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Jud!

My pc doesnt power on anymore for no reason

Alright so an update. Im just really dumb and had the power switch plugged into the wrong pins on the MB. I realized this yesterday even tho i had looked through the manual so many times. So thanks for your guys help anyways.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

My so I have a Ryzen 3700x Msi  X570 Gaming edge WIFI motherboard and a Rtx 2070 super for my gpu. i also have an EVGA 850 watt psu. I ordered a new case cause my other one was quite old. It gets here and I replace the case and install everything the same and it doesnt power on. I swapped the psu out for a 650 watt corsair one that for sure works and it still didnt power on. I bought a new motherboard and it still gives me nothing. the fans dont even ramp up. I also changed the ram. Could it be the cpu? 

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3 minutes ago, Jud! said:

Could it be the cpu?

Yup. You may have damaged it with ESD during the transition to the new case.


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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1 minute ago, Panoramix97 said:

ESD ?

Sorry, Electro Static Discharge. aka static electricity.


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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3 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Sorry, Electro Static Discharge. aka static electricity.

 

I have built hundreds of computer never wore any gloves or anti static bracelets... 

 

Was I just lucky ?

 

The only thing I do is work on appropriate surface and wear non-wool clothes. Also I touch the case for couple seconds to get rid of static electricity before building the pc.

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11 minutes ago, Jud! said:

My so I have a Ryzen 3700x Msi  X570 Gaming edge WIFI motherboard and a Rtx 2070 super for my gpu. i also have an EVGA 850 watt psu. I ordered a new case cause my other one was quite old. It gets here and I replace the case and install everything the same and it doesnt power on. I swapped the psu out for a 650 watt corsair one that for sure works and it still didnt power on. I bought a new motherboard and it still gives me nothing. the fans dont even ramp up. I also changed the ram. Could it be the cpu? 

Are you sure you plugged in the front panel connectors properly? Mistakes like plugging the power button into the reset header is pretty common. 


AMD Phenom™ II X6 1100T @ 4.0GHz | MSI 890FXA-GD65 | MSI GTX 550Ti | 16GB Kingston DDR3 | Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | WD 750GB | Antec 300 | ASUS Xonar DG | Corsair A50 | OCZ 600W | Windows 10 Pro

Sony MDR-V250 | Logitech G610 Orion Brown | Logitech G402 | Samsung C27JG5 

Intel Core™ i5-8520U | WD Blue M.2 250GB | 1TB Seagate FireCuda | 8GB DDR4 | Windows 10 Home | ASUS Vivobook 15 

Intel Core™ i7-3520M | GT 630M | 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 | Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | macOS Catalina  Lenovo IdeaPad P580

AMD Phenom™ II X2 550 @ 3.10GHz | Gigabyte GA-MA785GM-US2H | XFX Radeon HD 4870 | 4GB Corsair XMS2 | WD 250GB | Thermaltake TR2 500W | Windows 10 Pro

iPhone 6s (iOS 13.6.1) | iPad Mini (iOS 9.3.5) | Samsung Galaxy S5e

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Posted · Original PosterOP

so it would be the cpu then? cause i mean i didnt take it out of the socket until i changed the motherboard today

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Posted · Original PosterOP
4 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

Are you sure you plugged in the front panel connectors properly? Mistakes like plugging the power button into the reset header is pretty common. 

Yep I verified it with the MB handbook too. I also tried just shorting it with a screwdriver.

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Well, here are the standard troubleshooting steps for this sort of thing. Make sure you check these all off.

 

Quote

The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans.

  1. Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves)
  2. Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I
  3. Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary.
  4. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual)
  5. Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button.
  6. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power.

After that, you either have a dead CPU, or your new motherboard is DOA(which does happen, and you could just be that unlucky).


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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12 minutes ago, Jud! said:

so it would be the cpu then? cause i mean i didnt take it out of the socket until i changed the motherboard today

Even if you have a bad CPU or RAM, the board should still power on and you'll just get a beep code or a POST code via the board LCD display. I suspect there's something going on with power delivery or the actual outlet you're using. It's very odd that you're not getting any sign of life with two different motherboards and two different PSUs. That just seems very implausible to me that all 4 components are dead (that being said, it's very possible a bad outlet could kill everything). Try moving the system to another outlet in the room that's hopefully on a different breaker. 


AMD Phenom™ II X6 1100T @ 4.0GHz | MSI 890FXA-GD65 | MSI GTX 550Ti | 16GB Kingston DDR3 | Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | WD 750GB | Antec 300 | ASUS Xonar DG | Corsair A50 | OCZ 600W | Windows 10 Pro

Sony MDR-V250 | Logitech G610 Orion Brown | Logitech G402 | Samsung C27JG5 

Intel Core™ i5-8520U | WD Blue M.2 250GB | 1TB Seagate FireCuda | 8GB DDR4 | Windows 10 Home | ASUS Vivobook 15 

Intel Core™ i7-3520M | GT 630M | 16 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 | Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | macOS Catalina  Lenovo IdeaPad P580

AMD Phenom™ II X2 550 @ 3.10GHz | Gigabyte GA-MA785GM-US2H | XFX Radeon HD 4870 | 4GB Corsair XMS2 | WD 250GB | Thermaltake TR2 500W | Windows 10 Pro

iPhone 6s (iOS 13.6.1) | iPad Mini (iOS 9.3.5) | Samsung Galaxy S5e

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Posted · Original PosterOP
23 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Well, here are the standard troubleshooting steps for this sort of thing. Make sure you check these all off.

 

After that, you either have a dead CPU, or your new motherboard is DOA(which does happen, and you could just be that unlucky).

I tried all that today. I think im gonna return the motherboard to newegg and buy a new cpu then if that doesnt work im lost lol.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
22 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

Even if you have a bad CPU or RAM, the board should still power on and you'll just get a beep code or a POST code via the board LCD display. I suspect there's something going on with power delivery or the actual outlet you're using. It's very odd that you're not getting any sign of life with two different motherboards and two different PSUs. That just seems very implausible to me that all 4 components are dead (that being said, it's very possible a bad outlet could kill everything). Try moving the system to another outlet in the room that's hopefully on a different breaker. 

I have my old system that ive tried everything on along with the gpu psu that is on a different breaker. i also took that system and plugged it into the same cable i have for my new system and it worked. so my old system works with my psu

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Posted · Original PosterOP · Best Answer

Alright so an update. Im just really dumb and had the power switch plugged into the wrong pins on the MB. I realized this yesterday even tho i had looked through the manual so many times. So thanks for your guys help anyways.

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