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How to cook a motherboard

Today I had the pleasure of working on my PC's little sister. 

My buddy had noticed that his PC ran hotter than it used to (47°C idle vs the normal 38), so we figured it was time to swap out his noisy old Cooler Master V8 for my spare one. 

 

I took the old cooler off and immediately noticed that something about the retention bracket was off.  Instead of chrome, it was gold, blue and purple. 

 

IMG_20150727_101054m.jpg.b13c3e33e1bb8806857c329985370b0f.jpg

 

Further inspection showed that several of the SFC inductors had changed colour too. 

Normally they all have this light bronze colour (like the ones next to the CPU socket in the pics above). 

However some had a darker top with blue edges (see the one just above the 24-pin) whereas on others the tops had completely turned blue and purple (see the one next to the reset button)

 

IMG_20150727_101015m.jpg.ac51d525e4eea83bc9c5c84f632e9bfb.jpg

 

Also the heatpipe that connects the dragon-shaped heatsinks around the CPU is blue in several places whereas mine is chrome.

 

 

 

 

 

Eventually we figured out what happened.

 

While he was in hospital, new windows were being placed at his apartment.  To protect it from dust, his GF decided to completely cover the PC with a thick blanket ... while it was running.

According to her cousin the PC was beeping, so due to the lack of airflow the air inside the case must have been hot enough to trigger the 70°C alarm on at least one of the fan controller's sensors (placed at various points in the case to measure air temperature). 

Mind you, that didn't make anyone do anything about the situation, they just didn't figure out that the beeping might have indicated that something was wrong.

 

I don't know if it eventually went into thermal shutdown, but I wouldn't be surprised if it did.  I was just too baffled to even ask if it stopped on its own or continued to beep until they lifted the blanket.

EDIT : apparently it beeped for an hour and a half and then shut itself down.

 

 

 

 

 

As for the i5-2500 CPU, it didn't seem to suffer.  It was running a 500MHz OC (3.8GHz @ 1.336V) and still runs that just fine.  No stability issues during the short test I ran. 

I did have a hell of a time cleaning it up though, the old thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) had turned into a hard sticky crust.  Seeing as I only installed the cooler 2 years earlier, I suspect that this has more to do with the heat than it did with old age.

 

To give you an idea how hot it got, this is the stripped-down V8 cooler.  Even the cooling fins started to change colour, as did the cooler's base.

 

IMG_20150727_130418m.jpg.1a66d1c5bdb5a2b633ec9dcba0680a48.jpg

 

Somehow the entire PC still works perfectly fine and after re-applying thermal paste the temps went back to normal.  

I did advise him to turn it off at night from now on though.  Not sure if this can be trusted anymore for 24/7 operation while unattended. 

Actually I'm still not sure if it can be trusted at all.

 

 

 

 

 

Moral of the story : If you have to go to hospital for a while, get a qualified PC-sitter.  And make sure your other half doesn't have access to your gaming rig.

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Well that's prove the components are high-quality ones!

 

It looks a bit odd, but if it works, well just stick with it. I won't be too bothered about it. 

If you want my attention, quote meh! D: or just stick an @samcool55 in your post :3

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Looks kinda cool tbh. Titanium retention brackets should be sold. 

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That is insane. I can't believe firstly that it got hot enough in there to patina the metal, second that it still works............ It would take A LOT of heat or electricity to do that, and over a decently long period of time. I am shocked it still works, and even more shocked it seems stable.

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It's amazing how much technology has changed in a cpu. If this was during the AMD Athlon XP days, that cpu will be long fried, but today's cpu, it can down clock itself as low as possible to protect itself to prevent it from overheating. To actually turn off, it probably went through tremendous amount of heat, that even down clocking to its lowest clock wasn't enough, so it forced itself to go off.

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Interesting. My only guess is when your cpu is 70*C, you can leave your hand on the cpu cooler and it hardly feels warm. With no moving air, the cpu cooler must of got just as hot as the cpu. Surprised there's no parts not meant to run that hot died

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Well that's prove the components are high-quality ones!

 

Indeed.  If anyone still wonders if MSI boards are durable, this should answer it.

 

 

 

 

That is insane. I can't believe firstly that it got hot enough in there to patina the metal, second that it still works............ It would take A LOT of heat or electricity to do that, and over a decently long period of time. I am shocked it still works, and even more shocked it seems stable.

 

Oh yeah, this must have taken quite some time.  Seeing as every intake and exit had been covered, the PC must have been circulating the air that was inside the case.  If that air reaches 70+°C, even the best cooler won't be able to do much anymore.  

 

I've been building and maintaining PCs for well over a decade and I've never seen anything like this.  I run the same motherboard in my own PC, and TBH I'm feeling happy about my choice of parts now. 

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Today I had the pleasure of working on my PC's little sister. 

My buddy had noticed that his PC ran hotter than it used to (47°C idle vs the normal 38), so we figured it was time to swap out his noisy old Cooler Master V8 for my spare one. 

 

I took the old cooler off and immediately noticed that something about the retention bracket was off.  Instead of chrome, it was gold, blue and purple. 

 

attachicon.gifBlack_Death_socket1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifBlack_death_socket3.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Further inspection showed that several of the SFC inductors had changed colour too. 

Normally they all have this light bronze colour (like the ones next to the CPU socket in the pics above). 

However some had a darker top with blue edges (see the one just above the 24-pin) whereas on others the tops had completely turned blue and purple (see the one next to the reset button)

 

attachicon.gifBlack_death_SFC1.jpg

 

Also the heatpipe that connects the dragon-shaped heatsinks around the CPU is blue in several places whereas mine is chrome.

 

 

 

 

 

Eventually we figured out what happened.

 

While he was in hospital, new windows were being placed at his apartment.  To protect it from dust, his GF decided to completely cover the PC with a thick blanket ... while it was running.

According to her cousin the PC was beeping, so due to the lack of airflow the air inside the case must have been hot enough to trigger the 70°C alarm on at least one of the fan controller's sensors (placed at various points in the case to measure air temperature). 

Mind you, that didn't make anyone do anything about the situation, they just didn't figure out that the beeping might have indicated that something was wrong.

I don't know if it eventually went into thermal shutdown, but I wouldn't be surprised if it did.  I was just too baffled to even ask if it stopped on its own or continued to beep until they lifted the blanket.

 

 

 

 

 

As for the i5-2500 CPU, it didn't seem to suffer.  It was running a 500MHz OC (3.8GHz @ 1.336V) and still runs that just fine.  No stability issues during the short test I ran. 

I did have a hell of a time cleaning it up though, the old thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) had turned into a hard sticky crust.  Seeing as I only installed the cooler 2 years earlier, I suspect that this has more to do with the heat than it did with old age.

 

To give you an idea how hot it got, this is the stripped-down V8 cooler.  Even the cooling fins started to change colour, as did the cooler's base.

 

attachicon.gifBlack_Death_cooler1.jpg

 

Somehow the entire PC still works perfectly fine and after re-applying thermal paste the temps went back to normal.  

I did advise him to turn it off at night from now on though.  Not sure if this can be trusted anymore for 24/7 operation while unattended. 

Actually I'm still not sure if it can be trusted at all.

 

 

 

 

 

Moral of the story : If you have to go to hospital for a while, get a qualified PC-sitter.  And make sure your other half doesn't have access to your gaming rig.

Poor PC! D:

Lake-V-X6-10600 (Gaming PC)

R23 score MC: 9190pts | R23 score SC: 1302pts

R20 score MC: 3529cb | R20 score SC: 506cb

Spoiler

Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo Black / Case Fan(s) Front: Noctua NF-A14 ULN 140mm Premium Fans / Case Fan(s) Rear: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (red) / Case Fan(s) Side: Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX 60mm Premium Fan / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo / CPU: Intel Core i5-10600, 6-cores, 12-threads, 4.4/4.8GHz, 13,5MB cache (Intel 14nm++ FinFET) / Display: ASUS 24" LED VN247H (67Hz OC) 1920x1080p / GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX Vega 56 Gaming OC @1501MHz (Samsung 14nm FinFET) / Keyboard: Logitech Desktop K120 (Nordic) / Motherboard: ASUS PRIME B460 PLUS, Socket-LGA1200 / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 850W / RAM A1, A2, B1 & B2: DDR4-2666MHz CL13-15-15-15-35-1T "Samsung 8Gbit C-Die" (4x8GB) / Operating System: Windows 10 Home / Sound: Zombee Z300 / Storage 1 & 2: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD / Storage 3: Seagate® Barracuda 2TB HDD / Storage 4: Seagate® Desktop 2TB SSHD / Storage 5: Crucial P1 1000GB M.2 SSD/ Storage 6: Western Digital WD7500BPKX 2.5" HDD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN851N 11n Wireless Adapter (Qualcomm Atheros)

Zen-II-X6-3600+ (Gaming PC)

R23 score MC: 9893pts | R23 score SC: 1248pts @4.2GHz

R23 score MC: 10151pts | R23 score SC: 1287pts @4.3GHz

R20 score MC: 3688cb | R20 score SC: 489cb

Spoiler

Case: Medion Micro-ATX Case / Case Fan Front: SUNON MagLev PF70251VX-Q000-S99 70mm / Case Fan Rear: Fanner Tech(Shen Zhen)Co.,LTD. 80mm (Purple) / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: AMD Near-silent 125w Thermal Solution / CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600, 6-cores, 12-threads, 4.2/4.2GHz, 35MB cache (T.S.M.C. 7nm FinFET) / Display: HP 24" L2445w (64Hz OC) 1920x1200 / GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GD5 OC "Afterburner" @1450MHz (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 6600 XT DUAL OC RDNA2 32CUs @2607MHz (T.S.M.C. 7nm FinFET) / Keyboard: HP KB-0316 PS/2 (Nordic) / Motherboard: ASRock B450M Pro4, Socket-AM4 / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 550W / RAM A2 & B2: DDR4-3600MHz CL16-18-8-19-37-1T "SK Hynix 8Gbit CJR" (2x16GB) / Operating System: Windows 10 Home / Sound 1: Zombee Z500 / Sound 2: Logitech Stereo Speakers S-150 / Storage 1 & 2: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD / Storage 3: Western Digital My Passport 2.5" 2TB HDD / Storage 4: Western Digital Elements Desktop 2TB HDD / Storage 5: Kingston A2000 1TB M.2 NVME SSD / Wi-fi & Bluetooth: ASUS PCE-AC55BT Wireless Adapter (Intel)

Vishera-X8-9370 | R20 score MC: 1476cb

Spoiler

Case: Cooler Master HAF XB Evo Black / Case Fan(s) Front: Noctua NF-A14 ULN 140mm Premium Fans / Case Fan(s) Rear: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (red) / Case Fan(s) Side: Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX 60mm Premium Fan / Case Fan VRM: SUNON MagLev KDE1209PTV3 92mm / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo / CPU: AMD FX-8370 (Base: @4.4GHz | Turbo: @4.7GHz) Black Edition Eight-Core (Global Foundries 32nm) / Display: ASUS 24" LED VN247H (67Hz OC) 1920x1080p / GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GD5 OC "Afterburner" @1450MHz (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX Vega 56 Gaming OC @1501MHz (Samsung 14nm FinFET) / Keyboard: Logitech Desktop K120 (Nordic) / Motherboard: MSI 970 GAMING, Socket-AM3+ / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 850W PSU / RAM 1, 2, 3 & 4: Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1866MHz CL8-10-10-28-37-2T (4x4GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Windows 10 Home / Sound: Zombee Z300 / Storage 1: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD (x2) / Storage 2: Seagate® Barracuda 2TB HDD / Storage 3: Seagate® Desktop 2TB SSHD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN951N 11n Wireless Adapter

Godavari-X4-880K | R20 score MC: 810cb

Spoiler

Case: Medion Micro-ATX Case / Case Fan Front: SUNON MagLev PF70251VX-Q000-S99 70mm / Case Fan Rear: Fanner Tech(Shen Zhen)Co.,LTD. 80mm (Purple) / Controller: Sony Dualshock 4 Wireless (DS4Windows) / Cooler: AMD Near-silent 95w Thermal Solution / Cooler: AMD Near-silent 125w Thermal Solution / CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860K Black Edition Elite Quad-Core (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / CPU: AMD Athlon X4 880K Black Edition Elite Quad-Core (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Display: HP 19" Flat Panel L1940 (75Hz) 1280x1024 / GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SuperSC 2GB (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GD5 OC "Afterburner" @1450MHz (T.S.M.C. 28nm) / Keyboard: HP KB-0316 PS/2 (Nordic) / Motherboard: MSI A78M-E45 V2, Socket-FM2+ / Mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014 / PCI-E: ASRock USB 3.1/A+C (PCI Express x4) / PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2, 550W PSU / RAM 1, 2, 3 & 4: SK hynix DDR3-1866MHz CL9-10-11-27-40 (4x4GB) 16.38GB / Operating System 1: Ubuntu Gnome 16.04 LTS (Xenial Xerus) / Operating System 2: Windows 10 Home / Sound 1: Zombee Z500 / Sound 2: Logitech Stereo Speakers S-150 / Storage 1: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD (x2) / Storage 2: Western Digital My Passport 2.5" 2TB HDD / Storage 3: Western Digital Elements Desktop 2TB HDD / Wi-fi: TP-Link TL-WN851N 11n Wireless Adapter

Acer Aspire 7738G custom (changed CPU, GPU & Storage)
Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo P8600, 2-cores, 2-threads, 2.4GHz, 3MB cache (Intel 45nm) / GPU: ATi Radeon HD 4570 515MB DDR2 (T.S.M.C. 55nm) / RAM: DDR2-1066MHz CL7-7-7-20-1T (2x2GB) / Operating System: Windows 10 Home / Storage: Crucial BX500 480GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5" SSD

Complete portable device SoC history:

Spoiler
Apple A4 - Apple iPod touch (4th generation)
Apple A5 - Apple iPod touch (5th generation)
Apple A9 - Apple iPhone 6s Plus
HiSilicon Kirin 810 (T.S.M.C. 7nm) - Huawei P40 Lite / Huawei nova 7i
Mediatek MT2601 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - TicWatch E
Mediatek MT6580 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - TECNO Spark 2 (1GB RAM)
Mediatek MT6592M (T.S.M.C 28nm) - my|phone my32 (orange)
Mediatek MT6592M (T.S.M.C 28nm) - my|phone my32 (yellow)
Mediatek MT6735 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - HMD Nokia 3 Dual SIM
Mediatek MT6737 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - Cherry Mobile Flare S6
Mediatek MT6739 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - my|phone myX8 (blue)
Mediatek MT6739 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - my|phone myX8 (gold)
Mediatek MT6750 (T.S.M.C 28nm) - honor 6C Pro / honor V9 Play
Mediatek MT6765 (T.S.M.C 12nm) - TECNO Pouvoir 3 Plus
Mediatek MT6797D (T.S.M.C 20nm) - my|phone Brown Tab 1
Qualcomm MSM8926 (T.S.M.C. 28nm) - Microsoft Lumia 640 LTE
Qualcomm MSM8974AA (T.S.M.C. 28nm) - Blackberry Passport
Qualcomm SDM710 (Samsung 10nm) - Oppo Realme 3 Pro

 

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Update time : I just spoke to the cousin, and apparently it beeped for an hour and a half before it eventually turned itself off. 

 

No idea what the thermal shutdown temp of an i5-2500 is, but I'm guessing it's more than the 72.6°C that Intel lists as max operating temp. 

For the alarm to go off, the air temperature inside the case needed to be over 70°C.  For the metal to turn blue ... well ... no idea how much heat you need for that really. 

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Update time : I just spoke to the cousin, and apparently it beeped for an hour and a half before it eventually turned itself off.

No idea what the thermal shutdown temp of an i5-2500 is, but I'm guessing it's more than the 72.6°C that Intel lists as max operating temp.

For the alarm to go off, the air temperature inside the case needed to be over 70°C. For the metal to turn blue ... well ... no idea how much heat you need for that really.

Send pics to msi and ask. They can also use your pic to show how durable their boards are.

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anybody need a girlfriend that can cook? :D

 

If only she could cook something other than computers ...

 

LOL @ that username.  Hi J.J. !   How's that scorching hot thing doing today? I mean the PC, not the GF.  :P

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@captain_Chaos: That's a fantastic anecdote... Maybe we should campaign to have primary school curriculi all over the world amended though, to teach everyone as early in their lives as possible that a beeping PC should be shut down immediately...

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Update time : I just spoke to the cousin, and apparently it beeped for an hour and a half before it eventually turned itself off. 

 

No idea what the thermal shutdown temp of an i5-2500 is, but I'm guessing it's more than the 72.6°C that Intel lists as max operating temp. 

For the alarm to go off, the air temperature inside the case needed to be over 70°C.  For the metal to turn blue ... well ... no idea how much heat you need for that really. 

That's the TCase temperature. Or the maximum allowed temperature at the IHS. 

 

A i5-2500 has a shutdown temperature of 98C but it can be set lower through some motherboards i think. 

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@Captain Chaos : That's a fantastic anecdote... Maybe we should campaign to have primary school curriculi all over the world amended though, to teach everyone as early in their lives as possible that a beeping PC should be shut down immediately...

 

Common sense should suffice really, but yeah, something like that would be a good idea. 

This particular incident could have ended really bad if one of the components would have failed.  Thick blanket, thick wallpaper, wooden desk and floor ... that's an inferno waiting to happen.

 

Personally I'd campaign for all motherboards to have an alarm built in and active by default.  There's no such function on the MSI board J.J. and myself use. 

In J.J.'s PC it was the fan controller (Scythe Kaze Master Flat) that sounded its alarm.  My PC wouldn't give any such clues. 

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Personally I'd campaign for all motherboards to have an alarm built in and active by default.  There's no such function on the MSI board J.J. and myself use. 

In J.J.'s PC it was the fan controller (Scythe Kaze Master Flat) that sounded its alarm.  My PC wouldn't give any such clues. 

 

Most motherboards do actually have such an alarm, but you can only hear it if you plug a motherboard speaker into it. To be honest, I don't quite understand why we ever went to detachable motherboard speakers though, because having them integrated can't cost that much, and it's a big safety feature.

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HTPC "Keira" -- AMD Sempron 2650 • MSI AM1I • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury DDR3 1866 8GB • ASUS ENGTX 560Ti • Corsair SF450 • Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV Shift --

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Most motherboards do actually have such an alarm, but you can only hear it if you plug a motherboard speaker into it. To be honest, I don't quite understand why we ever went to detachable motherboard speakers though, because having them integrated can't cost that much, and it's a big safety feature.

not having a stupid girlfriend who covers your pc while its on is an even better safety feature..... like chaose said before..  its only common sence NOT to cover a powerd electronic device like that.... she also coverd up my flatscreen tv, luckaly the tv was turned off.... 

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  • 1 month later...

lol well know you have a case hardened mobo that has cool colors :P atleats its ok, and dam 70 c air temp that an oven, surprised she didnt just throw some chicken in there for supper 

Spoiler

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and a car thread ! 

 

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lol well know you have a case hardened mobo that has cool colors :P atleats its ok, and dam 70 c air temp that an oven, surprised she didnt just throw some chicken in there for supper 

 

Oh, 70°C was only the point where the alarm started to go off.  Seeing as the CPU shuts down at 98°C, we suspect that the case temperature must have gotten above 90.

 

 

 

Seeing as I'm writing here, I'll mention that we did find one issue since the incident. 

The CPU phase LEDs, which we had turned off, come on every time you restart the PC.  We eventually found out that all the BIOS settings are lost whenever you shut it down. 

It looks like the CMOS battery didn't survive the heat, so I'll be replacing that the next time I'm working on that PC (which should be soon).

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