Guide: How to Install Window's the Right Way!

[JefferyD90]

overloss123, on 24 Oct 2015 - 10:33 PM, said:

I have followed you guide, and when i get to the install windows button i press it and it asks for a products key HELP

You HAVE to have a product key.  You might have a option to "skip" this, which will give you 30 days  to produce the product key, otherwise you will need to purchase a copy of Windows.

[JefferyD90]

So I have a few issues with this. I will comment my thoughts/opinions into this quote in Orange for your convenience. 

 

 

Pretty well written. Needs a few tweaks here and there but a good idea in all.

Much better than the "put in installation media and follow the prompts" that you normally see.

Thank you very much for the critique.  I shall take it into consideration, but I do want to address a few issues.

 

First this guide is written for Windows 8 and 8.1.  Although 7 and 10 are SO close it is 99% applicable and I feel like MOST people are capable to do a Windows 7 and 10 install with this guide, as a matter of fact, the videos I've done are with Windows 10.  Your comment was to include instructions for Windows Vista.  I also feel like Vista is extremely close.  And I feel like anyone that is installing Vista (just because its so old and outdated) should be a advanced user.  IE: if you cant install Vista you probably shouldn't be using Vista and you should look into a newer OS.

 

I had a vision to include a separate article about "Activation of Windows" and going over the rules, keys, ways to get a key, and what do you need to install.  I was going to include this as a link in this guide.  But, I'll be honest I've been kinda lazy about it.

 

When I wrote this (In Word) the components list was a table, not like you see it now.  But evidentially LTT doesn't support tables.  So it doesn't read as well.  I probably should find a better visualization and clear up the verbiage here.  One thing I wouldn't want to say is "Look through device manager before".  Reason being is because I am assuming that the reader doesn't know how to do this, meaning they probably haven't done this correctly before.  As a matter of fact, it would probably be better for them to go through "Uninstall Programs" to view that list.  This also allows them to review the software and programs they have installed so they can go ahead and get those installers together.  But I really don't want people doing this, I think it is critical that you go to your motherboards support webpage and LOOK to see what is available.  Maybe there is a new driver that you wouldn't have noticed otherwise.  I feel like you should always be going to the source.

 

Please review this verbiage to see if you think it is better:

 

*******************************

 

This step is the longest step, and is the part that most people fail on in some way.  I will personally be providing the steps for my personal computer, which you can see in my profile, while your specific components will vary, you will probably have just as many components and will need to make sure you check your computer for any additional hardware (Printers, network devices, sound cards, and other devices).

 

          Step A: Gathering your parts

 

The key in this step is don’t leave any part untouched.  These are the following components that I have, and while the specific parts will vary, you should probably write down all of your component on a notepad, or piece of paper, this way you can keep track of the components as you go along.

 

*and now I need to figure out a better way to display this "table"*

 

********************************

 

I didn't drive people to AMD or Nvidia, specifically because this guide is meant for compatibility and stability, not performance.

 

I definitely DO NOT want anyone connecting their PC to the internet before they get their drivers installed.  As will be mentioned later, it can cause major issues.  Windows can attempt to install the driver at the same time you're running the installer and that just causes hell, not to include installing drivers while installing updates.  I can NEVER recommend connecting your computer to the internet before your drivers are installed.  As far as setting up the computer, you can ALWAYS log into a Microsoft account at a later time.

 

I have never unplugged a HDD while installing Windows.  It has no added benefit.  If you pay attention then you'll never "wipe" anything.

 

I have considered a way to better describe to people that you probably shouldn't install a OS that isn't supported by the manufacture.  That's something I will have to think on better.

 

Maybe I should explain the idea behind not connecting to the internet better.  You made a point about a older driver version versus newer version, this isn't why I don't recommend it.  I don't recommend it because Windows will AUTOMATICALLY start installing drivers the very second it can connect to the internet.  Additionally, Microsoft shouldn't ever handle the installation of drivers as Microsoft only distributes drivers from OEMs not directly manufactures.  The distribution of drivers by Microsoft is almost a "last resort" kind of deal.  It is meant to get non functioning devices simply functioning, but not working to specification.

 

I can give you another example, I have a PCE-AC68 wireless adapter.  It supports beamforming, but it is managed through the ASUS utility, not the driver.  Microsoft actually installs a Broadcom Wireless chip driver (because this is the chip that ASUS decided to use when assembling this card), once again it gets the device working but not completely functional.  It doesn't install the ASUS driver, which allows for beamforming (among other things).

 

This is the reason why ALL devices should have their own specific drivers installed, not the generic drivers.  I don't ever want to suggest to someone, who if you're using this guide that might not be educated about operating systems, to take the easy way out.  This is a learning experience as well as making sure that ALL components are installed correctly.

[SubTract]

-snip-

 

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. The notification must have gotten lost in the mess of other notification. (Maybe there should be a way to merge notifications about a single thread, Unless there is and I've missed it)

 

First thing I want to clear up. I don't thing you should add steps for vista. Simply change the wording that says this will work with any versions of windows. to something like "will work with any current version of windows."

Just a small correction.

Please review this verbiage to see if you think it is better:

*******************************

This step is the longest step, and is the part that most people fail on in some way.  I will personally be providing the steps for my personal computer, which you can see in my profile, while your specific components will vary, you will probably have just as many components and will need to make sure you check your computer for any additional hardware (Printers, network devices, sound cards, and other devices).

          Step A: Gathering your parts

The key in this step is don’t leave any part untouched.  These are the following components that I have, and while the specific parts will vary, you should probably write down all of your component on a notepad, or piece of paper, this way you can keep track of the components as you go along.

*and now I need to figure out a better way to display this "table"*

********************************

 

Definitely better.

 

I didn't drive people to AMD or Nvidia, specifically because this guide is meant for compatibility and stability, not performance.

 

I can see your point, But you kind of contradict yourself further down.

 

I can give you another example, I have a PCE-AC68 wireless adapter.  It supports beamforming, but it is managed through the ASUS utility, not the driver.  Microsoft actually installs a Broadcom Wireless chip driver (because this is the chip that ASUS decided to use when assembling this card), once again it gets the device working but not completely functional.  It doesn't install the ASUS driver, which allows for beamforming (among other things).

 

In this instance was the broadcom driver not compatible or stable?

You would install the proper driver for performance.

 

I have never unplugged a HDD while installing Windows.  It has no added benefit.  If you pay attention then you'll never "wipe" anything.

Have you ever had two identical drives plugged into a system?, It's an easier mistake to make than you may think.

 

 

I have considered a way to better describe to people that you probably shouldn't install a OS that isn't supported by the manufacture.  That's something I will have to think on better.

  There is a couple of problems I see with this. First is that companies like MS like to go around and tell people that all windows 8/8.1 computers are compatible with windows 10.

Second is some manufacturers are very bad at updating there drivers and websites. So for example you have a Toshiba notebook say a L750-2Y00VS (Don't know if that's an actual model) The website says it only supports windows 7 and 8.1, But the windows 10 upgrade is ready prompt comes up. because MS has detected drivers for all necessary components for your system that are compatible with windows 10. Now it may actually upgrade load the correct drivers and function as intended even though the manufacturer hasn't officially stated its compatible yet. Or it could go the other way and it breaks your system terribly, Even though MS has told you the system was ready for an upgrade.

It's like Schrodingers cat. the system is both alive and dead during the upgrade process. ಠ_ಠ

 

I definitely DO NOT want anyone connecting their PC to the internet before they get their drivers installed.  As will be mentioned later, it can cause major issues.  Windows can attempt to install the driver at the same time you're running the installer and that just causes hell, not to include installing drivers while installing updates.  I can NEVER recommend connecting your computer to the internet before your drivers are installed.  As far as setting up the computer, you can ALWAYS log into a Microsoft account at a later time.

 

Maybe I should explain the idea behind not connecting to the internet better.  You made a point about a older driver version versus newer version, this isn't why I don't recommend it.  I don't recommend it because Windows will AUTOMATICALLY start installing drivers the very second it can connect to the internet.  Additionally, Microsoft shouldn't ever handle the installation of drivers as Microsoft only distributes drivers from OEMs not directly manufactures.  The distribution of drivers by Microsoft is almost a "last resort" kind of deal.  It is meant to get non functioning devices simply functioning, but not working to specification.

 

This is the reason why ALL devices should have their own specific drivers installed, not the generic drivers.  I don't ever want to suggest to someone, who if you're using this guide that might not be educated about operating systems, to take the easy way out.  This is a learning experience as well as making sure that ALL components are installed correctly.

 

I don't think we're going to agree on this.

 

Windows update actually does a lot more than just installing a driver that should work. To be in windows update drivers they have to have passed WHQL testing and also get approved to be rolled out through windows updates.

 

Windows update drivers are more often than not fine, and will work without a problem. Sometimes they won't have a driver or the WU installed one won't do a specific thing, In those cases you may need an actual manufacturer driver. Newer hardware shouldn't have an issue with Windows update drivers.

 

If we were talking about DOS kernel days or even early NT (2000/NT4.0/XP) than I would entirely agree with you. Things now work a lot better than they used to. This will likely continue to improve until windows is chipsetless like Linux, and the kernel can query the HW directly, Then almost all driver issues will disappear. (Yeah I know this is wishful thinking but I've got to be an optimist 1 day a year and you got me on that day)

[JefferyD90]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. The notification must have gotten lost in the mess of other notification. (Maybe there should be a way to merge notifications about a single thread, Unless there is and I've missed it)

 

First thing I want to clear up. I don't thing you should add steps for vista. Simply change the wording that says this will work with any versions of windows. to something like "will work with any current version of windows."

Just a small correction.

Definitely better.

 

I can see your point, But you kind of contradict yourself further down.

 

In this instance was the broadcom driver not compatible or stable?

You would install the proper driver for performance.

 

Have you ever had two identical drives plugged into a system?, It's an easier mistake to make than you may think.

 

  There is a couple of problems I see with this. First is that companies like MS like to go around and tell people that all windows 8/8.1 computers are compatible with windows 10.

Second is some manufacturers are very bad at updating there drivers and websites. So for example you have a Toshiba notebook say a L750-2Y00VS (Don't know if that's an actual model) The website says it only supports windows 7 and 8.1, But the windows 10 upgrade is ready prompt comes up. because MS has detected drivers for all necessary components for your system that are compatible with windows 10. Now it may actually upgrade load the correct drivers and function as intended even though the manufacturer hasn't officially stated its compatible yet. Or it could go the other way and it breaks your system terribly, Even though MS has told you the system was ready for an upgrade.

It's like Schrodingers cat. the system is both alive and dead during the upgrade process. ಠ_ಠ

 

I don't think we're going to agree on this.

 

Windows update actually does a lot more than just installing a driver that should work. To be in windows update drivers they have to have passed WHQL testing and also get approved to be rolled out through windows updates.

 

Windows update drivers are more often than not fine, and will work without a problem. Sometimes they won't have a driver or the WU installed one won't do a specific thing, In those cases you may need an actual manufacturer driver. Newer hardware shouldn't have an issue with Windows update drivers.

 

If we were talking about DOS kernel days or even early NT (2000/NT4.0/XP) than I would entirely agree with you. Things now work a lot better than they used to. This will likely continue to improve until windows is chipsetless like Linux, and the kernel can query the HW directly, Then almost all driver issues will disappear. (Yeah I know this is wishful thinking but I've got to be an optimist 1 day a year and you got me on that day)

The Broadcom driver situation is because the Broadcom chip is a generic driver, not a specific driver.  You should ALWAYS get your driver from the manufacture, they know the exact implementation of the chipsets and can manipulate the driver accordingly to meet the needs.

 

I have had multiple drives installed in my system, but there is no reason for someone to not read what they're doing before they click.  Once again, novice users probably would be better off not unplugging components in their system.

 

As far as the Windows 7/8.1/10 example you gave with the theoretical Toshiba notebook, the point is exactly that.  Don't use a OS that isn't officially supported because you don't know how it will react.  If you're willing to experiment that's great, do whatever you want!  This is for the novice person that is looking to get their OS installed and not have to fight with the small things.  (cause we all know shit can hit the fan when you have that 1 computer out of 100 that just cant take it)

 

Just want you to know about WHQL drivers, they're not always up to date or even stable with that OS.  And I am NOT building a guide for a "more often than not" situation, this is a guide to be all end all.  And the idea of not connecting your computer to the internet isn't because of Windows generic drivers, but because you don't want Windows installing drivers at the same time as you are!  Try installing 2 drivers at the same time and I'll almost guarantee you'll blue screen (unless its something like 2 USB thumb drives).  I dare you to install your audio and video drivers at the same time!  And blue screening when installing drivers is like the worst thing ever.

[SubTract]

The Broadcom driver situation is because the Broadcom chip is a generic driver, not a specific driver.  You should ALWAYS get your driver from the manufacture, they know the exact implementation of the chipsets and can manipulate the driver accordingly to meet the needs.

 

I have had multiple drives installed in my system, but there is no reason for someone to not read what they're doing before they click.  Once again, novice users probably would be better off not unplugging components in their system.

 

As far as the Windows 7/8.1/10 example you gave with the theoretical Toshiba notebook, the point is exactly that.  Don't use a OS that isn't officially supported because you don't know how it will react.  If you're willing to experiment that's great, do whatever you want!  This is for the novice person that is looking to get their OS installed and not have to fight with the small things.  (cause we all know shit can hit the fan when you have that 1 computer out of 100 that just cant take it)

 

Just want you to know about WHQL drivers, they're not always up to date or even stable with that OS.  And I am NOT building a guide for a "more often than not" situation, this is a guide to be all end all.  And the idea of not connecting your computer to the internet isn't because of Windows generic drivers, but because you don't want Windows installing drivers at the same time as you are!  Try installing 2 drivers at the same time and I'll almost guarantee you'll blue screen (unless its something like 2 USB thumb drives).  I dare you to install your audio and video drivers at the same time!  And blue screening when installing drivers is like the worst thing ever.

 

I should probably clear things up a bit. If you can install drivers from the manufacturers website, then yes this is better. But installing drivers from windows update isn't as bad as what you seem to think it is. At times (although not that common) windows update has newer drivers than the manufacturers website. 

 

I'm also not saying to install a non supported OS I'm just saying to the end user it can be quite difficult to tell what is actually supported.

 

I'm not sure you understand what WHQL is. If it is not stable with that OS it will not get WHQL certified. 

 

As for your point about installing drivers at the same time, Well I do it any time it will let me.

Most things use Microsofts installer which will only let you install 1 thing at a time (Including windows update drivers) So if you try to install something else it makes you wait until the other instance has finished. But if it doesn't Then I'll go to town. Haven't had a problem yet. Not saying it can't cause a problem just saying it's certainly possible without causing issues. Back to my point about things working better now than they used to.

 

Windows also won't let you get to the desktop in anything 8 or newer until its finished installing its drivers. So there goes any chance of you installing something else at the same time. the whole "Installing device drivers" screen. Then later the "We're Setting things up for you" screen will both allow the system to install drivers before the user gets a chance to interfere. 

 

Like I said we are just going to have to agree to disagree on the internet thing. 

 

 

 

because you're wrong ;-P

[JefferyD90]

SubTract, on 09 Nov 2015 - 5:06 PM, said:

I should probably clear things up a bit. If you can install drivers from the manufacturers website, then yes this is better. But installing drivers from windows update isn't as bad as what you seem to think it is. At times (although not that common) windows update has newer drivers than the manufacturers website. 

 

I'm also not saying to install a non supported OS I'm just saying to the end user it can be quite difficult to tell what is actually supported.

 

I'm not sure you understand what WHQL is. If it is not stable with that OS it will not get WHQL certified. 

 

As for your point about installing drivers at the same time, Well I do it any time it will let me.

Most things use Microsofts installer which will only let you install 1 thing at a time (Including windows update drivers) So if you try to install something else it makes you wait until the other instance has finished. But if it doesn't Then I'll go to town. Haven't had a problem yet. Not saying it can't cause a problem just saying it's certainly possible without causing issues. Back to my point about things working better now than they used to.

 

Windows also won't let you get to the desktop in anything 8 or newer until its finished installing its drivers. So there goes any chance of you installing something else at the same time. the whole "Installing device drivers" screen. Then later the "We're Setting things up for you" screen will both allow the system to install drivers before the user gets a chance to interfere. 

 

Like I said we are just going to have to agree to disagree on the internet thing. 

 

 

 

because you're wrong ;-P

About WHQL, yes I understand it completely.  It is a "approved" driver that has been designed to simply be COMPATIABLE with the system, it doesn't mean that it performs the best, is the most stable, or even have all the features of the device enabled.  Once again, its not about being harmful itself its about it getting in the way and having the potential to cause complications.  And Windows 8 never says when it is installing drivers.

[Blake]

Thread titled 'how to install windows the right way' shows people how to do it the wrong way...

 

SCCM and/or MDT+WDS is vastly Superior to OP's method, Every re-install I do, backs up all my data to my server, re-installs OS+Apps then updates the system then restores the backup. And I kick it off with a PXE boot, then the entire process is automatic. 

 

In saying that... good work OP.

[JefferyD90]

Blake, on 10 Nov 2015 - 02:17 AM, said:

Thread titled 'how to install windows the right way' shows people how to do it the wrong way...

 

SCCM and/or MDT+WDS is vastly Superior to OP's method, Every re-install I do, backs up all my data to my server, re-installs OS+Apps then updates the system then restores the backup. And I kick it off with a PXE boot, then the entire process is automatic. 

 

In saying that... good work OP.

And you like setting up a SCCM server is easier and will provide fewer discrepancies than doing a standard clean install?  Not only that this guide is meant for EVERYONE not just savvy people.  plz

[Blake]

And you like setting up a SCCM server is easier and will provide fewer discrepancies than doing a standard clean install?  Not only that this guide is meant for EVERYONE not just savvy people.  plz

well, I don't have SCCM setup, just MDT and WDS. But yes, it will have a much fewer discrepancies then a manual install, humans make mistakes, a computer will do exactly what you tell it to do.

 

Need to upgrade to Windows 10? just make another task sequence and it's looks after itself.

 

In saying that, your guide is great for people who don't have a windows server box running in the corner. I would suggest adding a bios config section, I have seen too many people who leave the SATA controller in the default IDE/RAID mode and have the system booting to a legacy bios mode.

[JefferyD90]

Blake, on 10 Nov 2015 - 5:31 PM, said:

well, I don't have SCCM setup, just MDT and WDS. But yes, it will have a much fewer discrepancies then a manual install, humans make mistakes, a computer will do exactly what you tell it to do.

 

Need to upgrade to Windows 10? just make another task sequence and it's looks after itself.

 

In saying that, your guide is great for people who don't have a windows server box running in the corner. I would suggest adding a bios config section, I have seen too many people who leave the SATA controller in the default IDE/RAID mode and have the system booting to a legacy bios mode.

If you follow this guide, you wont make mistakes.  I was considering doing a BIOS config guide as well, one for OEMs and one for off the shelf boards, just haven't gotten around to it yet.  Yea, I love how people think that "I got it to work by using IDE/Legacy mode" and I'm like "No, you got it to function..."  Work=/=function.

[Alir]

Just commenting to remind myself to come back to this thread

[ThatGuy1oo1]

On Mon Mar 09 2015 at 5:34 AM, JefferyD90 said:

So I have been around for a while on LTT and various forums, and everyone always ask questions about "how to install Windows" or they have troubleshooting questions which always leads to the individual not installing Windows correctly to begin with.  Yet I never find a thread that just guides people through installing Windows!  So I have sat down for a few hours and built what I consider a fairly comprehensive guide to installing Windows the right way.
 
***I will be updating it here in a few days with some revisions (grammar is going to suck ass right now, after spending the better part of 3 hours writing this I didn't revise it too much)***
 

Maybe some of you are wondering what makes doing this "Clean Install" of Windows so special, well I could type it out, or...  you can just go ahead and watch learn!  This is geared towards the recent release of Windows 10 and everyone doing the upgrade, but it applies to all versions and all (99%) situations.

 

 

 

How To Install Windows…  Right!

 
 
This article is specifically designed to teach everyone how to install Windows without any further issues.  Keep in mind you can cut corners, at your own risk.  If you ever do decide to cut these corners NO ONE can guarantee the install will go without hitch and that you will/wont have issues down the road.  Every step here has a purpose, which will be explained in some detail, nothing here done is done without reason.  Please read the WHOLE post before doing ANYTHING!
 
 
Things you’ll need:
 
1. A USB Flash drive (I’d suggest at least 8GB, but not more than 32GB {some older motherboards wont boot with USB drives larger than 32GB})
2. Time, 3-5 hours is about typical.
3. A copy of Windows.  This WILL work with any version of Windows, but the instructions are based around Windows 8.
 
 
NOTE:  This is also destructive, so you will want to back up EVERYTHING you want beforehand.  I highly advise against using any automated software for backups, please instead just copy and paste the data you want to save over to external storage of some sort (USB HDD, NAS, another computer, Cloud Storage are all options here) but that WILL NOT be included in this process guide.
 
     Step 1: Preparation of Install Media

 

 

 

This process is the more lengthy of all the processes, but when done correctly everything else is SO much easier.  Also, this process can be done while your current install is still up and going.  So you can still play a game while stuff downloads and so on.
 
          Step A: Getting Windows Install Media
 
Many people will already have Windows Install media.  This can be acquired from Microsoft (http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/cat/Windows-8.1/categoryID.62684800?icid=L2_Nav_Promo_Store_Windows_011415) for $119.99 at a normal price.  You can also find this other places, like Amazon, for (usually) a little less although you will have to wait for them to send you a disk (yuck physical media).
 
If you already have purchased a copy of Windows before (either physical or digital) you can also use Microsoft’s service to take your product key and download a copy of that install media on the fly (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only) or you can use this http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media.

 

 

UPDATE FOR WINDOWS 10 USERS:  I will not be updating this guide IMMEDIATLY for a comprehensive guide for Windows 10 installations.  But, I will go ahead and include the place you need to go to in order to get a copy of the ISO.  Please, take caution and PLEASE read all the instructions and make informed decisions.

 

Windows 10 Media Creation Tool: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/media-creation-tool-install
 
The PREFERED METHOD of doing this (for this guide anyways) is downloading the files and saving them as a ISO.  We’re not currently ready to put the ISO anywhere yet.
 
NOTE: Do not, I repeat DO NOT, download a copy of Windows from a public torrent or other NON-MICROSOFT source.  Reason for this is because you don’t know WHAT people have done to the ISO, what software they might have slipstreamed in the install, if it is a OEM copy or Retail, and if the ISO isn’t corrupt in some way.  You might be able to get the ISO on the drive, and get drive formatted then realize that the download had a sector or two that was janky because Bob’s HDD from China had a few dead sectors on it.
 
          Step B: Putting the Windows Install Media on a Boot Drive
 
This step is generally the easiest step of the whole process.  I personally like to use the Windows 7 USB/DVD Tool.  You can get that from here: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/windows-usb-dvd-download-tool
 
Once you download and install this tool (should take no longer than 2 minutes total) all you have to do is run the tool, then select the ISO that we downloaded in “Step A” and then select where you want this ISO to be mounted.  I usually select a USB Drive of some sort.  It will destroy anything on the drive.  This process will take a while, about 15 minutes.  This is when you can start to gather your drivers together.
 
NOTE: I always save my ISO to my NAS so I don’t have to download it again in the future.  This is also useful if Microsoft ever does to decide to quit giving us the option to get the ISO with just a product key, or when they quit producing this software.
 
     Step 2: Gathering Drivers
 
This step is the longest step, and is the part that most people fail on in some way.  I will personally be providing the steps for my personal computer, which you can see in my profile.
 
          Step A: Gathering your parts
 
The key in this step is don’t leave any part untouched.  These are the following components that I have, and are the most common for users:
 
Motherboard   ASUS Crossblade Ranger
CPU    AMD A10-7850k
Video Card   ASUS R9290-4GD5
Keyboard   Logitech G105
Mouse    Logitech G600
Headset   Logitech G930
Wireless Adapter  ASUS PCE-AC68
Cooling Solution  NZXT Kraken X41 and X61 Water Cooling  (This isn’t quite as common)
 
NOTE: The big part here is making sure you know what kind of parts you’re using.  For example, when I say I have a ASUS R9-290 that is fine, because ASUS only came out with one version of this card the R9290-4GD5.  But if you said you had a ASUS GTX780Ti, you would then have yourself a bad situation.  See the links below.
 
http://www.asus.com/us/Graphics_Cards/ROG_MATRIXGTX780TIP3GD5/HelpDesk_Download/
http://www.asus.com/us/Graphics_Cards/GTX780TIDC2OC3GD5/HelpDesk_Download/
 
Notice both of these are ASUS GTX780Ti cards.  But they have different model numbers.  One is the MATRIX-GTX780TiP-3GD5 and the other is the GTX780Ti-DC2OC-3GD5.  And if you will look under “Windows 8.1 64bit” you will see that they both have drivers there, but they are not the same version number.  ASUS has updated one of them a little further, for whatever reason they have.  Realistically both drivers will probably work with both cards, but to the point, we don’t know that and they could very easily not work on some level.  And before someone says “It’s the same GPU from NVidia so the driver will work” keep in mind that the two drivers ARE DIFFERENT, its clearly obvious with the driver version and even more obvious when you look at the download size of the files and see that they are different sizes.  One has more than the other, so SOMETHING in those drivers is different, we don’t know which is which.  END POINT don’t take the easy route out and just grab “any ol’ GTX780Ti” driver, get the one designed to work WITH your specific card.
 
          Step B: Downloading Drivers
 
So once you know what hardware you have finding the drivers is fairly simple.  I will use my Crossblade Ranger as the example for this step.
 
1. Go to ASUS’s (my manufacture) website, asus.com.
2. Navigate to the “Support” section of their website (this can be called something different based on the manufacture).  Usually you can just use “support.asus.com” or “asus.com/support” to directly go to this section of their website.
3. Once you get to this section, you can simply search for your product, be sure to use the correct model number, or you can use their navigation drop down boxes.
4. At this point you should find yourself at the motherboard’s support page, you then navigate to the “Driver & Tools” section, sometimes called “Downloads” or any other variation.
5. Usually you’ll have to select your OS (if you don’t, I would be extra careful to what you download)
6. Download stuff!  So here is how you’re going to approach this, download everything.  If you’re in doubt, download it.  If you decide to not install it later, that’s cool, but at least you’ll have it.  But here is some rules you can follow to determine what exactly is necessary.
     a. BIOS files aren’t required.  These are tricky and risky, and have no bearings on installing a OS (generally)
     b. Manuals or any kind of Vendor List aren’t useful.  These are only good once you have a OS installed and can view (usually) PDF’s.
     c. Older Drivers don’t do you any good.  Base this off of the DATE not the version number.
7. As a general rule, save these as a more common file name.  For example I save my chipset driver as “Chipset” instead of “AMD_Chipset_Win7-8-8-1_V809160_809150.zip” like ASUS defaults to.  But this is just so things are clean and easy and has NO bearings on the end result.
 
You also need to differentiate between “Utilities” and “Drivers”.  Drivers are 100% necessary, and Utilities are 99% recommended.  For this motherboard, the Drivers are the following: Chipset, Audio, VGA, LAN, USB, SATA.  Utilities are following:  CPU-Z, ROG Game First, RAMDisk, KeyBot, AI Suite, HomeCloud, PC Diagnostics, AO Help, Boot Settings, and WebStorage.
 
Each of the Utilities have a purpose and most are extremely useful, and if nothing else are good to have installed even if you never end up using them.  For example, my LAN driver allows me to actually use my LAN port; without the LAN driver the LAN port may not work, or will work like poo.  Although the Utility (ROG Game First) on the other hand wont fundamentally change anything, but it will allow packet prioritization, monitoring of network, and so on which the driver itself doesn’t do.
 
          Step C: Organizing Drivers (optional)
 
This step can be done “on the fly” as you’re downloading the drivers.  I personally make a folder and name it the name of my PC “Phantom Ranger” and then create another folder inside of that folder for each component, in this case “Crossblade Ranger” then put the drivers for that component inside that folder.  I have, in the past, created another folder inside the component folder for the Utilities, but sometimes that is more trouble than needed.  So my folder tree will look something like this:
 
Phantom Ranger
-Crossblade Ranger
  Chipset
  Audio
  LAN
  VGA
  ETC…
- ASUS R9290-4GD5
  AMD CCC
-Logitech
ETC…
 
The end result of this step of gathering drivers is make sure you get all the drivers for all your products in a folder that you can navigate easily.  I then take the Driver folder and just copy and paste it onto the boot drive that should be done by now.


 

 

 

 


Occasionally I will go ahead and make a generalized “Software” folder.  This makes installing my favorite programs like Steam, Audacity, uTorrent, 7-Zip, and so on a lot quicker.  Instead of having to download these at the end, I can do it now when I still have my computer up and running and still have access to these programs as they are.
 
     Step 3: Installing Windows
 
KEY POINT: At this point DISCONNECT ALL SOURCES TO INTERNET TO THIS DEVICE.  Do not reconnect internet sources UNTIL told.
 
          Step A: Booting to Media
 
After you get your boot media made (Steps 1 and 2) plug it into the machine you want to Install Windows on and then turn it on, and press the motherboards “Boot Selection” key on your keyboard until you get the option (F8 for my motherboard, you can find this in your manual).  With Windows 8 and my motherboard, I select the UEFI version of my USB Drive and it will start the process.

 

 

 

 

 
          Step B: Deleting Old Data and Partitioning Drive
 
Once the boot media loads everything necessary, it will bring you to an install window.  You will need to select your language, choose the install method, accept the terms, choose custom install.  Obviously you select the language you want, and you will choose Install instead of the “repair” option.  As the repair option only brings up things like a memory test, basic file restoration, and boot repair.  You don’t want to choose the “Upgrade path” for a clean install of Windows, choosing a “Upgrade” will leave MANY files behind and can often lead to having the same problems you had been having from before.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
After all of that, you will want to load your SATA drivers if you have them available.  Sometimes you will have to unzip them before you finish making your install media.  We do this now so there are no issues writing your data to your hard drive.  Last thing we want is corrupted data.  All you have to do is click on the load driver button, then navigate to your driver folder for the SATA device.  If you’re using a RAID controller look for that, otherwise you’re probably looking for a AHCI folder of some sort.

 

 

 

 

 
Everything up until this point has been nondestructive, once you cross THIS LINE you will destroy all your old data AND IT WILL NOT BE RECOVERABLE.
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After you choose the “Custom” path you want to select each partition, and delete ALL of them on the drive.  When you’re done you should have one single “unpartitioned” selection.  Just click it, then click the “New” button.  This will create the Recovery, System, and MSR partitions automatically, and assign them accordingly.  Once this is done (should take all of a few seconds) click next.  Windows will start doing all it needs to do and then restart, occasionally it will restart 2-3 times not just once this depends on the hardware.
 
          Step C: “Personalizing” Windows
 
This is fairly straight forward.  Set a user name, choose the options you want (I leave everything default personally), just whatever you choose DO NOT connect the computer to the internet.  Once you get to the start screen you’re off to the final steps!
 
     Step 4: Setting Up Windows
 
This is the final part, and doesn’t take too long just quite a bit of patience.  A general rule of thumb is restart EVERY time it ask you to, which will be often (after almost every driver install).  Another point is do not install drivers from inside of zip files, unzip them first then install from the normal file folder.  Do not install any programs before you install drivers.  I always copy my driver folder from my USB drive to my desktop and then operate inside the folder on my desktop (a lot faster and you don’t have to worry about the USB Bus being disconnected while a driver is installing causing the installer to not see the drive anymore and corrupting data)
 
          Step A: Installing Drivers
 
There are 3 basic types of driver installs.  I will guide you through each, starting with the easiest and ending with the more complex.
 
1. Exe installers – these installers are fairly simple, all you do is double click them and follow the instructions.  They will extract, configure, and install themselves.  These are fairly automated and require basic reading skills, that’s it.
 
2. Zip/folder installers – These installers are mostly simple.  You unzip the zip file then go into the unzipped folder and run the “setup.exe” file.  With my motherboard, you actually want to select the “AsusSetup.exe” file.  This is a semi common practice, they build the separate drivers together in the same zip folder for several builds of Windows (one for Windows 7 one for Windows 8, and also one each for x64 and x86 are some examples) so you could have half a dozen actual drivers somewhere in this folder that you have unzipped.  The manufacture in this case, will create their own setup file to determine which installer to run.  SIMPLE INSTRUCTION run the exe file located in the unzipped directory.  If you have questions consult the manufacture.
 
3. Propriety zip/folder installers – these are most common on OEM machines.  My best example is (let’s say) a Toshiba notebook computer.  You will download the driver from support.toshiba.com and it will look like a exe file, but when you double click it (if you’ll notice) it actually starts to unzip a bunch of compressed files (usually to c:/user/%user%/AppData/Temp or something like that) and then when it is done unzipping it will ask you if you want to run the newly unzipped files.  Just click yes and it will work.  What makes this different than the Zip/folder installers is that with older machines when you’re installing a different version of Windows than intended with the installer originally, it just won’t work.  I tell you this so you can keep note and find the files you need in the unzipped directory.  This should be done carefully and with some thought beforehand.
 
Once you know how to install a specific driver, you need to make sure you actually install them in a logical fashion.  The best way I know how to explain it is as follows:  When a manufacture makes a motherboard they often times like to add more stuff to the board than what comes with the native chipset.  For example, Intel’s x97 chipset can only support 6 USB 3.0 ports (http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/chipsets/performance-chipsets/z97-chipset.html), but it doesn’t support Bluetooth natively.  So ASUS might decide to take 1 of those USB 3.0 ports and break it off and put a Bluetooth module on it.  You’ll never have that physical 6th port, but it will have Bluetooth solution on the PCB of the motherboard.  You can’t install the Bluetooth driver before you install the chipset driver, because without the chipset driver your USB ports may not function correctly thus the Bluetooth device is never detected at all.
 
With all that said, this is the normal way I install drivers:
 
1. Chipset (Northbridge then Southbridge)
2. Chipset additions (this includes Intel Engine Management or things of that nature)
3. SATA (if you need additional drivers)
4. Audio
5. LAN
6. Video (I always install integrated drivers first then install dedicated video, sometimes you can completely pass on the integrated driver {like with my build} because the way CCC installs)
7. USB
8. All other drivers.  At this point it “shouldn’t” matter.  If you run into problems consult your manufacture.
 
At this point (for all of you meticulous people) you can check your device manager and all your devices SHOULD be accounted for.  If you have any devices that are unknown then you didn’t download all the drivers for all your devices.  You should use another computer to find the driver you need.  If you cant figure out which driver you need, grab the “Hardware Ids” from the “Details” tab once you right click on the troubled device and click on “Properties”.  Once you have the Hardware Ids just type it in a search engine and it should point you in the direction of the device you forgot to get a driver for.  But whatever you do, don’t connect your computer to the internet just yet!
 
          Step B: Install Utilities
 
At this point you’ll understand how to operate installers.  So just find your way back to your folder on your desktop then install all the utilities you got.  Restart upon request but always restart no matter what when you have finished installing your last utility. 
 
          Step C: Install Windows Updates
 
This is the point where you can finally connect your computer to the internet.  Once your computer has restarted after you have finished installing DRIVERS AND UTILITIES go ahead and connect your computer to the internet and open Windows Update and check for updates.  This might take a few minutes but give it time.  Once it’s done look at the list of updates, I would select ALL of the updates BESIDES the Hardware updates.  For example, I would go ahead and check all of them but the “AMD Graphics Driver”.  Let it download and install all the updates, then restart your machine.  Because of the vast number of updates you could have (most people have close to 100 or more) I wouldn’t perform any other actions because it could interfere with a critical update that is altering a file.  Best bet is to just simply click the install button and let the computer sit for about a hour, checking on it every 10-15 minutes or so.  (Don’t let it sit for too long because it WILL go to sleep as Window’s default sleep cycle is 20 minutes I believe).
 
Once done restart the computer and check again.  Usually you’ll have to check for updates 2-3 times before it doesn’t find any more new updates.  But once it’s done then you can research if you want to allow Windows Update to install the hardware updates.  I personally, will usually just hide all hardware updates because the Windows Update version of the driver is often more out of date than the one you’ll get from the manufacture.  But occasionally you will receive benefit from installing the Windows Update version of the driver.
 
NOTE: This is why you shouldn’t connect your computer to the internet until all the drivers are set.  When you’re installing your drivers you don’t want Windows installing updates and potentially be installing the same device driver at the same time!  Also when installing a driver, you don’t want to be messing with critical Windows files as they are OFTEN interwoven somehow.
 
          Step D: Install Software
 
This is it, now you can install all your personal software on your machine.  It should be up to date and running like a champ.

 

This has been helpful, but even with the sata drivers, I put them unzipped and compressed on a USB, and they don't show up, and neither does my hard drive.

[JefferyD90]

8 hours ago, ThatGuy1oo1 said:

This has been helpful, but even with the sata drivers, I put them unzipped and compressed on a USB, and they don't show up, and neither does my hard drive.

If you're having problems seeing a disk in the Windows installer either you've changed a setting in your UEFI/BIOS that is preventing the drives from starting, the driver isn't present, or the devices themselves are failing.