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NZXT H440 Airflow Help?

AllHokage

Hey everyone,

So I decided to finally try to overclock my i7 4790K and upon benchmarking the idle/loads temps (without overclocking) I noticed they didn't seem right. 

 

I'm getting around 35-40°C on idle on a 20°C night. Upon stress testing the CPU (100%-109% load) I was getting around 70°C for a solid 5 minutes, until it broke the 80°C range and instantly started going out of control in the 90°C range before I ended the test. Now I don't know if this is normal, but as soon as I ended the test it instantly went back down to 40°C?


So I believe something is wrong here, the CPU seems to be getting way to hot for the cooling solutions I have in place and or the temperature sensor is broken on the CPU/MOBO, as I don't understand how it can drop 40°C in a second?

EDIT: WHILE IN BIOS THE CPU IS 45°C

 

My Setup


CPU: i7 4790K 

Cooler: Corsair H105

Cooler Fans: 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM

Front Case Fans: 3x Be Quite! Silent Wings 2 PWM

Outtake Fan: 1x Be Quite! Silent Wings 2 PWM

Controller: Corsair commander mini

Case: NZXT H440


If anyone knows whats going on I would greatly appreciate the help :)

Might add this later...

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Remount your cooler and change the thermal paste. run the test again after that and make sure the fan on your watercooling is spinning.

I'm not an audiophile, I'm just really picky about my music... and my headphones... and my speakers... and my microphone. Other than that, I'm totally not an audiophile.

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3 minutes ago, WilliamDB said:

Remount your cooler and change the thermal paste. run the test again after that and make sure the fan on your watercooling is spinning.

Everything is spinning, thermal paste has been replaced and I've already remounted the cooler.

Might add this later...

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There is a chance you just lost the silicon lottery really bad. What program were you using? and have you recorded temps trying Prime95?

I'm not an audiophile, I'm just really picky about my music... and my headphones... and my speakers... and my microphone. Other than that, I'm totally not an audiophile.

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5 minutes ago, WilliamDB said:

There is a chance you just lost the silicon lottery really bad. What program were you using? and have you recorded temps trying Prime95?

Prime95 was the stress tester, Core Temp & CPU-ID were the temperature readers.

Also double checked with Corsair Link, all programs read the same within 4°C.

 

These temps seem way to bad to just be based on the silicon lottery especially with my cooling solution...

Might add this later...

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First thing to check is your mount. The Corsair AIOs have very stiff tubing which makes it very hard to mount the block flush unless it is entirely out of the system. Take the cooler out of the case, then mount the block with the tubes relaxed so you are positive you get flat, even pressure on the block/CPU interface. Then put it all back into the case. This is a common problem with the Corsair AIOs since the tubes that are very stiff and many people have a hard time mounting them flush (made a 20C difference to me and did the same to plenty of other people I told to try this).

 

 

What is your water temp showing during these tests?

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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2 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

First thing to check is your mount. The Corsair AIOs have very stiff tubing which makes it very hard to mount the block flush unless it is entirely out of the system. Take the cooler out of the case, then mount the block with the tubes relaxed so you are positive you get flat, even pressure on the block/CPU interface. Then put it all back into the case. This is a common problem with the Corsair AIOs since the tubes that are very stiff and many people have a hard time mounting them flush (made a 20C difference to me and did the same to plenty of other people I told to try this).

 

 

What is your water temp showing during these tests?

I'll give that a shot tomorrow then and let you know how it goes.

 

Also I believe the H105 doesn't record water temperatures.

Might add this later...

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1 minute ago, AllHokage said:

I'll give that a shot tomorrow then and let you know how it goes.

 

Also I believe the H105 doesn't record water temperatures.

It doesn't have a USB header connection to control it with Corsair Link? I'm not familiar with the H105 specifically maybe it doesn't monitor temps.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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4 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

It doesn't have a USB header connection to control it with Corsair Link? I'm not familiar with the H105 specifically maybe it doesn't monitor temps.

Actually it might, I had a single temperature tab what I had no clue what it was for. Apparently it was the MOBO and now that I think about it, the H105 is connected to the MOBO and not the link. So I'm guessing thats the waters temperature :)


I'll have to check tomorrow, as it's getting later her in Australia.


Thanks for the help!

Might add this later...

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14 hours ago, pyrojoe34 said:

First thing to check is your mount. The Corsair AIOs have very stiff tubing which makes it very hard to mount the block flush unless it is entirely out of the system. Take the cooler out of the case, then mount the block with the tubes relaxed so you are positive you get flat, even pressure on the block/CPU interface. Then put it all back into the case. This is a common problem with the Corsair AIOs since the tubes that are very stiff and many people have a hard time mounting them flush (made a 20C difference to me and did the same to plenty of other people I told to try this).

 

 

What is your water temp showing during these tests?

Just took it all apart and replaced it back onto the CPU. Temperatures are still the same :(

 

Just clarifying should the Pumps power be plugged into the motherboards fan header 1 like so?

EDIT: While I'm in the bios it's reading 45°C

image (2).jpeg

Might add this later...

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Sorry guys for the bulk posts today, just trying to eliminate all the possibilities of my CPU overheating.


So I was just wondering is this the best airflow setup for the lowest temperatures in my NZXT H440 case with the Corsair H105 watercooler? 

 

Cooling.png

 

Might add this later...

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Tbh in a case like that, it's quite hard to get minimal-to-bad airflow in there :P But to answer your question that seems like a pretty good analyses into how the airflow would be and it's safe to say that will be the best airflow look at the case as of yet :) 

 

10/10, IGN, would do again, and all that :P  

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32 minutes ago, AllHokage said:

snip

I personally like to use AIO's as intakes rather than exhausts.... but with the number of fans you have in your system none of your choices are going to make a whole lot of difference anyway.

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11 hours ago, AllHokage said:

Just took it all apart and replaced it back onto the CPU. Temperatures are still the same :(

 

Just clarifying should the Pumps power be plugged into the motherboards fan header 1 like so?

EDIT: While I'm in the bios it's reading 45°C

image (2).jpeg

Pump can be on the fan1 header or CPU optimal header if available. Or the CPU header. Won't really matter if you fans are set accordingly. 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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9 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

Pump can be on the fan1 header or CPU optimal header if available. Or the CPU header. Won't really matter if you fans are set accordingly. 

Well I've been though one hell of a ride today.


Troubleshooted the whole issue and the stock cooler did worse then the watercooler, meaning it's ether a faulty sensor as the CPU doesn't feel hot at all 5 minutes after reaching 100 C (Don't know if thats normal) or like you said I lost the silicone lottery *understatement imo*

 

Also now my PC isn't booting, I scratched the mobo while reinserting the watercooling and I believe I killed it :(

Might add this later...

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Clear cmos and try again. May need to reseat if you changed something again. I've thought I killed mine so many times but I always find away to it to turn back on. 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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On 12/2/2016 at 10:59 PM, ZenPC said:

Tbh in a case like that, it's quite hard to get minimal-to-bad airflow in there :P But to answer your question that seems like a pretty good analyses into how the airflow would be and it's safe to say that will be the best airflow look at the case as of yet :) 

10/10, IGN, would do again, and all that :P  

Actually, the H440 has pretty shoddy airflow. 

Mounting the rad as front intake would probably result in better temps.

 

@AllHokage

If you're worried about cpu temps, just monitor them with a stress test like OCCT.

What's your core voltage set to? On Auto, the value will almost always be too high and be the reason behind your high temps.

Please don't make multiple threads on the same discussion--they have been merged.

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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@WoodenMarker @Mick Naughty 

 

Took it into my local computer store today, ended up being if more then 2 ram slots were occupied at a given time the system would automatically shutdown. This was caused by the CPU overheating to 100C and apparently shorting out some of the RAM slots. The guys there ended up giving their diagnosis's for free and the RMA paid for out of good will :)

They sent a RMA for the motherboard and fingers crossed gigabyte will replace it for me aswell. 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help, never would of thought it would be something like this.

Might add this later...

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10 hours ago, WoodenMarker said:

Actually, the H440 has pretty shoddy airflow. 

Mounting the rad as front intake would probably result in better temps.

The original H440 has bad airflow. I have the new H440, no issues.

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On 12/5/2016 at 10:43 AM, WoodenMarker said:

Actually, the H440 has pretty shoddy airflow. 

Mounting the rad as front intake would probably result in better temps.

 

@AllHokage

If you're worried about cpu temps, just monitor them with a stress test like OCCT.

What's your core voltage set to? On Auto, the value will almost always be too high and be the reason behind your high temps.

Please don't make multiple threads on the same discussion--they have been merged.

Really? Ahh interesting I always believed it had great airflow and seeing as how it's quite large and has decent space for air intakes... or probably not.

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