Jump to content

Upgrading PC useing same hard drive?

Bubba200

I plan on upgradeing my computers hardware, and I am replaceing the moutherboard and cpu. So I Heard that if I do that Windows will conflict with new drivers because it is trying to use old drivers and not the ones needed for the new motherboard. And therefore you need a fresh install of Windows on a new hard drive... The thing is though I bought the Windows 8 DVD and then upgraded to window 10 for free when it came out. So my question is I would I get Windows 10 on the new drive without haveing too pay 100 bucks when I already have it downloaded to the pc I built.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, I'm not contributing anything here but I also do want to know an answer to this because I'm in the same situation regarding windows on DVD (windows 7 and having win10 right now).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Withouth fresh install I imagine it would run but with errors, meaning u would have to install mew chipset and drivers for your mobo and cpu. This can cause isssues if u dont properly remove old drivers as there would be conflicting. 

 

So i THINK fresh install will be required. You have full license windows (not OEM) so there wont be any problem applying your windows key to new build once you fresh install. 

 

Tldr, u will be fine with fresh install, no need to contact MS. Your windows 8 key wad automatically updated to windows 10 license and registered with MS (thats my understanding on how their keys work now).

 

Im 75% sure about what I said. To clarify wait for more responses (hopefully conforming my theory).

Connection200mbps / 12mbps 5Ghz wifi

My baby: CPU - i7-4790, MB - Z97-A, RAM - Corsair Veng. LP 16gb, GPU - MSI GTX 1060, PSU - CXM 600, Storage - Evo 840 120gb, MX100 256gb, WD Blue 1TB, Cooler - Hyper Evo 212, Case - Corsair Carbide 200R, Monitor - Benq  XL2430T 144Hz, Mouse - FinalMouse, Keyboard -K70 RGB, OS - Win 10, Audio - DT990 Pro, Phone - iPhone SE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Although I can't totally help you, this is what I did when upgrading my current pc from an amd platform to intel (swapping motherboard and cpu). This is a guide to windows 7, before I obviously upgraded to windows 10, then did a clean install of windows 10 (win 10 key stays in your motherboards bios, idk about 7/8). I would assume you could do something similar with windows 8/10, just make sure to write down your windows and any other application activation keys you have used just encase. 

 

You should boot and be activated regardless, there is just concern with removing old drivers first before you do the swap.

CPU: Intel I7 4790k @ 4.6Ghz 1.255v | GPU: Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 980 Ti | Display: Acer XB270HU bprz | RAM: 16GB (4x4GB) Gskill Ripjaws X 1866MHz | CPU Cooler: H80i | Motherboard: MSI Z97 Gaming 5 | SSD: Mushkin 120GB + Sandisk 480GB | HDD: WD Blue 1TB | Case: Enthoo Pro |PSU: Seaconic M12II EVO 850w | OS: Windows 10 64-Bit | Mouse: Logitech RGB G502 | Keyboard: Thermaltake Poseidon Z (Brown Switches) | 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't really need a fresh install. Just uninstall your chipset, graphics, etc drivers. Make sure you are using the same type of connection for your drive (e.g SATA). After booting you can then install the drivers for your new hardware. It might go through an automatic startup repair, let that go through. Also since you are changing your motherboard Windows will probably need to be re-activated, depending on the type (OEM, Retail, etc). Make sure to take a backup before everything, in case something goes wrong.

 

PS: @boboman342 Nice guide, didn't know anything about "sysprep". Not sure if that's absolutely needed as I've moved to different hardware without it in the past, but good to know Windows has such functionality.

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×