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hihihi8

Guide: Modding A Watercooled Titan-Style Card

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Welcome to my Step-By-Step guide on how to turn your reference Nvidia Titan-style card into a water cooled beast!

I'd recommend downloading the Individual Step Pics if you actually plan on carrying out this mod, as it makes it so much easier to understand. 

MOD Pics.zip

 

Intro: There are some of us that just love Nvidia's original Reference Titan cooler (or founders edition), and love the iconic GEFORCE GTX LED's that represent enthusiasts as much as the ROG Logo. Here is a guide that will help you put your card on water, but keep that Titan cooler we love! I'd recommend using EVGA cards for this, as they do not void warranty when watercooled. However, keep in mind that once you do this, you have to get another reference cooler if you plan on getting the card warranted (and remember there's a sticker under the windowed shell that needs to be transplanted).

 

Materials Needed:

- Geforce GTX Reference Card (Known Working: GTX780, 980Ti, Titan X (Maxwell))

- EK VGA Supremacy Universal Waterblock (1 per card)

- 3/8in OD, 1/4in ID Tubing (I used Tygon E-3606 #7)

- 3/8in ID Stretch Spring (0.8-1mm wire-girth)

- Bitspower 1/4in Barb Fittings (4 per card)

- Rough Metal File + Finer Metal File

- Dremel Rotary Tool (Or else small crafting Files, which will be excruciatingly slow from personal experience)

- Sand Paper of Grits 400->2000

- 3.5mm Drill Bit (and Power Drill)

- 45° Countersink Bit (Optional)

- Thin headed M3 Screws (Head thickness less than 1mm)

- Small Philips screwdriver (Cooler Disassembly)

- Small Hex screwdriver(s) Multiple sizes needed, I'm not sure which sizes, an arrangement set will surely have the right sizes)

- Zipties

- Custom Copper/Brass Block

- Access to multi-axis CNC-capable workshop (Eg. Frozen-Q)

 

Step 1: Preparing the Cooler Base

Take your card apart until you're left with the base in picture. You will be using the hex drivers and small philips drivers.

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Step 2: Removing Fins

Near the end of the card (power connector side), you'll find a bunch of almost useless fins (They don't actually get any airflow). Using something small and pointy (I used my phillips driver), starting from the PCI-E finger side, pry up at the small latches that hold the fins together. There are two for each fin. You have to get down under the latch of the fin in order to poke the latch of the adjacent fin, causing the outer fin to loosen. After that, just bend and pull. Repeat until you have all the fins off.

 

After all the fins come off, sand the rough adhesive residue until bare metal is visible. If you get any scratches on the cooler, use a black sharpie (or other permanent marker) and color them in.

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Step 3: Deciding Block Orientation

This step does not really require you to do anything to the cooler yet. In this step, you are deciding which block orientation you are using. You will also notice that the base of the VGA waterblock doesn't fit through the hole on the cooler base. So we will have to deal with that in the next step. 

 

The Inlet of the block is the side without the EK sticker. Read on and you'll see how tubing management means that orientation matters.

IF your Block's ports face your output connectors, you will have the inlet on the PCI-E connector side (Inner/Bottom)

IF your block's ports face the GPU Fan, you will have the inlet on the GEFORCE GTX LED side of the card (Outer/Top)

 

Note: If you are doing multiple cards in serial connection, make sure you alternate the VGA block orientation or else you'll be running diagonal tubes! (Which may look good in certain situations, but not in many)

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Step 4: Making The VGA Block Actually Fit

This step will take a while. Firstly, you'll want to take off the silver decorative pieces on the sides, as they have adhesive bonding and you don't want metal stuck in your GPU. You also want to rip off the PVC sticker on the bottom (PCB side) of the cooler, as it also has adhesive bonding. After that, draw a line using a pencil or marker, marking a perimeter about 2mm around the existing heatsink cut-out. You can ignore the small holes, they don't serve much. 

After all that is done, you can start filing away with the rough metal file. This will take a while.

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Step 5: Prepping For The Custom Block

As the picture says, sand Flat, NOT Off. The little end piece of the card has a little small ledge on the inner side on the fan-side curve edge (Not the (originally) fin-side curved edge). that less-than-1-mm ledge is enough to prevent proper

mounting. Sand so that it is level with the area around it. 

BpiWVlK.jpg

 

 

Step 6: Mounting the Custom Block

Next, you'll have to print out a 1:1 picture of the design wireframe in order to accurately position the mounting holes of the custom block. You will need a program capable of opening DWG files, such as AutoCAD, or Fusion360. Remember to use 1 unit : 1mm scale when printing. 

 

Use a sharp and hard object to punch a dent where you need to drill the holes, and then drill them using the 3.5mm bit. After that, you can either Countersink the holes slightly, or use a file and smooth the edges (cheaper method). 

 

Finally, you'll need some thin-headed M3 screws. The head thickness should be less than 1mm to ensure that it doesn't touch/short circuit anything. The ones I used had 0.9mm head thickness and 10mm head diameter. Before you screw in the blocks, tighten the 1/4in barbs on the diagonal threads to the designated tightness of fittings, then screw in the block.

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Step 7: Guiding the Tubing

You don't really have to do steps 7.3 and 7.4 where you have to take off the custom block again, but the modding of the black piece is necessary. Follow along with the images showing where to remove. This step is to ensure your tubing is guided around the fan without hard kinking or touching the fan. Using the dremel will drastically reduce time spent on this step. This step took me about 2 hours the first time I did it (with a crafting file).

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Step 8: Finishing Up

If you've made it this far, congratulations! You're minutes from water cooling your reference cooler!

First thing to do is to install the fan. After that, secure the PCB (remember fan header and LED header), and then secure the waterblock to the die (Use instructions). Once done, you can eyeball the tubing length required. Cut generously, trimming down is better than wasting this expensive tubing (12 dollars a meter whereas regular 1/2in tubing costs 2 dollars a meter here). This step is where the ghetto anti-kink spring comes in handy. The good thing about it is that it fits so well that it even acts as a hose clamp if you're able to push it over the barb lol.

 

Cutting the anti-kink spring will be hard, as hardened steel is stronger than most pliers and wire clippers, and will just dent your clippers. instead, try using a small file to file through the spring's wire against something hard.

 

Zipties are you friend, you can use them to pull tubing into certain shapes. (Don't forget to zip-tie the diagonal 1/4 barbs too) 

 

After attaching the tubing, replace the black shroud over the cooler, pushing the tubing into the filed out cuts made previously so that they don't touch the fan.

 

EDIT: If you want a quiet fan profile, you MUST install small heatsinks to the cooler base where tubing is not in the way, only then will your VRM's be cool enough to not be in the danger zone while in stress test. Due to the VGA block being present, you have significantly less airflow.

 

Finally, Reinstall the windowed shell and secure the IO L-Bracket.

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And You're Done! 

 

All Files (CAD and Step Pictures) can be found in the attachments below. Good Luck!

 

 

Screen Shot 2016-10-01 at 11.59.16 PM.png

Screen Shot 2016-10-02 at 12.00.22 AM.png

 

Custom GPU Block 3D + 2D.dwg.zip

MOD Pics.zip


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

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Posted · Original PosterOP

ugh.. the Imgur embedments don't work...


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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3 minutes ago, hihihi8 said:

ugh.. the Imgur embedments don't work...

Yay you did it! Try getting the BBcode and replacing the broken images


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Posted · Original PosterOP
40 minutes ago, RGProductions said:

Yay you did it! Try getting the BBcode and replacing the broken images

Done :)


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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You make it look so simple. Guess I'll be ordering some parts. Luckily I have some spare coolers and a Titan sitting here.


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

You make it look so simple. Guess I'll be ordering some parts. Luckily I have some spare coolers and a Titan sitting here.

Good Luck! I'd recommend finding a workshop that can process the custom GPU block first, as that was pretty difficult for me. the rest of the stuff was quite easy to find (except the compatible thin-head M3's, which may take some time since they are non-standardized. Also don't forget to glue some little vrm heatsinks to the cooler base, I don't have pictures that cover that section so it's easily missed. Glue the heatsinks where tubing doesn't get in the way and you're good to go! (I use 6.5*6.5*10mm and 20*21*15mm heatsinks for the top and bottom cards (respectively) due to their different block orientations.

 

GL and Have fun! :)

 

PS: incorporating mods such as this will add a ton of resistance to your loop, so you might need to check your pump's capabilities (I missed this in my build)


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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Nice mod!  I really like that you incorporated the custom block for power regulation cooling.  I put an ek gpu block on my 980, but I took the coward's way out... The side of the card lol

IMG_1111(crop).jpg

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The Lady's Rig- G3258@4.4GHz(1.39v) on Hyper 212 / Gigabyte GA-B85M / gtx750 / 8gb PNY xlr8 / 500gb seagate HDD / CS 450M / Asus PB277Q

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 hours ago, 0ld_Chicken said:

Nice mod!  I really like that you incorporated the custom block for power regulation cooling.  I put an ek gpu block on my 980, but I took the coward's way out... The side of the card lol

Is that an EK Thermosphere? I'm curious how you got the inlet outlet so close to the window/bottom of the card, did you use an Offset fitting (like the Off Center Block from Bitspower in the picture)?

 

BP-MBOCB--1024X768-2.jpg


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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nope, just the supremacy VGA.  The ports are offset just enough to skate by the LED.  I should've just picked up some short barbs, then I wouldn't have had to destroy the window in the process. 

 

Spoiler


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The Lady's Rig- G3258@4.4GHz(1.39v) on Hyper 212 / Gigabyte GA-B85M / gtx750 / 8gb PNY xlr8 / 500gb seagate HDD / CS 450M / Asus PB277Q

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, 0ld_Chicken said:

nope, just the supremacy VGA.  The ports are offset just enough to skate by the LED.  I should've just picked up some short barbs, then I wouldn't have had to destroy the window in the process. 

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

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And do you have VRM heatsinks adhered to the cooler base? Since that was one of my concerns with my mod, where the card cooler itself was blazing hot to the touch in Furmark.


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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6 minutes ago, hihihi8 said:

And do you have VRM heatsinks adhered to the cooler base? Since that was one of my concerns with my mod, where the card cooler itself was blazing hot to the touch in Furmark.

I added what I could, but I only had cheap, short, aluminum heatsinks that probably weren't doing much of anything anyways (some are visible in the 3rd pic of my last post on the vram area).

 

I was really worried about this too, especially since Nvidia decided not to include vrm temp monitoring and I saw this which showed 98°c VRM temps for 980 reference 9_9

 

That is when I decided to get a full block since I really didn't want to fry my card from overclocking.  I got the Aquacomputer Kryographics block with active backplate, partially since it cools the vrm better than any full cover GPU block. 


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Posted · Original PosterOP
21 hours ago, 0ld_Chicken said:

I added what I could, but I only had cheap, short, aluminum heatsinks that probably weren't doing much of anything anyways (some are visible in the 3rd pic of my last post on the vram area).

 

I was really worried about this too, especially since Nvidia decided not to include vrm temp monitoring and I saw this which showed 98°c VRM temps for 980 reference 9_9

 

That is when I decided to get a full block since I really didn't want to fry my card from overclocking.  I got the Aquacomputer Kryographics block with active backplate, partially since it cools the vrm better than any full cover GPU block. 

I think if the nvidia vrm reaches 98°C, we won't be in too much danger by doing this as long as we stick just a few heatsinks in there lol. The stock GPU heatsink doesn't touch the VRM's either, and putting a Supremacy VGA there would force air to the two sides, helping slightly, at the cost of acoustics perhaps. Just a thought, I'm no aerodynamics expert in any way haha.

 

Next time I do this, I'll be making two versions of the custom block (One for each vga supremacy orientation), where the copper goes all the way up to the VGA supremacy in a sort of water channel that helps cool VRM's in the process. 


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

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Well my cards having vram on both sides the back plates are on fire. Just like when i was air cooled and the cooler was so hot. Just imagine how the vram is on the back with nothing what so ever. I was gonna go to the extreme and add a water block to the back plate. Hard to passively cool a flat piece of metal. 


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 10/3/2016 at 8:51 PM, Mick Naughty said:

Well my cards having vram on both sides the back plates are on fire. Just like when i was air cooled and the cooler was so hot. Just imagine how the vram is on the back with nothing what so ever. I was gonna go to the extreme and add a water block to the back plate. Hard to passively cool a flat piece of metal. 

Just remembered! Try sticking these on the inside of the card coolers, it will prevent mosfet fires. I'm currently living in China so I have more options and got some that were perfect width/height/length :P But these will work if you plan on trying this mod :)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-Aluminum-Heatsink-20-14-6mm-Electronic-Chip-Cooling-Radiator-Cooler-for-IC-MOSFET-SCR/32679403431.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.lfnp4q&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10069_10084_10083_10017_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10078_10079_10073_10070_421_420_10052_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=3366f795-01e9-4977-b79f-7fdcf73e3b69

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lot-Aluminum-Heatsink-14x14x10mm-Electronic-Chip-Cooling-Radiator-Cooler-for-IC-MOSFET-SCR-Router-Heat/32678760734.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.67.lfnp4q&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10069_10084_10083_10017_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10078_10079_10073_10070_421_420_10052_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=3366f795-01e9-4977-b79f-7fdcf73e3b69

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-lot-15x16x11mm-Good-aluminum-alloy-heat-sink-Cooling-Radiator-Cooler-for-IC-MOSFET-SCR-Router/32753309636.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.60.lfnp4q&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10069_10084_10083_10017_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10078_10079_10073_10070_421_420_10052_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=3366f795-01e9-4977-b79f-7fdcf73e3b69


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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2 hours ago, hihihi8 said:

Just remembered! Try sticking these on the inside of the card coolers, it will prevent mosfet fires. I'm currently living in China so I have more options and got some that were perfect width/height/length :P But these will work if you plan on trying this mod :)

 

Running some on the back of my oe Titans. Don't know if the 14mm will clear but I could just get some 10mm versions. 

image.jpg


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Mick Naughty said:

Running some on the back of my oe Titans. Don't know if the 14mm will clear but I could just get some 10mm versions. 

I was referring to when modding the Titan coolers, but yeah these things really do help despite their size. BTW, hows your Titan cooler mod going? Have you taken on the challenge? Those heatsinks I linked where some recent additions for me too, my modded titan coolers used to run burning to the touch in games, but ever since adding them, I have been able to keep my fan at the lowest 22% all through a stress test and still have the cooler itself almost room temperature =D

 

(They used to run so hot I could almost burn myself on the SLI bridge lol)


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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12 minutes ago, hihihi8 said:

I was referring to when modding the Titan coolers, but yeah these things really do help despite their size. BTW, hows your Titan cooler mod going? Have you taken on the challenge? Those heatsinks I linked where some recent additions for me too, my modded titan coolers used to run burning to the touch in games, but ever since adding them, I have been able to keep my fan at the lowest 22% all through a stress test and still have the cooler itself almost room temperature =D

 

(They used to run so hot I could almost burn myself on the SLI bridge lol)

Yea I plan on putting those inside too. I prefer copper when I can. I'm still getting the parts together. Built another rig to put it in, just need to mod stock cooler. Have some time off coming up so I'm gonna give it a shot. 


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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Wouldn't it have been so much much easier to use something like the $40 Corsair HG10 for 980/Titan which has the mounts for a standard AMD or Intel based cooler built in? Then just add any custom loop CPU block you want to it?

 

Gotta admit yours looks pretty awesome though.


Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Corsair H110i GTX   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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11 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Wouldn't it have been so much much easier to use something like the $40 Corsair HG10 for 980/Titan which has the mounts for a standard AMD or Intel based cooler built in? Then just add any custom loop CPU block you want to it?

 

Gotta admit yours looks pretty awesome though.

That's besides the point. I actually already went that route. The best it could do is 50c. And that was with a new h100i. Kinda poor for me. Then because of the stiff ass lines it broke a mounting screw and shot up to 95c. I prefer the look of a Titan cooler and open loop performance. I can't for 3 h100's in my case. 


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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6 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

That's besides the point. I actually already went that route. The best it could do is 50c. And that was with a new h100i. Kinda poor for me. Then because of the stiff ass lines it broke a mounting screw and shot up to 95c. I prefer the look of a Titan cooler and open loop performance. I can't for 3 h100's in my case. 

I didn't mean using an AIO with it. You can still use a custom loop and your own waterblock on the hg10 bracket with minimal finagling since it already has the Intel/AMD mounting holes

 

Making something yourself has it's own appeal though, I get that.


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CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Corsair H110i GTX   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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mainly because it looks like crap. It's not about making something yourself. It's about the best of both worlds. Why get a corsair bracket and a CPU block when I could just as easy get an ek block abs look way better?


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, pyrojoe34 said:

use something like the $40 Corsair HG10

1 hour ago, Mick Naughty said:

50c. And that was with a new h100i.

wow thats actually worse than I expected from the corsair solution. My loop (with the modded 980ti's) idles around 27*C on both GPU's and 29*C on the 5930K, all on 1 480mm Radiator. The only sound I can hear comes from the strained pump on setting 5. The max load temps I've seen on the GPU's are about 50°C so far... now they sound great compared to the HG10

 

PS Mick Naughty: remember to measure the Titan's cooler before making the custom block, you might have to make some adjustments to the dimensions if they don't match up with the 980Ti's. If they do need editting, you can either tell me the dimensions, or I can convert the DWG into a STEP or IGES/IGS so it's more compatible with other CAD softwares besides AutoCAD


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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3 minutes ago, hihihi8 said:

wow thats actually worse than I expected from the corsair solution. My loop (with the modded 980ti's) idles around 27*C on both GPU's and 29*C on the 5930K, all on 1 480mm Radiator. The only sound I can hear comes from the strained pump on setting 5. The max load temps I've seen on the GPU's are about 50°C so far... now they sound great compared to the HG10

My 980 using the HG10 with a single 120mm AIO is overclocked to 1505Mhz (from 1241/1342 base/boost) and only gets up to ~60C in an extended stress test (during the summer). It idles at 25-30C depending on room temp.


Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Corsair H110i GTX   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Even with single 120 aio's my cards would run decent. Still nothing compared to open loop. Looks a lot cleaner, or at least it could be. 

image.jpg

image.jpg


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080TI SC Black, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1080sc & 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
7 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

Even with single 120 aio's my cards would run decent. Still nothing compared to open loop. Looks a lot cleaner, or at least it could be. 

So far my only jealousy towards AIO's is their maintenance free aspect... Currently my rig's under maintenance due to the radiator being so dirty and impossible to clean properly :(.. It's been slowly yet steadily depositing junk into my filter over the past week, and has been steadily reducing flow. Unfortunately Alphacool Rads are notorious for this

 

Should've bought second hand, that way the junk's already in someone else's loop lol :D 


PC 1: Pinky (Yes that is her name)

I7 5930K — 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 @2400Mhz — MSi X99A Godlike Gaming Motherboard — GTX 980Ti SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 950Pro 512GB PCIe OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 7200RPM Storage HDD — Corsair RM1000 — Thermaltake Core P5

 

PC 2: Red Box/Scarlet Overkill (Dual Xeon)

Xeon E5-2687W x2 — 96GB Kingston DDR3 @1333Mhz — EVGA Classified SR-X Dual CPU — GTX 1070 SLI(2-WAY) — Full Custom Hardline Water Cooling — Samsung 750 EVO 256GB OS SSD — Seagate 2TB 2.5" Storage HDD x3 — Self-Built Case

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