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dead switch Need help!!!

aman2499

the power supply is from my assumption what can I do to fix my switch my multimeter is set too voltage and reads nothing for the output

15009384963041833799467.jpg

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it could be many things, these days there is a second voltage that runs the logic that turn the main supply on and off, try looking for that,

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22 minutes ago, aman2499 said:

the power supply is from my assumption what can I do to fix my switch my multimeter is set too voltage and reads nothing for the output

15009384963041833799467.jpg

depends on how proficient you are at electronics and soldering.. a power supply is not something you should tackle unless you know *exactly* what to do. it can kill you..

if it's under warranty, get it fixed/replaced, otherwise see if you can find a new psu or buy a new switch, i don't advice fixing a powersupply if you don't have a course in electronics or relevant experience

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

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CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

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8 minutes ago, Changis said:

depends on how proficient you are at electronics and soldering.. a power supply is not something you should tackle unless you know *exactly* what to do. it can kill you..

if it's under warranty, get it fixed/replaced, otherwise see if you can find a new psu or buy a new switch, i don't advice fixing a powersupply if you don't have a course in electronics or relevant experience

I am more or less beginner with electronics I do understand it and I do know how to check things what things are I did a continuity test on a capacitor and I got nothing back so I think it's blown but I'm not sure all's I know is I tested all the points of output on the power supply and got nothing back I don't know where I can get another power supply for this thing but it's a gigabit switch something kind of hard too purchase with that many ports

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6 hours ago, aman2499 said:

I am more or less beginner with electronics I do understand it and I do know how to check things what things are I did a continuity test on a capacitor and I got nothing back so I think it's blown but I'm not sure all's I know is I tested all the points of output on the power supply and got nothing back I don't know where I can get another power supply for this thing but it's a gigabit switch something kind of hard too purchase with that many ports

see if you have an electronics shop nearby and ask for a quote.. or maybe you can find a similar model with bad network ports or something (as long as power supply works).
but again, i don't advice you tackle this yourself.. power can linger for a while in psu's and it can be enough to kill you, so it's no joke working on them.. if you're a beginner, i wouldn't try it myself unless you have someone educated who can supervise. 

i see newegg sells refurbished switches.. if you are not in the us, check the "company" side of webshops if they have, or commercial products to find switches.. also, do you need 48 ports? is 24 enough? might be cheaper to get a 20+ port if you don't need all 40+ ports

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

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On 7/25/2017 at 2:20 AM, Changis said:

see if you have an electronics shop nearby and ask for a quote.. or maybe you can find a similar model with bad network ports or something (as long as power supply works).
but again, i don't advice you tackle this yourself.. power can linger for a while in psu's and it can be enough to kill you, so it's no joke working on them.. if you're a beginner, i wouldn't try it myself unless you have someone educated who can supervise. 

i see newegg sells refurbished switches.. if you are not in the us, check the "company" side of webshops if they have, or commercial products to find switches.. also, do you need 48 ports? is 24 enough? might be cheaper to get a 20+ port if you don't need all 40+ ports

thanks man I'm better off looking for a psu I know lot of people that wouldn't appreciate me dying from an AC shock I found a few suitable replacement for my switch and I'm going to order one soon rather than try to salvage this one I tested it while it was live no output and then I unplugged it and the main capacitor was blown I could solder it but i particularly don't want too be near AC when it's live also I'm sure you could see my skill by my multimeter

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2 hours ago, aman2499 said:

thanks man I'm better off looking for a psu I know lot of people that wouldn't appreciate me dying from an AC shock I found a few suitable replacement for my switch and I'm going to order one soon rather than try to salvage this one I tested it while it was live no output and then I unplugged it and the main capacitor was blown I could solder it but i particularly don't want too be near AC when it's live also I'm sure you could see my skill by my multimeter

Good luck :)

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

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On ‎25‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 2:11 AM, aman2499 said:

I am more or less beginner with electronics I do understand it and I do know how to check things what things are I did a continuity test on a capacitor and I got nothing back so I think it's blown but I'm not sure all's I know is I tested all the points of output on the power supply and got nothing back I don't know where I can get another power supply for this thing but it's a gigabit switch something kind of hard too purchase with that many ports

A capacitor should not give you anything in a continuity test. If a current can flow through a capacitor, it's dead. So probably, your capacitor isn't dead.

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On 7/30/2017 at 11:00 AM, akio123008 said:

A capacitor should not give you anything in a continuity test. If a current can flow through a capacitor, it's dead. So probably, your capacitor isn't dead.

I don't know then I'm currently in electronics one and it just started I had a bit of knowledge of electronics but I didn't know that

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