Jump to content

Mechanical Keyboard Club!

Dave :)
By Dave :)
in Peripherals
 Share
Posted
3 hours ago, r0otctrl said:

 

Would you say that DSA surface areas are smaller than, say, Cherry surface areas?
 

I think it's smaller. I don't use Cherry or other cylindrical top caps thought so I can't say for sure.

 

3 hours ago, r0otctrl said:

ortho-linear set you have is beautiful. What's the name of that and where'd you get it? Does it come in non-ortho-linear?

DSA Honeywell? https://www.primekb.com/products/dsa-honeywell-for-prime_l-40-45

Mechanical Keyboard Switch Lubing Guide

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
4 minutes ago, geo3 said:

I think it's smaller. I don't use Cherry or other cylindrical top caps thought so I can't say for sure.

 

DSA Honeywell? https://www.primekb.com/products/dsa-honeywell-for-prime_l-40-45

 

4 minutes ago, geo3 said:

I think it's smaller. I don't use Cherry or other cylindrical top caps thought so I can't say for sure.

 

DSA Honeywell? https://www.primekb.com/products/dsa-honeywell-for-prime_l-40-45

 


this one is DSA honeywell?
 

board.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

I am hoping to be a member of this club by the end of the week...just researching keyboards...gettin sick of my membrane Logitech that's failing bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
4 hours ago, geo3 said:

Yes

 

looks so diff in real pics. looks way better than in the renders.

you got me bugged out about DSA now tho. are the surface areas really that small? its quite pricey.

such a strange base kit too. no backslash in the base kit? i wont even be able to fit that on my board unless i have mislabelled keys :.(

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
45 minutes ago, nbrowser said:

I am hoping to be a member of this club by the end of the week...just researching keyboards...gettin sick of my membrane Logitech that's failing bad.

nightfox and z70, two of the nicest looking keyboards ive come across in my time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
10 hours ago, r0otctrl said:

 

the M65A is such a beautiful looking keyboard, although, like Geo said, doesn't the front edge of the case ever get in the way? How heavy is it? You got a weight in it?

Personally, the front bezel doesn't really get into the way, I haven't weighed it yet but it's pretty heavy. I have a Brass weight on the underside of the keyboard. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
Just now, b emoji said:

Personally, the front bezel doesn't really get into the way, I haven't weighed it yet but it's pretty heavy. I have a Brass weight on the underside of the keyboard. 

 

Just now, b emoji said:

Personally, the front bezel doesn't really get into the way, I haven't weighed it yet but it's pretty heavy. I have a Brass weight on the underside of the keyboard. 

 

super expensive right? how much for everything (the weight, does it come with keycaps?, etc) when all was said and done?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
2 hours ago, r0otctrl said:

 

looks so diff in real pics. looks way better than in the renders.

you got me bugged out about DSA now tho. are the surface areas really that small? its quite pricey.

such a strange base kit too. no backslash in the base kit? i wont even be able to fit that on my board unless i have mislabelled keys :.(

For me it was too small, which is why I moved off of DSA. But with all things custom it's highly personal.  Others feel differently about them, so may you.

 

As for Honeywell, the base set is intended for 40% and Ortho boards. You will likely need the compatibility set as well to fill up a Nightfox. But double check each individual key is included before committing.  Also the Honeywell set is double shot ABS, so make sure you are ok with that as well.

Mechanical Keyboard Switch Lubing Guide

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
Just now, geo3 said:

For me it was too small, which is why I moved off of DSA. But with all things custom it's highly personal.  Others feel differently about them, so may you.

 

As for Honeywell, the base set is intended for 40% and Ortho boards. You will likely need the compatibility set as well to fill up a Nightfox. But double check each individual key is included before committing.

 

even with the compatibility set, id have to have mislabelled keys unfortunately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
1 minute ago, r0otctrl said:

 

even with the compatibility set, id have to have mislabelled keys unfortunately.

The Nightfox is programmable. So you could move keys to match the caps if you were so inclined.

Mechanical Keyboard Switch Lubing Guide

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
Just now, geo3 said:

The Nightfox is programmable. So you could move keys to match the caps if you were so inclined.

 

yeah i know, but i dont really wanna compromise functionality strictly for aesthetics. plus id still be missing the backslash key and the `~ key

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

Hi everyone!!! New guy here from Thailand. (Plus I'm ADHD so I might do something weird?)

Today I just got my hands on Kailh Box Jade switches(ordered from KBDfans).

I just playing with it compare to Outemu blue, Jade feels a lot better. More tactile and very satisfying click. All that's left is the Geek GK61 hot swappable that I order from Banggood to arrive and buying Thai keycaps.

 

Note the picture with vernier caliper, I measured the stem to make sure that these switches are retooled one.

IMG_20190528_130614[1].jpg

IMG_20190528_125745[1].jpg

IMG_20190528_130847[1].jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
2 hours ago, r0otctrl said:

super expensive right? how much for everything (the weight, does it come with keycaps?, etc) when all was said and done?

The case, plate, pcb, and weight costs around 360-400 USD. Keycaps are not included, I got the GMK Solarized Dark Base kit which costs 120-195$, Switches I got for ~90$ for 70. It doesn't come assembled, you have to solder in your own switches and add your own stabs. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
1 hour ago, b emoji said:

The case, plate, pcb, and weight costs around 360-400 USD. Keycaps are not included, I got the GMK Solarized Dark Base kit which costs 120-195$, Switches I got for ~90$ for 70. It doesn't come assembled, you have to solder in your own switches and add your own stabs. 

yeah i know. i had to build my nightfox too. expensive hobby. my kit was still cheaper than yours, but then i dropped $140 on a great soldering station, another $45 for some good solder, and then a braided cable. altogether i spent around $550-600 to get a working keyboard kik

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
5 hours ago, r0otctrl said:

yeah i know. i had to build my nightfox too. expensive hobby. my kit was still cheaper than yours, but then i dropped $140 on a great soldering station, another $45 for some good solder, and then a braided cable. altogether i spent around $550-600 to get a working keyboard kik

I got a an entire soldering kit on Amazon for $30 that I made every keyboard with. 

Mechanical Keyboard Switch Lubing Guide

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
3 hours ago, geo3 said:

I got a an entire soldering kit on Amazon for $30 that I made every keyboard with. 

yeah i know i couldve bought a cheap one, but i splurged because this thing will likely last me for life. i got the Hakko FX888D, which has been a joy to use. super user friendly. heats up to 400* celsius in just a few seconds. ive had to use it for other soldering and desoldering jobs too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

why are mx blues not for gaming ? I think they work pretty well

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
7 minutes ago, Dreamer758 said:

why are mx blues not for gaming ? I think they work pretty well

just noisy

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
16 minutes ago, Dreamer758 said:

why are mx blues not for gaming ? I think they work pretty well

Hysteresis. It can be an issue in competitive games when you need to press the same key repeatedly. 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
8 hours ago, seon123 said:

Hysteresis

To elaborate, this means that the press and return stroke are non-symmetrical. On blue switches in particular you have to come up higher to release the key press than you had to go in order to activate the key in the first place.  If you need to spam a key fast and accurately this becomes an issue.  

 

If you want a clicky gaming switch, look at a click bar switches (Kailh box switches) rather than click jacket (MX Blues).

Mechanical Keyboard Switch Lubing Guide

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
10 hours ago, seon123 said:

Hysteresis. It can be an issue in competitive games when you need to press the same key repeatedly. 

 

1 hour ago, geo3 said:

To elaborate, this means that the press and return stroke are non-symmetrical. On blue switches in particular you have to come up higher to release the key press than you had to go in order to activate the key in the first place.  If you need to spam a key fast and accurately this becomes an issue.  

 

If you want a clicky gaming switch, look at a click bar switches (Kailh box switches) rather than click jacket (MX Blues).

here are some force curves to demonstrate: 
b56d8dfad760913bdd3cf3c5a4e78e89dfaf394d.png.c758371da994f61da3c8ba16d3e4450a.png
mx blue vs a linear switch without hysteresis, notice how the press and reset are almost the same point, while the mx blue's reset is much further up on the upstroke.
266.png.e1ffe4e7f4c42c46883928a7dfd2d55a.png
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
On 5/25/2019 at 1:42 PM, geo3 said:

Here's one from KBDfans

 1_2bdabedd-7c62-402f-b477-c067528e5ada_1

What are these kaycaps? The lettering looks nice and unique..

My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
4 minutes ago, _Hustler_One_ said:

What are these kaycaps? The lettering looks nice and unique..

Reverse image search -> find KBD67, click the thing that says "Click this link to buy the keycap in the picture" -> find this

https://kbdfans.cn/collections/new-arrival/products/coming-soon-xda-dye-sub-keycaps

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing Peripherals

×