The Water Cooling Gallery

[djbenxnyc]

1 hour ago, For Science! said:

Looks nice, but watch out for corrosion due to silver + nickel.

Thank you for the advice! Galvanic corrosion is the kryptonite to the water cooling community. The whole ekwb nickel peel fiasco back in 2013 was nasty. I do perform semiannual clearing and fluid changes in all my watercooling system, keeping a close eye on corrosion or if any funky growth in the system.

[BeedooX]

CPU: AMD Threadripper 2950X

GPU: Asus Geforce RTX 2080 OC

RAM: 8 x 8GB 2800MHz G.Skill RipJaws

SSD1: 512GB Samsung 970 Pro NVMe

SSD2: 1.2TB Intel 750 Series PCI

SSD3: 512GB Samsung 850 Pro

SSD4: 512GB Samsung 850 Pro

SSD5: 250GB Samsung 840 EVO

MB: Asus ROG Zenith Extreme

PSU: 1000W Corsair HX1000i

CASE: Thermaltake View 71TG

CABLING: CableMod ModMesh C-Series RED

 

CPU BLOCK: Heatkiller IV Threadripper

VRM BLOCK: Heatkiller MB-X

PUMP:  EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump

RESERVOIR: EK RES X3 250 Reservoir

RAD1: EK Coolstream CE 280

RAD2: EK Coolstream SE 280

TUBE: EK HD PETG Tube 12/16mm

FITTINGS: EK HDC 16mm Nickel & Black

DISPLAY: Thermaltake Pacific TF1

COOLANT: Distilled water w/ EK Cryo Fuel Blood Red

FANS: Thermaltake RIING 140 x 3

FANS: Thermaltake RIING 120 x 1

FANS: Noiseblocker 140mm x 2,

FANS: Corsair 140mm RED ML Pro x 2

FANS: 80mm x 1 M.2 + RAM cooling

 

This is my first hard-tube installation. Prior to this I'd always used AIOs, going to the Swiftech H240X, then H240X2 Prestige where I dabbled by replacing the tubing and adding in another radiator. Finally took the plunge to do a proper build.

 

As you might imagine, planning to finish up with some fan brand 'improvements' in the near future.

 

 

[troubleis]

Project Nightmare

CPU: Intel 8700k

GPU: Asus 1070 Dual

RAM: 4x8gb G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 

SSD: 512GB Samsung 970 Evo NVMe

Mobo: Asus ROG Maximus XI Code Z390

PSU: 850w Corsair RM850X

Case: Silverstone TJ07 (Acrylikustom mod panels)

Cables: CableMod Pro ModMesh C Series

 

CPU Block: EK Velocity D RGB                                                                                                                                                                                                  GPU Block: BYKSKI

Pump: XSPC D5 PWM SATA Pump 

Reservoir: Singularity Computers Protium Reservoir 200mm

Radiator: XSPC RX480

Tubing: BYKSKI Metal Tubing 14mm

Fittings: XSPC 14mm Chrome

Coolant: XSPC EC6 Opaque UV Blue

Fans: Corsair ML120 Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan x6

[Vynro]

CPU: Intel Core i7-9700k

GPU: Asus Geforce RTX 2080 Gaming

RAM: 4 x 8GB 2666MHz G.Skill Trident Z

SSD1: 512GB XPG SX8200 Pro NVME

SSD2: 500GB Samsung 860 EVO

SSD3: 1TB Samsung 850 Evo

SSD4: 250GB Samsung 850 EVO

HDD+SSD: Intel Optane 32GB + 4TB BarraCuda HDD

MB: Asus ROG Strix Z390-E

PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower iRGB PLUS Platinum TT Premium Edition Power Supply, 850W

CASE: Thermaltake Core P3 TG

 

Cooling Kit: Thermaltake Pacific C360 DDC hard tube water cooling kit

 

[Tonberry]

I dont have a CLC build, but when I surf in Pinterest yesterday, I stumbled on this stunner..

I was completely stunned for few minutes, wondering how this could be possible?

 

Stunning soft tube (?) sandwiched rads

Spoiler

 

[TootY]

Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK  - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)

 

 

 

 

 

[TheBluePotato]

Everyone is showing off their super duper fancy expensive rigs here so I thought I might mix it up a bit.

 

Say hello to my old gaming PC! (or, the parts at least)

 

It inhabits a neat Intel Core 2 Duo @2,4Ghz with 4 threads, My first ever graphics card, a GTX660ti (best choice of my life), ontop of a noname, whatever motherboard.

Powered by a Thermaltake Berlin 630W, which has all leftover cables simply cut off - to make cable management easier  and its fan replaced by a - also noname- fan from another power supply.

 

But here comes the best part!

 

Its cooled by a custom waterloop!

 

The Mainboard chipset has always been getting incredibly hot so that needed a cooler and the CPU?

 

How about a PELTIER module on it? Thats right.

 

The CPU is cooled with a peltier module, which in turn is cooled by a waterblock! What waterblock you may ask?

The kind you get when you go to amazon.com, type in "pc waterblock", sort cheapest first and select the one that looks most like it would actually maybe work.

 

The radiator is a 240mm, 30mm thick rad, aquired by the same technique, the pump is a simple small 12V pump, also from Amazon, and the tubing is some garden hose, which we actually sell in our shop (gardening center)

All of that glory is held down by a piece of wood, some zipties and a burned pencil, of course!

 

I did throw in a 18$ 120GB SSD just to spice it up as well.

Its running Linux Ubuntu (cause I didn't have a Windows licence on hand, want win 10 tho)

 

All of that is in my first Case, the Zalman Z11+ (don't buy it please)

 

 

TEMPS! PICS!

 

 

Spoiler

 

As you can see, the temps dropped drastically, from 42 degrees down to just 5 on the first core!

Unfortunately, the sensor seems to be only able to go down to 5 and 10 degrees for the 4 cores, since they have been staying down there, not fluctuating at all, for almost 20 minutes. So we might very well be in the negative digits here!

 

PS: No the water is not green, the tubing is, by standart

PPS: The rig to the left is my actual, proper gaming rig, soon (6 weeks) to be upgraded, will post pics here once finished as well And yes, the parts in there are proper, unlike this joke-rig

 

[As Above Sota Below]

Cant wait to see your "proper" gaming rig when its finished! I'm so glad modern enthus PCB isnt green or yellow or borderline neon red.

[CiBi]

Hey guys, anyone here have an EK Velocity block and a new Ryzen 3000? I'm very interested in what temps you get at stock settings.

[English Pete]

Hi guys,

 

INWIN 301

 

Intel 8600k 4.00Ghz (EK Supremacy Evo RGB)

Zotac 1080ti Mini (Bykski Waterblock)

 

EK SPC-60 + Aquatuning Quad 560 + EK FURIOUS 140mm

Samsung 970 Evo + Samsung 850 Pro

Corsair Vengeance 16GB 3000Mhz

Corsair SF650

 

PC is currently in rebuild Phase, as I am waiting for the Zcase P50 delivery.

 

The Plan: Zcase P50 with 560mm Radiator on side and Custom hardline PSU Cables out of Alumium, maybe Cyberpunk 2077 or Industrial Style, not sure yet!

 

EDIT: Finally got the Zcase P50, great case, really light and it is so tight!

 

Sfx psu is missing and the 560mm rad will be on the back.

 resovoir will be removed)

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2019 by English Pete

[SeerreuS]

Just finished building< I wish I could show the mess in the back, no clue where to start.

  

    Corsair

case-1000D, 13 ML rgb 120mm fans,  6 LL series 140mm fans, 2 commander pros, 3 rgb hubs, AXi 1200 psu,

    Asus

Rog Formula XI MB, 2 2080ti Rog Strix 011 gaming OC edition, Asus NV link

   Intel

i9-9900k oc to 5.2 GHz

  G-skill memory -3600 MHz 32 gigs

  Samsung

970 evo+ nvme 500 GB, 2 860 evo ssds 1TB each

  WATER COOLING

XSPC ION water pump, XSPC 14MM riggid tubing, XSPC fittings, EKWB vector strix water blocks with back plate

   ALPHACOOL 420MM AIO EISBAER

  MSI GPU SUPPORT bracket 

  Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on all

[SiCkHiTrEg]

On 6/24/2019 at 11:30 AM, WHWidjaja said:

I spent couple of hours on the weekends to re-do the loop to make it look more symmetrical.

 

 

That looks dope af.  What lighting are you using in your case?  Heres mine.  I want to do lighting like what you did.  Also did you sleeve your own cables or get them somewhere?

 

 

[MiniMike DK]

Hi Guys.

 

Here is my first real attempt at water cooling with hard tubing.

Took a long time to finish and a lot of tries to get a point where I was satisfied with the result. Precision bends are pretty hard...

 

My build:

Cooler Master H500M Case

Intel I9 9900K

Asus Dual RTX 2080 OC8G

Asus Z390-H gaming motherboard

32GB g-Skill 3200Mhz Ram

Samsung 960 Evo boot drive

Kingston 480GB SSD

Samsung 120GB SSD

2 x 280mm radiators.

XSPC Photon 270 reservoir

Phobia DC12-220 pump

EKWB blocks on CPU and GPU.

 

 

[GabeThePCHelper]

Awesome! I like it.

[GabeThePCHelper]

2 minutes ago, MiniMike DK said:

Hi Guys.

 

Here is my first real attempt at water cooling with hard tubing.

Took a long time to finish and a lot of tries to get a point where I was satisfied with the result. Precision bends are pretty hard...

 

My build:

Cooler Master H500M Case

Intel I9 9900K

Asus Dual RTX 2080 OC8G

Asus Z390-H gaming motherboard

32GB g-Skill 3200Mhz Ram

Samsung 960 Evo boot drive

Kingston 480GB SSD

Samsung 120GB SSD

2 x 280mm radiators.

XSPC Photon 270 reservoir

Phobia DC12-220 pump

EKWB blocks on CPU and GPU.

 

[MiniMike DK]

Just now, GabeThePCHelper said:

Thats awesome! Clean and simple, I like it.

Thank you.

[Zando_]

May need to redo the line from the rad to the pump so I'm not getting microbubbles in the coolant (though temps have been fine so that may wait till the next round of upgrades), but here's the boi: 

 

i7 5820K with a Heatkiller IV Pro acetal block
EVGA X99 Classified, 32GB HyperX Predator 3200MHz CL16 DDR4
Radeon VII with an EK acetal block and matching backplate
250GB 960 Evo and 1TB 970 Evo on PCIe add-in cards (there's a 500GB WD Blue SATA M.2 on the bottom add-in card but for some reason it hates to boot with any reasonable speed when I have a SATA drived hooked up)
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv TG (Grey) with a Corsair RM1000i
Running EK-ZMT tubing, EK D5 pump/res combo, EK stubby barbs, and Black Ice GTS Stealth rads with NH-F12s. 

Still need to get a CableMod cable kit in carbon (have one that works with my EVGA PSUs but not a set for this Corsair one), redo the aformentioned line, and get my hands on a 5960X, all once I have the mons.

[Tonberry]

15 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

May need to redo the line from the rad to the pump so I'm not getting microbubbles in the coolant (though temps have been fine so that may wait till the next round of upgrades), but here's the boi: 

 

I always like a well managed black ZMT builds like this one rather than RGB hard tubing ones. The only hard tubing builds I like are the ones with frosty clear tubing ones, they looks so much better than RGB/colored fluid hard tubing builds.

[Zando_]

9 hours ago, PotatoCanDo! said:

I always like a well managed black ZMT builds like this one rather than RGB hard tubing ones. The only hard tubing builds I like are the ones with frosty clear tubing ones, they looks so much better than RGB/colored fluid hard tubing builds.

Hell yeah. I love how well done RGB builds look as well, but IMO the clean simple look is the best. ZMT tubing is clean af, doesn't leak, and is easy to work with (still need to get 2 more 90 degree fittings to make a line or two cleaner though, and reduce microbubbles in the res). I have fittings for hardline too, for that I go with plain black PETG, it's similarly clean and simple looking. I've ran full RGB setups before (used to have a Crosshair VII with RGB RAM, EK monoblock, a Vega FE, etc), now the only RGB for my rig is the keyboard and mouse, the PC itself just has mobo and PCIe add-in card status lights. I also love how clean the X99 Classified is, it's still got a red EVGA logo, but it's not full black/red like my X58 Classified boards. 

 

For reference on the hardline, here's my X58 Classy 4-way with a hardline CPU loop before I pulled the pump/res, rad, and block for this rig: 

 

First time doing hardline so the lines weren't as clean as they could have been, but it still looks really good with the Noctua fans and mobo (later I replaced the 120mm Noctua and random 92mm fan on the VRMs/Northbridge with two 40mm Noctua ones, but now that rig has been taken apart and the mobo sits in a box waiting for a project sometime). 

[Tonberry]

18 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Hell yeah. I love how well done RGB builds look as well, but IMO the clean simple look is the best. ZMT tubing is clean af, doesn't leak, and is easy to work with (still need to get 2 more 90 degree fittings to make a line or two cleaner though, and reduce microbubbles in the res). I have fittings for hardline too, for that I go with plain black PETG, it's similarly clean and simple looking. I've ran full RGB setups before (used to have a Crosshair VII with RGB RAM, EK monoblock, a Vega FE, etc), now the only RGB for my rig is the keyboard and mouse, the PC itself just has mobo and PCIe add-in card status lights. I also love how clean the X99 Classified is, it's still got a red EVGA logo, but it's not full black/red like my X58 Classified boards. 

 

For reference on the hardline, here's my X58 Classy 4-way with a hardline CPU loop before I pulled the pump/res, rad, and block for this rig: 

 

First time doing hardline so the lines weren't as clean as they could have been, but it still looks really good with the Noctua fans and mobo (later I replaced the 120mm Noctua and random 92mm fan on the VRMs/Northbridge with two 40mm Noctua ones, but now that rig has been taken apart and the mobo sits in a box waiting for a project sometime). 

Have you ever seen a frosted hard tubing build? Looks so much better (at least for me) than a glossy hard tubes RGB/colored fluid builds. Here's an example I found on pinterest

[Zando_]

6 minutes ago, PotatoCanDo! said:

Have you ever seen a frosted hard tubing build? Looks so much better (at least for me) than a glossy hard tubes RGB/colored fluid builds. Here's an example I found on pinterest

-snip-

Ooooooooooo...... I've never seen that before, it's got a very clean, icy look to it. Color matched coolant with clear tubing is excellent as well, but this is defo a good option for a lighter look. Polished copper/stainless hardline is gorgeous too, but pretty hard to work with IIRC. 

[MiniMike DK]

4 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

Ooooooooooo...... I've never seen that before, it's got a very clean, icy look to it. Color matched coolant with clear tubing is excellent as well, but this is defo a good option for a lighter look. Polished copper/stainless hardline is gorgeous too, but pretty hard to work with IIRC. 

 

[MindArlekin]

Hmmm, I think, I see here is too much of beautiful and accurate high end builds. Let me spice this forum thread with something more on budget side.

Remember this thing?

This was called "Ziptie abomination ", I posted it in January in this thread.

 

Well, we can say that this Pokemon has evolved. Let me introduce to you "Performance over style":

It's same case and mostly same components as in first build. But I like when components in case fill as much space, as possible, and i also like more compact builds, so:

1. I maked case shorter about 8 cm (little bit more than 3 inches).

2. All hard drive and optical drive baskets have been removed, front portion of case was made to mount on it 360 rad with fans.

3. Plus i mounted some brackets in coners (they behind rad on pictures, you can't see them) for improving rigidity (not enought, as I fugured it out later).

4. Small HDD basket was salvaged from donor case (btw, Inwin in early 2000s was making very sturdy cases, i will use frame from my donor for my next mod/build) and mounted directly to top of the case with roofing screws (at least it removable ).

5. Front panel was made from old one by removing center part and replacing it with galvanized mesh for plastering, power button was replaced and relocated on top center part of panel. Four neodymium magnets was mounted with hot glue in coners of panel to make it easy to install/remove from a case (but now front panel can't be used like a grip point).

6. My main mistake for this build was to trust LTT video about plasti dip (joke). I was on very strict budget, and all this work, from start to finish, i did in my rental room, where i live. So, at that time i considered plasti dip because it didn't need very heavy surface preparation, primer and also dries very fast. Also overspray is less of a problem just because after drying out coating turning into thin film, that can be peeled off very easily from pretty much any surface. But I had enough money for only two cans of "paint", ant this is not enough. Layer is to thin, it rips and peels off after any not very gentle touch, many edge surfaces was damaged in assembly process, even with me trying to be as careful as possible. End result is pretty only when you look at it from a distance, but for me it still good enough.

 

From last time i acquired some additional parts, like angle fittings (45s and 90s), proper reservoir and  better quality tube. For coolant additive i used ethylene glycol based automotive coolant premix (from which water have this light pink color), not very big amount, but enough for corrosion and bacteria growth resistance.

Also, it happens that my B350 PC Mate has RGB header, so i ordered 2 meters of rgb strip to mask defects with some bright lights. I also bought usb 3.0/ audio-mic combo for front panel, but after mounting of rad and fans there was no space to mount it, even without hiding it.

1060 was swapped for 2060, 120 Adata "NVME" ssd was changed for WD 500gb sata model.To cool vrm and memory on graphics card I made "custom" adaptor from standard fan header to smaller one, that was for stock graphics card fans. Rods and springs for stand off mount for cooling fan was salvaged from old AM2 cpu cooler mount.

 

Case is kinda on a flimsy side, but with components in it rigidity slightly improves. Paint Job is kinda trashy, but it good enough if you dont look at it very picky. Also, i decided to not make acrylic side panel and just leave case open, because acrylic is scrach magnet, and my plans to cover it with automotive clear armor film happend to be quite expensive.

 

Overall, lessons learned, experience is gained, even some good tools acquired in a process. Starting goal to fix previous mistakes and also make system more compact and neat is completed.  Next step will be after I upgrade to Zen 2.

 

 

[alryaz]

I'm gonna kick things up a notch with this ravaged barbaric atrocity, with a 360 AIO strapped to a rectangular hole cut out using metal scissors on a rack mount case;

(Side-view)

This creature isn't as sexy as I envisioned it to be, yet pretty competent at running an overclocked CPU and a mildly overclocked GPU. All else is standard. The case and all modifications to make this "thing" a rack mount unit cost me somewhat in the neighborhood of 20-ish USD (including case, rails, fans, mounting brackets, tools, etc.). Props to our local "Craigslist" alternative!

 

(Component layout)

 

The specs are as follows:

CPU: i5-7600K OC'd @ 4.5GHz

Mobo: ASUS Z270-P PRIME

GPU: NVIDIA GTX 780Ti

RAM: Mixed kits of Corsair Vengeance LPX & Crucial BallistiX, 32GB DDR4-2400

Storage: 1*Samsung PM981 NVMe (512GB), 1*SanDisk X300 SATAIII (128GB), 1*Crucial M500 SATAIII (480GB), 1*Seagate Desktop SSHD SATAIII (1000GB)

AIO: GamerStorm MasterLiquid 360 RGB

PSU: Corsair CX750M

PCIe Add-ons: 1*Mellanox ConnectX-3 Single-Port 10GbE SFP Adapter, 1*ORIENT 6-port USB3.0 Controller (for UASP support)

 

In retrospect, I might have done a few things differently regarding radiator mounting, such as cutting off a wholly different part of the case or going with a smaller AIO for such a setup. Getting idle temps in the neighborhood of 25-30degC, with 60-70degC at full load, which is pretty nice compared to previous thermal throttling in 7 minutes.

 

(How it fits)

 

Now the reason I ended up in such a problematic situation was a sudden relocation to an apartment complex where every square inch of your living space matters. I managed to salvage a 16U server rack to rebuild my NAS, firewall and my own PC, as well as local switch (also rack mounted) and a HomeAssistant RPi all in one place. I had a go at creating a custom ventilation system for this (by carving out multiple 120mm circles in the rack's solid back wall and two 200m on the sides for intake), which worked out great (running off a Sonoff RF wired up with a temp.sensor, directed to activate upon hitting 45degC ambient). It all runs quietly (sits under the table not further away than 3m from my bed).

 

I might add a few dust filters extremely soon, because all the negative pressure is driving every single dust particle onto the mobo, and it's getting pretty annoying. The 60mm Arctic F6 PWM PST fan isn't that great at evening out the pressure of a blower-style graphics card cooler, an AIO and a PSU fan. And, unfortunately, of course I know about the back side being exhaust, therefore my setup draws heated air from other servers inside to compensate for the pressure. But I think I'm scrubbing the ceiling at how far I can push my current hardware without additional buy-ins, and therefore the complete reorganization is six foot under on my list.

[Wirerat]

Here is my aging fractal design R5. I recently stuffed another 240mm in the bottom of the case. It didnt require much modification. I just had to slide the fwd 240mm up about an inch and secure it with 4 screws instead of 8.

 

The clearance from bottom rad to psu is made possible because the fans are under the rad. I added a picture of this. 

 

Specs:

-  9900k 5.1ghz 1.38v (adaptive oc) 

-  Msi 1080 ti gaming x 2025mhz

-  Patriot viper 3800mhz cl  17

-  Gigabyte aorus pro z390 

-  Seasonic 750w g series 

-  Crucial p1 nvme + 2 crucial mx500s

 

Cooling:

-  Ek supremacy evo + 1080ti TF6 blocks

-  Ek xres 140mm pwm ddc 3.2 pump

-  360mm ek pe + 240mm hw labs gts

-  240mm xspc ex240

-  Ekwb fittings + zmt tubing

-  mayhems x1 blue coolant

- gentle typhoons + be quiet high speed

 

Temps are 45c max on the gpu. 9900k runs around 65c max gaming. I posted a pic of cpu temps during a x264 stressor run. Cpu is not delided. 

 

 

 

 

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