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i cant get my watercooled pc pump to start up

4 minutes ago, Lurick said:

Yup, right in the back of the red wire of the connector I put arrows around.

Leave everything else connected as is in the picture.

Okay sending pic yo make sure its right

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3 minutes ago, chowderblue said:

Okay sending pic yo make sure its right

Sounds good, awaiting picture :) 

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Just now, chowderblue said:

-snip-

That looks perfect :)

*fingers crossed*

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10 minutes ago, Lurick said:

That looks perfect :)

*fingers crossed*

Noting ://

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Just now, chowderblue said:

Noting ://

Dang.

Not even a hum from the pump?

At this point I think it's safe to say, the pump is dead :( 

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11 minutes ago, Lurick said:

That looks perfect :)

*fingers crossed*

ugh this really sucks. 

 

10 minutes ago, Lurick said:

Dang.

Not even a hum from the pump?

At this point I think it's safe to say, the pump is dead :( 

God!! ugh :( my parents are going to definitely think i dont know what im doing now. you see ive been working on this pc for 6 months (since lasy december) and i still havent finished it due to problems ive been running into. at first i thought it was the power supply so i sent it in and then got a new one. computer still didnt work so i figured it was the motherboard so i BougHt a new one the old one probably isnt even broken now that i think about it. and now i have to tell them i think the pump is dead? damn.

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5 hours ago, chowderblue said:

-snip-

Late for the party sorry. I'm generally confused about the PWM header discussion since EK D5's will operate at 100% duty cycle when there is no PWM signal.

 

Just to confirm, you are bridging the 24-pin cable when you are turning the power supply on right? 

 

PS some of you bends look like they might benefit from re-doing, but that's another problem entirely.

 

Just to confirm if I understood your post, is this the situation? Please unplug the PWM cable as it really should have nothing to do with pump operation for now.

 

24-pin ATX cable --> jumper between green and black cable

8-pin PCIe cable --> Molex --> Pump

 

Does your power supply not have a native molex power cable?

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7 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Just to confirm if I understood your post, is this the situation? Please unplug the PWM cable as it really should have nothing to do with pump operation for now.

 

24-pin ATX cable --> jumper between green and black cable

8-pin PCIe cable --> Molex --> Pump

 

Does your power supply not have a native molex power cable?

It's completely modular so when he says PCIe I'm pretty sure he means the PSU to cable end.

The D5 PWM pumps only operate at 60% or 40% when they have no PWM signal, I've got two that operate the same way, no PWM signal = near 0 flow.

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11 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Just to confirm if I understood your post, is this the situation? Please unplug the PWM cable as it really should have nothing to do with pump operation for now.

 

24-pin ATX cable --> jumper between green and black cable

8-pin PCIe cable --> Molex --> Pump

 

Does your power supply not have a native molex power cable?

Yes ive done all that. i used one of the jumpstarter plastic cable jump kit things that you plug into the end of the motherboard power supply cable to reenact pressing the start button. and yes it goes from power supply to pcie 6 pin to molex cable to female to female molex adapter to molex cable from the pump

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Have you tried plugging in JUST the molex and unplugging the 4pin PWM header completely?

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Don't worry small cable, it makes no difference whatsoever except pump going half speed. So forget out all bullshit tricks you were advised above.  Most likely you have the power issue with MOLEX 4-pin connector.  Make sure that there is power out of your PSU by plugging something else to test

It also seems like you tube completely collapsed going out of reservoir?

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If you are using a 24pin ATX jumper to start the PSU and not the rest of the system, you CANNOT plug in the PWM cable from the pump. It needs to be left unplugged, and the pump will run at it's default speed of 50%. If you plug it into PWM, the pump WILL NOT run. 

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1 minute ago, PPCs-Matt said:

If you are using a 24pin ATX jumper to start the PSU and not the rest of the system, you CANNOT plug in the PWM cable from the pump. It needs to be left unplugged, and the pump will run at it's default speed of 50%. If you plug it into PWM, the pump WILL NOT run. 

Pretty sure I filled my system with a jumper and the PWM header plugged in. As @DazMode said above, it doesn't make a difference. If the Motherboard is not receiving power, it is really the equivalent of being unplugged since there is no signal going through the pins. The only thing I will mention is that EKWB's D5 will operate at 100% without PWM signal, so it should be full power

 

Quote

 Default behavior: Runs at 100% duty cycle when no PWM feedback signal is present

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

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21 hours ago, 0ld_Chicken said:

Have you tried plugging in JUST the molex and unplugging the 4pin PWM header completely?

yea the pmw header was unplugged and only the 4 pin molex from the pump was plugged on. still nothing. not even a hum

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8 hours ago, For Science! said:

Pretty sure I filled my system with a jumper and the PWM header plugged in. As @DazMode said above, it doesn't make a difference. If the Motherboard is not receiving power, it is really the equivalent of being unplugged since there is no signal going through the pins. The only thing I will mention is that EKWB's D5 will operate at 100% without PWM signal, so it should be full power

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sleeved-pump

just bought a new one. this one should work if i just plug it into a 4 pin molex into my power supply right? if everything turns on and the power button from my chassis (which is connected to my motherboard, proving my motherboard works) then everything should go smoothly and ill have a working computer by then?

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1 minute ago, chowderblue said:

-snip-

Yes it should work (although your other pump should have worked too if it was not dead)

 

I'm a little bit confused why you keep mentioning the chassis power button and motherboard. The 24-pin jumper cable means when you flick the power supply "on" (i.e. from the button on the power supply itself) then power is supplied through the molex 4-pin into the pump, therefore for the operation of the pump the motherboard plays absolutely no role.

 

I would recommend unplugging everything from either the power supply or the card/board that isn't either the 24-pin jumper or the molex 4-pin to the pump. I believe I have fried LED strips on my system because of the frequent turning on and off required to fill the loop.

 

Also could we get a zoomed full-body picture of your system (from a few angles if possible too) and around the bends in the back if it goes there. Just wanted to check your loop is okay too (if you don't mind)

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2 hours ago, chowderblue said:

-snip-

At the risk of sounding completely patronizing, I'm going to take the risk and lay out in pretty basic terms what needs to happen just in case there is something wrong with the setup. Sorry if you've done it like this, but I want to make sure this is exactly what you've done. I became a bit concerned because despite you having a molex plug in your PSU kit but somehow you've been using adaptors in strange ways.

 

Please note how there should be nothing connected to the motherboard for this part of leak testing, and so you should not be touching chassis buttons, motherboard buttons, etc. Leak testing (filling of your loop) is purely between the powersupply and the pump.

 

There are only 2 cables you need to power the pump, and it really should be that way, so all you need is the MB cable and the Perif Cable (Molex) connected to your powersupply

step2.thumb.png.7cc6c996f89becc744f57dc18af3b494.png

 

These two should plug into here and here of the powersupply (this part should be obvious)

psu_side.thumb.png.b5db8ce3362069b90f9c976dc5b5eea8.png

The MB cable should be connected to the 24-pin jumper that came with the powersupplied (pictured below) and the 4-pin molex power peripheral cable should go directly to the D5 pump (leave the fan header disconnected for now).

597fc7e32463c_step3.thumb.png.8c1265b3720eb0eb368aafe92a30a278.png

 

Obviously connect the power cable (circled in purple) to the PSU too, and plug the socket into your wall.

Once these three cables are coming off the power supply (don't connect the other cables yet), then flick on the switch of your powersupply and the pump (and only the pump) should start spinning (Obviously do not let the pump run dry, be ready to flick off the powersupply when the liquid levels are low in the reservoir)

 

steplast.png.2887fead7e78f5b3391d7639a825db2f.png

 

I apologize in advance if this was incredibly patronizing, but its good to know we're on the same page.

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.I should be sleeping.... But you can see how the pump testing does not involve the motherboard or the chassis. (I mean, do it assembled in the chassis and close to the motherboard, but no cables and switches from either are involved, its just flicking the power supply swithc on and off)

Long live MS paint

Untitled.png.11cae03ef401d77efcb5cff414da69f1.png

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@For Science! @DazMode

 

The specs on the website are WRONG, if you actually contact EK support they will confirm that without a PWM signal the pump will NOT operate at 100% but instead 40%-ish

Please stop telling him it will operate at 100%, that is incorrect. I have two EK D5 PWM pumps I bought 6 months ago and I can confirm that they do NOT operate at full speed without a PWM signal. They have, for whatever reason, configured or setup the PWM incorrectly and either haven't fixed it or can't fix it.

 

https://forums.evga.com/Force-EK-D5-PWM-pump-to-spin-at-100-m2482563.aspx

http://www.overclock.net/t/1584619/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-pump-speed-without-4-pin-pwm-connected-and-ek-waterblock-venting-the-system

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/35uc3y/d5_pwm_pump_safe_to_power_on_without_pwm_plugged/

https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/201658-powering-a-pwm-water-pump

 

 

Regardless, his pump is most likely dead since he doesn't get a hum out of it either way.

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32 minutes ago, Lurick said:

-snip-

I'm waiting for response from OP about the wiring, I am particularly curious why he didn't use the molex power cable with the power supply. Also a bit worried why OP keeps mentioning the motherboard and chassis button, just want to confirm he's no trying to somehow turn on the system via the power switch on the chassis when the 24-pin is jumpered (or something equivalent to that). It would be pretty strange, but always good to check.

 

With regards to the PWM discussion it is slightly off-topic so I won't discuss further beyond this post. From personal experience, I know my pump operates faster than 50 % PWM duty cycle (what I drove my system for a while) compared to the filling stage when there was no PWM signal, this is why I think the webpage is accurate. But if you got in contact with EK recently, it would be great if you could just paste screenshots of your support ticket with dates stamped so that I can refer to this information in the future.

 

However, regardless of whether the D5 pump operates at 100% or 40%, the pump should still turn on and have no problem filling a standard system. For example in my system, using a single D5 without a PWM signal, I had no trouble filling and bleeding a system with 2x GPU blocks, CPU Monoblock, 600 mm of restrictive radiators (HWLabs GTS) with absolutely no problems. So whatever duty cycle the D5 pumps operate on, they should be completely fine for filling and should not require weird hot-wiring of PWM cables.

 

The users who had problems in the linked above are about 2 years old, and I believe EK has rolled out new D5 PWM since as well. Perhaps you managed to get hold of an older stock?

 

Quote

https://forums.evga.com/Force-EK-D5-PWM-pump-to-spin-at-100-m2482563.aspx

 

"Plugging it directly into the power source should make it run at 100%"

"the newer versions of there D5 PWM pumps now run at 100% when no signal is detected."

Quote

http://www.overclock.net/t/1584619/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-pwm-pump-speed-without-4-pin-pwm-connected-and-ek-waterblock-venting-the-system

"I have a PWM EK DCP pump and it runs at 100% without the fan header plugged in. It should be 100% without PWM."

 

Quote

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/35uc3y/d5_pwm_pump_safe_to_power_on_without_pwm_plugged/

 

"From what I have seen on here before, PWM pumps/fans just run at full power without the PWM pin connected."

"I'm using a d5 pwm pump as well and when I didn't plug in the pwm it ran at 100% "

 

And the post from PC partpickers. the guy didn't actually have any issues.

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11 minutes ago, For Science! said:

-snip-

Definitely agree with your points, it should be on at some speed, regardless of PWM stuff :) 

 

It's possible I've gotten older stock, I've had stranger things happen.

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On 8/1/2017 at 8:14 AM, For Science! said:

I'm waiting for response from OP about the wiring, I am particularly curious why he didn't use the molex power cable with the power supply. Also a bit worried why OP keeps mentioning the motherboard and chassis button, just want to confirm he's no trying to somehow turn on the system via the power switch on the chassis when the 24-pin is jumpered (or something equivalent to that). It would be pretty strange, but always good to check.

 

With regards to the PWM discussion it is slightly off-topic so I won't discuss further beyond this post. From personal experience, I know my pump operates faster than 50 % PWM duty cycle (what I drove my system for a while) compared to the filling stage when there was no PWM signal, this is why I think the webpage is accurate. But if you got in contact with EK recently, it would be great if you could just paste screenshots of your support ticket with dates stamped so that I can refer to this information in the future.

 

However, regardless of whether the D5 pump operates at 100% or 40%, the pump should still turn on and have no problem filling a standard system. For example in my system, using a single D5 without a PWM signal, I had no trouble filling and bleeding a system with 2x GPU blocks, CPU Monoblock, 600 mm of restrictive radiators (HWLabs GTS) with absolutely no problems. So whatever duty cycle the D5 pumps operate on, they should be completely fine for filling and should not require weird hot-wiring of PWM cables.

 

The users who had problems in the linked above are about 2 years old, and I believe EK has rolled out new D5 PWM since as well. Perhaps you managed to get hold of an older stock?

 

And the post from PC partpickers. the guy didn't actually have any issues.

How you mentioned doing it is exactly how ive been doing it. i mentioned the chassis power button and the motherboard because someone mentioned if the motherboard might be dead or if there was something wrong with the power. but i said the power button on the chassis (which is connected to the motherboard) started up a fan which was connected to the power supply, proving there was power being disputed around. I bought a new pump now because i think we've all decided the pump is dead. im trying to figure out how to install the pump into my case now because before i used zip ties to lock down my pump into my case.

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On 8/1/2017 at 8:14 AM, For Science! said:

I'm waiting for response from OP about the wiring, I am particularly curious why he didn't use the molex power cable with the power supply. Also a bit worried why OP keeps mentioning the motherboard and chassis button, just want to confirm he's no trying to somehow turn on the system via the power switch on the chassis when the 24-pin is jumpered (or something equivalent to that). It would be pretty strange, but always good to check.

 

With regards to the PWM discussion it is slightly off-topic so I won't discuss further beyond this post. From personal experience, I know my pump operates faster than 50 % PWM duty cycle (what I drove my system for a while) compared to the filling stage when there was no PWM signal, this is why I think the webpage is accurate. But if you got in contact with EK recently, it would be great if you could just paste screenshots of your support ticket with dates stamped so that I can refer to this information in the future.

 

However, regardless of whether the D5 pump operates at 100% or 40%, the pump should still turn on and have no problem filling a standard system. For example in my system, using a single D5 without a PWM signal, I had no trouble filling and bleeding a system with 2x GPU blocks, CPU Monoblock, 600 mm of restrictive radiators (HWLabs GTS) with absolutely no problems. So whatever duty cycle the D5 pumps operate on, they should be completely fine for filling and should not require weird hot-wiring of PWM cables.

 

The users who had problems in the linked above are about 2 years old, and I believe EK has rolled out new D5 PWM since as well. Perhaps you managed to get hold of an older stock?

 

And the post from PC partpickers. the guy didn't actually have any issues.

Im not sure how to screw my pump into my case :/ im usin the tower 900

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25 minutes ago, chowderblue said:

Im not sure how to screw my pump into my case :/ im usin the tower 900

I like where you had it before, if you want feet, you could repurpose uni-holders if you want. I used velcro for my build with rubber feet (HDD shock absorbers) but you can also screw it in.

 

20170502_175254.thumb.jpg.c5dd87c00b583f1671dbec77145800b5.jpg

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