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Posted · Original PosterOP

I have 2x8gb 3000mhz ram kit. I overclocked it to 3600mhz, 1.35v, stock timings and it is still stabile (tested with OCCT, MemTest64, MemTest86) . Shoud i try to OC more and encrise voltage? Will it improve my performance?

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Nice job!

 

Can you list full specs? And what timings are you using?


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Nice job!

 

Can you list full specs? And what timings are you using?

Gigabyte B450 gaming x motherboard 

Patriot Viper4 2x8gb 3000mhz 16-16-16-36

Ryzen3 3300x

Arctic freezer 34 esports (cpu cooler) 

Gtx 1650 super

650w psu

3 case fans

 

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8 minutes ago, Lukakopa7 said:

Ryzen3 3300x

Great! 3600Mhz is the optimal speed for this CPU. Your next steps would be to try lowering the primary timings starting with the first number then the second, then the third. So like this:

 

15-16-16-36 -> 14-16-16-36.

 

If 15 work but not 14 then you would try 15-15-16-36 and so on.

 

If a timing seems like it's almost stable, you can try increasing the voltage. It's safe to go up to 1.45V for the RAM for 24/7, but if 1.35V works then stick with that. i wouldn't go above 1.5V.

 

At a minimum, the 4th number should be at least the sum of the first two numbers plus 2. So for 16-16-16-XX the XX whould be at least 16+16+2=34.

 

After you have your Primary Timings set you can be done, or you can try messing with your secondary and tertiary timings. There can be some pretty big gains with tightening these timings, especially the tertiaries, but it can take a lot of trial and error to get them tight and stable.

 

 


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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Nice result. Given the CPU I'd say that was already running at the sweet spot. You can always try for more just to see how far you get but I'd be happy at 3600 if it is really stable. How much testing did you do on it? Some ram instability can be really infrequent.


Main system: Asus Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700k stock, Noctua D14, G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 2x8GB, Gigabyte GTX 1650, Corsair HX750i, In Win 303 NVIDIA, Samsung SM951 512GB, WD Blue 1TB, HP LP2475W 1200p wide gamut

Desktop Gaming system: Asrock Z370 Pro4, i7-8086k stock, Noctua D15, Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200 4x16GB, Asus Strix 1080Ti, NZXT E850 PSU, Cooler Master MasterBox 5, Optane 900p 280GB, Crucial MX200 1TB, Sandisk 960GB, Acer Predator XB241YU 1440p 144Hz G-sync

TV Gaming system: Asus X299 TUF mark 2, 7920X @ 8c8t, Noctua D15, Corsair Vengeance LPX RGB 3000 8x8GB, Gigabyte RTX 2070, Corsair HX1000i, GameMax Abyss, Samsung 970 Evo 500GB, LG OLED55B9PLA

VR system: Asus Z170I Pro Gaming, i7-6700T stock, Scythe Kozuti, Kingston Hyper-X 2666 2x8GB, Zotac 1070 FE, Corsair CX450M, Silverstone SG13, Samsung PM951 256GB, Crucial BX500 1TB, HTC Vive

Gaming laptop: Asus FX503VD, i5-7300HQ, 2x8GB DDR4, GTX 1050, Sandisk 256GB + 480GB SSD

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Posted · Original PosterOP
3 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Great! 3600Mhz is the optimal speed for this CPU. Your next steps would be to try lowering the primary timings starting with the first number then the second, then the third. So like this:

 

15-16-16-36 -> 14-16-16-36.

 

If 15 work but not 14 then you would try 15-15-16-36 and so on.

 

If a timing seems like it's almost stable, you can try increasing the voltage. It's safe to go up to 1.45V for the RAM for 24/7, but if 1.35V works then stick with that. i wouldn't go above 1.5V.

 

At a minimum, the 4th number should be at least the sum of the first two numbers plus 2. So for 16-16-16-XX the XX whould be at least 16+16+2=34.

 

After you have your Primary Timings set you can be done, or you can try messing with your secondary and tertiary timings. There can be some pretty big gains with tightening these timings, especially the tertiaries, but it can take a lot of trial and error to get them tight and stable.

 

 

Ok thank you for help :)

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Great! 3600Mhz is the optimal speed for this CPU. Your next steps would be to try lowering the primary timings starting with the first number then the second, then the third. So like this:

 

15-16-16-36 -> 14-16-16-36.

 

If 15 work but not 14 then you would try 15-15-16-36 and so on.

 

If a timing seems like it's almost stable, you can try increasing the voltage. It's safe to go up to 1.45V for the RAM for 24/7, but if 1.35V works then stick with that. i wouldn't go above 1.5V.

 

At a minimum, the 4th number should be at least the sum of the first two numbers plus 2. So for 16-16-16-XX the XX whould be at least 16+16+2=34.

 

After you have your Primary Timings set you can be done, or you can try messing with your secondary and tertiary timings. There can be some pretty big gains with tightening these timings, especially the tertiaries, but it can take a lot of trial and error to get them tight and stable.

 

 

I turn firs timing to 15 and my pc dont turn on. What shoud i do? 

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3 minutes ago, Lukakopa7 said:

I turn firs timing to 15 and my pc dont turn on. What shoud i do? 

Depends on the features of the motherboard. Sometimes the board will boot into a "safe mode" after a failed POST and you can try to correct any errors in your settings.

 

For lower end boards you might have to clear CMOS and re enter all of you settings, or load up a profile that you have saved.

 

Hold the power button to shut down the system and try to boot again.


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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Posted · Original PosterOP
3 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

Depends on the features of the motherboard. Sometimes the board will boot into a "safe mode" after a failed post and you can try to correct any errors in your settings.

 

For lower end boards you might have to clear CMOS and re enter all of you settings.

 

Hold the power button to shut down the system and try to boot again.

My pc is working. Shoud i try again? 

 

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Keep note that your GPU temps, affect RAM temps under load.

So adding RAM volts isn't always a good idea (towards the end results when you want to add voltage and keep going)
While stable in stresstesting without a GPU in play, it can be unstable in games due to GPU heat being circulated close to RAM modules.


Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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10 minutes ago, Lukakopa7 said:

My pc is working. Shoud i try again?

You can try increasing voltage if you are comfortable with that. But if the PC failed to POST at CL15 then more voltage isn't likely to help. Since you can't lower the first number (CL), you likely can't lower the 2nd(TRCD) or third(TRP) either, but you can go ahead and try anyway. If nothing else, lowering the fourth number (TRAS) to 34 might improve performance slightly, but it could also hurt performance, so you should run a benchmark like Aida64, Geek Bench or Passmark Performance Test to see if what you are changing is helping or hurting.

 

After that you could start tuning your secondary timings. You should at least give Trefi and Trfc a look since these have the biggest impact on performance of the secondary timings.


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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Posted · Original PosterOP
18 hours ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

You can try increasing voltage if you are comfortable with that. But if the PC failed to POST at CL15 then more voltage isn't likely to help. Since you can't lower the first number (CL), you likely can't lower the 2nd(TRCD) or third(TRP) either, but you can go ahead and try anyway. If nothing else, lowering the fourth number (TRAS) to 34 might improve performance slightly, but it could also hurt performance, so you should run a benchmark like Aida64, Geek Bench or Passmark Performance Test to see if what you are changing is helping or hurting.

 

After that you could start tuning your secondary timings. You should at least give Trefi and Trfc a look since these have the biggest impact on performance of the secondary timings.

With 1.47v i can do 15-15-16-34 but RAM runs much hotter. If i lower voltage for just a little bit it becomes unstabile. Is this voltage ok for 24/7?

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3 minutes ago, Lukakopa7 said:

With 1.47v i can do 15-15-16-34 but RAM runs much hotter. If i lower voltage for just a little bit it becomes unstabile. Is this voltage ok for 24/7?

I'm inclined to say that should be fine. Just one thing, though. Sometimes the voltage you ask for and the voltage you get are not the same. For instance, my Asus Z97-A board for some reason always seemed to add 0.4V to my DRAM ask voltage. If you download and install HWinfo64 it will tell you your get voltage.

 

It seems like you might be running just on the edge of stability. If you want to be more confident that your system is truly stable you should run the HCI Design MemTest. Run enough instances to cover ~75% of your RAM and run them until you get 300-400% coverage. So in your case you could run 6 instances of 2GB each.


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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