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Ryzen CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT (BSOD) Windows 10

Go to solution Solved by Michael Boniface,

GUYS

 

My RAM wans't on the compatibility list and screwed everything up. Got some compatible sticks, all is well now!

Hi all,

 

Just got this setup today:

Ryzen 5 1600;

Crucial Ballistix DDR4 2400;

MSI B350 Tomahawk;nt

 

Running Windows 10. After booting up the PC and getting in to Windows I get 10-20mins until a Blue Screen comes up which says CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT and the PC shuts down. 

When I installed the parts I used gloves, although i touched the top of the CPU, leaving a bit of fingerprint dark smudge on it. Tried cleaning it with a bit of tissue but to no avail and didnt want to mess with it anymore so i just installed it. 

The temps on the CPU are fine 30/40.

 

I flashed BIOS to the newsest version beforeever booting the PC...

 

What can I do?!

 

 

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lower ram clockspeed

Ryzen 5 3600 stock | 2x16GB C13 3200MHz (AFR) | GTX 760 (Sold the VII)| ASUS Prime X570-P | 6TB WD Gold (128MB Cache, 2017)

Samsung 850 EVO 240 GB 

138 is a good number.

 

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A Ryzen system getting a BSOD? This is new, I have only seen black screens and lockups.

 

Make sure everything is running stock and run some stability tests (eg AIDA64, prime95, memtest).

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Is anything overclocked? Reset to default and try again, if it doesn't happen anymore then you had an unstable OC and need to adjust it. Start by OCing the CPU and stress testing it, then once you're sure that's stable you can start thinking about the RAM.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Other Systems:

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Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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9 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Is anything overclocked? Reset to default and try again, if it doesn't happen anymore then you had an unstable OC and need to adjust it. Start by OCing the CPU and stress testing it, then once you're sure that's stable you can start thinking about the RAM.

 

18 minutes ago, DrMikeNZ said:

A Ryzen system getting a BSOD? This is new, I have only seen black screens and lockups.

 

Make sure everything is running stock and run some stability tests (eg AIDA64, prime95, memtest).

 

21 minutes ago, themctipers said:

lower ram clockspeed

Nothing is OC'd. Is it normal for CPU temp to go from 40-60 in Bios?
Going to lower ram speed now. 

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Just now, Michael Boniface said:

 

 

Nothing is OC'd. Is it normal for CPU speed to go from 40-60 in Bios?
Going to lower ram speed now. 

I'm not sure what that means? CPU speed would be in Mhz (somewhere between 0 and 4100Mhz depending on load and boost), do you mean CPU temps are 40-60C? That's a bit high for idle temps. Or do you mean 40-60% usage which is also too high for when you're in the BIOS.

 

Either way, the first thing to do is set everything to stock and stress test. If you still have issues then run Windows Memory Diagnostic and/or memtest86 to make sure it's not a bad RAM stick.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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1 minute ago, pyrojoe34 said:

I'm not sure what that means? CPU speed would be in Mhz (somewhere between 0 and 4100Mhz depending on load and boost), do you mean CPU temps are 40-60C? That's a bit high for idle temps. Or do you mean 40-60% usage which is also too high for when you're in the BIOS.

 

Either way, the first thing to do is set everything to stock and stress test. If you still have issues then run Windows Memory Diagnostic and/or memtest86 to make sure it's not a bad RAM stick.

Sorry, what I meant was 40-60 in temp. Changed RAM speed and now my board cant find my hard drives to boot.... this is a gift that keeps on giving

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6 minutes ago, Michael Boniface said:

Sorry, what I meant was 40-60 in temp. Changed RAM speed and now my board cant find my hard drives to boot.... this is a gift that keeps on giving

Manually reset your CMOS to default the BIOS (shutdown and turn off your PSU, jump the CMOS reset pin or pull the CMOS battery for ~30sec).

 

Bad RAM seems like the most likely, then mobo would be my next guess and the CPU is the least likely (but possible).

 

Also if your temps are 60C in the bios then you're having a cooling issue. What cooler are you using? Try re-seating it.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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4 minutes ago, Michael Boniface said:

this is a gift that keeps on giving

Welcome to Ryzen.

Turn off PSU, unplug from wall, remove CMOS battery for 60-90 seconds, then reinstall, connect and turn on.

On my Ryzen motherboard the CMOS jumper did not work for some reason, but you can try that instead if you prefer.

 

4 minutes ago, Michael Boniface said:

Sorry, what I meant was 40-60 in temp.

That is far too high idling in the BIOS. I recommend double checking the CPU cooler mount. And recheck temperatures once back in windows.

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18 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Manually reset your CMOS to default the BIOS (shutdown and turn off your PSU, jump the CMOS reset pin or pull the CMOS battery for ~30sec).

 

Bad RAM seems like the most likely, then mobo would be my next guess and the CPU is the least likely (but possible).

 

Ok, I got the SSD's to show up again (my fault for them dissapearing).

 

1) Have the Ram running at 2133mhz. Will see where it takes me. 

 

2) Also read something about windows 10 update fixing this problem (as im still on the original windows 10 version)

 

3) Upping the voltage seems to have helped a couple of folks..

 

14 minutes ago, DrMikeNZ said:

Welcome to Ryzen.

Turn off PSU, unplug from wall, remove CMOS battery for 60-90 seconds, then reinstall, connect and turn on.

On my Ryzen motherboard the CMOS jumper did not work for some reason, but you can try that instead if you prefer.

 

That is far too high idling in the BIOS. I recommend double checking the CPU cooler mount. And recheck temperatures once back in windows.

Will give that a shot. In Windows I'm 30-45 (idling)

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1 minute ago, Michael Boniface said:

 

Ok, I got the SSD's to show up again (my fault for them dissapearing).

 

1) Have the Ram running at 2133mhz. Will see where it takes me. 

 

2) Also read something about windows 10 update fixing this problem (as im still on the original windows 10 version)

 

3) Upping the voltage seems to have helped a couple of folks..

Yes, you should update Windows, driver and OS updates will have a big impact on a brand new architecture like Zen.

 

Don't bother with any OCing or voltage changes until you are certain that everything is stable and working correctly at stock speeds. If something is not stable at stock speeds with stock voltage then you should RMA it.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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1 minute ago, Michael Boniface said:

Will give that a shot. In Windows I'm 30-45 (idling)

Not as bad, could be a calibration issue with the reading in the BIOS. What are the ambient temperatures? Also check temperatures under load, if that is fine then I wouldn't worry about the CPU cooler.

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1 minute ago, DrMikeNZ said:

Not as bad, could be a calibration issue with the reading in the BIOS. What are the ambient temperatures? Also check temperatures under load, if that is fine then I wouldn't worry about the CPU cooler.

 

3 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Yes, you should update Windows, driver and OS updates will have a big impact on a brand new architecture like Zen.

 

Don't bother with any OCing or voltage changes until you are certain that everything is stable and working correctly at stock speeds. If something is not stable at stock speeds with stock voltage then you should RMA it.

 

37 minutes ago, themctipers said:

lower ram clockspeed

 

Ok Guys. 2133 mhz didnt do the job. Going to remove CMOS battery and try and sneak a windows update in

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Just now, Michael Boniface said:

 

 

 

Ok Guys. 2133 mhz didnt do the job. Going to remove CMOS battery and try and sneak a windows update in

After you try those two things the next step is to test your RAM. I recently had regular BSODs and a quick Win Memory Diagnostic run revealed some bad sectors. RMAed it and haven't had an issue since.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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3 hours ago, pyrojoe34 said:

After you try those two things the next step is to test your RAM. I recently had regular BSODs and a quick Win Memory Diagnostic run revealed some bad sectors. RMAed it and haven't had an issue since.

 

3 hours ago, DrMikeNZ said:

Not as bad, could be a calibration issue with the reading in the BIOS. What are the ambient temperatures? Also check temperatures under load, if that is fine then I wouldn't worry about the CPU cooler.

 

Ok Guys. All hell has breaken lose... I can't get into Windows.

 

After resetting CMOS, when i turned on the PC the windows logo would show up and the loading circle would instantaneously freeze, sometimes it would say "prepairing auto repair", but would freeze instantanously.

 

I've flashed countless USB drives with different Windows 10 versions, updated BIOS, downgraded BIOS, reset CMOS, Disabled Safe Boot, Enabled Legacy Mode, chose the non-UEFI version of the USB drive in bios... and when I boot from the USB the Windows 10 logo shows up and the loading circle freezes instantaneously. I removed the SSD that had windows on it (still have another one plugged in) and nothing.

 

WHAT NOW?

 

 

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26 minutes ago, Michael Boniface said:

-snip-

Hmm, sadly it's hard to tell what's wrong...but maybe start with RMAing the motherboard? Even the CPU might be bad.

 

You can also try running a memory test to see if the RAM is still good or not.

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Ok Guys, I flashed the BIOS to the latest version and somehow that allowed me to install Windows. I was also able to update windows to its most recent version... Task manager says the PC was on for about 6hours last night (presume it doesnt keep logging hours if it crashes and restarts).

 

Started up Battlefield 1, as soon as I am entering a map computer turnsoff and Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool starts (No problems found).

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15 hours ago, DrMikeNZ said:

Not as bad, could be a calibration issue with the reading in the BIOS. What are the ambient temperatures? Also check temperatures under load, if that is fine then I wouldn't worry about the CPU cooler.

Ryzen bumps up temperatures by 20c, don't worry.

 

Try bumping the system agent or ring voltage.

3600X @ stocke | 5600XT TUF OC @ 1850 | 2x16 + 2x8 RAM 3200 HD | 1tb Samsung 970 EVO Plus | Lian Li 205M | TT Toughpower Grand RGB 850 | throwaway b450 asus mobo | BQ cooler

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Hi all,

 

Just re-built my PC. Specs are as follow:

- Ryzen 5 1600

- MSI B350 Tomahawk

- 8GB DDR4 Crucial Ballistix 2400mhz

- Corsair Rm1000

- GTX 770 (pending update)

 

After setting everything up with Windows 10, the PC wouldn't stay on for more than 10-20 mins. I flashed and unflashed bios, downloaded all drivers and problem continued. After resetting CMOS, PC would freeze at loading screen. Tried to do a fresh install of Windows (Bootable USB), I couldn't load the USB as it would also freeze. Was able to get around this with a BIOS update, have a fresh install of Windows (with updated Drivers), and the PC stayed on idling for about 6hours before I turned it off. Seems like the problem was that I hadn't run Windows update and updated to the most recent version. Well, at least that got rid of that problem..

 

THE PROBLEM AS IT IS:

 

I downloaded Battlefied 1 - as soon as I spawned in the game the PC shut down and restarted itself. Tried a second time and it entered a Windows Memory Test automatically - no errors were found.

 

I uninstalled BF1, and when trying to download it again (thought it could have to do with corrupt files), PC restarts itself as soon as it begins downloading. 

 

Also, Windows (in system properties) says I have 8gb ram installed, but only 3.93 are usable. In Cpu-z it shows both of my 4gb ram sticks. In BIOS it also shows both my Ram sticks but in DRAM says 4gb...

 

What now?

 

Thank you guys

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Temps?

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K | Motherboard: AsRock X99 Extreme4 | Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 1080 G1 Gaming | RAM: 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws4 2133MHz | Storage: 1 x Samsung 860 EVO 1TB | 1 x WD Green 2TB | 1 x WD Blue 500GB | PSU: Corsair RM750x | Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (White) | Cooling: Arctic Freezer i32

 

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Could you check Windows Event Viewer?

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Buy whatever product is best for you, not what product is "best" for the market.

 

Interested in computer architecture? Still in middle or high school? P.M. me!

 

I love computer hardware and feel free to ask me anything about that (or phones). I especially like SSDs. But please do not ask me anything about Networking, programming, command line stuff, or any relatively hard software stuff. I know next to nothing about that.

 

Compooters:

Spoiler

Desktop:

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CPU: i7 6700k, CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3, Motherboard: MSI Z170a KRAIT GAMING, RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 4x4gb DDR4-2666 MHz, Storage: SanDisk SSD Plus 240gb + OCZ Vertex 180 480 GB + Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 7200 RPM, Video Card: EVGA GTX 970 SSC, Case: Fractal Design Define S, Power Supply: Seasonic Focus+ Gold 650w Yay, Keyboard: Logitech G710+, Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum, Headphones: B&O H9i, Monitor: LG 29um67 (2560x1080 75hz freesync)

Home Server:

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CPU: Pentium G4400, CPU Cooler: Stock, Motherboard: MSI h110l Pro Mini AC, RAM: Hyper X Fury DDR4 1x8gb 2133 MHz, Storage: PNY CS1311 120gb SSD + two Segate 4tb HDDs in RAID 1, Video Card: Does Intel Integrated Graphics count?, Case: Fractal Design Node 304, Power Supply: Seasonic 360w 80+ Gold, Keyboard+Mouse+Monitor: Does it matter?

Laptop (I use it for school):

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Surface book 2 13" with an i7 8650u, 8gb RAM, 256 GB storage, and a GTX 1050

And if you're curious (or a stalker) I have a Just Black Pixel 2 XL 64gb

 

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4 minutes ago, DocSwag said:

Could you check Windows Event Viewer?

Which part of it in particular? Have never used it before. Here goes a screenshot!

1.PNG

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6 minutes ago, Dogeystyle said:

That Windows message seems weird, are you sure you're on x64 windows?

Positive. My bootable ISO was a 64 bit and Windows recognizes it as a 64 bit Pro version

8 minutes ago, PCGuy_5960 said:

Temps?

CPU - Idling between 35 -43... I ran CPUZ stress test for about 40mins and it didnt go past 64

Mobo is in the 30s

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