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No Signal on Computer after Creator's Update

Archarin

           It all started when I sat down to my desktop and noticed the long-awaited Creator's Update was bestowed upon me by the people of Microsoft. It was late and I began the update. Everything seemed normal. It showed the percent progress and was running smoothly. After a while, I returned to my computer and noticed the computer was running, but there was no output to the monitor. I figured the update was just finishing up and the computer would restart normally. I went to bed and awoke to find the exact same scene as the night before. No signal, but the computer still running. I pressed the power button and nothing happened. I held the power button and turned off the unruly beast. This would mark the beginning of weeks of troubleshooting.

 

          Let's just quickly go over the situation. There's no signal from the graphics card across multiple monitors. The BIOS is not displaying. I reset the CMOS and only used one stick of multiple types of RAM. I used another graphics card (GTX 660) in the 980Ti's place. I tried multiple PCIe slots. I installed a different power supply. I unplugged all the drives except a boot drive. I attempted booting from a USB stick. I took the boot drive out of the computer and put it into another computer where it was confirmed working. I also put the 980Ti in this computer, with the boot drive, and reinstalled the graphics card drivers. (And it was all working) An interesting thing to note is that the graphics card was not recognized in the other computer until I reinstalled the drivers.

 

          So, to recap, the boot drive and graphics card work together in another computer, but not in the one I'm trying to fix. When I swapped the power supply, I unfortunately was forced to use one CPU power cable running from the possibly broken power supply, but this didn't seem to change anything. I'd say it's not likely to either be related to the CPU, motherboard, or maybe PSU. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Heres the list

Spoiler

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor  ($374.33 @ B&H) 
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($119.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: MSI - X99A SLI KRAIT EDITION ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($289.89 @ Amazon) 
Memory: Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($75.88 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($75.88 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($174.58 @ B&H) 
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card  ($799.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: NZXT - H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($159.98 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair - 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($149.99 @ Amazon) 
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($89.89 @ OutletPC) 
Other: NZXT Grid+ V2 
Other: CableMod BLACK / WHITE ($49.95)
Total: $2429.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-25 19:55 EDT-0400

 

 

GTX 980 Ti / 5820k / 16 GB DDR4 / 500 GB SSD / ATH-M50X

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I think I found your Problem

 

Windows 10

 

It borked itself. 

 

MacOS: 10,000,000

Windows 10: -10,000,000

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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1 minute ago, DrMacintosh said:

I think I found your Problem

 

Windows 10

 

It borked itself. 

 

MacOS: 10,000,000

Windows 10: -10,000,000

I'm writing this from a Macbook Air. I've had to resort to Apple.

GTX 980 Ti / 5820k / 16 GB DDR4 / 500 GB SSD / ATH-M50X

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Just now, Archarin said:

I'm writing this from a Macbook Air. I've had to resort to Apple.

xD 

 

Oh man this is both terrible and amazing at the same time. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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Updated with parts list.

GTX 980 Ti / 5820k / 16 GB DDR4 / 500 GB SSD / ATH-M50X

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If I'm looking to purchase a replacement part to test with, would it be better to get a new power supply or new motherboard?

GTX 980 Ti / 5820k / 16 GB DDR4 / 500 GB SSD / ATH-M50X

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I'd say motherboard.

QUOTE when replying to others / Quality over Quantity in your posts / Avoid ambiguous topic titles

Desktop: "Shockwave" Core i7-5820K / GTX 970 SSC / ASUS X99 Deluxe / 16GB DDR4 / 120GB Samsung 850 EVO / 2TB WD Black Caviar
Laptop:  "Archippos"  Dell XPS 15:  Core i7-7700HQ  /  GTX 1050  /  16GB DDR4  /  512GB NVMe PCI-E SSD

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