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1 minute ago, PandaCopyRight said:

technically same wheel with different look and button layout and the TMX i think had only 900 degrees of rotation instead of 1080 ... oh and the xbone or ps3/ps4 compatibility 

 

saving up for the fanatec handbrake and shifter .. .and eventually the DD1 wheel 

regret buying the shifter, never used it... you have to have one hell of a rig to keep it stable, i have the N1 from Rseat, and it is fairly stable, still wobbles a bit when i shift.

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8 minutes ago, RasmusDC said:

regret buying the shifter, never used it... you have to have one hell of a rig to keep it stable, i have the N1 from Rseat, and it is fairly stable, still wobbles a bit when i shift.

i plan on making my own ... from steel .... tig welded ... nothing movable... but that is in the future when i have more time, money and space :D 

 

the other option would the the thrustmaster TH8A and the thrustmaster handbrake but idk if i want them if i want to move over the the fanatec system

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7 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

i plan on making my own ... from steel .... tig welded ... nothing movable... but that is in the future when i have more time, money and space :D 

 

the other option would the the thrustmaster TH8A and the thrustmaster handbrake but idk if i want them if i want to move over the the fanatec system

 

Solid 3D print is just as strong  ?

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well the N1 is really thick steel, and one of the most sturdy rigs, but still.. even at a 100KG of steel, the shifter is just not stable enough

 

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35 minutes ago, RasmusDC said:

well the N1 is really thick steel, and one of the most sturdy rigs, but still.. even at a 100KG of steel, the shifter is just not stable enough

 

probably not reinforced enough?  idk 

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Acclimating to the XB1 controller in PC2, decided to throw in the Explorer. So much fun. Ive actually been wanting to splurge on a PSVR and PS4 for GT Sport for the longest time, but I think this combo can tide me over for a bit longer.

 

 

Although when I hope into ACC, its almost undriveable. All my braking points are different and Im horribly off pace, but its probably just me. Also the game seems to chug heavily in the night in VR so thats a thing.

 

 

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25 minutes ago, chaozbandit said:

Acclimating to the XB1 controller in PC2, decided to throw in the Explorer. So much fun. Ive actually been wanting to splurge on a PSVR and PS4 for GT Sport for the longest time, but I think this combo can tide me over for a bit longer.

-snip-

 

Although when I hope into ACC, its almost undriveable. All my braking points are different and Im horribly off pace, but its probably just me. Also the game seems to chug heavily in the night in VR so thats a thing.

-snip-

 

need moar 1080ti

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41 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

need moar 1080ti

 

Send me $300 USD, which equates to 497,385 canadian rupees. Then I'll buy a 1080Ti lel

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6 hours ago, PandaCopyRight said:

technically same wheel with different look and button layout and the TMX i think had only 900 degrees of rotation instead of 1080 ... oh and the xbone or ps3/ps4 compatibility 

 

saving up for the fanatec handbrake and shifter .. .and eventually the DD1 wheel 

Yep, it is 900 degrees. Though I rarely find myself turning more than 270. I like a quick steering rack. ;) 

 

Really like the way it feels. Did some more driving this afternoon on the Nordschliefe with various cars. The belt definitely gives it a smoother and more fluid-like feel, yet it still delivers the sharp feedback you'd get while hitting curbs and bumps. I like the button layout as well. More buttons to program and easier to hit the right one without looking compared to my old G27 where I'd sometimes hit the wrong one. lol 

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22 minutes ago, MEC-777 said:

Yep, it is 900 degrees. Though I rarely find myself turning more than 270. I like a quick steering rack. ;) 

 

Really like the way it feels. Did some more driving this afternoon on the Nordschliefe with various cars. The belt definitely gives it a smoother and more fluid-like feel, yet it still delivers the sharp feedback you'd get while hitting curbs and bumps. I like the button layout as well. More buttons to program and easier to hit the right one without looking compared to my old G27 where I'd sometimes hit the wrong one. lol 

i set mine to 540 or 900 .. .depending on what im doing ... not a fan of constantly going from lock to lock on 1080 degrees xD 

for racing i do 900, for drifting usually 540 or 720 ... i have used 1080 on ETS2 ... too lazy to do that again :D 

do find myself wanting a faster FFB wheel for drifting tho 

 

but i do love this wheel, especially for the price its hard to beat (got mine for 170 euros its also the fancy ferrari edition ... cause i didnt want a PS4 logo on my wheel )

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@MEC-777 Less than an hour in and suffice to say, the LIDAR model just blows everything else out of the water.

 

 

 

Having been to CTMP almost a dozen times in the 2018 season and covered all of the spectator areas, I can vouch for its visual accuracy. Track surface wise it seems a bit loose but the bumps are all there, sometimes excessively but its hard to say since Ive only ridden in street cars. The curbs could use a bit of profiling but the repaved surfaces from 2012 mostly follow what Ive seen in real racing. The green track limit paint, new for 2018, is a nice touch.

 

I'm ecstatic to be able to go through 5B without a 50/50 fear of instant death now!! Once john gets the small things like the dip halfway through 3A, it'll be an amazing mod.

 

VDSF-17 77.jpg

 

Oops forgot the link

 

https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/mosport-ctmp-0-8.24486/

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The infield.. its all there!!

 

 

Lapping the indycar in VR... for once it hasnt crashed, which means openVR is probably borked on the R9 290 or something to do with Relive. Just wish AC didnt default to such a stupid FOV that I cant figure out how to change.

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Check ride. CTMP in 59 seconds. Hard to say how accurate the surface is since there are some bumps in weird places, probably a byproduct of smoothening the LIDAR data. Particularly the way you fall off the outside of curbs and the outer edges of the transition strips, but nothing you cant adjust to. 

 

Again, its leaps and bounds better than the previous models I was using where all of sector 2 was like racing roulette.

 

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On 12/27/2018 at 1:41 PM, PandaCopyRight said:

i plan on making my own ... from steel .... tig welded ... nothing movable... but that is in the future when i have more time, money and space :D 

 

the other option would the the thrustmaster TH8A and the thrustmaster handbrake but idk if i want them if i want to move over the the fanatec system

I had the TH8A for a while, it was crap. The Fanatec is much better. Couldn't talk about the TM HB, but the Fanatec one is basically a spring with a pot. Which isn't bad, it's very simple components.

 

I don't know what nonsense he's talking about with the shifter not being sturdy enough.

#Muricaparrotgang

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G27 shifter adapter finally arrived. Time to jam some gears again. :)

 

IMG_20190104_181840.thumb.jpg.93c90ccd7afebb50f09ca0dcd1782287.jpg

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I just acquired a Fanatec CSW v2 for free and I am wondering if anyone here has upgraded the internals to CSW v2.5? I can get all the parts for $140 shipped which is effectively saving me $360 but just wondering if I am going to far deep into it

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, CA8OOS3 said:

I just acquired a Fanatec CSW v2 for free and I am wondering if anyone here has upgraded the internals to CSW v2.5? I can get all the parts for $140 shipped which is effectively saving me $360 but just wondering if I am going to far deep into it

 

 

IF it works fine dont see why you would need the upgrade

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Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

 

 

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On 1/5/2019 at 6:57 AM, chaozbandit said:

 

IF it works fine dont see why you would need the upgrade

It's not fine, owner said it made alot of noise when turning to the right and it lost force feedback

 

 

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54 minutes ago, CA8OOS3 said:

It's not fine, owner said it made alot of noise when turning to the right and it lost force feedback

If thats the case, I'd open it up and see how badly its worn down. If it costs less to service just those parts than swap out the v2.5 internals go for it, otherwise you could just jump straight to the full upgrade.

 

As I see it theres little difference in the bases at the end of the day and the savings could be better used towards pedals or something else you dont already have.

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4 hours ago, chaozbandit said:

If thats the case, I'd open it up and see how badly its worn down. If it costs less to service just those parts than swap out the v2.5 internals go for it, otherwise you could just jump straight to the full upgrade.

 

As I see it theres little difference in the bases at the end of the day and the savings could be better used towards pedals or something else you dont already have.

So replacement parts are $140 shipped, that's the new motor, pcb and fans I just dont have a wheel for the base

 

 

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Sigh

 

D34C9859-5151-43C3-BEA2-19A779D77CD9.png

1303776D-DD15-459B-8180-452C31248CDC.thumb.png.d3e3ec4a71ad1800ef54dcbb724da8f6.png

 

On the one hand I can confirm the bentley is the easiest to drive on the gamepad.

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