Jump to content

104C Cpu runs hot but the radiator is cold on All in one cooler

I have 5930k on asus rampage v edition 10 motherboard so it is meant to overclock

i have thermaltake water 3.0 ultimate which has 360mm radiator with .35 amp each really strong fans

when i run prime95 (avx) on 4ghz even temps climb up to 104C  radiator is cold hose is very hot to touch exit hose is also hot only the entry point of the radiator is hot rest 300mm is cold

when i touch the entry point of the rad it burns my hand but the rest is literally room temperature

i am sure something is wrong with the aio cooler i do not have time to investigate this couple of days i don't have air cooler to reference it (thou i have a lot of heatsink and fan)

my overclock is only increasing the multiplier and vcore

now i am just asking what does that cold radiator mean?

 

 

temp.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dead pump sounds like to me... 

Community Standards | Fan Control Software

Please make sure to Quote me or @ me to see your reply!

Just because I am a Moderator does not mean I am always right. Please fact check me and verify my answer. 

 

"Black Out"

Ryzen 9 5900x | Full Custom Water Loop | Asus Crosshair VIII Hero (Wi-Fi) | RTX 3090 Founders | Ballistix 32gb 16-18-18-36 3600mhz 

1tb Samsung 970 Evo | 2x 2tb Crucial MX500 SSD | Fractal Design Meshify S2 | Corsair HX1200 PSU

 

Dedicated Streaming Rig

 Ryzen 7 3700x | Asus B450-F Strix | 16gb Gskill Flare X 3200mhz | Corsair RM550x PSU | Asus Strix GTX1070 | 250gb 860 Evo m.2

Phanteks P300A |  Elgato HD60 Pro | Avermedia Live Gamer Duo | Avermedia 4k GC573 Capture Card

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check your thermal paste application

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K | Motherboard: AsRock X99 Extreme4 | Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 1080 G1 Gaming | RAM: 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws4 2133MHz | Storage: 1 x Samsung 860 EVO 1TB | 1 x WD Green 2TB | 1 x WD Blue 500GB | PSU: Corsair RM750x | Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (White) | Cooling: Arctic Freezer i32

 

Mice: Logitech G Pro X Superlight (main), Logitech G Pro Wireless, Razer Viper Ultimate, Zowie S1 Divina Blue, Zowie FK1-B Divina Blue, Logitech G Pro (3366 sensor), Glorious Model O, Razer Viper Mini, Logitech G305, Logitech G502, Logitech G402

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Berk70 said:

I have 5930k on asus rampage v edition 10 motherboard so it is meant to overclock

i have thermaltake water 3.0 ultimate which has 360mm radiator with .35 amp each really strong fans

when i run prime95 on 4.4ghz even temps climb up to 100C in seconds and radiator is very cold hose is hot to touch exit hose is also hot only the entry point of the radiator is hot rest 300mm is cold

when i touch the entry point of the rad it burns my hand but the rest is literally room temperature

i am sure something is wrong with the aio cooler i do not have time to investigate this couple of days i don't have air cooler to reference it (thou i have a lot of heatsink and fan)

my overclock is only increasing the multiplier and vcore

will update this when i have time to test alternative cpu cooling methods like old heatsink and old partially broken aio liquid cooler

now i am just asking what does that cold radiator mean?

Welcome to the forums!

 

Have you just set this up? Has it ever been working fine? Is the pump actually plugged in? Is the AIO new or is it a used product?

More information will help diagnose the problem, but sounds like for some reason the pump is not working

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

How did you plug in the pump?

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Berk70 said:

now i am just asking what does that cold radiator mean?

This means that the heat is not being transfered from the CPU to the Radiator. This can be because:

The CPU block is not mounted properly (eg thermal paste).

The pump motor is not running (eg, faulty or not plugged in)

The pump blades have broken off the motor

There is a blockage in the line

Evaporation has left the lines mostly dry and there is no fluid moving through the CPU block

The low quality coolant has precipitated forming a low thermal conductivity coating within the CPU block and radiator

 

AIO coolers are notorious for failure and being DOA. I have a pile of dead ones.

Air coolers are much more reliable, and if you need water cooling custom is more sensible (though more expensive) as it is user serviceable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, legacy99 said:

Dead pump sounds like to me... 

Pump makes normal noise and it doesn't just crash i had that from corsair h100 it wouldn't boot if pumps dead.

 

22 hours ago, PCGuy_5960 said:

Check your thermal paste application

It is perfect line method little application cooler is mounted properly.

 

21 hours ago, For Science! said:

Welcome to the forums!

 

Have you just set this up? Has it ever been working fine? Is the pump actually plugged in? Is the AIO new or is it a used product?

More information will help diagnose the problem, but sounds like for some reason the pump is not working

 

I just set this on normal load keeps the cpu 70 80C ish which is high but not critic all in one is from a guy online.

 

21 hours ago, Enderman said:

How did you plug in the pump?

I plugged it to motherboards designated place so it is correct.

 

21 hours ago, DrMikeNZ said:

This means that the heat is not being transfered from the CPU to the Radiator. This can be because:

The CPU block is not mounted properly (eg thermal paste).

The pump motor is not running (eg, faulty or not plugged in)

The pump blades have broken off the motor

There is a blockage in the line

Evaporation has left the lines mostly dry and there is no fluid moving through the CPU block

The low quality coolant has precipitated forming a low thermal conductivity coating within the CPU block and radiator

 

AIO coolers are notorious for failure and being DOA. I have a pile of dead ones.

Air coolers are much more reliable, and if you need water cooling custom is more sensible (though more expensive) as it is user serviceable.

Hoses are hot entry of the radiator is also very hot but the rest is cold so heat doesn't seem to transfer the whole area only the entry of the rad seems to be effective.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Berk70 said:

i plugged it to motherboards designated place so it is correct

What place?

A fan header?

A pump header?

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Enderman said:

What place?

A fan header?

A pump header?

it has designated pump header

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Berk70 said:

-snip-

So from what you posted, this is what I've extracted, and would like more information on:

 

- AIO is 2nd hand, do you know how many years they have been using it?

- What do you mean by "Normal Load"

 

My current bet is a clogged radiator from extensive use and mixed metals within the AIO, but this depends on how much it has been used.

 

Some other possibilities

If your pump is working, then the water is somehow not making its way into the radiator core = Blockage/Corrosion

There is not enough liquid in the AIO left to actually complete a loop - Unlikely?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 03.07.2017 at 10:39 PM, For Science! said:

So from what you posted, this is what I've extracted, and would like more information on:

 

- AIO is 2nd hand, do you know how many years they have been using it?

- What do you mean by "Normal Load"

 

My current bet is a clogged radiator from extensive use and mixed metals within the AIO, but this depends on how much it has been used.

I have the receipt it has been used 1 year.

Normal load meant gaming not stress testing. Sorry i did not clarify it. On games cpu usage is fairly light to be honest so not much cpu is used.

By the looks of it i am going to buy some Noctua d14 or something like that because i get tired from this all in one coolers.

Is it possible for me to tear the all in one and clean and re attach everything if i buy distilled water to fill it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Berk70 said:

Is it possible for me to tear the all in one and clean and re attach everything if i buy distilled water to fill it?

I wouldn't recommend it, AIOs are mixed metals and are usually filled with glycols; distilled water will probably corrode like nuts and eventually fail. Also reassembling for it to be leak-free is not worth voiding the 3-year warranty. Just RMA it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, For Science! said:

I wouldn't recommend it, AIOs are mixed metals and are usually filled with glycols; distilled water will probably corrode like nuts and eventually fail. Also reassembling for it to be leak-free is not worth voiding the 3-year warranty. Just RMA it.

My country has weird laws about it because i bought it used someone else had bought it their name is in the receipt so only they can legally return it and get the money back and being in the 3rd world country makes it harder to get your rights so i actually wanted to solve the problem myself. Is there any videos on repairing it myself?

And why would they mix metals isn't that like the worst thing they could do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, Berk70 said:

My country has weird laws about it because i bought it used someone else had bought it their name is in the receipt so only they can legally return it and get the money back and being in the 3rd world country makes it harder to get your rights so i actually wanted to solve the problem myself. Is there any videos on repairing it myself?

And why would they mix metals isn't that like the worst thing they could do?

Galvanic Corrosion, google it.. its literally a slow dying death for your PC. 

Community Standards | Fan Control Software

Please make sure to Quote me or @ me to see your reply!

Just because I am a Moderator does not mean I am always right. Please fact check me and verify my answer. 

 

"Black Out"

Ryzen 9 5900x | Full Custom Water Loop | Asus Crosshair VIII Hero (Wi-Fi) | RTX 3090 Founders | Ballistix 32gb 16-18-18-36 3600mhz 

1tb Samsung 970 Evo | 2x 2tb Crucial MX500 SSD | Fractal Design Meshify S2 | Corsair HX1200 PSU

 

Dedicated Streaming Rig

 Ryzen 7 3700x | Asus B450-F Strix | 16gb Gskill Flare X 3200mhz | Corsair RM550x PSU | Asus Strix GTX1070 | 250gb 860 Evo m.2

Phanteks P300A |  Elgato HD60 Pro | Avermedia Live Gamer Duo | Avermedia 4k GC573 Capture Card

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, legacy99 said:

Galvanic Corrosion, google it.. its literally a slow dying death for your PC. 

In turkey Wikipedia is banned 3rd world problems but i know corrosion i told why are they still producing mixed metal you know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Berk70 said:

In turkey Wikipedia is banned 3rd world problems but i know corrosion i told why are they still producing mixed metal you know

because it saves on cost. Probably doing copper block and aluminum radiator. 

Community Standards | Fan Control Software

Please make sure to Quote me or @ me to see your reply!

Just because I am a Moderator does not mean I am always right. Please fact check me and verify my answer. 

 

"Black Out"

Ryzen 9 5900x | Full Custom Water Loop | Asus Crosshair VIII Hero (Wi-Fi) | RTX 3090 Founders | Ballistix 32gb 16-18-18-36 3600mhz 

1tb Samsung 970 Evo | 2x 2tb Crucial MX500 SSD | Fractal Design Meshify S2 | Corsair HX1200 PSU

 

Dedicated Streaming Rig

 Ryzen 7 3700x | Asus B450-F Strix | 16gb Gskill Flare X 3200mhz | Corsair RM550x PSU | Asus Strix GTX1070 | 250gb 860 Evo m.2

Phanteks P300A |  Elgato HD60 Pro | Avermedia Live Gamer Duo | Avermedia 4k GC573 Capture Card

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Berk70 said:

why would they mix metals isn't that like the worst thing they could do?

Yes, but its most likely risk management in for cost of production (Likelihood of sales) & Netted Profit.

 

Make a great product but sell it too cheap you lose money

Make a great product but too expensive, people won't buy it

Make a product cheap but too crappy, people will RMA lots and eventually not buy it

 

Making an all copper AIO is probably the best in terms of quality and performance but the production and raw material cost is significantly more, and so the product will be out of reach for many customers resulting in a reduction of sales.

 

However including "Copper base plate" seems to be an requirement nowadays to convey "good thermal conduction" and that's one of the reasons why EKWB have pushed and pushed to reiterate that their all aluminium series (Fluid Gaming) perform comparably to copper systems. 

 

Corrosion happens over a long period of time and some people may not bother to RMA, or it may happen (or people only realize) after the warranty expires (again, profit management). Clearly the industry consensus is to have copper plates to advertise thermal properties, while reducing the cost of production by including aluminium radiators (which may boast copper fins, but the core is usually aluminium). They probably include anticorrosives to minimize these affects, but yes they are likely to fail over time.

 

That is one of the big differences between AIOs and custom loops - the quality of the components you put in.

 

I don't have any tips for fixing an AIO, more than likely it will mess up and you will either spring a leak (and kill your pc) - Anything you do is entirely your responsibility. I would recommend getting in touch with the person you bought it from and organize an RMA through him/her.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Berk70 said:

By the looks of it i am going to buy some Noctua d14 or something like that because i get tired from this all in one coolers.

 

You should also think about getting EK's Fluid Gaming line of custom watercooling kits. The lowest end one (The EK-KIT A120 is the same price as the NZXT Kraken X52). It's aluminum yes, but all the components are aluminum and EK explicitly warns users of using copper or brass components to expand the loop (Hell, there's a yellow sticker on the EK-Supremacy AX waterblock with the message on there) as it will cause galvanic corrosion.

 

There's also the A240 (240mm rad CPU loop), and the A240G (240mm rad CPU + reference GPU (Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060, 1070, 1080, 1080 Ti Founders Edition, and Nvidia Titan X and Nvidia Titan Xp)

 

To answer your issue, it sounds like the pump is dead. Did you plug it into the W_PUMP header and check the BIOS for an RPM readout? I have the exact motherboard and I have a CM MasterLiquid Pro 240 that works like a charm (though cooling performance is something to be desired for a 5930K)

RIGZ

Spoiler

Starlight (Current): AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 12-core CPU | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Black Edition | Gigabyte X570 Aorus Ultra | Full Custom Loop | 32GB (4x8GB) Dominator Platinum SE Blackout #338/500 | 1TB + 2TB M.2 NVMe PCIe 4.0 SSDs, 480GB SATA 2.5" SSD, 8TB 7200 RPM NAS HDD | EVGA NU Audio | Corsair 900D | Corsair AX1200i | Corsair ML120 2-pack 5x + ML140 2-pack

 

The Storm (Retired): Intel Core i7-5930K | Asus ROG STRIX GeForce GTX 1080 Ti | Asus ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 | EKWB EK-KIT P360 with Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport 480 | 32GB (4x8GB) Dominator Platinum SE Blackout #338/500 | 480GB SATA 2.5" SSD + 3TB 5400 RPM NAS HDD + 8TB 7200 RPM NAS HDD | Corsair 900D | Corsair AX1200i + Black/Blue CableMod cables | Corsair ML120 2-pack 2x + NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2 x3

STRONK COOLZ 9000

Spoiler

EK-Quantum Momentum X570 Aorus Master monoblock | EK-FC RTX 2080 + Ti Classic RGB Waterblock and Backplate | EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo | 2x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 480 MP and 1x SR2 240 MP | 10X Corsair ML120 PWM fans | A mixture of EK-KIT fittings and EK-Torque STC fittings and adapters | Mayhems 10/13mm clear tubing | Mayhems X1 Eco UV Blue coolant | Bitspower G1/4 Temperature Probe Fitting

DESK TOIS

Spoiler

Glorious Modular Mechanical Keyboard | Glorious Model D Featherweight Mouse | 2x BenQ PD3200Q 32" 1440p IPS displays + BenQ BL3200PT 32" 1440p VA display | Mackie ProFX10v3 USB Mixer + Marantz MPM-1000 Mic | Sennheiser HD 598 SE Headphones | 2x ADAM Audio T5V 5" Powered Studio Monitors + ADAM Audio T10S Powered Studio Subwoofer | Logitech G920 Driving Force Steering Wheel and Pedal Kit + Driving Force Shifter | Logitech C922x 720p 60FPS Webcam | Xbox One Wireless Controller

QUOTES

Spoiler

"So because they didn't give you the results you want, they're biased? You realize that makes you biased, right?" - @App4that

"Brand loyalty/fanboyism is stupid." - Unknown person on these forums

"Assuming kills" - @Moondrelor

"That's not to say that Nvidia is always better, or that AMD isn't worth owning. But the fact remains that this forum is AMD biased." - @App4that

"I'd imagine there's exceptions to this trend - but just going on mine and my acquaintances' purchase history, we've found that budget cards often require you to turn off certain features to get slick performance, even though those technologies are previous gen and should be having a negligible impact" - ace42

"2K" is not 2560 x 1440 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, JurunceNK said:

You should also think about getting EK's Fluid Gaming line of custom watercooling kits. The lowest end one (The EK-KIT A120 is the same price as the NZXT Kraken X52). It's aluminum yes, but all the components are aluminum and EK explicitly warns users of using copper or brass components to expand the loop (Hell, there's a yellow sticker on the EK-Supremacy AX waterblock with the message on there) as it will cause galvanic corrosion.

 

There's also the A240 (240mm rad CPU loop), and the A240G (240mm rad CPU + reference GPU (Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060, 1070, 1080, 1080 Ti Founders Edition, and Nvidia Titan X and Nvidia Titan Xp)

 

To answer your issue, it sounds like the pump is dead. Did you plug it into the W_PUMP header and check the BIOS for an RPM readout? I have the exact motherboard and I have a CM MasterLiquid Pro 240 that works like a charm (though cooling performance is something to be desired for a 5930K)

Yes pump reads it works in Turkey stuff is too expensive 1USD is 3.5 TL and there are sale taxes too 18%  which makes all the custom stuff incredibly expensive they increase the prices because not many buys custom loop stuff is too expensive..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I am now having the same problem, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Artan Vafaei said:

I am now having the same problem, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have switched to air but if you have warranty send it if you dont i think first thing is to try if the pump works after that is there any bubble in radiator shake it and try if that doesnt help probably you gonna have to add more liquid but it will eventually stop working because it could have corrosion....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×