[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing

[Revan654]

Ok, UV it is.

 

To give you an idea of the UV effect.

 

 

The Coolant I have is number five.

[Bananasplit_00]

30 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

Ok, UV it is.

 

To give you an idea of the UV effect.

 

 

 

The Coolant I have is number five.

yah that looks sweet

[Revan654]

 

The cut made for Drain, I may have to replace the case feet due to the length valve size.

 

 

Also made cuts at the top for one tube run & manual Exhaust valve (Makes Bleeding the system easier)

 

 

Also replacing the default screws for the case with Aluminum ones, The Steel ones Case-Labs gives you show tear & tear way to easily. They can also become stripped easily too if your not to careful.

 

I can't find any that are similar to the harddrive screws or the mounting screws.

[Trik'Stari]

14 hours ago, Revan654 said:

Ok, UV it is.

 

To give you an idea of the UV effect.

 

 

The Coolant I have is number five.

You didn't go with Pastel coolant?

 

I salute you. Far too many people go to a lot of effort to end up with tubing that looks painted solid.

[Revan654]

9 hours ago, Trik'Stari said:

You didn't go with Pastel coolant?

 

I salute you. Far too many people go to a lot of effort to end up with tubing that looks painted solid.

 

 

Nope, I had pastel coolant before, I just care for how it looked. I want the coolant to look like water not toothpaste.

 

Check my other Build for that Coolant.

[Revan654]

 

EK's horrible, Horrible soldering job on the LED. They kept disconnecting from the soldering point. Which EK just created allot more work for me.

 

 

And the second Set

 

 

SO I decided just to create my own batch of LED's for the MonoBlock

 

 

Don't break the PCB Board. Well I I cut the board so I would fit in the slots (Yes it does works If you know what your doing). Do not attempt this unless you know how to soldering to PCB board at are good at tight spaces. you can destroy a 20 dollar LED stick in seconds.

 

 

Still needs to be soldered, That type of solder will be the easy part. Compared to soldering the four wires to the PCB board. I think my soldering turned out pretty good, Since this is all new to me. This was my very first try at soldering to a circuit board.

 

 

The difference between EK's LED & Ones I'm using

 

----

 

 

The UV LED's that will be used to light up my Res. They still need to be cut (You get the idea of what I'm going to be using).

[Bananasplit_00]

1 hour ago, Revan654 said:

 

 

EK's horrible, Horrible soldering job on the LED. They kept disconnecting from the soldering point. Which EK just created allot more work for me.

 

 

 

And the second Set

 

 

 

SO I decided just to create my own batch of LED's for the MonoBlock

 

 

 

Don't break the PCB Board. Well I I cut the board so I would fit in the slots (Yes it does works If you know what your doing). Do not attempt this unless you know how to soldering to PCB board at are good at tight spaces. you can destroy a 20 dollar LED stick in seconds.

 

 

 

Still needs to be soldered, That type of solder will be the easy part. Compared to soldering the four wires to the PCB board. I think my soldering turned out pretty good, Since this is all new to me. This was my very first try at soldering to a circuit board.

 

 

 

The difference between EK's LED & Ones I'm using

 

----

 

 

The UV LED's that will be used to light up my Res. They still need to be cut (You get the idea of what I'm going to be using).

nice soldering, turned out better then i manage most of the time(but i tend to be soldering to GPUs and shit so my 30W iron is a bit under powered), nice and clean

[Revan654]

The LED's have been fully installed.

 

a quick look at the new LED's: https://www.instagram.com/p/BYB2DZGAhi3/?taken-by=revan657

[Revan654]

a Small Mod for my HeatKiller Tube:

 

 

UV Lighting inside the lighting Slot using rigid LED Board.

[failwheeldrive]

On 8/18/2017 at 0:47 PM, Revan654 said:

 

 

Will add that after 24 Hours allot of the dust & dangerous materials becomes moot.

Really?  Wasn't aware of that.  What happens after that?

 

And I didn't mean to imply you weren't following safety precautions lol.  Was just just trying to share knowledge since I've seen a couple people using a dremel to cut glass without keeping it wet.

[Revan654]

3 minutes ago, failwheeldrive said:

Really?  Wasn't aware of that.  What happens after that?

 

And I didn't mean to imply you weren't following safety precautions lol.  Was just just trying to share knowledge since I've seen a couple people using a dremel to cut glass without keeping it wet.

 

Basing EPA + 3M who makes the filter. the dust has no effect on the lungs after 24 hours if nhaled after the 24 hour period. It should be kept wet since glass cuts easier & can be shaped better as well.

 

People who cut it dry with Dremel, It's ok but it's going kick out allot of dust specially if you use an older model of Dremel.

[failwheeldrive]

2 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

Basing EPA + 3M who makes the filter. the dust has no effect on the lungs after 24 hours if nhaled after the 24 hour period. It should be kept wet since glass cuts easier & can be shaped better as well.

 

People who cut it dry with Dremel, It's ok but it's going kick out allot of dust specially if you use an older model of Dremel.

Interesting, I haven't read anything that said the dust isn't harmful after a certain period of time.  MSDS safety sheets covering glass dust just say to use water spray with a drainage system to clean up any dust that spills or is accidentally spread to prevent it from becoming airborne.  And yeah, cutting dry with a dremel kicks a ton of dust into the air that'll end up coating everything in the vicinity.  

[Revan654]

Had a bit of bad Luck over the last few days. Most of been dealt with.

 

First:

 

 

Wiring for LED's came out of on another led strip I had. I really wish Companies would stop using 30 AWG, that wire it just to thin & can easily be remove with almost no force what so ever.

 

Second:

 

 

My Soldering iron / Hot Knife / Heating device for Sleeving. Thankfully Amazon was great & replaced it for me already.

 

Lastly (Which is the biggest, Which EK will not replace even though I think there at fault).

 

 

The entire monoBlock came apart. EK was no help & blamed me for taking the entire block apart even though there is no way to access that screw by normal means.

 

-----

 

Now onto some better news:

 

UV effect is not creating a glow on all the coolant. (Not without allot of UV lighting shinning on one tube section. I'm thinking just using UV on the res & use Blue (aka RGB) on everything else.

 

UV just doesn't carry the way I wanted it to.

 

vs

 

---

 

 

As you can see light & UV does not travel.

 

 

[Bananasplit_00]

Quick question, all the cables are tin plated copper right? Just had one hell of an adventure soldering iron so I thought I'd ask

[Revan654]

9 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Quick question, all the cables are tin plated copper right? Just had one hell of an adventure soldering iron so I thought I'd ask

 

Yes, It's nearly impossible to find bare copper wire, everything is tinned, so no need to tin the wire if you buy new wire. It doesn't really matter in a PC environment. Since 99% of the strands are covered by PVC & remaining is on the terminal which only extra bit would be exposed. the one that makes contact is covered.

 

Oxidation only becomes an issue in very high temperature environments (I'm talking beyond 500F) or if you live in a swamp.

[Bananasplit_00]

45 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

 

Yes, It's nearly impossible to find bare copper wire, everything is tinned, so no need to tin the wire if you buy new wire. It doesn't really matter in a PC environment. Since 99% of the strands are covered by PVC & remaining is on the terminal which only extra bit would be exposed. the one that makes contact is covered.

 

Oxidation only becomes an issue in very high temperature environments (I'm talking beyond 500F) or if you live in a swamp.

Yah just wondering, all the soldering looks really clean. Good job with that. Mainly asked because of the absolute hell I had with my LEDs today. They are cheap China things so they are using iron wires... They look really good though, bit on the purple side but I like them. 

[Revan654]

29 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Yah just wondering, all the soldering looks really clean. Good job with that. Mainly asked because of the absolute hell I had with my LEDs today. They are cheap China things so they are using iron wires... They look really good though, bit on the purple side but I like them. 

 

It's one reason why I favor DarkSide LED's if you can use rigid boards. They only use 24 AWG which is thick enough to hold.

 

For flexible Hitlight on Amazon is the best if I recall correctly. I do need some flexable LED's just not sure what to buy.

[Revan654]

20 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Yah just wondering, all the soldering looks really clean. Good job with that. Mainly asked because of the absolute hell I had with my LEDs today. They are cheap China things so they are using iron wires... They look really good though, bit on the purple side but I like them. 

 

Don't buy any China made LED's. Hitlights & SuperBright are usually best if you want flex LED's(Amazon Sells Both). My original LED's came from a place called Modguru about five years ago. There very good quality (Even though they are Chinese made). Hitlights & Superbright are very high quality & made in the US. You can also make your own LED's if you got the time.

 

on a Side note, Some old wiring from Ice-Modz (Shame they closed). Which is Bare Copper wiring. You can tin these wires if you want to. Bare Copper wire is easier to solder, it's why some people favor them over pre-tin wiring.

 

 

I personally favor AlphaWire Eco series. Since it's not PVC, the wires will not melt together. Second they carry higher voltage & electricity through the wire. The lower gauges are a bit expensive(16 AWG & below). 22 AWG to 28 AWG are reasonable priced. They don't make anything above 30.

 

Doing tiny soldering points is very difficult to do. Just don't wrap the wires(Which I don't like to at lass but required for more then three wires), Push them into one another & solder. You will require the helping hand tool for this method.

 

 

Always use high quality soldering wire.

 

 

--------

 

On a Side note, I hate, hate doing Sata & Molex push down cables. You just can't doing Sleeving properly (It just kind just sits there since it's possible to get the sleeving inside the connector.

[Bananasplit_00]

29 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

 

Don't buy any China made LED's. Hitlights & SuperBright are usually best if you want flex LED's(Amazon Sells Both). My original LED's came from a place called Modguru about five years ago. There very good quality (Even though they are Chinese made). Hitlights & Superbright are very high quality & made in the US. You can also make your own LED's if you got the time.

 

on a Side note, Some old wiring from Ice-Modz (Shame they closed). Which is Bare Copper wiring. You can tin these wires if you want to. Bare Copper wire is easier to solder, it's why some people favor them over pre-tin wiring.

 

 

 

I personally favor AlphaWire Eco series. Since it's not PVC, the wires will not melt together. Second they carry higher voltage & electricity through the wire. The lower gauges are a bit expensive(16 AWG & below). 22 AWG to 28 AWG are reasonable priced. They don't make anything above 30.

 

Doing tiny soldering points is very difficult to do. Just don't wrap the wires(Which I don't like to at lass but required for more then three wires), Push them into one another & solder. You will require the helping hand tool for this method.

 

 

 

Always use high quality soldering wire.

 

 

--------

 

On a Side note, I hate, hate doing Sata & Molex push down cables. You just can't doing Sleeving properly (It just kind just sits there since it's possible to get the sleeving inside the connector.

thanks for the tips but im not THAT inexperienced with soldering  i have done loads of bare copper/tinned copper. just never had to solder iron wires  il take a look at the LEDs you suggested but im going to say even before looking at them that i could buy china LEDs enough to fill my case for the price of one strip lol

[Revan654]

2 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

thanks for the tips but im not THAT inexperienced with soldering  i have done loads of bare copper/tinned copper. just never had to solder iron wires  il take a look at the LEDs you suggested but im going to say even before looking at them that i could buy china LEDs enough to fill my case for the price of one strip lol

 

Take a look at AquaComputer, you can buy about 100cm for about 8 dollars. It also 5050 LED. That is another thing make sure it's 5050 or above. 3528 is much smaller LED, If LED is close enough to one another 3528 can give off allot of light (Only use that type is very tight spaces). Chinese 3528 barely gives off enough light.

 

UV is whole other story. Allot of the so called UV is just purple which is not UV. You need to make sure it's UV with blacklight enabled.

[Bananasplit_00]

Just now, Revan654 said:

 

Take a look at AquaComputer, you can buy about 100cm for about 8 dollars. It also 5050 LED. That is another thing make sure it's 5050 or above. 3528 is much smaller LED, If LED is close enough to one another 3528 can give off allot of light (Only use that type is very tight spaces). Chinese 3528 barely gives off enough light.

 

UV is whole other story. Allot of the so called UV is just purple which is not UV. You need to make sure it's UV with blacklight enabled.

well whatever ones i have light up my case quite nice but il take a look, but with $8 i could buy 9 of these 30cm strips  not too bad if tis 100cm if you can cut and stuff though. might add some more/replace this lighting but i doubt il touch the bottom strip because it gives the window a really cool light up effect that i like, might replace the top strip and add a side one though. 

[Revan654]

4 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

well whatever ones i have light up my case quite nice but il take a look, but with $8 i could buy 9 of these 30cm strips  not too bad if tis 100cm if you can cut and stuff though. might add some more/replace this lighting but i doubt il touch the bottom strip because it gives the window a really cool light up effect that i like, might replace the top strip and add a side one though. 

 

 

You could & you also increase your chance of those LED's setting on fire too.

[Revan654]

 

Testing different methods for Soldering multiple wires together(Haven't been soldered yet). This way I don't have to twist a bunch of wires at one cut & still allows me to use only one heatshrink on the sleeving.

 

 

Nothing really special here, just the fittings used to connect the pass-through to pumps.

 

 

Just a idea I'm playing around with on how to connect the pumps to the first radiator. Not 100% sold on the idea. However so far it's the only way I have come up with to connect the two due to the height & length between the two.

[Bananasplit_00]

1 minute ago, Revan654 said:

 

 

Testing different methods for Soldering multiple wires together(Haven't been soldered yet). This way I don't have to twist a bunch of wires at one cut & still allows me to use only one heatshrink on the sleeving.

 

 

Nothing really special here, just the fittings used to connect the pass-through to pumps.

 

 

 

 

Just a idea I'm playing around with on how to connect the pumps to the first radiator. Not 100% sold on the idea. However so far it's the only way I have come up with to connect the two due to the height & length between the two.

i think this picture alone has more fittngs in it then i have in my entire loop...

[Revan654]

11 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

i think this picture alone has more fittngs in it then i have in my entire loop...

It' only five fittings. Getting this screwed in was a chore, since one fitting didn't want to remain straight & the tight space didn't help. That should be the hardest part in the loop. the rest is in open space which will be easier.