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DieHörnær

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Top Fan Cavity Mod

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hey Peoples!

 

Do you own or intend to buy a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Case?

 

First off, welcome to Club-Aluminum: "We Stroke Daily."

 

Secondly you might know that out of the box the PEEA case does not allow the user to place fans above the removable radiator bracket that comes handily installed.

- But you might not know this as only one reviewer bothered to investigate this overlooked design flaw. [http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cases/44770-phanteks-evolv-atx-aluminum-case-review]

 

This is a pretty self-explanatory mod but if you would like some pictures then have a gander.

 

There is enough room to fit a 25mm EK Vardar or any other fan under 29mm into the top cavity. If you remove all the support beams then there is about 45mm worth of space, unfortunately there is some steel in the way.

 

 

DSC_0521.JPG

 

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So some useful tools for this include:

 

 - A Dremel, rotary tool or other power tool to reach into small places - relatively cheap and comes in handy for lots of other things

[ Bunnings <<Hardware store>> - fitting #426 works great and is included in the box]

 

 - Pliers, metal files and possibly your teeth if you are on a budget. 

 

 

1. Grab some safety googles and gloves, you are cutting steel not a steak, look after your eyes.

 

 

2. Remove anything you have inside the case, components from a test-fit etc, and be sure to tape up the front-panel connector cables so they won't get in the way

    or get covered in crap. Place down a towel or cover on the inside of the case to collect all the grit and cut-offs, also to avoid damaging the interior of the case

     - makes cleaning up easier.

 

 

3. Remove the top aluminum piece of the case with the power button on it. There are four black screws to remove, 2 large ones on the front and 2 smaller ones on the rear. It takes a little shove to pull off but will slide off nicely.

 

 

4. Line up your radiator underneath the removable bracket and mark on the top steel face of the case where you will need to cut holes so that you can attach your

     fans to the radiator from above. Don't worry about the marks, they won't be visible when you put the case-hat back on [well duh].

 

 

5. Remove the radiator bracket and flatten the turned up edges on the inside three squares. Do this again but on the top steel-face of the case where the edges are turned down on the support beams. Pliers do a nice job, a mallet or         hammer prettys it up.

 

 

DSC_0541.JPG

 

DSC_0544.JPG

 

DSC_0545.JPG

 

 

6. Pull out the dremel or bolt-cutters or vampiric teeth and get cutting on the screw holes.

 

 

DSC_0670.JPG

 

 

Don't be a fool like me, get a dremel.

 

 

DSC_0672.JPG

 

 

7. Problem, how to actually get the fans in the top cavity. Unfortunately you will have to remove one of the middle case support beams, take your pic. 

 

 

8. Do a visual-line up and sand or file down the rough edges to avoid nasty steel cuts and loose pieces that may break off later and short out something. Finally dust-off the inside of the case thoroughly.

 

Slot your fans in and don't forget to rout their cables before you place the ballin' aluminum hat back on. If the acoustics are too loud, lower your fan's rpm or consider sticking some foam or noise-dampening material to the roof of the hat - don't forget the limited space.

 

 

Voila! Now you're rockin hidden fans.

 

 

DSC_0675.JPG

 

 

 

don-t-forget-to-stroke-flick.jpg

 

Club-Aluminum 2015.

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Awesome! This is exactly what I was thinking of doing to get fan clearance for my top rad, but I was worried about cutting up the beams up top -- has it affected the rigidity at all?

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Awesome! This is exactly what I was thinking of doing to get fan clearance for my top rad, but I was worried about cutting up the beams up top -- has it affected the rigidity at all?

 

Not that I have noticed when moving the case full of components. It doesn't flex anymore than before and you could probably cut away the two middle ones and not notice a difference. I doubt It has any negative consequences as there are 4 beams in total [top image] and it seems they are really machine punched out holes of a cheap steel plate for air flow and to help when assembling the case. 

 

I can't believe that someone at Phanteks didn't consider people might want to put fans in the nice large cavity provided or was it simply overlooked? Do we have a Phanteks rep on the forums? Maybe it was just cheaper to manufacture without room for fans or maybe they decided against it as they knew people wouldn't like having to take the top off just to put fans in, cause you know lazy.

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I signed up for the forum to say thank you for this post (found via a Google search).  This case was a recent purchase and after getting it out of the box this was the very first thought I had.  I am hoping to mount a 240 or 280mm radiator below the bracket with the fans above.  This looks very doable.

 

Once the fans are screwed in they provide some rigidity by tying the two sides together like the beams once did.  Regardless, the thick aluminum top panel probably provides all the rigidity this case needs.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Wow! Thanks a bunch xD

 

I stuggled with the name of the thread, trying to make it easy to google search. I'm glad someone was able to find it. It just seems like such a stupid waste of space overall, along with that I've learned that it's actually possible to put two 360 rads in the top and front together despite the BS the case manual sprouts.

 

http://www.modders-inc.com/phanteks-enthoo-evolve-atx-galaxy-silver-edition/

- Installation section.

 

They do have to be 30mm thick though, but I'd say its worth it for completley hidden fans and a super clean looking interior with the possibility for getting a custom plastic backplate to cover the HDD mounts. Mebe illuminated somehow? Some "Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS XFlow" radiators would make tubing and fittings a sinch.

 

Hope this helps someone else.

 

Will post mah build for help when life takes a seat.

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I did it.  Sleeved power supply cables and some other misc. finishing touches are on their way, but I am incredibly pleased with how well this turned out.  I hate the look of the fans hanging down off the radiator and blocking the motherboard when there is so much useless space above.  The cooler is a Corsair H110i.  This was chosen over the H115i because the Corsair logo faces the proper way when mounted in this orientation instead of upside down.

 

I first tried to use a vise grip with flat clamping faces on the radiator bracket, but mangled the bracket in the process.  It was a huge failure.  I resorted to using a Dremel with a grinding wheel to slowly grind down the lips on both the radiator bracket and the top of the case.  The lip on the radiator bracket is completely gone.  The lip on the top of the case is ~1mm (wanted to avoid repainting the top of the case). It took 2-3 hours.

 

The 27mm Noctua fans are a tight fit, but they're in there.  I was able to hold the fans to the inside of the top of the case while I slid the radiator bracket in.  This allowed me to get the fans in without cutting out one of the top support bars.  After marking where the holes needed to go for the fan screws it all came apart to drill the holes and then was all put back together again.

 

6603502D-89C2-463D-A579-771CE81C4ACE_zps

 

D7E3239F-2226-457C-8B87-6CDCDC941E12_zps

 

6919D72E-B5F5-4177-9FA6-E076711387A5_zps

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 13/03/2016 at 6:15 AM, JettaGetUpandGo said:

The 27mm Noctua fans are a tight fit, but they're in there.  I was able to hold the fans to the inside of the top of the case while I slid the radiator bracket in.  This allowed me to get the fans in without cutting out one of the top support bars.  After marking where the holes needed to go for the fan screws it all came apart to drill the holes and then was all put back together again.

D7E3239F-2226-457C-8B87-6CDCDC941E12_zps

Great job!

 

I love how clean your top is with the drilled holes. B|

 

I thought of doing it by sliding them in underneath but for some reason they did not fit, I cannot remeber why. Must of fallen head over heals with my lovely new dremmel.

 

Seems like we have almost exactly the same system too! Asus mobo with plasmour, Skylake, 980 ti and a samsung ssd lol. I do regret not getting the Silver case though, just need to get back to work on it arghh!

 

Well done happy that this helped someone and hopefully someone else too!

 

Oooooh those blue thumbscrews, have you got any hidden leds, they should plug right into you mobo as well I think from both kyle and Paul's reviews online [awesomesaucenetwork / Paul's Hardware]? Can see this lighting up in a nice blue wave, have a look at what Fiddymm did with his case:

 

KReGuEi.jpg

 

Buiild Log page 1:

 

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On 3/25/2016 at 1:18 AM, DieHörnær said:

Great job!

 

I love how clean your top is with the drilled holes. B|

 

I thought of doing it by sliding them in underneath but for some reason they did not fit, I cannot remeber why. Must of fallen head over heals with my lovely new dremmel.

 

Oooooh those blue thumbscrews, have you got any hidden leds, they should plug right into you mobo as well I think from both kyle and Paul's reviews online [awesomesaucenetwork / Paul's Hardware]? Can see this lighting up in a nice blue wave, have a look at what Fiddymm did with his case:

 

Thanks!

 

The fans were a pretty tight fit.  Maybe because I bent my bracket a little bit in the process of modifying it I created a little bit more room.

 

The build is completed now.  I have added the psu cables and finished the case badge to help tie in the other blue elements.

 

For lighting I added the NZXT Hue+ because of the additional control over the LEDs than the built-in Asus Aura software (might use the Asus connector with a cheap LED strip for desk lighting).  Comparing the cost of the Cablemod RGB LED strips and the NZXT was almost identical.  I do wish the NZXT strips were black instead of white...

 

I really like that front lighting mod!

Angled Shot.jpg

Side Profile.jpg

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 29/03/2016 at 6:45 PM, JettaGetUpandGo said:

Side Profile.jpg

Those cables ... oh!

I can definately see you going with a full custom loop in the future, so much room for activites!

 

For instance [apologies for the plebman photo]:

 

LTT1.jpg.457ac9f02165233232004ae3f13aa0a

 

Still not finished  : [

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Thanks!

 

I appreciate and respect the crap out of custom water cooled builds.  Sadly, there will never be one in any of my computers.  Why?  It's liquid inside of a computer case.  I'm not saying they all will fail, but they can.  Why introduce another potential point of failure inside the computer?

 

I really hesitated buying the Corsair AIO for the above reason.  Ultimately what swayed my decision is the fact that it's a closed loop sealed by the manufacturer.  There have been rare cases of leaking, but through research it seems that Corsair is good about replacing components that failed due to their AIO cooler leaking.  The risk factor is extremely low.  There is no warranty of any kind if a fitting in a custom loop leaks onto a $600 video card.  That's a tough pill to swallow.

 

I did not find a single air cooler that met my criteria (didn't block ram slots, quiet, didn't look like butt).  There were also reports of the large, heavy coolers crushing the die on the processor during movement or if the case was jostled (Skylake only).  I do travel 2-3 times a year with my PC.  Movement could also be the death of a custom loop, especially one with hard lines.  As we all know, hard lines are the only way to do a proper custom loop. :)

 

I'm loving the metal tubes in your system.  I look forward to seeing it complete!

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On March 29, 2016 at 3:45 AM, JettaGetUpandGo said:

 

Thanks!

 

The fans were a pretty tight fit.  Maybe because I bent my bracket a little bit in the process of modifying it I created a little bit more room.

 

The build is completed now.  I have added the psu cables and finished the case badge to help tie in the other blue elements.

 

For lighting I added the NZXT Hue+ because of the additional control over the LEDs than the built-in Asus Aura software (might use the Asus connector with a cheap LED strip for desk lighting).  Comparing the cost of the Cablemod RGB LED strips and the NZXT was almost identical.  I do wish the NZXT strips were black instead of white...

 

I really like that front lighting mod!

Angled Shot.jpg

Side Profile.jpg

I just finished the same build and the top rad mod was an excellent idea for my noctuas...question for ya... Did you notice your hx1000i get hot in the evolv? My hx850i shot up 10 degrees from my 500r to this case 

 

my psu temp hits 50 degrees!

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On 7/6/2016 at 11:10 PM, Acp11 said:

I just finished the same build and the top rad mod was an excellent idea for my noctuas...question for ya... Did you notice your hx1000i get hot in the evolv? My hx850i shot up 10 degrees from my 500r to this case 

 

my psu temp hits 50 degrees!

Nope.  My PSU temps are low.  It idles at 29 degrees and load is well under 50.  My system only consumes 80 watts at idle and ~450 when gaming.  The power supply was definitely overkill, but I wanted to support a second 980ti someday and the H1000i was cheaper than the H850i at the time.

 

CPU temps are very high in this case.  I consistently 80 while gaming.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 07/07/2016 at 2:10 PM, Acp11 said:

I just finished the same build and the top rad mod was an excellent idea for my noctuas...question for ya... Did you notice your hx1000i get hot in the evolv? My hx850i shot up 10 degrees from my 500r to this case 

 

my psu temp hits 50 degrees!

How many fans you got in the case? 2 intakes and 2 exhaust up top? I've been considering flipping my rear 120 next to cpu from an exhaust to an intake, just can't seem to find an appropriate dust filter. Might have to make one...I'm only hitting 60 under load so not as pressing. Is your PSU mounted up or down too? I think Jayz2cents did a video a while ago on case pressure.

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I am debating on trying this mod or just returning the case.   I am running a custom loop and currently my temps idling around 40C and hitting mid to high 60s under load.  I am considering adding another Radiator up top but I am also assuming this case just doesn't' have enough airflow. :(  


Tell my tale to those who ask. Tell it truly; the ill deeds along with the good, and let me be judged accordingly.

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On 3/13/2016 at 3:15 PM, JettaGetUpandGo said:

I did it.  Sleeved power supply cables and some other misc. finishing touches are on their way, but I am incredibly pleased with how well this turned out.  I hate the look of the fans hanging down off the radiator and blocking the motherboard when there is so much useless space above.  The cooler is a Corsair H110i.  This was chosen over the H115i because the Corsair logo faces the proper way when mounted in this orientation instead of upside down.

 

I first tried to use a vise grip with flat clamping faces on the radiator bracket, but mangled the bracket in the process.  It was a huge failure.  I resorted to using a Dremel with a grinding wheel to slowly grind down the lips on both the radiator bracket and the top of the case.  The lip on the radiator bracket is completely gone.  The lip on the top of the case is ~1mm (wanted to avoid repainting the top of the case). It took 2-3 hours.

 

The 27mm Noctua fans are a tight fit, but they're in there.  I was able to hold the fans to the inside of the top of the case while I slid the radiator bracket in.  This allowed me to get the fans in without cutting out one of the top support bars.  After marking where the holes needed to go for the fan screws it all came apart to drill the holes and then was all put back together again.

 

6603502D-89C2-463D-A579-771CE81C4ACE_zps

 

D7E3239F-2226-457C-8B87-6CDCDC941E12_zps

 

6919D72E-B5F5-4177-9FA6-E076711387A5_zps

 
 

Wait, could you please go into more detail on how you got the tops off of those top beans so cleanly? Your method looks almost factory while, well, OP looks like he went at it with a dremel and hammer d:

 

Also any tips you could give on not messing up any paint in the process would be great. This would be my first time working with metal and this is some expensive metal to mess up..

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13 hours ago, Awakening said:

Wait, could you please go into more detail on how you got the tops off of those top beans so cleanly? Your method looks almost factory while, well, OP looks like he went at it with a dremel and hammer d:

 

Also any tips you could give on not messing up any paint in the process would be great. This would be my first time working with metal and this is some expensive metal to mess up..

"Tops off of those top beans"?
 

I literally used a Dremel with a grinding wheel (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-EZ-Lock-Metal-Grinding-Wheel-EZ541GR/203077218) and a lot of patience.

 

On the removable bracket I was not very careful with the grinding and wound up repainting the bracket with a flat or satin black spray paint (can't remember, but I had a can of it lying around).  On the top part of the actual case (or the bottom of the "beams" I was quite a bit more careful.  After removing the top part of the case I wrapped everything except the lips that I was grinding with painters tape.  I was careful enough that I did not need to repaint this part.

 

The OP either used a pliers or hammer and flattened the lips.  I slowly ground them down with the Dremel until there was enough space for the fans.  The lips are on the bottom side of the beam, so you can't see any of my grinding.  This is why the top looks unscathed aside from the holes drilled for the fan screws.

 

For the holes that were drilled I placed the radiator/fans in the case and roughly marked where the holes needed to be for the fan screws.  I used drill bit a couple of sizes up from the diameter of my screwdriver.  This gave me enough of a margin of error that if they holes weren't in the perfect spot I could still get the screws in and tightened.

 

Once the case is assembled your handiwork will never be seen.  If it doesn't turn out perfect no one but you will ever know.

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1 hour ago, JettaGetUpandGo said:

"Tops off of those top beans"?
 

I literally used a Dremel with a grinding wheel (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-EZ-Lock-Metal-Grinding-Wheel-EZ541GR/203077218) and a lot of patience.

 

On the removable bracket I was not very careful with the grinding and wound up repainting the bracket with a flat or satin black spray paint (can't remember, but I had a can of it lying around).  On the top part of the actual case (or the bottom of the "beams" I was quite a bit more careful.  After removing the top part of the case I wrapped everything except the lips that I was grinding with painters tape.  I was careful enough that I did not need to repaint this part.

 

The OP either used a pliers or hammer and flattened the lips.  I slowly ground them down with the Dremel until there was enough space for the fans.  The lips are on the bottom side of the beam, so you can't see any of my grinding.  This is why the top looks unscathed aside from the holes drilled for the fan screws.

 

For the holes that were drilled I placed the radiator/fans in the case and roughly marked where the holes needed to be for the fan screws.  I used drill bit a couple of sizes up from the diameter of my screwdriver.  This gave me enough of a margin of error that if they holes weren't in the perfect spot I could still get the screws in and tightened.

 

Once the case is assembled your handiwork will never be seen.  If it doesn't turn out perfect no one but you will ever know.

 
 
 
3

 

Your first paragraph explains much more eloquently the part I was talking about.

 

Thanks for clearing a lot of that up, but I have a couple more questions.

 

Is there a particular reason you didn't first cut the lips off with a saw attachment and then go at it with the wheel (I feel like that would have at the very least cut the time in half)? Also, what all did you cover with painter's tape? Just the top and bottom of the large horizontal piece of metal you were working with? Everything near the top in general? How did you clean up afterwards and what direction did you have the grinding wheel spinning towards (the direction sparks were flying)? What position did you find the most comfortable for prolonged grinding :P?

 

I'll feel a whole lot more comfortable doing this to the case when I get it with most of those questions cleared up. I know, like you said, it wouldn't be known to anyone but me if I did a shotty job like OP, but I don't think I could live with myself knowing the amount of abuse I put my case through and how beaten up it is inside. You on the other hand.. if I end up doing even half as good of a job I'll be happy with it.

 

And I noticed you still had brown rubber corners on our IPPC Noctua fans in the top. I can't tell if your front fans are the same or even Noctua fans, but here's a recommendation nonetheless since you're going for an all black build:  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018SOU3UG http://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/chromax

.

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7 hours ago, Awakening said:

Is there a particular reason you didn't first cut the lips off with a saw attachment and then go at it with the wheel (I feel like that would have at the very least cut the time in half)? Also, what all did you cover with painter's tape? Just the top and bottom of the large horizontal piece of metal you were working with? Everything near the top in general? How did you clean up afterwards and what direction did you have the grinding wheel spinning towards (the direction sparks were flying)? What position did you find the most comfortable for prolonged grinding :P?

 

And I noticed you still had brown rubber corners on our IPPC Noctua fans in the top. I can't tell if your front fans are the same or even Noctua fans, but here's a recommendation nonetheless since you're going for an all black build:  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018SOU3UG http://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/chromax

.

I thought about trying to cut the lips off then grind down the rest.  I had more control with the grinding.  Even though it took a while there was less risk of error.  I removed the top panel from the case and the small circuit board with the power switch.  Every square inch of the top panel was covered in tape except for the lips that I was grinding.  It helped having a wider 2" tape, then a narrower tape for in between the lips.

 

I did it at my workbench in an unfinished part of the basement.  I wasn't concerned about the mess as I could just vacuum the workbench/concrete after.  It helped sitting at a stool.  I also clamped the parts down to keep them from moving as I the grinding (this style of clamp worked well.  there are many different brands/sizes: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Small-Trigger-Clamp-DWHT83191/204987956).  The Dremel only spins one way.  I think the sparks fly to the left.  I wouldn't try doing this in a bedroom or finished area.  You will make a mess.  Perhaps the garage or outside on the patio?

 

The front and rear fans are still the original Phanteks ones.  They're quiet enough at lower speeds and I like the black/white contrast (they're the reason for the white stripe in the 24-pin cable).  For the Noctua fans, I bought the black corners after everything was assembled, but never put them in.  I know they're brown and it bothers me, but it's not worth taking everything apart to change something that no one will ever see.  Looking up from inside the case the fans are blocked by the radiator.  You can't see them through the narrow vents/mesh at the top either.

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2 hours ago, JettaGetUpandGo said:

I thought about trying to cut the lips off then grind down the rest.  I had more control with the grinding.  Even though it took a while there was less risk of error.  I removed the top panel from the case and the small circuit board with the power switch.  Every square inch of the top panel was covered in tape except for the lips that I was grinding.  It helped having a wider 2" tape, then a narrower tape for in between the lips.

 

I did it at my workbench in an unfinished part of the basement.  I wasn't concerned about the mess as I could just vacuum the workbench/concrete after.  It helped sitting at a stool.  I also clamped the parts down to keep them from moving as I the grinding (this style of clamp worked well.  there are many different brands/sizes: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Small-Trigger-Clamp-DWHT83191/204987956).  The Dremel only spins one way.  I think the sparks fly to the left.  I wouldn't try doing this in a bedroom or finished area.  You will make a mess.  Perhaps the garage or outside on the patio?

 

The front and rear fans are still the original Phanteks ones.  They're quiet enough at lower speeds and I like the black/white contrast (they're the reason for the white stripe in the 24-pin cable).  For the Noctua fans, I bought the black corners after everything was assembled, but never put them in.  I know they're brown and it bothers me, but it's not worth taking everything apart to change something that no one will ever see.  Looking up from inside the case the fans are blocked by the radiator.  You can't see them through the narrow vents/mesh at the top either.

 
 
 
2

Alright, sounds easy enough. Should help a good bit.

 

Was it straight-forward as to how to actually get the fans inside there without cutting a top beam completely off like OP did? And about using a saw bit, do you think it'd be a good idea to use that first on the large lips hanging down from the top beams and then grind it smooth like I said in my previous comment and then only use a grinder on the smaller lips for the removable cage?

 

Also, yeah, I don't think it really matters if you only have the Noctua fans on the top--nobody sees them, that's the whole point of the mod. Could've gone with the poop brown model if you wanted to. I'd probably go with the same kind of fan setup too if I didn't need five IPPC fans which would get stupidly expensive really fast. It'd make sense to sound proof and ventilate my closet and keep my PC in there just to use less radiator and have the fans at full RPM all the time for better temps, but ehh, I wanna see my beautiful PC. HP-12 fans at low RPMs it is.

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Assembly was pretty straightforward.  I held the two fans in place and slid the radiator bracket in.  This kept the fans from falling as I held up the radiator and aligned the holes with the fans (and the holes drilled in the top).

 

You could try cutting most of the lips off.  I don't see any harm in doing that if you can hold the Dremel steady.

 

If/when you do this, be sure to post pictures here!

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Hi guys, name's Amir, nickname Chamir, from Argentina. Great thread. I'm about to get this case and the place where the fans are placed SUCKS. So, looking for some solution to make it looks nicer, i've found this place. So, I wanna thank you in advance and when I start working on it, I'll let you know with some pics and, more probably, asking for help! Nite!

 

Sorry for my english!

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Hello again, have some good news, case arrived today and 3 hs later I was working on it. I'll post pics and information about a tool that can save many many time and efford. Let me tell you, with this tool and that disk (no idea the english name) you can save a lot of time. And you choose if you want to do it quick but not so «fine» or do most of the work and then get Dremel to polish or finish the job in a better quality finish. Personaly i preffer save time and get the job done as soon as posible, because this part of the case stays hidden and no one will see the work

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I can't take my system apart to look, but I think those screws go at the top of the near the back?  Maybe they are used for aligning the top panel.

 

I remember seeing them, but I did not have to remove them.

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