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The correct method to leaktest and commision a loop before use.

This is a thread explaining a simple method of dry testing a loop or reassembled blocks to guarantee watertightness before filling.
The current accepted method of filling and crossing your fingers is,to my mind,unacceptable when for $20-£20 outlay you could have a professional leak tester with all the uncertainty taken out.

The parts list.

1 1/4" BSPP Equal Tee
1 Pressure gauge,1/4" BSPP thread,20PSI gauge limit is best as it will allow you to see very small pressure drops easily
1 Schrader valve,1/4" BSPP thread.

Assemble like so....

kbJ17lz.jpg

Use PTFE tape on all threads to make a good air seal.

Test the unit with a blanking plug fitted,pump it up to 20 PSI and leave it,any pressure loss means a leak,it HAS to be airtight before use.

I use a Bitspower d plug on the end as I can just screw on side on then push the unit into place rather than screwing the whole thing on.

Attach to your fillport or any port thats free.

fgBX9IC.jpg

Pump it up with a hand pump to around 10-12 PSI.

Any leaks will result in a pressure drop which the gauge will show.

To find those pesky leaks,use a qtip with dish soap or childrens bubble liquid around any suspect fittings,any leaks with blow bubbles allowing for a clean,simple fix rather than having to drain the loop and starting again.

For opened blocks,seal the other ports with blanking plugs and pump up,any pressure loss is indication of a leak.

There,a simple and nigh on fool proof leak test method.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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I have always done this by mouth. It has saved me many times.

 

Although it is less clean and precise doing it by blowing air into the loop, its free and everyone can do it, even if they don't spend the extra £20.

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

Add me to your circles on Google+ here or you can follow me on twitter @deadfire19.

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I have always done this by mouth. It has saved me many times.

 

Although it is less clean and precise doing it by blowing air into the loop, its free and everyone can do it, even if they don't spend the extra £20.

 

 

That will only show very large leaks,a slow leak will not show with your method,nor will it really test a waterblock.

 

A good precursor to filling tho,on the quick.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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Just a note: This thread has been added under "Extras" in the FAQ.

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

Add me to your circles on Google+ here or you can follow me on twitter @deadfire19.

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Pressure testing is always a great Idea when trying to prove the integrity of any sealed or pressure system. Your gauge pressure limit should be as close to your test pressure as possible plus 10% is the recommended standard. And the fail point of a pressure test is a 5% drop in pressure most tests are held at the test pressure for half an hour. because you will be testing at such low pressures you will not be able to see a difference with a gauge that is in PSI so I would use a gauge that is in KPA. 1PSI = 6.894KPA So 10PSI is 68.94KPA. Even a 100 KPA gauge would be great for this as they are a common size.

Just trying to help out. 

 

Also pressure gauges should always be mounted in the vertical position.

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Pressure testing is always a great Idea when trying to prove the integrity of any sealed or pressure system. Your gauge pressure limit should be as close to your test pressure as possible plus 10% is the recommended standard. And the fail point of a pressure test is a 5% drop in pressure most tests are held at the test pressure for half an hour. because you will be testing at such low pressures you will not be able to see a difference with a gauge that is in PSI so I would use a gauge that is in KPA. 1PSI = 6.894KPA So 10PSI is 68.94KPA. Even a 100 KPA gauge would be great for this as they are a common size.

Just trying to help out. 

 

Also pressure gauges should always be mounted in the vertical position.

 

 

Absolutely incorrect,a 1 PSI drop is very noticeable,even on a 60 PSI gauge.

 

Pressure gauges do not need to be vertical either,I have 2 compressors here with horizontal gauges and they work just fine.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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Absolutely incorrect,a 1 PSI drop is very noticeable,even on a 60 PSI gauge.

 

Pressure gauges do not need to be vertical either,I have 2 compressors here with horizontal gauges and they work just fine.

You don't like other people's input into your threads do you.

Remember the BS you took on with me in regards to natural convection. (if you want me to make you look like an idiot again I'm more then happy to do this.)

I can tell you all pressure gauges should be mounted in the vertical position for accuracy As they are calibrated for the vertical position. no pressure gauge manufacture will recommend putting a pressure gauge in the horizontal position unless it is re-calibrated.

And yes you will see a tiny bit of movement with a 0-60 PSI gauge but it will be a great deal easier to see any change with a 0-100 KPA Gauge.  You said the test pressure is 10PSI or 68.94 KPA that is a 0.5 PSI or 3.447KPA drop for a fail. it's going to be very hard to see a 0.5 PSI drop on a 0-60 PSI Gauge(1/120 of the gauge) compared to 3.447KPA on a 0-100 KPA gauge(1/29 of the gauge)

Like I said your Idea is a great one I'm just trying to help out by adding some extra info.

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You don't like other people's input into your threads do you.

Remember the BS you took on with me in regards to natural convection. (if you want me to make you look like an idiot again I'm more then happy to do this.)

I can tell you all pressure gauges should be mounted in the vertical position for accuracy As they are calibrated for the vertical position. no pressure gauge manufacture will recommend putting a pressure gauge in the horizontal position unless it is re-calibrated.

And yes you will see a tiny bit of movement with a 0-60 PSI gauge but it will be a great deal easier to see any change with a 0-100 KPA Gauge.  You said the test pressure is 10PSI or 68.94 KPA that is a 0.5 PSI or 3.447KPA drop for a fail. it's going to be very hard to see a 0.5 PSI drop on a 0-60 PSI Gauge(1/120 of the gauge) compared to 3.447KPA on a 0-100 KPA gauge(1/29 of the gauge)

Like I said your Idea is a great one I'm just trying to help out by adding some extra info.

Because that matters for a simple leak tester does it? The gauge doesnt need that level of accuracy,we are not anesthetists,we are looking for small pressure loss. Diaphragm sag is not a factor at all.

You made sweeping statements which are simply not true,the gauge doesnt need to be vertical and the pressure loss will be noticeable.

G9x001, on 06 Jan 2015 - 12:52 AM, said:

    Pressure testing is always a great Idea when trying to prove the integrity of any sealed or pressure system. Your gauge pressure limit should be as close to your test pressure as possible plus 10% is the recommended standard. And the fail point of a pressure test is a 5% drop in pressure most tests are held at the test pressure for half an hour. because you will be testing at such low pressures you will not be able to see a difference with a gauge that is in PSI so I would use a gauge that is in KPA. 1PSI = 6.894KPA So 10PSI is 68.94KPA. Even a 100 KPA gauge would be great for this as they are a common size.

    Just trying to help out.

    Also pressure gauges should always be mounted in the vertical position.

 

 

You cant even make up your mind between posts,first I cant see a change then I can....please make your mind up?

 

Again,notice that I dont dispute your claim of the KPA gauge having finer display,I dispute the claims listed.

 

Now,seeing as you like to bait,lets let the others read what you allude too....

 

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/189056-how-many-rads-and-pumps/

 

Notice the overwhelming negative response to your comments from multiple sources,not just me,so no,I dont feel like an idiot,however baiting me like that just reinforces my opinion that you are just a troll mug.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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Notice the overwhelming negative response to your comments from multiple sources,not just me,so no,I dont feel like an idiot,however baiting me like that just reinforces my opinion that you are just a troll mug.

All I provided is facts and for you to once again try to imply that I'm a troll proves your disability to be able to take on information and cope with Constructive criticism and proves my statement about other peoples input into your posts or threads. Mate Like I said your idea is great I'm just using my skills and knowledge to help improve on it.

As for me making my mind up about the movement in the gauge the movement In a 0-60 PSI gauge will be able to be seen but it's dial movement for a 0.5 PSI drop will be so small it will be barely noticeable. Or should I say the movement in a 0-60 PSI gauge is going to be F&*K all hopefully that make's it more clear.

Because that matters for a simple leak tester does it? The gauge doesnt need that level of accuracy,we are not anesthetists,we are looking for small pressure loss. Diaphragm sag is not a factor at all.

Yes a pressure test is a pressure test. All the points I made are relevant to even this small scale test. And as you point out you are looking for small pressure loss which for your test is 0.5 PSI At a 10 PSI test pressure. so wouldn't it be better to use a Smaller gauge?

And I will say it again pressure gauges should be mounted in the vertical position for accuracy.

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Too lazy to even read the first post....

 

1 Pressure gauge,1/4" BSPP thread,20 PSI gauge limit is best as it will allow you to see very small pressure drops easily

 

 

No one mentioned 60 PSI gauges nor 0.5 PSI pressure loss,you are making it up as you go along....

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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Too lazy to even read the first post....

 

 

No one mentioned 60 PSI gauges nor 0.5 PSI pressure loss,you are making it up as you go along....

What is this.

Absolutely incorrect,a 1 PSI drop is very noticeable,even on a 60 PSI gauge.

Test the unit with a blanking plug fitted,pump it up to 25 PSI and leave it, would you do this to a 20 PSI gauge. 

You wrote this.

Also have you not looked at your picture.

kbJ17lz.jpg

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And?,its an old gauge from my spray kit as an example,I use it but I dont expect others to,hence the recommendation for a 20 PSI gauge

 

25PSI was my mistake,edited to correct.

 

You fail to realize that the pressure will keep dropping,much faster than a water leak would,if you are uncertain then leave for a longer period.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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And?,its an old gauge from my spray kit as an example,I use it but I dont expect others to,hence the recommendation for a 20 PSI gauge

 

25PSI was my mistake,edited to correct.

 

You fail to realize that the pressure will keep dropping,much faster than a water leak would,if you are uncertain then leave for a longer period.

Actually the pneumatic test will loose pressure slower than if you done a hydraulic test and had a small leak. The reason being is that air compresses when put under pressure and will act like a ballast.

What you fail to realize and have never asked is what I do for a living. And the experience I have in this field.

 

But I must say your Idea is a fantastic one and should be used by all PC builders and enthusiasts alike. 

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I'm thinking of putting in a big temp gauge like that when I make my custom loop.

 

 

Because reasons.

Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

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I would second G9x001's recommendations, but otherwise this is good advice.

4K // R5 3600 // RTX2080Ti

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So I see this hasn't even hit 2 pages, nobody has given this more thought?

Current PC build: [CPU: Intel i7 8700k] [GPU: GTX 1070 Asus ROG Strix] [Ram: Corsair LPX 32GB 3000MHz] [Mobo: Asus Prime Z370-A] [SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB primary + Samsung 860 Evo 1TB secondary] [PSU: EVGA SuperNova G2 750w 80plus] [Monitors: Dual Dell Ultrasharp U2718Qs, 4k IPS] [Case: Fractal Design R5]

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So I see this hasn't even hit 2 pages, nobody has given this more thought?

 

As in?

 

It is just a tut. There is not much more to add that already hasnt been discussed.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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Great idea.

 

Found the other parts, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to find that schrader valve to G1/4.

 

Where did you get yours?

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Great idea.

 

Found the other parts, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to find that schrader valve to G1/4.

 

Where did you get yours?

 

Ebay.

You are more likely to get a 1/8 valve,just get a thread reducer if thats easier.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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Thanks, I've been looking for parts all day.

 

I think I'm going to go with this 15 PSI gas tester (Amazon)

 

+ an NPT 3/4 male to 1/4 NPT female (Amazon)

 

+ a Koolance 1/4 NPT to G1/4 female

 

+ Bitspower D-Plug

 

 

Phew, it's been a long time figuring out where to get everything, but I think it's gonna work.

 

I might still go with an individual components version, if I can find that elusive schrader valve...

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It looks like the schrader valve is already fitted.

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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What's the problem with just leak testing it outside of case first?

Why do this?

n0ah1897, on 05 Mar 2014 - 2:08 PM, said:  "Computers are like girls. It's whats in the inside that matters.  I don't know about you, but I like my girls like I like my cases. Just as beautiful on the inside as the outside."

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What's the problem with just leak testing it outside of case first?

Why do this?

 

Why do you pull your kit out to leak test?

In all the years i have been watercooling,never have I removed kit to leak test to then reinstall it,are you so n00b as to strip everything out,reassemble,leak test then disassemble and replace? Why bother leak testing in the first place.....

SR-2-2x X5650 Xeons-3x 670 FTW-1x 120Gb Force GT-1x 240Gb Force GT-1tb WD Green-12Gb Dom GT 1866-Platimax 1500w-2x HK3-2xD5-24v controller-3x RX 480's-3x NiBlk HK GPU blocks-Koolance tops-BP res-15x SP120's-Little Devil V8.

 

 

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