Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
Kermit

Did I murder my computer?

Obviously your machine isn't fried, it's POSTing. I think it's best if you do a clean install, it seems like the current install is broken. Connect the drive to another computer, pull everything off and then do the following.

 

Try changing your SSD from GPT to MBR by hitting SHIFT+F10 while in the Windows installer and typing the following:

 

diskpart

list disk

select disk (whichever number represents your SSD)

clean (will erase partitions and data)

format fs=ntfs

convert mbr

exit

exit

 

And then you should be fine. If not, I'd suggest using Darik's Boot and Nuke on your drive to completely wipe it, then install Windows through the installer.

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

NOTE: My computer was working fine until this.

 

So my ROG Maximus IV Gene-Z mobtherboard came in the mail today, used (that shouldnt make a difference, as the seller said everything was working). I unplugged the cables from my computer, swapped the cpu, ram, gpu and cooler to the new motherboard, then putting it inside the case and wiring everything up.

 

PROBLEM

I go to boot my system, but I didn't have my front panel IO connected yet, so I pressed the "Start" button on the bottom of the board, starting the computer. After a few seconds the "No boot device detected, please insert boot device and restart" screen popped up. So I restart, going into BIOS. I changed my primary boot option to Windows Boot Manager (then the name of my SSD) and my secondary to just the name of my SSD. Is there a difference between just the SSD and Boot Manager??? Anyways, I saved the BIOS and restarted. This time, windows popped up and started to multicolor flag loading screen (windows 7). After it finished, it sat frozen at the flag animation, and then quickly flashed a blue screen...YES BLUE SCREEN... and restarted.

 

I've tried loading my windows disk, clicking "Fix my Computer" and resetting my drives to a backup 4 days ago on the 7th, but it didn't do anything. Also, if I try to install a new version of windows, I cannot install on my SSD for some reason (it says it's a GPT partition and cannot be installed on that). So then I just insert my disk AGAIN and press "Fix my Computer", but this time it says that my WIndows is out of date (because I just fucking went back to a 4 day old backup, and I cant use "Fix my Computer" anymore...

 

I do remember getting to a black and white screen that said: "Windows could not be launched because of a change in hardware or software"... no shit sherlock.

 

Did I just fry my machine or am I missing something?

I know this is a lot, you can ask questions.

 

Thank you so so so much in advance,

-MLGKermit


CPU: Intel i5-2400 Mobo: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z RAM: 8GB G.Skill DDR3 1333MHz GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Tri-X Case Corsair Obsidian Series 350D PSU: EVGA 500w 80+ Certified

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Best Answer

Obviously your machine isn't fried, it's POSTing. I think it's best if you do a clean install, it seems like the current install is broken. Connect the drive to another computer, pull everything off and then do the following.

 

Try changing your SSD from GPT to MBR by hitting SHIFT+F10 while in the Windows installer and typing the following:

 

diskpart

list disk

select disk (whichever number represents your SSD)

clean (will erase partitions and data)

format fs=ntfs

convert mbr

exit

exit

 

And then you should be fine. If not, I'd suggest using Darik's Boot and Nuke on your drive to completely wipe it, then install Windows through the installer.


The Desktops

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X | RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 | Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero | Storage: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, 1.2TB Fusion ioDrive2, 3x1TB HDDs | GPU: GTX 1080 Strix O8G | Cooling: 2x240mm AIO + NZXT Kraken G12 | Case: Cooler Master NR600 | PSU: EVGA GS 550W

Secondary Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X | RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200 | Motherboard: ASUS Prime X470-Pro | Storage: 256GB Crucial MX100 | GPU: GTX 970 Strix | Cooling: Reeven Ouranos + Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 240 (GPU) | Case: Fractal Design Meshify C TG | PSU: Corsair CX550M

Tertiary Rig: CPU: Intel Xeon X5687 | RAM: 12GB (3x4GB) DDR3-1600 | Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-Premium | Storage: 240GB SanDisk SSD | GPU: GTX 560 2GB (with GTX 770 TF cooler) | Cooling: 360mm Chinese Open Loop | Case: Open Bench (for now) | PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700W

Oculus Rift CV1: 2x Sensors


Apple Corner

MacBook Pro (Early 2015, A1502) 13": CPU: Intel Core i5-5257U | RAM: 16GB DDR3-1867 | Storage: 256GB SM0256G SSD | GPU: Intel Iris 6100 | iPhone XS Max 64GB (Space Grey) | Apple Watch Series 2 (42mm) | AirPods (2nd Generation)

Other Assorted Tech

Nintendo Switch (Gray, HAC-001) with modded Joy-Cons (Blue housings and D-Pad) | Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer | PS4 Fat | PS Vita PCH-1000 (Henkaku 3.60 CFW)

Link to post
Share on other sites

NOTE: My computer was working fine until this.

 

So my ROG Maximus IV Gene-Z mobtherboard came in the mail today, used (that shouldnt make a difference, as the seller said everything was working). I unplugged the cables from my computer, swapped the cpu, ram, gpu and cooler to the new motherboard, then putting it inside the case and wiring everything up.

 

PROBLEM

I go to boot my system, but I didn't have my front panel IO connected yet, so I pressed the "Start" button on the bottom of the board, starting the computer. After a few seconds the "No boot device detected, please insert boot device and restart" screen popped up. So I restart, going into BIOS. I changed my primary boot option to Windows Boot Manager (then the name of my SSD) and my secondary to just the name of my SSD. Is there a difference between just the SSD and Boot Manager??? Anyways, I saved the BIOS and restarted. This time, windows popped up and started to multicolor flag loading screen (windows 7). After it finished, it sat frozen at the flag animation, and then quickly flashed a blue screen...YES BLUE SCREEN... and restarted.

 

I've tried loading my windows disk, clicking "Fix my Computer" and resetting my drives to a backup 4 days ago on the 7th, but it didn't do anything. Also, if I try to install a new version of windows, I cannot install on my SSD for some reason (it says it's a GPT partition and cannot be installed on that). So then I just insert my disk AGAIN and press "Fix my Computer", but this time it says that my WIndows is out of date (because I just fucking went back to a 4 day old backup, and I cant use "Fix my Computer" anymore...

 

I do remember getting to a black and white screen that said: "Windows could not be launched because of a change in hardware or software"... no shit sherlock.

 

Did I just fry my machine or am I missing something?

I know this is a lot, you can ask questions.

 

Thank you so so so much in advance,

-MLGKermit

That there is a classic symptom of Microsoft BS. You need to re-install Windows as its locked to the old motherboard.


"We also blind small animals with cosmetics.
We do not sell cosmetics. We just blind animals."

 

"Please don't mistake us for Equifax. Those fuckers are evil"

 

This PSA brought to you by Equifacks.
PMSL

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP

Obviously your machine isn't fried, it's POSTing. I think it's best if you do a clean install, it seems like the current install is broken. Connect the drive to another computer, pull everything off and then do the following.

 

Try changing your SSD from GPT to MBR by hitting SHIFT+F10 while in the Windows installer and typing the following:

 

diskpart

list disk

select disk (whichever number represents your SSD)

clean (will erase partitions and data)

format fs=ntfs

convert mbr

exit

exit

 

And then you should be fine. If not, I'd suggest using Darik's Boot and Nuke on your drive to completely wipe it, then install Windows through the installer.

 

1) I'm fine with losing any data on my disks, but did you say connect it to anther computer just to save the data?

and

2) doing SHIFT+F10 will open what? command-promt?


CPU: Intel i5-2400 Mobo: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z RAM: 8GB G.Skill DDR3 1333MHz GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Tri-X Case Corsair Obsidian Series 350D PSU: EVGA 500w 80+ Certified

Link to post
Share on other sites

1) I'm fine with losing any data on my disks, but did you say connect it to anther computer just to save the data?

and

2) doing SHIFT+F10 will open what? command-promt?

1. Yeah, that's if you have anything that you can't just replace.

2. Correct, SHIFT and F10 will open Command prompt, where you would input all of the commands I listed in order.


The Desktops

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X | RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 | Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero | Storage: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, 1.2TB Fusion ioDrive2, 3x1TB HDDs | GPU: GTX 1080 Strix O8G | Cooling: 2x240mm AIO + NZXT Kraken G12 | Case: Cooler Master NR600 | PSU: EVGA GS 550W

Secondary Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X | RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200 | Motherboard: ASUS Prime X470-Pro | Storage: 256GB Crucial MX100 | GPU: GTX 970 Strix | Cooling: Reeven Ouranos + Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 240 (GPU) | Case: Fractal Design Meshify C TG | PSU: Corsair CX550M

Tertiary Rig: CPU: Intel Xeon X5687 | RAM: 12GB (3x4GB) DDR3-1600 | Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-Premium | Storage: 240GB SanDisk SSD | GPU: GTX 560 2GB (with GTX 770 TF cooler) | Cooling: 360mm Chinese Open Loop | Case: Open Bench (for now) | PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700W

Oculus Rift CV1: 2x Sensors


Apple Corner

MacBook Pro (Early 2015, A1502) 13": CPU: Intel Core i5-5257U | RAM: 16GB DDR3-1867 | Storage: 256GB SM0256G SSD | GPU: Intel Iris 6100 | iPhone XS Max 64GB (Space Grey) | Apple Watch Series 2 (42mm) | AirPods (2nd Generation)

Other Assorted Tech

Nintendo Switch (Gray, HAC-001) with modded Joy-Cons (Blue housings and D-Pad) | Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer | PS4 Fat | PS Vita PCH-1000 (Henkaku 3.60 CFW)

Link to post
Share on other sites

No you did not murder your computer


CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700X / MOBO: ASUS B350F Strix / RAM: Corsair 16GB DDR4-3000 / GPU: MSI GTX1060 / SSD: Samsung EVO 500GB, OCZ 500GB / HDD: Seagate 4TB, WD Black 4TB / PSU: Seasonic 650W Gold / Case: Fractal Design Meshify C / Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S / KB: Logitech G710+/ Mouse:Logitech G900/ OS: Windows 10

Link to post
Share on other sites

you shouldn't have issues like that from just migrating hardware, but sometimes windows is dumb. what was the cause listed on the BSOD?


Troubleshooting a pc will make you believe in gremlins.

--Thread killer--

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP

you shouldn't have issues like that from just migrating hardware, but sometimes windows is dumb. what was the cause listed on the BSOD?

 

It wasnt a conventional BSOD

But no, it didn't list anything. It just flashed for maybe 1/100th of a second (I had to record with slo-mo on my iphone to get that screenshot).

 

YXkxY2P.png


CPU: Intel i5-2400 Mobo: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z RAM: 8GB G.Skill DDR3 1333MHz GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Tri-X Case Corsair Obsidian Series 350D PSU: EVGA 500w 80+ Certified

Link to post
Share on other sites

Paragon adaptive restore. Lets you run windows on new hardware.

Link to post
Share on other sites

IF it wasn't an SSD I'd say your hard drive is having an issue, I'm a little perplexed though, usually windows isn't so picky when it migrates, i recently migrated to a new board and CPU and all i had to do was reactivate windows. Perhaps try reinstalling your ram, and make sure the CPU cooler is making good contact with the CPU, if these fail, i'd try a clean install. 


Troubleshooting a pc will make you believe in gremlins.

--Thread killer--

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP

1. Yeah, that's if you have anything that you can't just replace.

2. Correct, SHIFT and F10 will open Command prompt, where you would input all of the commands I listed in order.

 

I will try this tomorrow, too late now. 

 

You might want to follow the thread, but I'll also tag you on updates.

cheers


CPU: Intel i5-2400 Mobo: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z RAM: 8GB G.Skill DDR3 1333MHz GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Tri-X Case Corsair Obsidian Series 350D PSU: EVGA 500w 80+ Certified

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP

@TheSLSAMG what about this, which I found in colonel_mortis's troubleshooting guide.

 

If you can't boot into windows at all: 

  • Get and boot off your Windows installation disk
  • Enter your language and keyboard layout
  • Click "Repair my computer" (I think it's at the bottom of the window)
  • Open command prompt
  • type the following:

  • diskpart list disk
  • Find the disk which you believe to be corrupt based on the size.
  • Type:
    select disk <the disk number from step 6>exitchkdsk /F /R
  • You may have to restart the computer for it to run.

CPU: Intel i5-2400 Mobo: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z RAM: 8GB G.Skill DDR3 1333MHz GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Tri-X Case Corsair Obsidian Series 350D PSU: EVGA 500w 80+ Certified

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

@TheSLSAMG what about this, which I found in colonel_mortis's troubleshooting guide.

 

If you can't boot into windows at all: 

  • Get and boot off your Windows installation disk
  • Enter your language and keyboard layout
  • Click "Repair my computer" (I think it's at the bottom of the window)
  • Open command prompt
  • type the following:
  • diskpart list disk
  • Find the disk which you believe to be corrupt based on the size.
  • Type:
    select disk <the disk number from step 6>exitchkdsk /F /R
  • You may have to restart the computer for it to run.

 

You have to re-install Windows since you changed the motherboard. The current installation is locked to your old motherboard-you'll probably have to call Microsoft to activate as well. I know this as I had to do the same thing upgrading from my H87M-Pro to my Z97 Sabertooth.


"We also blind small animals with cosmetics.
We do not sell cosmetics. We just blind animals."

 

"Please don't mistake us for Equifax. Those fuckers are evil"

 

This PSA brought to you by Equifacks.
PMSL

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

@TheSLSAMG what about this, which I found in colonel_mortis's troubleshooting guide.

 

If you can't boot into windows at all: 

  • Get and boot off your Windows installation disk
  • Enter your language and keyboard layout
  • Click "Repair my computer" (I think it's at the bottom of the window)
  • Open command prompt
  • type the following:
  • diskpart list disk
  • Find the disk which you believe to be corrupt based on the size.
  • Type:
    select disk <the disk number from step 6>exitchkdsk /F /R
  • You may have to restart the computer for it to run.

 

There's no reason why you shouldn't give it a shot. If it works, great. If not, you've still got a backup plan.


The Desktops

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X | RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 | Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero | Storage: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, 1.2TB Fusion ioDrive2, 3x1TB HDDs | GPU: GTX 1080 Strix O8G | Cooling: 2x240mm AIO + NZXT Kraken G12 | Case: Cooler Master NR600 | PSU: EVGA GS 550W

Secondary Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X | RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200 | Motherboard: ASUS Prime X470-Pro | Storage: 256GB Crucial MX100 | GPU: GTX 970 Strix | Cooling: Reeven Ouranos + Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 240 (GPU) | Case: Fractal Design Meshify C TG | PSU: Corsair CX550M

Tertiary Rig: CPU: Intel Xeon X5687 | RAM: 12GB (3x4GB) DDR3-1600 | Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-Premium | Storage: 240GB SanDisk SSD | GPU: GTX 560 2GB (with GTX 770 TF cooler) | Cooling: 360mm Chinese Open Loop | Case: Open Bench (for now) | PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700W

Oculus Rift CV1: 2x Sensors


Apple Corner

MacBook Pro (Early 2015, A1502) 13": CPU: Intel Core i5-5257U | RAM: 16GB DDR3-1867 | Storage: 256GB SM0256G SSD | GPU: Intel Iris 6100 | iPhone XS Max 64GB (Space Grey) | Apple Watch Series 2 (42mm) | AirPods (2nd Generation)

Other Assorted Tech

Nintendo Switch (Gray, HAC-001) with modded Joy-Cons (Blue housings and D-Pad) | Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer | PS4 Fat | PS Vita PCH-1000 (Henkaku 3.60 CFW)

Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to re-install Windows since you changed the motherboard. The current installation is locked to your old motherboard-you'll probably have to call Microsoft to activate as well. I know this as I had to do the same thing upgrading from my H87M-Pro to my Z97 Sabertooth.

 

Not even close to true, its recommended you reinstall winows after a new mobo but its not required at all.

 

OP it sounds like you're simply running a different SATA mode on your new board than your old board.

 

Try booting into safemode, running regedit then, navigate to the following registry keys and change their Start DWORD value to a 0 (ZERO), do any/all of them which exist.

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\msahciHKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\pciideHKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\iaStorV

then reboot and Windows should auto configure itself to your new boards SATA mode and work as normal.

 

http://www.askvg.com/how-to-change-sata-hard-disk-mode-from-ide-to-ahci-raid-in-bios-after-installing-windows/


Main Rig:-

Ryzen 7 3800X | Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming | 16GB Team Group Dark Pro 3600Mhz | Corsair MP600 1TB PCIe Gen 4 | Sapphire 5700 XT Pulse | Corsair H115i Platinum | WD Black 1TB | WD Green 4TB | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W | Asus TUF GT501 | Samsung C27HG70 1440p 144hz HDR FreeSync 2 | Windows 10 Pro X64 |

 

Server:-

Intel NUC running Server 2019 + Synology DSM218+ with 2 x 4TB Toshiba NAS Ready HDDs (RAID0)

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP

Obviously your machine isn't fried, it's POSTing. I think it's best if you do a clean install, it seems like the current install is broken. Connect the drive to another computer, pull everything off and then do the following.

 

Try changing your SSD from GPT to MBR by hitting SHIFT+F10 while in the Windows installer and typing the following:

 

diskpart

list disk

select disk (whichever number represents your SSD)

clean (will erase partitions and data)

format fs=ntfs

convert mbr

exit

exit

 

And then you should be fine. If not, I'd suggest using Darik's Boot and Nuke on your drive to completely wipe it, then install Windows through the installer.

 

That worked, and since I only store stuff on my HDD, I didn't lose anything except like Google Chrome and Steam

 

Thanks


CPU: Intel i5-2400 Mobo: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z RAM: 8GB G.Skill DDR3 1333MHz GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Tri-X Case Corsair Obsidian Series 350D PSU: EVGA 500w 80+ Certified

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not even close to true, its recommended you reinstall winows after a new mobo but its not required at all.

 

OP it sounds like you're simply running a different SATA mode on your new board than your old board.

 

Try booting into safemode, running regedit then, navigate to the following registry keys and change their Start DWORD value to a 0 (ZERO), do any/all of them which exist.

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\msahciHKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\pciideHKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\iaStorV

then reboot and Windows should auto configure itself to your new boards SATA mode and work as normal.

 

http://www.askvg.com/how-to-change-sata-hard-disk-mode-from-ide-to-ahci-raid-in-bios-after-installing-windows/

Look, I've changed my motherboards around a lot-and that's exactly what happens. Windows detects that its been moved to a new computer-which could happen as well if you clone the HDD-and once it detects that its not running on the original motherboard it starts throwing bluescreens. There is a reason for Windows refusing to Activate on any computer that isn't the original.


"We also blind small animals with cosmetics.
We do not sell cosmetics. We just blind animals."

 

"Please don't mistake us for Equifax. Those fuckers are evil"

 

This PSA brought to you by Equifacks.
PMSL

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Newegg

×