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Custom built Phantom Keyboard

the pokemon kid

Hey guys,

 

Introduction
Well here is a build log for a keyboard! It isn't going to be a very long build log simply because there isn't a huge amount of steps to put one together. However I will be going through this in some details so that there is a guide for anyone who wants to build their own! 

 

Parts

Board: Phantom TLK PCB

Controller: Teensy 2.0 Controller

Case: Vortex Aluminium case

Diodes: x100 Fairchild Semiconductors - 1N4148 

Resistors: Resistors for 5V LED's

LED: 3.2v Green LED's

Switches: Cherry MX Greens, Browns, Clears and Blues

Keycaps: WASD dark grey and black keycap set

 

Description of steps

1) Place all diodes onto PCB

2) Solder one side of each Diode to hold them in place

3) Flip the PCB and chop all the prongs down 

4) Solder both sides of all diodes into place.

5) Place the Phantom PCB flat on a table and then place the Teensy controller in its spot. Then use the cut off prongs from the diodes to fit through the holes. This will make them sit flush on the opposite side of the board once they are soldered in. Solder all the needed pins onto the Teensy controller (This doesn't need to be done if yours was pre attached). Then chop the remainder of the pins sticking out the top of the Teensy controller.

6) Flip the board over with the Teensy controller and solder it onto the PCB.

7) Do a quick continuity check on the board by getting a multimeter and testing a diodes connection on the Teensy controller.

8) Plug the Teensy controller into your computer and download the software for it on your computer.

9) Flash the firmware of the teensy controller to your preferred layout. These can be found here: https://github.com/BathroomEpiphanies/AVR-Keyboard

10) Check all the key spots on the board by shorting both sides of the switch. Use a piece of keyboard testing software to make sure that all they keys work. If they dont, check the soldering of the teensy and then if still not you may have a dead Diode. This can be swapped out.

11) solder in the resistors and the LEDS into their places. Make sure to use the LED standoffs to get the right height for these. You may also want to glue the standoffs in place to give them better stability.

12) Take the keyboard plate and place a few of the switches in place. Then place the PCB into its spot and soldered the switches in. This is to mainly give it some structure to hold itself up.

13) Place the remaining switches into place and solder them in.

14) Install the cable into Teensy controller and place the finished PCB into the case. 

15) Add all the keycaps and then enjoy your new keyboard!

 

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The Phantom PCB in white!

16374249373_c128261515_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

The different switches for the board

16968368946_67d8355a2b_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

The Vortex Aluminium case in silver

16994301865_d48cba15ba_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

The two parts of the Vortex case

16992905232_882ba8bc1f_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

The PCB with all the diodes installed onto it

16786895007_794c710043_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Some closeup shots of the soldered diodes

16806521608_1319b30336_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

The Teensy controller soldered into place

16992845982_bd9bf5427b_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard by Mat Teague, on Flickr

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I guess i will follow it here as well lol

@TheProfosist did a build log on here before but i dont know if anyone else has done any other keyboard builds and i have just been to lazy to make a thread for mine but i may do that for my next projects

here is a link to theprofosist thread if you want to check it out

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/125845-the-hid-liberator/

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Part two of the build!

 

I got the Keyboard plate through and I have prepped and given it a coat of primer!

16436333073_f279543313_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard Part 2 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Now a coat of Satin silver!

17030477736_9b302bce52_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard Part 2 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Here is a birds eye shot of the keyboard and its layout!

17055632081_f8bc6973f8_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard Part 2 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Here is a nice side shot of the aluminium case and the switch layout!

17056427765_6ab9c080d6_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard Part 2 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

A nice tasty closeup of the switches!

16868620318_d1c3f53040_z.jpg

Custom Phantom Keyboard Part 2 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Some more photos of the finished board to come! Still waiting on the stabilisers!

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Looks good. When I see your switch layouts I always think of a switch tester boards. Also to me it seems odd that you would have tactile and clicky mixed where you will used them a lot together.

I assume you must be using costar stabilizers if not I hope you didn't solder the switches in where you need cherry stabilizers

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Looks good. When I see your switch layouts I always think of a switch tester boards. Also to me it seems odd that you would have tactile and clicky mixed where you will used them a lot together.

I assume you must be using costar stabilizers if not I hope you didn't solder the switches in where you need cherry stabilizers

Thanks man! Really it is a layout which suits my lazy typing style. I find that I can be quite heavy on the keyboard and wanted a clear difference between the alpha numeric and the modifiers.. Pun intended! (Mainly that they are harder to hit). I put clicky switches in so that I could audibly hear when those switches were being hit (Enter, Backspace, Windows buttons and F keys.). I quite like knowing how many times I hit enter or backspace so these keys fit my need. It seams a weird mix but its just right for me :D

 

I have got cherry stabilisers but those switches aren't soldered in yet. I realised this after the first load of photos were taken and I had to desolder some of them! Hopefully they will be here in the next few days or so, with the keycaps!

 

I also bought myself another fake keycap from K3KC and I have just sprayed it matt black! It is looking awesome right now!

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I never knew that you could do this. 

 

What was the total cost ??

 

It looks amazing by the way.

Nothing to see here - move along.

 

 

 

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I never knew that you could do this. 

 

What was the total cost ??

 

It looks amazing by the way.

It was:

 

Case - $130

PCB - $30~

Controller - $30~

Switches - £50~

Diodes - £13

Aluminium Plate - £33 delivered

Soldering iron - £15

Keycaps - $40~

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It was:

 

Case - $130

PCB - $30~

Controller - $30~

Switches - £50~

Diodes - £13

Aluminium Plate - £33 delivered

Soldering iron - £15

Keycaps - $40~

Pounds and dollar. That's confusing... What's the total price?

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Pounds and dollar. That's confusing... What's the total price?

Using Googles currency converter:

 

Case - £80~

PCB - £20~

Controller - £20~

Switches - £50~

Diodes - £13~

Aluminium Plate - £33 delivered

Soldering iron - £15

Keycaps - £25~

 

Total being: £253~

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Total being: £253~

 

 

Holy balls.

Nothing to see here - move along.

 

 

 

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Total being: £253~

 

 

Holy balls.

 

 

It is a bit more than a normal mechanical board but you can save some money, I.e not using a Aluminium casing... You can get a plastic one from GON for like £30ish. The switches could of been cheaper if I went for all one type of switch, However I bought some for a future build too...

 

You could always buy a mechanical board, open it up, desolder some of the switches and put some new ones into it... Thats what I did with my Filco...

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It is a bit more than a normal mechanical board but you can save some money, I.e not using a Aluminium casing... You can get a plastic one from GON for like £30ish. The switches could of been cheaper if I went for all one type of switch, However I bought some for a future build too...

 

You could always buy a mechanical board, open it up, desolder some of the switches and put some new ones into it... Thats what I did with my Filco...

i think cheap diy mechinical keyboards are just a gate way to spend more on the next one anyways so it is all good lol

I spent $50 making my keyboard and $100 making my numpad lol

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(shut up and take my money)

 

That keyboard makes my Ducky shine 69 fire a little sad.

I really like that keyboard is coming along.  Any chance I can buy one from you?

 

I love my shine 69, but the only reason I don't like the regular MX Brown shine 4 (and I have one, and TWO shine 69 fire's) is because I don't want MX Browns on the space and shift.  It make them too easy to press accidentally.

The blues work great on the shine 69, but I can see the clears being even better (and the green on the space bar is good too, although my mx blue switch spacebar is crisp and clean).

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(shut up and take my money)

 

That keyboard makes my Ducky shine 69 fire a little sad.

I really like that keyboard is coming along.  Any chance I can buy one from you?

 

I love my shine 69, but the only reason I don't like the regular MX Brown shine 4 (and I have one, and TWO shine 69 fire's) is because I don't want MX Browns on the space and shift.  It make them too easy to press accidentally.

The blues work great on the shine 69, but I can see the clears being even better (and the green on the space bar is good too, although my mx blue switch spacebar is crisp and clean).

To be honest, I am not looking to create these for others. The keyboard itself has cost me a lot to build and be delivered. Really I cant be bothered with the hassle of waiting for everything and then providing aftercare for it. Too much hassle!

Also, building it yourself is a lot easier than you think. This video literally tells you how to build it, front to back... Also, it more than likely be cheaper for you if you live in the US than it was for me. I was having to get everything delivered to the UK and had to pay customs charges for it all.

 

 

Obviously, the other option is what I did with my Filco which was to desolder some of the switches and change them out for others. It is a lot easier than it sounds again...

 

 

I am going to follow this because I am thinking of making on myself.

Good good! The main reason it has taken so long to make is because everything is coming from the US...

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i think cheap diy mechinical keyboards are just a gate way to spend more on the next one anyways so it is all good lol

I spent $50 making my keyboard and $100 making my numpad lol

Woah! 50 dollars for the keyboard? How?!

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Woah! 50 dollars for the keyboard? How?!

magic also known as starting with a used keyboard for switches, plate and keycaps and making my own case for it and hand wiring the matrix so there is no pcb connecting the switches

it started as this

8cIy1RD.jpg

and ended as this

0oNly33.jpg

album of imaged from my keyboard and numpad build

http://imgur.com/a/Nf5re

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If you are going to use an Acrylic housing I would just buy the GON TKL PCB. At least then you will know there is 100% compatibility!

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If you are going to use an Acrylic housing I would just buy the GON TKL PCB. At least then you will know there is 100% compatibility!

Ok will do!

 

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Well... Here is the final images of the keyboard! I am so happy with the keyboard! It is an absolute tank of a keyboard!

 

Black and dark grey in an ISO layout!

16514133784_08ebf2ac82_z.jpg

Phantom Custom keyboard Part 3 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

17136541115_6389144226_z.jpg

Phantom Custom keyboard Part 3 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Sprayed him black to match the build!

17110589486_69a396639a_z.jpg

Phantom Custom keyboard Part 3 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

16929122917_6ea243e031_z.jpg

Phantom Custom keyboard Part 3 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Representing!

16948963430_6fc2ae8fdc_z.jpg

Phantom Custom keyboard Part 3 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

WASD have done a sick job as usual!

16514071394_5d1f5d6c66_z.jpg

Phantom Custom keyboard Part 3 by Mat Teague, on Flickr

 

Thanks for watching the build log! TPK out!

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