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My pc doesnt power on anymore for no reason

Go to solution Solved by Jud!,

Alright so an update. Im just really dumb and had the power switch plugged into the wrong pins on the MB. I realized this yesterday even tho i had looked through the manual so many times. So thanks for your guys help anyways.

My so I have a Ryzen 3700x Msi  X570 Gaming edge WIFI motherboard and a Rtx 2070 super for my gpu. i also have an EVGA 850 watt psu. I ordered a new case cause my other one was quite old. It gets here and I replace the case and install everything the same and it doesnt power on. I swapped the psu out for a 650 watt corsair one that for sure works and it still didnt power on. I bought a new motherboard and it still gives me nothing. the fans dont even ramp up. I also changed the ram. Could it be the cpu? 

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3 minutes ago, Jud! said:

Could it be the cpu?

Yup. You may have damaged it with ESD during the transition to the new case.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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Just now, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Yup. You may have damaged it with ESD during the transition to the new case.

ESD ?

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1 minute ago, Panoramix97 said:

ESD ?

Sorry, Electro Static Discharge. aka static electricity.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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3 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Sorry, Electro Static Discharge. aka static electricity.

 

I have built hundreds of computer never wore any gloves or anti static bracelets... 

 

Was I just lucky ?

 

The only thing I do is work on appropriate surface and wear non-wool clothes. Also I touch the case for couple seconds to get rid of static electricity before building the pc.

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11 minutes ago, Jud! said:

My so I have a Ryzen 3700x Msi  X570 Gaming edge WIFI motherboard and a Rtx 2070 super for my gpu. i also have an EVGA 850 watt psu. I ordered a new case cause my other one was quite old. It gets here and I replace the case and install everything the same and it doesnt power on. I swapped the psu out for a 650 watt corsair one that for sure works and it still didnt power on. I bought a new motherboard and it still gives me nothing. the fans dont even ramp up. I also changed the ram. Could it be the cpu? 

Are you sure you plugged in the front panel connectors properly? Mistakes like plugging the power button into the reset header is pretty common. 

Intel® Core™ i7-12700 | GIGABYTE B660 AORUS MASTER DDR4 | Gigabyte Radeon™ RX 6650 XT Gaming OC | 32GB Corsair Vengeance® RGB Pro SL DDR4 | Samsung 990 Pro 1TB | WD Green 1.5TB | Windows 11 Pro | NZXT H510 Flow White
Sony MDR-V250 | GNT-500 | Logitech G610 Orion Brown | Logitech G402 | Samsung C27JG5 | ASUS ProArt PA238QR
iPhone 12 Mini (iOS 17.2.1) | iPhone XR (iOS 17.2.1) | iPad Mini (iOS 9.3.5) | KZ AZ09 Pro x KZ ZSN Pro X | Sennheiser HD450bt
Intel® Core™ i7-1265U | Kioxia KBG50ZNV512G | 16GB DDR4 | Windows 11 Enterprise | HP EliteBook 650 G9
Intel® Core™ i5-8520U | WD Blue M.2 250GB | 1TB Seagate FireCuda | 16GB DDR4 | Windows 11 Home | ASUS Vivobook 15 
Intel® Core™ i7-3520M | GT 630M | 16 GB Corsair Vengeance® DDR3 |
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | macOS Catalina | Lenovo IdeaPad P580

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so it would be the cpu then? cause i mean i didnt take it out of the socket until i changed the motherboard today

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4 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

Are you sure you plugged in the front panel connectors properly? Mistakes like plugging the power button into the reset header is pretty common. 

Yep I verified it with the MB handbook too. I also tried just shorting it with a screwdriver.

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Well, here are the standard troubleshooting steps for this sort of thing. Make sure you check these all off.

 

Quote

The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans.

  1. Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves)
  2. Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I
  3. Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary.
  4. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual)
  5. Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button.
  6. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power.

After that, you either have a dead CPU, or your new motherboard is DOA(which does happen, and you could just be that unlucky).

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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12 minutes ago, Jud! said:

so it would be the cpu then? cause i mean i didnt take it out of the socket until i changed the motherboard today

Even if you have a bad CPU or RAM, the board should still power on and you'll just get a beep code or a POST code via the board LCD display. I suspect there's something going on with power delivery or the actual outlet you're using. It's very odd that you're not getting any sign of life with two different motherboards and two different PSUs. That just seems very implausible to me that all 4 components are dead (that being said, it's very possible a bad outlet could kill everything). Try moving the system to another outlet in the room that's hopefully on a different breaker. 

Intel® Core™ i7-12700 | GIGABYTE B660 AORUS MASTER DDR4 | Gigabyte Radeon™ RX 6650 XT Gaming OC | 32GB Corsair Vengeance® RGB Pro SL DDR4 | Samsung 990 Pro 1TB | WD Green 1.5TB | Windows 11 Pro | NZXT H510 Flow White
Sony MDR-V250 | GNT-500 | Logitech G610 Orion Brown | Logitech G402 | Samsung C27JG5 | ASUS ProArt PA238QR
iPhone 12 Mini (iOS 17.2.1) | iPhone XR (iOS 17.2.1) | iPad Mini (iOS 9.3.5) | KZ AZ09 Pro x KZ ZSN Pro X | Sennheiser HD450bt
Intel® Core™ i7-1265U | Kioxia KBG50ZNV512G | 16GB DDR4 | Windows 11 Enterprise | HP EliteBook 650 G9
Intel® Core™ i5-8520U | WD Blue M.2 250GB | 1TB Seagate FireCuda | 16GB DDR4 | Windows 11 Home | ASUS Vivobook 15 
Intel® Core™ i7-3520M | GT 630M | 16 GB Corsair Vengeance® DDR3 |
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | macOS Catalina | Lenovo IdeaPad P580

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23 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Well, here are the standard troubleshooting steps for this sort of thing. Make sure you check these all off.

 

After that, you either have a dead CPU, or your new motherboard is DOA(which does happen, and you could just be that unlucky).

I tried all that today. I think im gonna return the motherboard to newegg and buy a new cpu then if that doesnt work im lost lol.

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22 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

Even if you have a bad CPU or RAM, the board should still power on and you'll just get a beep code or a POST code via the board LCD display. I suspect there's something going on with power delivery or the actual outlet you're using. It's very odd that you're not getting any sign of life with two different motherboards and two different PSUs. That just seems very implausible to me that all 4 components are dead (that being said, it's very possible a bad outlet could kill everything). Try moving the system to another outlet in the room that's hopefully on a different breaker. 

I have my old system that ive tried everything on along with the gpu psu that is on a different breaker. i also took that system and plugged it into the same cable i have for my new system and it worked. so my old system works with my psu

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Alright so an update. Im just really dumb and had the power switch plugged into the wrong pins on the MB. I realized this yesterday even tho i had looked through the manual so many times. So thanks for your guys help anyways.

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