Need more detail on how to build an AMD pc.

[JahtanI]

I've watched a bunch of videos on youtube showing how to build a pc as this is my first time.

Through those videos I learnt about hardware and graphics cards ect. I also watched some Linus vids and that's what brought me here.

 

I can't get a video clearly explaining like all the connections ect.

It's probably there but I need more looking to do.

Edit: Connections as in the wires connecting to like the power supply, motherboard, ssds/ other hardware cause they were very brief on it.

 

If you couldn't follow I want more knowledge about building an AMD pc specifically with the connections. A full in-depth with a good view/close up and explanation of what is going on would be appreciated.

Heres also my build if you're interested.

All parts have already been ordered so I hope you guys don't see any issues with it lol.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/JahtanI/saved/7GMf7P

Edited August 23, 2017 by JahtanI
Added more detail as to what type of connections

[SHOOK_Linus]

With Intel the pins are on the motherboard, but with AMD the pins are on the core, you place the core into the socket and push the lever down and snap it into place along side the socket.

 

If this isn't what you meant please specify

[Tsuki]

its a lot scarier sounding that it really is, i promise.

everything is labeled.

the psu cable labeled cpu, goes to the plug on the motherboard labeled cpu.

the psu cable labeled pcie, goes to whatever is plugged into your pcie slot, usually the graphics card.

the the 24pin cable on psu goes to the only thing on the motherboard with 24 pins.

the cpu has a little gold triangle that matches the gold triangle on the motherboard.

 

its actually very self explainitory once you've got everything in front of you.

 

the only thing that might be confusing, is the front panel connectors, the really tiny ones that go onto your motherboard, but those are all labeled too, check the book that comes with the motherboard, it has pictures of everything.

[SHOOK_Linus]

Also, it will become easier to see how it works once you have everything ready to assemble

[SHOOK_Linus]

Just now, Tsuki said:

its a lot scarier sounding that it really is, i promise.

 

its actually very self explainitory once you've got everything in front of you.

Yeah this is all true

[emosun]

other than blowing 800$ on just a graphics card the build looks ok

 

[Dark Manor]

It's also pretty hard to put all but the power button connectors in wrong. But that has a guide in the manual so you should be good.

[Mooshi]

There are no AMD specific connections. Any how to build a PC guide will do. Only difference is the socket and if the pins are on the CPU itself. Even then it isn't an AMD or Intel thing as both have LGA and PGA chips.

[JahtanI]

Just now, emosun said:

other than blowing 800$ on just a graphics card the build looks ok

 

Thanks lol, it just happened to fit my budget. My friends also referred to it as "future proof"

[SHOOK_Linus]

1 minute ago, emosun said:

other than blowing 800$ on just a graphics card the build looks ok

 

It's all because of Bitcoins

[Dark Manor]

3 hours ago, SHOOK_Linus said:

It's all because of Bitcoins

And any crypto-currency. 

[emosun]

1 minute ago, JahtanI said:

My friends also referred to it as "future proof"

nothing in the pc world is future proof , especially gpu's

the only future proof gpu i know of is the 2004 era x1800 the xbox 360 was using , even that had only a shelf life of 8 years before it REALLY needed an update

[SHOOK_Linus]

Just now, emosun said:

nothing in the pc world is future proof , especially gpu's

It's basically future proof for like 2 years then it's either normal or below average

[JahtanI]

Thanks for the replies!

[jarmenti]

step 1... don't drop the cpu... bent pins on amd = puckered bunghole pin straightening...   I also had a friend who didn't lift the latch on the cpu socket and just hammered it in there, also bending pins... and the most epic fail was another friend that failed to use the motherboard standoffs on his case, and screwed the board directly to the sheetmetal. needless to say the computer didn't boot and the motherboard was toast!

[Sanctorum]

59 minutes ago, JahtanI said:

Thanks lol, it just happened to fit my budget. My friends also referred to it as "future proof"

No such thing as "future proof". I definitely wouldn't be putting the highest end mainstream, enthusiast level GPU in to the first system I built, but it's your money.

 

Aside from that, drop the 1800x to an R7 1700. Grab a Bitfenix Whisper M 850W for slightly more than the 750W G2, or a 750W Whisper M for $10 less. In fact, I wouldn't bother with a 750W unit. You'll want an 850W PSU for SLI support IMO. 750W would do it, but it's tight. If you don't care about SLI support, get a 500-550W PSU and a cheaper motherboard. I'd also drop the 960 EVO to an 850 EVO, unless you're REALLY going to benefit from NVMe speeds.

 

As far as building goes, watch a tutorial while you're doing it, it'll help a bit. Make sure to read motherboard manual and anything else that seems important. It's all really easy and self explanatory tbh. The only issue I've ever had with building is the god damn tiny front panel connectors but I'm sure that's just because I have fat fingers. 

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor  ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($99.99 @ Corsair) 
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($131.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($144.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($149.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($89.73 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card  ($724.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($85.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: BitFenix - Whisper M 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($118.34 @ Newegg) 
Keyboard: Razer - Deathstalker Expert Wired Gaming Keyboard 
Mouse: Razer - DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse  ($49.99 @ Amazon) 
Headphones: Audio-Technica - ATH-M40x  Headphones  ($99.00 @ Adorama) 
Total: $1984.87

The changes I'd make. I'd personally swap the headphones for M50x or something from AKG, but headphone choice is one of the most personal choices a man can make IMO. I left the Razer keyboard in, in case you already have it. If you don't, I'd swap it for a Corsair K70 or something else with real men's Cherry MX switches. Swapped the H110 for an H100 since Ryzen is pretty damn efficient and even the H100 is more than enough for an R7 1700. You could get away with a nice $50 cooler, but I assumed you wanted the H110 for the aesthetics, so I stuck with the Corsair AIO CLC. You COULD get away with one of the single fan AIOs, like an H60, but those are really horrible value. As I said, if you've no interest in SLI support, get a cheaper motherboard and PSU;

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($115.55 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: BitFenix - Whisper M 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ NCIX US) 
Total: $185.54

Saves you about $60. Personally I'd want the SLI support, just in case, especially with a system of this calibre and price.

 

I'm sure you've noticed I left monitor out of my suggestion, well that's because 1080p(even 144Hz) is stupid with a 1080Ti. 1080p is pretty tragic full stop these days, I've no idea why anyone with more than $1000 for a system continues to buy in to 1080p. Here are some monitors you should consider, especially with a 1080Ti;

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CwgPxr/dell-s2417dg-238-165hz-monitor-s2417dg

24" 1440p, 165Hz, G-Sync, no IPS.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sqp323/acer-monitor-xf270hu

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/c298TW/asus-monitor-mg279q

27" 1440p, 144Hz, IPS, no G-Sync

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/scM323/aoc-ag271qg-270-165hz-monitor-ag271qg

27" 1440p, 165Hz, IPS, G-Sync.

 

IPS is better for colours and viewing angles. I personally refuse to use a TN panel again because I literally can't deal with the shitty viewing angles. G-Sync will make a much more pleasant gaming experience, but if you've never used it, you won't exactly miss it.

 

Last monitor choice I have for you;

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jVJwrH/qnix-monitor-qx2710matte

27" 1440p. Stupid cheap for what you get. No G-Sync, and it's only 60Hz, but it's sub $200 for a Samsung 1440p panel that can be easily overclocked between 96-120Hz. It's a PLS panel, which is pretty much Samsung's version of IPS. So, really the only loss here is no G-Sync, and 60Hz as standard, but if you're willing to overclock(not hard, or even very risky) then it's a no brainer for $190 IMHO.

[JahtanI]

7 hours ago, Sanctorum said:

No such thing as "future proof". I definitely wouldn't be putting the highest end mainstream, enthusiast level GPU in to the first system I built, but it's your money.

 

Aside from that, drop the 1800x to an R7 1700. Grab a Bitfenix Whisper M 850W for slightly more than the 750W G2, or a 750W Whisper M for $10 less. In fact, I wouldn't bother with a 750W unit. You'll want an 850W PSU for SLI support IMO. 750W would do it, but it's tight. If you don't care about SLI support, get a 500-550W PSU and a cheaper motherboard. I'd also drop the 960 EVO to an 850 EVO, unless you're REALLY going to benefit from NVMe speeds.

 

As far as building goes, watch a tutorial while you're doing it, it'll help a bit. Make sure to read motherboard manual and anything else that seems important. It's all really easy and self explanatory tbh. The only issue I've ever had with building is the god damn tiny front panel connectors but I'm sure that's just because I have fat fingers. 

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor  ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($99.99 @ Corsair) 
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($131.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($144.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($149.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($89.73 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card  ($724.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($85.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: BitFenix - Whisper M 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($118.34 @ Newegg) 
Keyboard: Razer - Deathstalker Expert Wired Gaming Keyboard 
Mouse: Razer - DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse  ($49.99 @ Amazon) 
Headphones: Audio-Technica - ATH-M40x  Headphones  ($99.00 @ Adorama) 
Total: $1984.87

The changes I'd make. I'd personally swap the headphones for M50x or something from AKG, but headphone choice is one of the most personal choices a man can make IMO. I left the Razer keyboard in, in case you already have it. If you don't, I'd swap it for a Corsair K70 or something else with real men's Cherry MX switches. Swapped the H110 for an H100 since Ryzen is pretty damn efficient and even the H100 is more than enough for an R7 1700. You could get away with a nice $50 cooler, but I assumed you wanted the H110 for the aesthetics, so I stuck with the Corsair AIO CLC. You COULD get away with one of the single fan AIOs, like an H60, but those are really horrible value. As I said, if you've no interest in SLI support, get a cheaper motherboard and PSU;

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($115.55 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: BitFenix - Whisper M 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($69.99 @ NCIX US) 
Total: $185.54

Saves you about $60. Personally I'd want the SLI support, just in case, especially with a system of this calibre and price.

 

I'm sure you've noticed I left monitor out of my suggestion, well that's because 1080p(even 144Hz) is stupid with a 1080Ti. 1080p is pretty tragic full stop these days, I've no idea why anyone with more than $1000 for a system continues to buy in to 1080p. Here are some monitors you should consider, especially with a 1080Ti;

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CwgPxr/dell-s2417dg-238-165hz-monitor-s2417dg

24" 1440p, 165Hz, G-Sync, no IPS.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sqp323/acer-monitor-xf270hu

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/c298TW/asus-monitor-mg279q

27" 1440p, 144Hz, IPS, no G-Sync

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/scM323/aoc-ag271qg-270-165hz-monitor-ag271qg

27" 1440p, 165Hz, IPS, G-Sync.

 

IPS is better for colours and viewing angles. I personally refuse to use a TN panel again because I literally can't deal with the shitty viewing angles. G-Sync will make a much more pleasant gaming experience, but if you've never used it, you won't exactly miss it.

 

Last monitor choice I have for you;

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jVJwrH/qnix-monitor-qx2710matte

27" 1440p. Stupid cheap for what you get. No G-Sync, and it's only 60Hz, but it's sub $200 for a Samsung 1440p panel that can be easily overclocked between 96-120Hz. It's a PLS panel, which is pretty much Samsung's version of IPS. So, really the only loss here is no G-Sync, and 60Hz as standard, but if you're willing to overclock(not hard, or even very risky) then it's a no brainer for $190 IMHO.

Thanks for your help...

I have actually ordered all these parts already so there's no changing it really.

As for the processor I think I'm fine with that cause I'll be doing alot of 3D Modelling, 3D rendering and such. (I'm still learning so I'm not super amazing)

 

Thanks for the monitor recommendations and knowledge too. I might look into that in the future. I have a working oldish 60hz monitor I am using at the moment that can act as my second screen. The colours aren't amazing, but it won't be my main screen lol.

Maybe If I had my 3D software open and wanted to see the render on the other screen but I can always do vice versa maybe. I actually didn't know you could overclock monitors. So far I think it's cpu's and graphics cards? I'll do more research about these monitors. Thanks!

 

As for the keyboard it had flat keys. I've been using a laptop for up to now so I'm used to the flat keys and type much faster on it. But a new keyboard isn't difficult to order when I see fit or necessary. I have a cousin I can give pheripherals I'm not using also so it won't go to waste either. Thanks for the keyboard suggestion by the way.

 

As for the cooler I just chose the one that amazon showed users purchased the cpu with/ one that was included in a bundle (ordered separately).

Still not a pro on this but I did research to make it would work.

Edit: I also heard that liquid coolers bring lower temperatures and are quieter.

 

I don't know too much about SLI but I think that's connecting two or multiple graphics card to your build right? I also heard that it improves performance in most scenarios. But you're saying that it would be able to support that right? I'll educate myself in the future and maybe add another if I ever see it fit/necessary.

 

Much thanks for your knowledge! It would've been nice to discuss my build here before I went about ordering it I guess...

Edited August 23, 2017 by JahtanI
Added more info on cooler

[JahtanI]

Something happened with my shipping address and it seems that my monitor is being refunded. Once I confirmed that it is being returned I'll look for a new monitor based on your advice.

[JahtanI]

Hi, I decided to go for this one:

On 23/08/2017 at 11:03 AM, JahtanI said:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CwgPxr/dell-s2417dg-238-165hz-monitor-s2417dg

Fits my budget apparently. Shame I couldn't get an IPS with G-sync but I did some research on that and it seems like something I want.

 

Edit: The G-sync is something I want I mean.

Edit #2:I'm going for the 27" too.