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Cpu temp with custom loop

1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

Yeah I found it, CPU 2 Fan is running at 800RPM, 1000 lower than it should be, not giving me the option to change it though?

You should be able to grab the curve and adjust it, or set "full speed" or turbo on the fan curve. The other option as already said would be command centre

 

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1 minute ago, stealth80 said:

You should be able to grab the curve and adjust it, or set "full speed" or turbo on the fan curve. The other option as already said would be command centre

Theres no curve, it just says CPU FAN2 level 1 temp all way till 4, then does the same with Fan speed

 

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

Theres no curve, it just says CPU FAN2 level 1 temp all way till 4, then does the same with Fan speed

 

Is there anywhere you can type anything in? sometimes you have to just use arrow keys and numbers etc, you should def be able to edit that fan curve

 

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1 minute ago, stealth80 said:

Is there anywhere you can type anything in? sometimes you have to just use arrow keys and numbers etc, you should def be able to edit that fan curve

Yea, I've set all the CPU2 Fan speeds to 100% and nothing has changed, still 800rpm

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

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Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

Yea, I've set all the CPU2 Fan speeds to 100% and nothing has changed, still 800rpm

Do you have all 3 fans on a hub plugged into it? if so try putting each fan on a different PWM connector. I used a sata powered PWM hub as 3 fans can be too much for one connector:

 

rmSDzv1.jpg?1

 

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9 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

Yeah I found it, CPU 2 Fan is running at 800RPM, 1000 lower than it should be, not giving me the option to change it though?

download speedfan, its great for fan control, if u need help setting it up watch this video:

 

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1 minute ago, stealth80 said:

Do you have all 3 fans on a hub plugged into it? if so try putting each fan on a different PWM connector. I used a sata powered PWM hub as 3 fans can be too much for one connector:

 

rmSDzv1.jpg?1

They're connected via 3-1 extension cable which is plugged into CPU2 Fan

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

They're connected via 3-1 extension cable which is plugged into CPU2 Fan

ok try one fan, see if it is able to go above 800rpm. Are you sure you aren't using any kind of low speed connection?

 

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1 minute ago, stealth80 said:

ok try one fan, see if it is able to go above 800rpm. Are you sure you aren't using any kind of low speed connection?

I just checked and they're actually Vardar fans, not the PWN fans that actually was advertised, does this make a difference/

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

I just checked and they're actually Vardar fans, not the PWN fans that actually was advertised, does this make a difference/

Yes cause the control is different. My bios has an option to flick on the fan curve page to change between PWM and voltage fans. They will still work fine, but the minimum speed will be higher than that of PWM (not a problem) so at this moment it sounds like theyre stuck on min speed cause the board is sending a PWM signal to increase the speed

 

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4 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

ok try one fan, see if it is able to go above 800rpm. Are you sure you aren't using any kind of low speed connection?

So when I saved the settings and booted, the fans went straight to 1800rpm, and I can hear loud sloshing in the radiator? 

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

So when I saved the settings and booted, the fans went straight to 1800rpm, and I can hear loud sloshing in the radiator? 

You probably air in the system, its much easier to bleed the rig at full speed. all that's happened is the pump is now on full speed also. Put the pump on a different header and set it to monitor CPU temp in PWM mode. But for now I would leave it and crack a cap to let the air bleed out. Pick your case up and move it around so the air escapes. I use the cap on top of my res for this, is yours mounted vertically? Also try now with all fans plugged in at full speed and see how temps are

 

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3 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

You probably air in the system, its much easier to bleed the rig at full speed. all that's happened is the pump is now on full speed also. Put the pump on a different header and set it to monitor CPU temp in PWM mode. But for now I would leave it and crack a cap to let the air bleed out. Pick your case up and move it around so the air escapes. I use the cap on top of my res for this, is yours mounted vertically? Also try now with all fans plugged in at full speed and see how temps are

How could it have air? there was always 1 inch of fluid over res, crack a cap? you mean take the res lid off? temp hasn't changed, can air really cause that much of a difference?

 

I'll move it around and bleed it tomorrow, What I don't understand is that, why does the CPU spike to it's max temp straight away? like I ran AIDA64 and within a second it went straight to 55c?, why is it doing that?

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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Air is a major problem, it doesn't transfer heat very well. Theres air in all the parts when you fill it and it gets trapped. It takes a good few hours to get it out it. Res cap off (the small one) leave pump on full and move the case around to help it escape, cycle the power on off, it takes a while.

 

As for the CPU spike, its quite normal for that to happen, mine does it aswell as the temp is measured on the cpu not the fluid so the temp goes up straight away, it would be like putting your hand on a hot surface and leaving it there and using water to cool your hand

 

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1 minute ago, stealth80 said:

Air is a major problem, it doesn't transfer heat very well. Theres air in all the parts when you fill it and it gets trapped. It takes a good few hours to get it out it. Res cap off (the small one) leave pump on full and move the case around to help it escape, cycle the power on off, it takes a while

Is that why it spikes to max temp straight away? would it be worth taking the cap off while I'm sleeping?, I'm a mountain biker mechanic, so do you think using bleeding techniques for brakes would apply here?

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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2 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

Is that why it spikes to max temp straight away? would it be worth taking the cap off while I'm sleeping?, I'm a mountain biker mechanic, so do you think using bleeding techniques for brakes would apply here?

no it doesn't unfortunately. I'm a helicopter engineer (genuinely am lol) and none of the techniques I have used. You don't need to pass any fluid through, just leave it on full pump speed and leave the cap off (I assume its like me res?) and the air will slowly pass through. As I said give some tilting in different planes to help the air escape, especially from the res. You will know how much air is in the loop if you put a small mark on the res to show the current fluid level, the fluid will drop as air escapes

 

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3 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

no it doesn't unfortunately. I'm a helicopter engineer (genuinely am lol) and none of the techniques I have used. You don't need to pass any fluid through, just leave it on full pump speed and leave the cap off (I assume its like me res?) and the air will slowly pass through. As I said give some tilting in different planes to help the air escape, especially from the res. You will know how much air is in the loop if you put a small mark on the res to show the current fluid level, the fluid will drop as air escapes

Alright I'll try that, I'm guessing I should take some fluid out the res before I leave it on all night since it's like 1mm from the brim, also since the pump is on CPU1 Fan that would mean turning everything to 100% in BIOS would effectively turn the pump on full?, the res is same as yours

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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4 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

Alright I'll try that, I'm guessing I should take some fluid out the res before I leave it on all night since it's like 1mm from the brim, also since the pump is on CPU1 Fan that would mean turning everything to 100% in BIOS would effectively turn the pump on full?, the res is same as yours

Should be fine with the small cap off, just leave tissue around the top (not covering the small hole) incase there is any splashes (there shouldn't be) Get that pump on 100% it is much easier to bleed the system with it on full speed in my experience, and believe me, that "iced blood" build I showed you earlier was a bitch to bleed, 2x loops and it weighed a tonne!

 

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2 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

Should be fine with the small cap off, just leave tissue around the top (not covering the small hole) incase there is any splashes (there shouldn't be) Get that pump on 100% it is much easier to bleed the system with it on full speed in my experience, and believe me, that "iced blood" build I showed you earlier was a bitch to bleed, 2x loops and it weighed a tonne!

Whats strange is that, since I put the pump on 100% the air pocket that was in CPU block has gone and my idle temp has gone down to 25c, we'll see how it goes tomorrow, also why the little hole why not the whole cap?

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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3 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

Whats strange is that, since I put the pump on 100% the air pocket that was in CPU block has gone and my idle temp has gone down to 25c, we'll see how it goes tomorrow, also why the little hole why not the whole cap?

Prevent risk of splashing for the exact reason you said - massive improvement already!

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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1 minute ago, stealth80 said:

Prevent risk of splashing for the exact reason you said - massive improvement already!

Not as "massive" improvement over the 31c it was first time round, but it's something I know though soon as I start the test it's going straight to 55c lol, I'll open the little hole and I'll get back to you tomorrow with results

 

Thanks a lot for your help not alot of people would commit their time to help someone out, especially on this forum lol ;)

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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3 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

Not as "massive" improvement over the 31c it was first time round, but it's something I know though soon as I start the test it's going straight to 55c lol, I'll open the little hole and I'll get back to you tomorrow with results

 

Thanks a lot for your help not alot of people would commit their time to help someone out, especially on this forum lol ;)

Well a custom loop is an expensive outlay to have it not work, as I said at the start, something had to be wrong. 25C idle is pretty good, mine is 31C right now 4.7ghz and 1.25v. A good bleed and higher fan speeds will help a lot

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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9 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Well a custom loop is an expensive outlay to have it not work, as I said at the start, something had to be wrong. 25C idle is pretty good, mine is 31C right now 4.7ghz and 1.25v. A good bleed and higher fan speeds will help a lot

Just got back to PC, CPU was running at 19-21c (all cores) for idle, and as I speak right now using browser it sits at 20c, just about to try bleed it will get back with results.

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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10 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Well a custom loop is an expensive outlay to have it not work, as I said at the start, something had to be wrong. 25C idle is pretty good, mine is 31C right now 4.7ghz and 1.25v. A good bleed and higher fan speeds will help a lot

So after 30 mins or so of bleeding, I've got it within 1-3c of the AIO temps 48-49 for AIO this is 48-51c, this at 100% CPU on AIDA64 FPU, I'm still not exactly happy with that but it's better than 60c I was getting before, 21c idle temp still, should I settle for this? what temps do you think i should be getting at 100% and idle?, I'm 90% sure I got all the air out, could you tell me what test you use and we could compare?

 

 

EDIT: GTA V 33-37c, Better than the AIO

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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7 hours ago, Woofly94 said:

So after 30 mins or so of bleeding, I've got it within 1-3c of the AIO temps 48-49 for AIO this is 48-51c, this at 100% CPU on AIDA64 FPU, I'm still not exactly happy with that but it's better than 60c I was getting before, 21c idle temp still, should I settle for this? what temps do you think i should be getting at 100% and idle?, I'm 90% sure I got all the air out, could you tell me what test you use and we could compare?

 

 

EDIT: GTA V 33-37c, Better than the AIO

 
 

What temperature is your room at? But 21 at idle is nothing to turn your nose up about. Also glad to see you've somewhat sorted it! 

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