Multicopter Megathread

[Daysy]

13 minutes ago, Not_Sean said:

Seeing where you going is overrated. Need to fly in that DANGER ZONE!! 

Haha so true, almost hit a dog walker I didn't see under some trees the other day and decided it was time for an upgrade

[LATINO WATER BOTTEL]

On 2/20/2018 at 2:48 PM, Hackentosher said:

I said that a while ago. As I've learned more, I believe the wearing is on the brushes that transfer energy to the commutator (the center thing you were talking about). A lot of power tools let you swap the brushes out as they wear, but not so in small brushed motors found in rc applications. 

Ahh sorry I didn't want to go through 49 pages to see that you had said it already. lol

[KaminKevCrew]

Can it be tomorrow yet? I have two flying related packages coming tomorrow, one of which includes a Laforge V4 module that I've been waiting on for weeks...

 

I also have an Armattan Rooster coming in, since I broke my Fu-RC Kore V2. 

 

Additionally, I have an RDQ Mach 1 that I'm going to be building with the motors from the Kore, but one of the motors has a dented bell that binds a bit, so I'm going to be doing a bit of bashing tomorrow, just to get it spinning freely again until I can grab another one.

[Not_Sean]

18 hours ago, KaminKevCrew said:

Can it be tomorrow yet? I have two flying related packages coming tomorrow, one of which includes a Laforge V4 module that I've been waiting on for weeks...

 

I also have an Armattan Rooster coming in, since I broke my Fu-RC Kore V2. 

 

Additionally, I have an RDQ Mach 1 that I'm going to be building with the motors from the Kore, but one of the motors has a dented bell that binds a bit, so I'm going to be doing a bit of bashing tomorrow, just to get it spinning freely again until I can grab another one.

and he's me just waiting on a frame I don't have any other parts for  

[JokerProduction]

Anyone know if the throttle shown on the betaflight OSD is showing the stick position or the throttle out to the motors (in %)?  Which would not be the same value if you are using a throttle curve.

[Hackentosher]

12 minutes ago, JokerProduction said:

Anyone know if the throttle shown on the betaflight OSD is showing the stick position or the throttle out to the motors (in %)?  Which would not be the same value if you are using a throttle curve.

Pretty sure it's stick position because each motor is at a different speed all the time to keep the craft stable. Ever arm your quad plugged into betaflight (props off!!!) and notice the motors tab going wild? 

[LittleCarrot]

I have a Yi 4K, Yi (1st gen), Runcam 1 (video cam), Runcam 2 (video cam), and Foxeer Legend (video cam). Anyone interested in trading for some goggles or gopro session?

[Hackentosher]

7 hours ago, LittleCarrot said:

I have a Yi 4K, Yi (1st gen), Runcam 1 (video cam), Runcam 2 (video cam), and Foxeer Legend (video cam). Anyone interested in trading for some goggles or gopro session?

Maybe, if a local sale for my predator v2s goes through, would you be interested in a trade for the yi? 

 

Also i flew like a week or two ago and realized of all the clips, this one wasn't too bad 

Also this is what happens when you fly a stock tune on really really banged up props. 

[LittleCarrot]

15 hours ago, Hackentosher said:

Maybe, if a local sale for my predator v2s goes through, would you be interested in a trade for the yi? 

 

Also i flew like a week or two ago and realized of all the clips, this one wasn't too bad 

Also this is what happens when you fly a stock tune on really really banged up props. 

I run teleporters, is the fov or features greater than the predators

[Hackentosher]

1 minute ago, LittleCarrot said:

I run teleporters, is the fov or features greater than the predators

I'm pretty sure they're identical oops

[JokerProduction]

45 minutes ago, LittleCarrot said:

I run teleporters, is the fov or features greater than the predators

I've Personally climbed the ladder from predators to domV2 to domHD and say this chart is pretty damn accurate on what to expect.  The Built in DVR on the DOM series is soo nice to have.

 

[LittleCarrot]

I hope the person who stole all my quad shit. Accidentally arms and full throttles and tries to catch it.

[Not_Sean]

12 hours ago, LittleCarrot said:

I hope the person who stole all my quad shit. Accidentally arms and full throttles and tries to catch it.

What happened?

 

[LittleCarrot]

4 hours ago, Not_Sean said:

What happened?

 

Car broken into in SF

[Hackentosher]

45 minutes ago, LittleCarrot said:

Car broken into in SF

Oh you're in SF? I think @KaminKevCrew is moving out there soon. Also there's a popular long range pilot, diegofpv there as well. He's on the FPV Chat Slack if you're interested. 

[Hackentosher]

Calling all wanabe enginerds, any ideas on how to make this tail wheel steerable with the rudder? Right now it looks like it may not have a steerable tail wheel, but I'd like it to.

[KaminKevCrew]

3 hours ago, Hackentosher said:

Calling all wanabe enginerds, any ideas on how to make this tail wheel steerable with the rudder? Right now it looks like it may not have a steerable tail wheel, but I'd like it to.

Just run an extension on the rudder control surface down to the post that the wheel is mounted on. Add a hinge at the bottom of the empenage there.

 

Also, yes, I am located in SF...

[Hackentosher]

1 hour ago, KaminKevCrew said:

Just run an extension on the rudder control surface down to the post that the wheel is mounted on. Add a hinge at the bottom of the empenage there.

 

I think I wasn't clear, my problem isn't the linkage, but how to allow the wheel to pivot freely. For scale, the wheel back there is about 20mm in diameter.

[KaminKevCrew]

5 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

I think I wasn't clear, my problem isn't the linkage, but how to allow the wheel to pivot freely. For scale, the wheel back there is about 20mm in diameter.

You could just have the wheel supported on one side, and allow the wheel to be slightly offset from the rudder's control surface, then you only have to have a single shaft running down, and you could make it cylindrical at that point so that you don't need any more clearance than just the shaft.

[Hackentosher]

Just now, KaminKevCrew said:

You could just have the wheel supported on one side, and allow the wheel to be slightly offset from the rudder's control surface, then you only have to have a single shaft running down, and you could make it cylindrical at that point so that you don't need any more clearance than just the shaft.

Hey that's a good idea, I'll see what I can come up with. Piano wire should do the trick  

[KaminKevCrew]

2 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

Hey that's a good idea, I'll see what I can come up with. Piano wire should do the trick  

I'm just glad that my idea made sense!

 

EDIT: You could also use something like this:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/round-copper-tube-2mm-od-x-36mm.html?countrycode=US&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5t7UBRDaARIsAOreQtghv3Zs02PpCSmlMEvJYdMz_LvgFHWOauW7RzfkYIwLQEHSrpjoJvsaArbvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

if you want more rigidity without having the weight  penalty of solid metal (though copper isn't necessarily the best material for that - they do make that stuff in brass and aluminum/steel, I'm sure.) And, with a metal tube, you could use some bushings on the top and bottom of the empennage for support and smooth pivoting.

[Hackentosher]

8 minutes ago, KaminKevCrew said:

I'm just glad that my idea made sense!

 

EDIT: You could also use something like this:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/round-copper-tube-2mm-od-x-36mm.html?countrycode=US&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5t7UBRDaARIsAOreQtghv3Zs02PpCSmlMEvJYdMz_LvgFHWOauW7RzfkYIwLQEHSrpjoJvsaArbvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

if you want more rigidity without having the weight  penalty of solid metal (though copper isn't necessarily the best material for that - they do make that stuff in brass and aluminum/steel, I'm sure.) And, with a metal tube, you could use some bushings on the top and bottom of the empennage for support and smooth pivoting.

I want something that I can bolt the wheel to as I plan to use a 6mm od 3mm id bearing for all the wheels. What I am worried about is the current strut being too rigid and snapping on a less than perfect landing. I know that if you form a printed part in a thin, zig zag pattern, it's rather springy and flexible. I'll keep playing around.

[KaminKevCrew]

2 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

I want something that I can bolt the wheel to as I plan to use a 6mm od 3mm id bearing for all the wheels. What I am worried about is the current strut being too rigid and snapping on a less than perfect landing. I know that if you form a printed part in a thin, zig zag pattern, it's rather springy and flexible. I'll keep playing around.

If you use some wire and bend it backwards, you'll get the desired spring effect. When I get home I'll post a photo of my model cub, which has that setup on the tail. It works quite well (as long as the wire doesn't create its own cavity in your foamy - that's what happened on mine. I need to fill the pocket with some epoxy...)

[Hackentosher]

3 minutes ago, KaminKevCrew said:

If you use some wire and bend it backwards, you'll get the desired spring effect. When I get home I'll post a photo of my model cub, which has that setup on the tail. It works quite well (as long as the wire doesn't create its own cavity in your foamy - that's what happened on mine. I need to fill the pocket with some epoxy...)

Yeah that'll be a last ditch attempt. This project is supposed to be as 3d printed as possible, so I'd like to just use piano wire for the shafts if possible.

[Hackentosher]

@KaminKevCrew here's what I came up with