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NCASE M1 Build

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Components:

  • CPU: Intel Core i5 4670k
  • Motherboard: Asus Z87-I Deluxe
  • Memory: Crucial Ballistix Elite 2 x 8GB
  • Storage: 250GB Samsung 840 Evo & 2TB Samsung
  • Graphics Card: EVGA GTX 980
  • Case: Ncase M1 - Black
  • Power Supply: Silverstone ST45SF-G / 600W
    • Change Fan
    • Cut Out Fan Grill [borrow a dremel]
  • Optical Drive: EVGA Slim Slot-Load
  • Operating System: Linux & Windows 10

 

Water Cooling Parts:

  • CPU Block / Pump: Swiftech Apogee Drive II
  • Reservoir: Ncase M1 Reservoir
  • GPU Block: EK GeForce GTX 980 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal
  • Radiator: EK Cool Stream 240 PE
  • Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT - Brilliant UV Blue - 3/8" ID 1/2" OD
  • Coils: PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils – UV Orange [may not be used]
  • Coolant: PrimoChill Base Intensified - UV Electric Blue 32oz
  • Fans: 4 x Silverstone AP123 / NB-BlackSilent Pro 80 [carbon fiber stickers]
  • Compression Fittings: Bitspower 3/8” ID x ½” OD – Silver x 4
  • 90 Degree Fittings: Bitspower 3/8” ID x ½” OD Rotary – Silver Shining x 4
  • 90 Degree G1/4” Adapter: Alphacool G1/4 90° Low Profile Fitting Adapter - Chrome
  • Thermal Compound: Swiftech Tim-Mate

 

Custom Cables:

  • Sleeving: SGT Knots Paracord Dark Grey & Sky Blue & Black
  • Connectors: FrozenCPU ConnectRight [use nb fan connector for pump & aux psu connectors]
  • Wire: Frey Scientific 22-Gauge Black & Coleman Cable 18-Gauge Black
  • Cutter: Hakko CHP-170 Micro Clean Cutter
  • Pin Extractor: Lamptron Kit
  • Female ATX Pins: 120x
  • Molex Pins: 8x Male & 8x Female
  • Crimper: HT-225D
  • Stripper: Knipex Self Adjusting Insulation Strippers 10-24 Gauge
  • Custom Cables: Power Supply Socket P-037
  • Sata: Silverstone CP11 x3

Extras:

  • GPU Back Plate: EK GeForce 980 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black
  • UV Lighting: DarkSide CONNECT Dimmable 7.75" Modular LED Strip - UV
  • Unused Rear I/O Dust Covers:
  • Cable Organizer: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Tie – Blue x2
  • Networking: Ethernet [different wireless antennas]
  • Slimline Sata > Sata Adapter: Startech
  • Screws: Counter Sunk M3
  • Power Button: Something cool, car key ignition, launch button etc.
  • Dust Filters: DemciFlex Ncase M1 Set
  • Fan Splitter: 3 x Darkside 4-Pin PWM Fan Splitter Cable
  • Case Feet: MNPCTech Micro Aluminum Case Feet – Silver
  • Velcro: Pump / Reservoir Mounting Velcro x2
  • PCI Slot Cover: Gelid Solutions with Filter – Black 3-pack
Edited by prolemur
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Would love to see a Ncase build too bad they are just doing one batch of them.

It sucks, especially since it's such a good case. That's why I am planning this build out right now before I even buy the case to make sure it will all go down as planned.

 

Which appears to be the case... (bad unintended pun)

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It sucks, especially since it's such a good case. That's why I am planning this build out right now before I even buy the case to make sure it will all go down as planned.

 

Which appears to be the case... (bad unintended pun)

lol :lol:

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You can't expect to play everything on ultra with a 670, you need a. least a 780 to run Crysis 3 at max settings with playable framerates. You also want to watercool, so you will benefit from the compatibilty and price of the reference design.

My rig: CPU: Intel core i5 4670K MoBo: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming RAM: Kingston HyperX Beast 2x4GB 1600mhz CL9 GPU: EVGA GTX780 SC ACX SSD: ADATA Premier Pro SP900 256GBHDD: Western Digital RED 2TB PSU: FSP Aurum CM 750W Case: Cooler Master HAF XM OS: Windows 8 Pro

My Build log, the Snowbird (heavy WIP): http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/188011-snowbird-by-lachy/?hl=snowbird

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You can't expect to play everything on ultra with a 670, you need a. least a 780 to run Crysis 3 at max settings with playable framerates. You also want to watercool, so you will benefit from the compatibilty and price of the reference design.

I'm not expecting that and I'm probably going to upgrading it to one of the Nvidia Maxwell or AMD Volcanic Island graphics cards.

 

Yes, I would get a reference design if I end up upgrading. 

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that case... looks AWESOME!!

~~Korindo~~


Cubitek Mini ITX Build : - Cubitek Mini Cube - ASUS Z87i-Pro - Intel 4770K - 16gb G.Skill Ares 1866mhz -


- Samsung 840 500gb SSD x 2 - Noctua NH-L12 Cooler - Silverstone 550 watt Strider Gold PSU - Galaxy GeForce GTX Titan -

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I pledged for that case, even though I didn't have the money to buy one. I just wanted them to bring it to market :)

 

Am looking forward to this build! Just my two cents on this system:

  • If you're planning on rendering with this thing, stick with the i7
  • I'd go for Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz memory. It is relatively cheap, looks good and is low profile :)
  • Build a NAS instead of going for a USB3 drive ;)
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I pledged for that case, even though I didn't have the money to buy one. I just wanted them to bring it to market :)

 

Am looking forward to this build! Just my two cents on this system:

  • If you're planning on rendering with this thing, stick with the i7
  • I'd go for Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz memory. It is relatively cheap, looks good and is low profile :)
  • Build a NAS instead of going for a USB3 drive ;)

Thanks for the recommendations, I appreciate it :)

 

I know that the 3770k outperforms the 4670k but it might be easier selling my motherboard with a cpu because I have an ATX atm.

I prefer high profile for the aestetics, I was thinking about the Crucial Ballistic Elite. I'm not going to be getting overpriced 2800mhz ram or anything like that though :P

The thing is I already have a nas but it's downstairs and I use wifi. I can only get a maximum of 10 MBps :( It's my fathers house and i sadly can't just run cables through his wall 

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Instead of messing around with an Apogee Drive 2 and mirco res just get the Swiftech H220.

 

 

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Instead of messing around with an Apogee Drive 2 and mirco res just get the Swiftech H220.

I don't really want to buy things I won't be using (their fans, tubing and coolant) I know that it stil would be cheaper to do it this way, I just want a custom loop.

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I don't really want to buy things I won't be using (their fans, tubing and coolant) I know that it stil would be cheaper to do it this way, I just want a custom loop.

It's really the exact same thing and it will have a cleaner look. The H220 is also expandable so effectively a custom loop. The Swiftech Helix fans in my opinion are some of the best in the market, equal to Scythe GT's.

 

 

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It's really the exact same thing and it will have a cleaner look. The H220 is also expandable so effectively a custom loop. The Swiftech Helix fans in my opinion are some of the best in the market, equal to Scythe GT's.

Also I'm not sure if I won't have space for a real pump / res and if I do I'll be using that with a nice waterblock. I know I'm doing it the unpractical way though.

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The thing is I already have a nas but it's downstairs and I use wifi. I can only get a maximum of 10 MBps :( It's my fathers house and i sadly can't just run cables through his wall 

I know your pain. I ended up putting my server in my bedroom, behind my own gigabit router, together with my desktop. I use powerline adapters to connect my personal router to the router downstairs, which provides me with internet. I can really recommend powerline! Especially the newer adapters can reach reasonable throughput at quite a low latency.

 

Also: go for Noctua fan-wise!

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I know your pain. I ended up putting my server in my bedroom, behind my own gigabit router, together with my desktop. I use powerline adapters to connect my personal router to the router downstairs, which provides me with internet. I can really recommend powerline! Especially the newer adapters can reach reasonable throughput at quite a low latency.

 

Also: go for Noctua fan-wise!

I'm thinking noctuas atm, but I would want to have the same type throughout the build and I don't think they have slim 120mm and will probably follow your "mod your psu fan guide with the fans I choose"

 

sweet idea! But why did you just not use a switch, does your main router's wifi not reach your bedroom or just wanted the stronger signal?

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I'm thinking noctuas atm, but I would want to have the same type throughout the build and I don't think they have slim 120mm and will probably follow your "mod your psu fan guide with the fans I choose"

 

sweet idea! But why did you just not use a switch, does your main router's wifi not reach your bedroom or just wanted the stronger signal?

If you end up modding your PSU, consider just running the entire 4-pin header out of the PSU to the motherboard. This gives you full control of the fan inside your PSU. That's how I'm running it now...

 

I used to use a switch, but got a pretty sweet deal on a gigabit router and can always use a strong wifi connection directly at my server's location. It allows me to wirelessly stream HD videos to my laptop when I'm in my bed, for example. Before the powerline, I was using a wifi repeater located on a closet in my room that I hooked up to a switch to make the wifi signal a wired signal. TERRIBLE internet connection is what I remember from it :P

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If you end up modding your PSU, consider just running the entire 4-pin header out of the PSU to the motherboard. This gives you full control of the fan inside your PSU. That's how I'm running it now...

 

I used to use a switch, but got a pretty sweet deal on a gigabit router and can always use a strong wifi connection directly at my server's location. It allows me to wirelessly stream HD videos to my laptop when I'm in my bed, for example. Before the powerline, I was using a wifi repeater located on a closet in my room that I hooked up to a switch to make the wifi signal a wired signal. TERRIBLE internet connection is what I remember from it :P

Ya that could be a challenge where do you have your 4-pin running out, not the grill I presume?

 

I think I'm okay with wifi at the moment since my internet's speeds are so horrible (3 down, 0.5 up) that theres not much a difference :( 

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Ya that could be a challenge where do you have your 4-pin running out, not the grill I presume?

 

I think I'm okay with wifi at the moment since my internet's speeds are so horrible (3 down, 0.5 up) that theres not much a difference :(

It exits the unit together with the rest of the cables, just as the rpm sensing wire in my "mod your PSU even better" video. I had to open up the ring that holds the cables in place in the hole of the PSU in order to fit it through the opening :)

 

I know your pain again: 4 down, 0.5 up... I was actually suggesting powerline so that you can get higher throughput to your NAS, which is downstairs. Also, powerline should lower your latency (ping).

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It exits the unit together with the rest of the cables, just as the rpm sensing wire in my "mod your PSU even better" video. I had to open up the ring that holds the cables in place in the hole of the PSU in order to fit it through the opening :)

 

I know your pain again: 4 down, 0.5 up... I was actually suggesting powerline so that you can get higher throughput to your NAS, which is downstairs. Also, powerline should lower your latency (ping).

I'll probably get a powerline adapter and a switch so I can move my nas into my room and get better speeds.

 

I would follow that guide but the psu I'm using is full modular.

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I would follow that guide but the psu I'm using is full modular.

Drill a hole at the edge of the backplate? If you're modding it, might as wel do it properly :D

 

Make sure to link to your build log in this thread, wouldn't want to miss it!

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Drill a hole at the edge of the backplate? If you're modding it, might as wel do it properly :D

 

Make sure to link to your build log in this thread, wouldn't want to miss it!

Don't worry I will, give me 4 months :P

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I don't think I'll have to make my own cables after all assuming that this is compatible with the silverstone strider 450w gold sfx

 

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162010

 

Edit*

I just checked their website to see the specifications of the short sleeve kit and they are => to the ones that come with the sfx strider :(

At least I'll be able to use it instead of the one's that came with my psu to not void the warranty right?

Edited by prolemur
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