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Dave :)

Mechanical Keyboard Club!

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49 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

i mainly like them for the sound, the clicky alps, buckling springs, clicky space invaders and so on are so much better sounding then MX blue. i like my browns i have now in my main keyboard but the tactile bump is so small on browns, its barely noticable sometimes. its HUGE in the way of feedback compared to reds but i use a MX blue keyboard at school and MX browns at home and compared to blues they feel liniar. id love for something like a brown with more click but not with the shitty trigger/liftof thing thats on blue switches and that are a louder aswell, i dont like the sound of blue much after hearing other switches it just sounds weak and tinny. also btw Hall efect switches are comming back, some chinese company are now selling pretty awesome Hall effect keyboards on Ali Express :D best smoth switches available from what i know, un beatable durability and ultimate smooth

I spent $1500+ on building my pc and all I do is browse LTT and listen to music


Ryzen 5 3600 stock | 2x16GB C13 3200MHz (AFR) | Radeon VII | ASUS Prime X570-P | 6TB WD Gold (128MB Cache, 2017)

Samsung 850 EVO 240 GB 

138 is a good number.

 

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12 hours ago, themctipers said:

I spent $1500+ on building my pc and all I do is browse LTT and listen to music

basically the same, but you went to another level with it lol. and i also do semi pro Paladins i guess


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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I'am a mostly FPS gamer and I find myself hiting the keyboard a lot when playing as my workspace is pretty small, I have decide to purchese a 10 keyless keyboard and was wondering if anyone had any good suggestions. Thanks.

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6 minutes ago, ApexFT said:

I'am a mostly FPS gamer and I find myself hiting the keyboard a lot when playing as my workspace is pretty small, I have decide to purchese a 10 keyless keyboard and was wondering if anyone had any good suggestions. Thanks.

K65

Pok3r

Masterkeys S

Quickfire

Magicforce 68

Anne Pro

Ducke one TKL

MK Disco

WASD Code 61/87

Leopold FC750R

 

orr, DIY a 60% keeb (More expensive though)

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Aytex' suggestions are good, but none of them are actually in the TKL form factor, more like 65% and 60%. Going from his suggestions, if you need arrow keys, I'd recommend going with a 65% like the Magicforce 68 (which is a very good keyboard in general) or building a 60% yourself to include arrows.

 

If you do indeed want a real TKL board to get the full nav-cluster and arrows, you should take a look at the Masterkeys Pro S or see whether you can get a QuickFire Rapid (now discontinued). The cool thing about the QFR is that you can exchange the controller to make it programmable. Either of those boards are well built. They are a little bigger than Aytex' suggestions, however. There are of course other TKLs, but if you want a good board for the price, Cooler Master is a very solid choice. If you're on a budget, I'd go for the Lioncast LK20.

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Still rocking my Filco Majestouch 2 Ninja with Cherry MX Browns. It's been three(?) years. Still an absolutely killer keyboard, but I'm interested in using a keyboard with Cherry MX Reds some day soon.


What do they know of England, who only England know?

"Well that's what I always said I wanted to be remembered for, for being honest. Nothing else is worth a damn"
 

 

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I just bought a Varmillo VA12M switch tester but it didn't come with caps.  Is it okay to use cheap caps for testing to see which switch I like?  I found a clear set of 9 for $7.  I figured for the extra 3 needed I could swap the caps around.

Thanks in advance

 

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honestly im getting a bit anoyed at how scratchy my K70 with brows is. anyone know any nice and cheap keyboards with alps or something? 100% and windows key needed and i can probably not use ebay because my paypal got nuked -_- 


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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finally joined the mechanical keyboard master race today. finally got my k95 rgb with brown switches. i didnt know how heavy and terrible the membrane  switches on my old dell keyboard felt until i used it after using the brown switches for only a few minutes.


Current Rig:   CPU: AMD 1950X @4Ghz. Cooler: Enermax Liqtech TR4 360. Motherboard:Asus Zenith Extreme. RAM: 8GB Crucial DDR4 3666. GPU: Reference GTX 970  SSD: 250GB Samsung 970 EVO.  HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 2TB. Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro. PSU: Corsair RM1000X. OS: Windows 10 Pro UEFI mode  (installed on SSD)

Peripherals:  Display: Acer XB272 1080p 240Hz G Sync Keyboard: Corsair K95 RGB Brown Mouse: Logitech G502 RGB Headhet: Roccat XTD 5.1 analogue

Daily Devices:Sony Xperia XZ1 Compact and 128GB iPad Pro

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On 4/10/2017 at 9:04 AM, jefferz said:

I just bought a Varmillo VA12M switch tester but it didn't come with caps.  Is it okay to use cheap caps for testing to see which switch I like?  I found a clear set of 9 for $7.  I figured for the extra 3 needed I could swap the caps around.

Thanks in advance

 

Ideally, you should use caps similar to the ones you'll be using on your planned keyboard. Thicker keycaps will weigh more and thus the switch will feel lighter. But if you just want a general idea, cheap caps are absolutely fine.

 

On 4/10/2017 at 10:42 AM, Bananasplit_00 said:

honestly im getting a bit anoyed at how scratchy my K70 with brows is. anyone know any nice and cheap keyboards with alps or something? 100% and windows key needed and i can probably not use ebay because my paypal got nuked -_- 

Does it have Cherry MX Browns or clones of some sort? You might want to look into either getting a board with Gateron Browns, which are much less scratchy than Cherries, or opening your switches to lube the stems. There are no currently available cheap boards with alps switches. The only manufacturer who still makes stock boards with Alps mount switches is Matias, and while their mechanical boards are affordable, they certainly aren't cheap to buy.

Your only other options to get Alps are vintage boards like the AEK2 or getting a kit to build an alps keyboard yourself. But really, if it's just the scratchiness, try out lubing.

 

15 hours ago, asim1999 said:

finally joined the mechanical keyboard master race today. finally got my k95 rgb with brown switches. i didnt know how heavy and terrible the membrane  switches on my old dell keyboard felt until i used it after using the brown switches for only a few minutes.

Yeah I feel like Dell had particularly bad rubber domes. The ones on my Sidewinder X6 are still pretty good, even after using Gateron Browns for a long time.

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17 minutes ago, iFreilicht said:

 

Does it have Cherry MX Browns or clones of some sort? You might want to look into either getting a board with Gateron Browns, which are much less scratchy than Cherries, or opening your switches to lube the stems. There are no currently available cheap boards with alps switches. The only manufacturer who still makes stock boards with Alps mount switches is Matias, and while their mechanical boards are affordable, they certainly aren't cheap to buy.

Your only other options to get Alps are vintage boards like the AEK2 or getting a kit to build an alps keyboard yourself. But really, if it's just the scratchiness, try out lubing.

 

K70s come with genuine Cherry switches, they are also PCB mounted so i dont even know if i can lube them properly, Matias boards are pretty cool tbh but too expensive for me, id be fine with an old board to rob the switches from or just to use as long as it dosent look like garbage and still has windows keys(which most old boards dont have -_-). for now i think il just wait untill hall efect switches come in a clicky variant(yes, there is a chinese company that have started makeing hall efekt switches again :D) and just get a board with those. Browns are fine for now, i removed the O-rings i have used and its quite a bit nicer to type on.


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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2 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

K70s come with genuine Cherry switches, they are also PCB mounted so i dont even know if i can lube them properly,

I am fairly certain that those are plate mounted, that board has a low profile case. If they were PCB mount, you could easily open the switch top, but looking at the pictures now, that doesn't seems to be possible without desoldering.

 

2 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Matias boards are pretty cool tbh but too expensive for me, id be fine with an old board to rob the switches from or just to use as long as it dosent look like garbage and still has windows keys(which most old boards dont have -_-).

If you look long enough, that might be your best bet then. Yeah especially Apple Keyboards are known for their lack of a Windows key :D

 

2 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

for now i think il just wait untill hall efect switches come in a clicky variant(yes, there is a chinese company that have started makeing hall efekt switches again :D) and just get a board with those.

Well the linear XMIT boards were all at least 100$ as well and are said to be 150$ in the future, so you're not really saving money with that. They also had a few quality issues but that was sorted out quite well from what I've heard.

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i love my G810 orion, and i get a little ego-rub when i see that Linus nearly always uses a G810 in his B-roll :D


Home PC:

CPU: i7 4790s ~ Motherboard: Asus B85M-E ~ RAM: 32GB Ballistix Sport DDR3 1666 ~ GPU: Sapphire R9 390 Nitro ~ Case: Corsair Carbide Spec-03 ~ Storage: Kingston Predator 240GB   PCIE M.2 Boot, 2TB HDD, 3x 480GB SATA SSD's in RAID 0 ~ PSU:    Corsair CX600
Display(s): Asus PB287Q , Generic Samsung 1080p 22" ~ Cooling: Arctic T3 Air Cooler, All case fans replaced with Noctua NF-B9 Redux's ~ Keyboard: Logitech G810 Orion ~ Mouse: Cheap Microsoft Wired (i like it) ~ Sound: Radial Pro USB DAC into 250w Powered Speakers ~ Operating System: Windows 10 Enterprise x64
 

Work PC:

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1275 v3 ~ Motherboard: Asrock E3C226D2I ~ RAM: 16GB DDR3 ~ GPU: GTX 460 ~ Case: Silverstone SG05 ~ Storage: 512GB SATA SSD ~ Displays: 3x1080p 24" mix and matched Dell monitors plus a 10" 1080p lilliput monitor above ~ Operating System: Windows 10 Enterprise x64

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44 minutes ago, iFreilicht said:

I am fairly certain that those are plate mounted, that board has a low profile case. If they were PCB mount, you could easily open the switch top, but looking at the pictures now, that doesn't seems to be possible without desoldering.

 

If you look long enough, that might be your best bet then. Yeah especially Apple Keyboards are known for their lack of a Windows key :D

 

Well the linear XMIT boards were all at least 100$ as well and are said to be 150$ in the future, so you're not really saving money with that. They also had a few quality issues but that was sorted out quite well from what I've heard.

well i have removed one of the switches in my keyboard lol, esc broke so i stole pause/break :P 


I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally)...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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NONE of the corsair boards are PCB mounted.  And there is only ONE Consumer level board in existence that is mass marketed (meaning: not limited or made to order) that is PCB mounted.  There are very big disadvantages to PCB mount boards.  The only advantage is removing switch tops, and when hot swappable keyboards become more mainstream, there will soon be no advantage.  Once Ducky makes a hotswappable keyboard (I asked them about it on Skype, but they said there are issues with reliability of the sockets), it's game over.

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I think i got chatter key on my "R" Key, how on earth am i suppose to resolve this successfully without sending it to corsair support??

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On 4/13/2017 at 10:53 PM, Falkentyne said:

NONE of the corsair boards are PCB mounted.  And there is only ONE Consumer level board in existence that is mass marketed (meaning: not limited or made to order) that is PCB mounted.  There are very big disadvantages to PCB mount boards.  The only advantage is removing switch tops, and when hot swappable keyboards become more mainstream, there will soon be no advantage.  Once Ducky makes a hotswappable keyboard (I asked them about it on Skype, but they said there are issues with reliability of the sockets), it's game over.

Even the advantage of switch top removal is only there in comparison to boards with plates that don't allow switch opening. Many DIY kits and universal plates (with support for MX and Alps) already allow switch removal, though that is not the case for any mass produced keyboard at this point, I believe.

But, I wouldn't say there are a lot of disadvantages to PCB mount either. Some people prefer the feel of not having a stiff plate, though I believe that is a minority, and PCB mount saves on material and thus cost. But you're absolutely correct that most PCB mount keyboards are mostly DIY boards, not mass marketed consumer boards.

 

On 4/16/2017 at 0:53 AM, Ramen Man said:

I think i got chatter key on my "R" Key, how on earth am i suppose to resolve this successfully without sending it to corsair support??

If you can solder or have a friend who can, opening up the board and replacing that switch would be enough. You wouldn't even necessarily have to buy a new one, you could just swap it with one where you don't care about chatter, like PrintScreen or ScrollLock.

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Today , I found out about whether do i like RGB's or don't. used to or kinda still dont like em really.

The truth is , the type of RGB that i like is kinda minimalist. The main gripes that i had with RGB's  is that when the lights shine through or between the gaps of the caps. IMO , too much light and unnecessarily bright. the thing that would be IMO is that it just lit up the letters and there no light between the caps. that IMO is cool in my book. minimalist yet not too flashy. 

 

SO the main question is , where can i find such a mechanical keyboard............? ( plz help ? ) 

 


(⌐■_■) 

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Whaddup guys, I've got some questions. I've got a Blackwidow X chroma TE and it's pretty nice, considering getting some vortex doubleshot pbt caps for it just for the backlighting.

Anything I should know about them? Any other pbt doubleshot backlit key caps that I should consider under $50?

 

Also, any gateron red keyboard anyone can recommend for under/around $50? I want something quiet for typing at night since I live with roommates who don't like the loud clacking at night. I'm not a fan of cherry reds, they feel way too plastic-y/grainy for my taste.
Monoprice makes one that seems pretty nice, but that iso/ansi hybrid layout companies keep using kills it for me. And there's a Qisan keyboard on Amazon, but with a price of around $70, it seems pretty pricey for knockoff switches that can be found on cheaper boards.


CPU: AMD FX 8320e | Mobo: Gigabyte GA‑78LMT‑USB3 | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper n520 | RAM: 8Gb @ 1333MHz

 

GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1060 mITX | PSU: Antec HCG 520w | Storage: Sandisk 120GB - WD Red 1TB | Case: Modded IBM A50 sleeper

 

All displayed on an AOC I2421VWH

 

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I'm on my third mechanical keyboard now. First up was a Razor Blackwidow, then a Chroma. Upon the death of that Chroma, I have gone Corsair (K70 LUX RGB). Got it with Cherry MX Browns, since I thought my Razor was too loud.

 

I already love this thing. Even aside from the acoustic difference, I love the feel of these switches vs the Razor ones. The build quality seems really solid. I'm extremely happy with the choice that I made.


MSI Z170A Gaming M7 ͓  i7 6700k ͓  16GB DDR4-3200 ͓  EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Super XC Ultra Gaming

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I bet you folks have had this question asked repeated so I apologize if it brings any annoyance. Which switch allows for the need to make deliberate (heavy?) key presses? The descriptions in the OP aren't exactly clear on that for me.


CPU - i5 6600k | RAM - 16 GB DDR4 2133MHz | GPU - MSI Gaming X RX470 4GB | MOBO -  Asus z170-P

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13 minutes ago, PocketNerd said:

I bet you folks have had this question asked repeated so I apologize if it brings any annoyance. Which switch allows for the need to make deliberate (heavy?) key presses? The descriptions in the OP aren't exactly clear on that for me.

Chery Black?

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24 minutes ago, PocketNerd said:

I bet you folks have had this question asked repeated so I apologize if it brings any annoyance. Which switch allows for the need to make deliberate (heavy?) key presses? The descriptions in the OP aren't exactly clear on that for me.

Cherry blacks or greens are what you're looking for.

Blacks for a heavy linear switch, greens for heavier tactile switchs


CPU: AMD FX 8320e | Mobo: Gigabyte GA‑78LMT‑USB3 | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper n520 | RAM: 8Gb @ 1333MHz

 

GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1060 mITX | PSU: Antec HCG 520w | Storage: Sandisk 120GB - WD Red 1TB | Case: Modded IBM A50 sleeper

 

All displayed on an AOC I2421VWH

 

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