with tape and put a 3mm deep cut every 15mm.
 
k-_MG_3714.jpg
 
k-_MG_3715.jpg
 
yes i like it, to be continued
 
k-_MG_3717.jpg
 
In the mainboard tray I have now the last holes for pipes, res, USB3.0 and HDMI cable set.
 
k-_MG_3722.jpg
 
And today I started to cut the first pillars.
 
k-_MG_3723.jpg
 
Okay, thank you until next time.
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On 10/10/2017 at 11:36 PM, Zandvliet said:

Stargate means followed!

Definitely! (If you check my sig you'll see my naming preferences show I'm an SGC loyalist.) xD

DAEDALUS (2018 Refit) - Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 - 1600 @ 3.7Ghz // Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED Turbo Black Edition // Motherboard: Asus RoG Strix B350-F Gaming // Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce 6GB GDDR5 // Memory: 2 x 8GB DDR4 Corsair LPX Vengeance 3000Mhz // Storage: WD Green - 250GB M.2 SATA SSD (Boot Drive and Programs), SanDisk Ultra II 120GB (GTA V), WD Elements 1TB External Drive (Steam Library) // Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W // Case: BeQuiet Silentbase 600 with SilentWings Mk.2 Internal Fans // Peripherals: VicTop Mechanical Gaming Keyboard & VicTsing 7200 DPI Wired Gaming Mouse

 

PROMETHEUS (2018 Refit) - Processor: Intel Core i5-3470 @ 3.2Ghz // Cooler: Cooler Master 212 EVO // Motherboard: Foxconn 2ABF // Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD 5450 (For Diagnostic Testing Only) // Memory: 2 x 4GB DDR3 Mushkin Memory // Storage: 10TB of Various Storage Drives // Power Supply: Corsair 600W // Case: Bitfenix Nova Midi Tower - Black

 

SpeedTest Results - Having Trouble Finding a Decent PSU? - Check the PSU Tier List!

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Sooo let's go on.


There will be a lot to report after this weekend :cool:

Where do I start?
I pretty much worked on all areas in parallel, but sorted the images by topic to keep things more manageable.
The drives were finally fastened.

k-_MG_3735.jpg

Since the fiber putty is hard after 5min I held each drive individually in position and lubricated from the inside the putty with finger on it.
I actually wanted to be able to remove it and glue it at the end, but it was not necessary. After the second fiber putty operation, they held up very well

k-_MG_3736.jpg

Then I came up with a brilliant idea.
For the drive I have cut 4 rounds of 1cm Plexiglas

k-_MG_3749.jpg

the edges thereafter roughly chamfered by the router and not ground on purpose but only slightly polished.
The effect fits very well when all lights up

k-_MG_3763.jpg

after that I prepared the original light guide plate and the new one for gluing

k-_MG_3765.jpg

and glued to the Acrifix R192. Of course this worked right away (almost where it does not matter :wall: )

k-_MG_3769.jpg

The result, unprocessed, perfect. No bubbles no cracks. I do not expect anything more. :heul:

k-_MG_3770.jpg

Now the impression that I imagined :banana:

k-_MG_3772.jpg

Then I started yesterday to put the holes for the LEDs and glue these.
3mm blue concave

k-_MG_3784.jpg

Part 2. The bomb
Now I could finally dig out the thermoforming box and deep pull the bomb.
If someone wants more details just let me know. ;)

k-_MG_3751.jpg

k-_MG_3752.jpg

after I cut out the bomb with scissors and sanded it reasonably straight.
Have I set a clean cut to the desired height with the Proxxon tool.

k-_MG_3753.jpg

Coooooool

k-_MG_3754.jpg

then I cut a ring on which I can then stick a LED stripe

k-_MG_3755.jpg

k-_MG_3756.jpg
Now I painted both from the inside without a primer black, because as I said, the green does not fit into the concept.
I've got 4-5 photos of the bomb or Al'kesh control panel here and only one of them is green. The others are all black.
Also, each has different symbols.

k-_MG_3760.jpg

Which brings me to the next point.
I could not find a direct font for Goa'uld writing.
There are either only the gate symbols or it is referred to one of the many ancient Egyptian scriptures.
None of them would be eligible for the bomb.
I had then first made a few decals with the ancient script which I was also allowed to manually trace but that did not look good.
So I traced the font from the photo of the last post and used it.
Luckily, I could see just 10 icons to assign them 10 LEDs.

k-_MG_3774.jpg

Part 3. The holder second try

The basic idea was already in my head for a while, but I still lacked the final attachment to the Alkesh itself.
As usual, "hit it and get started" I've just built it and I do not think it's that bad.
1. Create an ellipse and half close it to the circle.
This then cut out of 8mm extruded Plexiglas

k-_MG_3738.jpg

Then with the router all edges chamfered to 4mm.

k-_MG_3740.jpg

Now I cut a 4cm Plexiglas rod at 20 degrees.

k-_MG_3743.jpg

the whole is then glued to the base plate

k-_MG_3744.jpg

Now the support surface for the Alkesh.
Also cut here 8mm extruded Plexiglas and bevelled all edges to 2mm.

k-_MG_3745.jpg

After that I started to bend both sides by 25 degrees each 4cm from the center.
Great the photo forget crap!
4cm from the outside I bent then by 65 degrees.
Thus I have three points that I can push into the Alkesh and under the radiators still enough space for the ball valves and sufficient supply and exhaust air

k-_MG_3748.jpg

Part 4. The pillars

Just the 8mm slit Plexiglas strip was not enough for me so I cut out of 3mm Plexiglas also 8mm strips and have these all provided with Slots.

k-_MG_3724.jpg

so in style

k-_MG_3726.jpg

Now I've cut all the pillars exactly to length

k-_MG_3732.jpg

and then stuck the 3mm Plexiglas in the offset

k-_MG_3734.jpg

Now I began to prime and fill all the pillars.

k-_MG_3761.jpg

until I was satisfied with the surface.

k-_MG_3768.jpg

Now I stuck all pillars with foil. Similar to the sarcophagus.

k-_MG_3777.jpg

Then everything again primed

k-_MG_3778.jpg

and painted several times in Gold.

k-_MG_3781.jpg


Last but not least part 5. The Alkesh

At the Alkesh I had to put under the res one more recess so I can put the pump directly under him.

k-_MG_3727.jpg

k-_MG_3728.jpg

Then I positioned the IO-Shield from below behind the radiators

k-_MG_3729.jpg

k-_MG_3730.jpg

Although I actually wanted to do without it, I smoothed the interior once again

k-_MG_3737.jpg

everything primed

k-_MG_3773.jpg

and then closed the last little holes to waterproof the whole case

k-_MG_3775.jpg

The motherboard tray I have already provided with a 1K Alugrundierung and a few layers of primer

k-_MG_3780.jpg

So far, so good, nice to finally see a little bit of color :banana:

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Goa'uld writing is mainly ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics:

 

latest?cb=20060103035720

 

You can get a font that's a good enough match here:

 

https://fonts2u.com/goauld.font 

DAEDALUS (2018 Refit) - Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 - 1600 @ 3.7Ghz // Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED Turbo Black Edition // Motherboard: Asus RoG Strix B350-F Gaming // Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce 6GB GDDR5 // Memory: 2 x 8GB DDR4 Corsair LPX Vengeance 3000Mhz // Storage: WD Green - 250GB M.2 SATA SSD (Boot Drive and Programs), SanDisk Ultra II 120GB (GTA V), WD Elements 1TB External Drive (Steam Library) // Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W // Case: BeQuiet Silentbase 600 with SilentWings Mk.2 Internal Fans // Peripherals: VicTop Mechanical Gaming Keyboard & VicTsing 7200 DPI Wired Gaming Mouse

 

PROMETHEUS (2018 Refit) - Processor: Intel Core i5-3470 @ 3.2Ghz // Cooler: Cooler Master 212 EVO // Motherboard: Foxconn 2ABF // Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD 5450 (For Diagnostic Testing Only) // Memory: 2 x 4GB DDR3 Mushkin Memory // Storage: 10TB of Various Storage Drives // Power Supply: Corsair 600W // Case: Bitfenix Nova Midi Tower - Black

 

SpeedTest Results - Having Trouble Finding a Decent PSU? - Check the PSU Tier List!

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Hi Thank you cool!

But everything is the same as the ancient Egyptian fonts.

Glyphbasic 1-4 and the Kingtut fonts.

And none matches the whole Goa'uld bombs.

But very cool I can still use that for the spaceship and the sarcophagus. :)

5aea02a558486_Goauldbomb.jpg.9c0a7afe50277f50b35bf7fc68a44edb.jpgIMG_8212.PNG.e8c836cc258c7ca4c965e88593ed12c9.PNGIMG_8159.PNG.3e0e9ec4b1a5821c62b59077a8cd749d.PNG

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Damn this will be such an awesome build when it's finished!

DAEDALUS (2018 Refit) - Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 - 1600 @ 3.7Ghz // Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED Turbo Black Edition // Motherboard: Asus RoG Strix B350-F Gaming // Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce 6GB GDDR5 // Memory: 2 x 8GB DDR4 Corsair LPX Vengeance 3000Mhz // Storage: WD Green - 250GB M.2 SATA SSD (Boot Drive and Programs), SanDisk Ultra II 120GB (GTA V), WD Elements 1TB External Drive (Steam Library) // Power Supply: Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W // Case: BeQuiet Silentbase 600 with SilentWings Mk.2 Internal Fans // Peripherals: VicTop Mechanical Gaming Keyboard & VicTsing 7200 DPI Wired Gaming Mouse

 

PROMETHEUS (2018 Refit) - Processor: Intel Core i5-3470 @ 3.2Ghz // Cooler: Cooler Master 212 EVO // Motherboard: Foxconn 2ABF // Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD 5450 (For Diagnostic Testing Only) // Memory: 2 x 4GB DDR3 Mushkin Memory // Storage: 10TB of Various Storage Drives // Power Supply: Corsair 600W // Case: Bitfenix Nova Midi Tower - Black

 

SpeedTest Results - Having Trouble Finding a Decent PSU? - Check the PSU Tier List!

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