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LittleCarrot

@Hackentosher @LittleCarrot thanks will give that one a shot. I can shove a couple lipos or something in there with it to use the space.

I have a TS100 as my only soldering iron and while very big joints like the XT60 can be a little tricky I find it works great, I use mine from a 12v power supply at home without any problems maintaining heat at all.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Daysy said:

@Hackentosher @LittleCarrot thanks will give that one a shot. I can shove a couple lipos or something in there with it to use the space.

I have a TS100 as my only soldering iron and while very big joints like the XT60 can be a little tricky I find it works great, I use mine from a 12v power supply at home without any problems maintaining heat at all.

What kind of batteries are you using it with? How many cells?

 

I haven't really used mine on battery yet, but it definitely maintains heat on a power supply. I also use a different soldering iron on other projects, which only connects to batteries. It doesn't have any temperature adjustment, but it gets REALLY hot on 4s.

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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59 minutes ago, KaminKevCrew said:

 

I have one and I love it. It actually heats up joints as fast as, if not faster than, my hakko 888-D.

 

I love it for all sorts of stuff. What temp are you running yours at?

 

Doesn't it default to F? If so, that's a great way to not be able to heat up your joints. I like to solder most things around 350C, but if it doesn't specify, 350F is very different. @LittleCarrot

ASU

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Im pretty sure its 350c, it takes awhile to do simple connections like esc. 

 

also i run it at 400c

"In the middle of every difficulty lies opportunity."
- Albert Einstein

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33 minutes ago, LittleCarrot said:

Im pretty sure its 350c, it takes awhile to do simple connections like esc. 

 

also i run it at 400c

I do my day to day soldering at 330c (not just quads but other projects too) and never have any problem, I haven't ever had mine past 350c even for very large joints, I think something must be wrong for you to be having problems at 400c

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6 hours ago, LittleCarrot said:

Im pretty sure its 350c, it takes awhile to do simple connections like esc. 

 

also i run it at 400c

Maybe the tip isnt making good connection to the heater? 

ASU

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10 hours ago, Hackentosher said:

Maybe the tip isnt making good connection to the heater? 

Nahh heater is inside the tips, the tip could be oxidized that would cause poor thermal coupling to the joint

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3 minutes ago, Daysy said:

Nahh heater is inside the tips, the tip could be oxidized that would cause poor thermal coupling to the joint

Oh I didn't know that. I figured it was like a normal hakko tip, just really skinny in the middle. 

ASU

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50 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

Oh I didn't know that. I figured it was like a normal hakko tip, just really skinny in the middle. 

Yeah the element and temp sensor are inside the tips, I'd say that is actually one of the TS100s bigger cons as it makes the tips quite expensive to replace.

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4 hours ago, Daysy said:

Yeah the element and temp sensor are inside the tips, I'd say that is actually one of the TS100s bigger cons as it makes the tips quite expensive to replace.

It makes the tips expensive to replace sure. But, with proper care, a tip can last the lifetime of the heating element, in which case it's actually a pro -you don't have to go to the trouble of replacing it separately. Also, if you have multiple tips, having a separate heating element also means fewer hours on each individual heating element which is a plus.

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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2 hours ago, Hackentosher said:

finally got to fly!!! 

 

one of my unifies is dead :(

Noooo!!!

 

I broke an arm on my Kore V2 yesterday. That means I'm out a $140 frame... Oh well.

 

I'm going to buy another one eventually, but it's going to a be frame reserved for racing over grass. I think the frame was too stiff to be able to take in impact into a basketball hoop. There was absolutely zero flex in that frame, which is great for speed and feel and agility, but terrible for impact absorption. Lesson learned! Buy frames with removable arms!

 

On a side note, my Tramp HV is great!

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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7 hours ago, KaminKevCrew said:

Noooo!!!

 

I broke an arm on my Kore V2 yesterday. That means I'm out a $140 frame... Oh well.

 

I'm going to buy another one eventually, but it's going to a be frame reserved for racing over grass. I think the frame was too stiff to be able to take in impact into a basketball hoop. There was absolutely zero flex in that frame, which is great for speed and feel and agility, but terrible for impact absorption. Lesson learned! Buy frames with removable arms!

 

On a side note, my Tramp HV is great!

Woah you broke an arm and the whole frame is dead? 

ASU

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16 hours ago, Hackentosher said:

Woah you broke an arm and the whole frame is dead? 

Yeah. The whole main body of the frame is one piece of molded UD carbon. It's a really cool frame, and I might grab another one, I just won't use it around concrete and basketball hoops. I might also repair it, as that's definitely possible since I know a few people that know how to work with carbon.

13 hours ago, LittleCarrot said:

Until today, I've never heard of it. It's kind of cool, but I highly doubt it's a full range radio, and it won't be able to use SBUS, I think. I'm pretty sure that only D16 type (and newer) receivers can do SBUS. If that's the case, you'll definitely have latency that's at least somewhat noticeable.

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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16 minutes ago, KaminKevCrew said:

Yeah. The whole main body of the frame is one piece of molded UD carbon. It's a really cool frame, and I might grab another one, I just won't use it around concrete and basketball hoops. I might also repair it, as that's definitely possible since I know a few people that know how to work with carbon.

 

Until today, I've never heard of it. It's kind of cool, but I highly doubt it's a full range radio, and it won't be able to use SBUS, I think. I'm pretty sure that only D16 type (and newer) receivers can do SBUS. If that's the case, you'll definitely have latency that's at least somewhat noticeable.

1

Might be more worth it to look at a frame with a lifetime warranty if you already spending that much, Know my new Cerberus V2 comes with one, and its a MultiGP frame. 

 

I also haven't seen that till today, but sure it'll be fine on SBUS, hell my Turingy Evo runs SBUS no worries and this is prob just a simplified cloned version of that. 

14 hours ago, LittleCarrot said:

I like it, at that price will hopefully get more people into the hobby, although that been said its not like the FRsky FS-T6 is expensive, and hell most of the guys I know started on one. Hell, I started on one until the Evo launched and never looked back since. 

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Obsidian:

MSI GE60 2PE i7-4700HQ / 860M / 12GB / WE 1TB / m.Sata 256gb/Elagto USB HD Capture Card

Razer Deathadder Chroma / Razer Blackwidow TE Chroma / Kingston Cloud2's / Sennheiser 429 / Logitech Z333

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1 hour ago, Legolessed said:

Hello everyone. I havent been on in like forever. How is everyone?

hey welcome back, I have a one quad that's been reliable for like over a year, and another that always sprouts a new issue.

ASU

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On 3/30/2017 at 5:56 PM, Hackentosher said:

Quads are a great balance, then jump up to octocopter for more capacity. 

 

Check banggood. 

 

I think it's because of how the motors are built. 8.5mm brushed motors don't have any cooling so maybe the magnets wear out. Also even the smallest brushless motors are significantly more powerful than brushed motors (referring to tiny whoop style stuff) so there isn't really a point that I see to using them. 

 

Or you could... You know... Make one post :P

 

from my research its due to the fact the brushed motors have little contacts connected to the center shaft witch wears down over time. Due to brushless not having this it makes them a lot better for underwater and long term use. 

 

Image result for difference between brushed and brushless motors

 

 

 

 

 

hopefully this helps you :)

0716-correct-motor-comparison.jpg

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14 hours ago, Legolessed said:

Hello everyone. I havent been on in like forever. How is everyone?

Welcome back man, I'm great. You been gone so long I got married and I'm not pregnant :P 

Redstone:
i7-4770 / Z97 / GTX 980 / Corsair 16GB  / H90 / 400C / Antec EDGE / Neutron GTX240 / Intel 240Gb / WD 2TB / BenQ XL24

Obsidian:

MSI GE60 2PE i7-4700HQ / 860M / 12GB / WE 1TB / m.Sata 256gb/Elagto USB HD Capture Card

Razer Deathadder Chroma / Razer Blackwidow TE Chroma / Kingston Cloud2's / Sennheiser 429 / Logitech Z333

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2 hours ago, LATINO WATER BOTTEL said:

from my research its due to the fact the brushed motors have little contacts connected to the center shaft witch wears down over time. Due to brushless not having this it makes them a lot better for underwater and long term use. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

hopefully this helps you :)

 

I said that a while ago. As I've learned more, I believe the wearing is on the brushes that transfer energy to the commutator (the center thing you were talking about). A lot of power tools let you swap the brushes out as they wear, but not so in small brushed motors found in rc applications. 

ASU

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11 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

I said that a while ago. As I've learned more, I believe the wearing is on the brushes that transfer energy to the commutator (the center thing you were talking about). A lot of power tools let you swap the brushes out as they wear, but not so in small brushed motors found in rc applications. 

We are at least lucky that single motors ain't that pricey so it is often a way easier option to just replace

Redstone:
i7-4770 / Z97 / GTX 980 / Corsair 16GB  / H90 / 400C / Antec EDGE / Neutron GTX240 / Intel 240Gb / WD 2TB / BenQ XL24

Obsidian:

MSI GE60 2PE i7-4700HQ / 860M / 12GB / WE 1TB / m.Sata 256gb/Elagto USB HD Capture Card

Razer Deathadder Chroma / Razer Blackwidow TE Chroma / Kingston Cloud2's / Sennheiser 429 / Logitech Z333

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15 hours ago, LATINO WATER BOTTEL said:

from my research its due to the fact the brushed motors have little contacts connected to the center shaft witch wears down over time. Due to brushless not having this it makes them a lot better for underwater and long term use. hopefully this helps you :)

The main reason that you wouldn't want to use a brushed motor underwater is that a brushed motor has physical, moving electrical connections which can't be waterproofed. As such, you're going to lose some power due to the motor. Aside from that, yes, you do lose power because it's through brushes, etc.

 

(honestly, I don't even know when the question was initially asked, so I hope that I'm adding something here...

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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13 minutes ago, Daysy said:

Welcome back @Legolessed

  Hide contents

15191822394081673089461.thumb.jpg.4a495823e4d4307a7bf9cb198525e87a.jpg

New camera and VTX today.

 

excited to finally be able to fly with other people and to be able to see where I'm going! 

Seeing where you going is overrated. Need to fly in that DANGER ZONE!! 

Redstone:
i7-4770 / Z97 / GTX 980 / Corsair 16GB  / H90 / 400C / Antec EDGE / Neutron GTX240 / Intel 240Gb / WD 2TB / BenQ XL24

Obsidian:

MSI GE60 2PE i7-4700HQ / 860M / 12GB / WE 1TB / m.Sata 256gb/Elagto USB HD Capture Card

Razer Deathadder Chroma / Razer Blackwidow TE Chroma / Kingston Cloud2's / Sennheiser 429 / Logitech Z333

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